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Nice video but would have loved to see it start up and hear it.

Welcome back

Glad to see you back. Take care of your health.

I'm glad to see you are doing good!!!

Glad to see that you are back, looking forward to new videos

Looking forward to seeing your vids. I'm a newbie to the channel

That blue looks so good in person

Thinking about doing this after a pebble cut my belt in Mexico

Hello and thanks for taking the time to publish this video. I'm just starting to get interest into going with a stage 2 torque cam and I have no idea what the cam # mean. Is the 475 a torque ir power cam and what made you decided on a 475 over another number cam. My '23 Ultra needs some passing power and I'm not too aggressive ilkn my bike unless I really need to get off the line in a hurry.

I needed to know how to do this from start to finish.oh well I'll find another

What year is that? Is it 5 speed or 6 speed?

Thanks so much, I’m just about to do a 475 when I get home. 2020 electraglide standard 107

When you installed the cam plate, you mentioned turning it over four times before continuing the tightening sequence - turn it over how ?

Why shouldnt you use an impact on the stator

Nice video

I just knock the swing-arm bolt in a little, leave my rear wheel on, loosen the top shock bolt and put the belt on. It will fit between swing-arm and frame. no need to remove wheel. You will have to loosen the wheel axle so you can move the wheel forward to get belt on.

Part 2 coming?? 2012Glide with 100k. Replacing belt, both pulleys, wheel bearings, fork bearings… all seals.

*Promo SM* 🤣

any thoughts on quality after running them for a bit?

When im rotating tire the lifter on the back side stays up until i push it down with my finger is that normal or do i need to adjust it

Lmao I actually gasped out loud when I saw that rear fender set up.

Bedtime stories

Quick question...I literally just finished a 22XD cam this evening. Why not just open the cam cover and use the timing marks for TDC on each cylinder before cutting the pushrods? I already had the rocker boxes after doing my head gaskets if that makes any difference.

Nice job! I thought lifter cuffs torque is 140 inch lbs? You said 60 inch lbs. most other videos I’ve watched are 140. Just curious because I’m fixing to do my breakout and don’t want to fuck it up !! lol.

You are doing great!! Keep up the good work!

'PromoSM' 😌

I run a 86 FXSTC with a RedStar conversion kit 6 speed transmission and a S&S v111 and have over the years had 3 belts broken... so changing to this type of final drive seems more logical even if is more maintenance and for most of us our first bikes before this were always chain and poof ... one masterlink and back on the road ... not stuck in the sticks hoping to get a tow or even signal on your cell is my plan.

Excellent presentation

Pirate vision "There be the first one" ARRGHHH

Also why .005 on tappets? Its suppose to be .002 feeler gauge when tightening them aint it???

When you set the 1st pushrod do you go ahead and do the other one beside it? I guess rhe fromt get done after the rear leaks down?

I have no idea on how to replace a light bulb(got leds😜) so my question is this: how long did it take you to do the can swap/install with give n take?? And what is the absolute necessary parts you need to do it, provided you have full exhaust decatted system and a high air flow cleaner? Thanks in advance and I’m asking these questions cause I simply refuse to pay a Stealership period!!

Great. I wonder how many miles does a belt go? That is an intense job, especially removing the swing-arm. I can understand why people switch to a chain drive.

Great Video However i don't see the crank and cam at TDC which would be optimal

Just getting ready to attack this install on my 23’ RG. Curious as to why you removed the cam plate and oil pump separately if you were reusing both? My bike has 34:06 about 600 miles on it, any reason not to remove and reinstall in one piece? Thank you for the torque specs btw

sorry... 600 dollars

i just replaced the gaskets. the pump is too much expensive in Brazil. 60 dollars

Givin me something to watch on lunch.

Nice just found your channel new subscriber here. Am building a 22 road king special myself so interested to see how your build goes. Videos are good keep at it👌

Morning. Say nice bike btw. I am curious how many hours you put into the stage 2? I ask because I own the 2019 HD FXDRS 114 M8. I will be doing a stage 2 and don’t want to get grossly overcharged for labor. My intentions are to replace cam, adjustable push rods, tapper cuffs and oil pump. I do have a tuner. Assuming 4-6 hours labor? What amount in labor would be excessive? Any knowledge or advice is appreciated. Thanks guys. Ride safe. 👊🏻

Great video! Ill be tackiling this soon on my street glide. Keeping the factory pump and plate as well. I do have a question. Did you reuse the shim that is between the plate and cam sprocket?

Clean install.

that bike is still slow lol, but it sounds good.

Why do you use smaller washers when putting sprockets back on the first time? I am getting ready to do this exact thing and was just curious.

The factory design is usually the best design! Belts run quite, less wear, and longer life than chains. Lots to think about too.. gear ratio, shimming, wheel alignment, and servicing. I personally think this is a waste of time and money! Especially if you are a weekend warrior…

I've been running chain drive for years , I run Rk pro chains on my decker , and yes I am a long distance rider , coast to coast . Belts are garbage , left me stranded to many times .

Is this something a newbie can follow along with on a 2021 m8 softail. Or is there other steps that may cause issues and require a professional install? I'd really like to get into it. But i don't come from a family nor friend group that does this. So forums and youtube has been my dad lol.

Hi thanks for the excelent video. Where didyou get the pump I cant find one,

Why would you want a chain.

I personally wouldnt recommend messing with the S&S tappet cuffs for bolt in cams. Swapping them comes with serious risk that you could snap a cuff bolt and get landed with a very expensive extraction. I found out the hard way last year when I did an oilpump update and installled an SE Torque cam. The tappet cuffs like those are used in high end LS Engines and do just fine, and I've yet to actually see any real confirmed reports of a stock tappet cuff failing in anything with a stage 2 or even stage 3 cam. You can get some Magnetic Lifter Holders and skip the entire tappet blocks step and save a bunch of time, and avoid a bunch of risk by leaving the tappet cuffs alone. Once you pull the cam out the lifters will fall out of the bottom of the lifter bores. So you can swap in new tappets, keep them im place with the lifter holder, then put the cam in. Waaaay easier and safer than dealing with the cuff swap. They dont really need to be swapped to billet ones until like, you do high lift cams that require serious springs and headwork. If I had known they were a 0% failure rate part I wouldn't have bothered with the S&S tappet cuffs at all. I got me a 22XE cam sitting in the box to replace my SE Torque Cam, along with an SE 55mm manifold FM 5.5g injectors, arlen ness Ventilator upgrade filter, and Woods platinum lifters. Next riding season is gonna be awesome.