วีดีโอ

That would be convenient- except you need the bolt heads to be inside the unit. A cardboard template won’t change that. Not a bad idea though. 🙂

@@DrJeffM they have held up quite well. No major issues. The wiring wasn’t a problem for me, and I’m an idiot. I say go for it if you don’t mind tinkering a bit Happy pontooning!

Perhaps that would be possible, but I don’t know how it would work. You would still need something inside the base for the bolts to screw into. I suppose you could try drilling some holes and try to thread them, but you would have to make sure you didn’t drill into something vital. In the end, I think it would be more work than just taking it apart. Let me know if you come up with a different solution.

@@nated2951 thanks, I appreciate your demonstration of how to disassemble it. Mine will arrive soon!

I’m glad it helped. I couldn’t find a decent video when I had trouble with this, so I figured maybe other people would be having the same trouble , so I made this video. Good luck!

I started with a 10 watt diode which cut at about 1.5mm/sec. It was taking me 20 hours of laser time to make my projects. Then heaven forbid you hit a glue spot or have some other trouble with the wood after 3 hours if cutting, and you don’t realize it until you have moved the wood - and you have to start over 😡. I love the 130 co2. I can cut clean 1/8 Baltic birch at 40mm sec - no char at all. The projects that used to take 20 hours take less than one hour now, and if something gets messed up, restarting doesn’t waste an entire day 😊

@@nated2951 Ive had the 60 watt monport in the shop for almost a month and Have yet to set it up lol. Been using an Algolaser Delta, which has been ok, but its full of issues now so Im no too happy about it. I like diodes so I may get a Roly if Algo doesnt support me with some replacement parts.

The new version is literally about 250 times more powerful. SnazzyMaps has its place, but for this type of work, there really is no comparison IMHO

This is a good question. The difference between SVG and Traced SVG is that with a Traced SVG, the lines will not cross each other. For example, with a regular SVG, if you have a map where water goes under a bridge, the “water” lines will pass right through the “bridge” lines. With a traced SVG in the same scenario, the water line would go up to the bridge line, but not actually cross it. The line would resume on the other side of the bridge. Traced SVGs can be advantageous in other scenarios as well, but that was a quick example. If you need a better explanation, I will do my best to help!

@@nated2951 thank you that was very helpful!

Jack, I’ll see if I still have the photos on my phone.

That sounds great! You should post a video!

It would be nice

I don’t think I understand your question. Which knot are you referencing?

@@nated2951 The knot for the yellow rope . It’s outside of the reel. But could be changed to inside the reel.

No problems so far! It probably depends on how much you expose it to the sun and elements.

Mister b, it has been a couple of years, but I don’t think the mounting bolts were inside the casing when it arrived. You have to open it up to install the bolts. The bolts won’t fit with the motor in the way. If you try to install the bolts from underneath, they will push into the motor and won’t be able to be tightened. I honestly like the cardboard idea, but in this case, I can’t see how it would have worked.

I have little doubt I did it the hard way. Damn circlip spring thingies!

Denny, You could easily raise the motor to get out of the way of your feet. Having it raised that high may get in the way of your casting and reeling in your fish. I don’t know how well you could maneuver a boat if this size with your feet. It may work if there is little to no wind or current, but this boat does tend to get pushed around a bit with even easy wind. I hope it works for you!

Nate- Hey thanks or getting back to me. I don't think the motor is going to be any problem for me using fins. I can just tilt the motor out a little so that my fins would never touch it. On the other pontoon boats I've had with the motor up front that is all I had to do. For me when I'm doing a SLOW troll while quickly stripping a fly back into the boat, I've found the fins were really helpful because of the jerky motion that I could give the boat at the same time. I am wondering tho how important it is to have the shaves of the feet rest to be tilted upwards a little instead of being just straight for your front motor mount design to work properly? I just bought a Outcast Fish Cat 9-IR yesterday and the bars of the foot rests are straight instead of being turned up slightly out near the ends. I'm sure I can bend them upwards, but I'm not sure that is necessary. What is your opinion? Thank you. Denny

I have never tried. I prefer to keep my feet away from the prop.

I would say they would need to be pretty strong people. It weighs 300 pounds. We have been able to move it from the shore down into the water with 2 people. Moving it up a hill would be a significant challenge. If you have access to a winch on an ATV or on a vehicle, it would be much, much easier. If you are able to make it work with two people, take a video because it would be impressive! I

You got this man. Let me know if I can assist!

@@nated2951 I used your shopping list. It worked great. Next week is the first voyage. I told my wife the captain is going down with the ship.

@@donnikrans2625 wear a life jacket. Come back with awesome stories!

Diana, Keep in mind that the down function only works if there is weight or tension on it. If there is no anchor (or other tension) pulling on the line, the drop function won’t do anything. I believe that’s part of the “auto stop at the bottom” technology. Also, I recently did some work on mine and I noticed some of the wires were a little loose when I put it back together, which led to a similar problem. I would try refastening all of the wires. Try testing it before you completely reassemble and putting the hood on. I hope this helps!

Larry Lazure, the answer is “Sort of”. The down button when pressed all the way in will drop the anchor until it no longer senses a certain amount of weight on the line. Then it stops the spool again until it feels that weight again. This stops the spool from just over spinning like a bait caster. It’s not exactly a “free fall”, but you only have to hit the button , and not hold it, to get the anchor to the bottom. I probably did a poor job of explaining it. Let me know I f you need clarification.

Alltaira, I expect you should be able to make that work. Once you take it apart, it can fit into fairly compact locations. Have fun out there!

I can’t say I have had any issues with Badonka-Donk sleepitude. My seat has been plenty comfy during my excursions, which typically last about 2-4 hours.

Dan, it’s completely filled with foam. Since it’s not hollow, there is no way for it to take on water. 👍

@Screww Googlle - Congrats on your new boat! I’m sure you will have a great time out there on the water. This video is 8 years old already? Damn I feel old now. I did do a “Version 2” of the front motor mount, which you may want to look into. Other people have also done some great mods of this design. Either way, I hope you have fun!

DealerLicense - that’s a good question. The reason for the trolling motor being in front is to distribute the weight balance. With a large battery and trolling motor in back, all of the weight is in back, which causes the back side to sit significantly lower in the water than the front To the point where the basket can become partially submerged. It feels unstable. Also, with the trolling motor in back, having the handle behind you makes it much more difficult to steer vs having the hand in front of you. I learned both of these lessons the hard way, which is why o came up with this solution. Also, casting to either side of the trolling motor has never been an issue for me 👍

Heather, it’s somewhat buoyant once you lift it. I usually lay down on the raft and pull on the chain to lift the anchor. When we pull it out of the water, we hook up the winch on the ATV and pull it to shore that way. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you for your quick reply. We recently bought a lake house that has a raft but we can’t figure out how to move the anchor in the water. The raft is still on land from winter. What is best way to place the raft out in deeper water? Previous owner left the anchor in the shallow water for the winter. We are new to all this fun stuff. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

@@heatherbuchanan2915 That’s a completely valid question. I have my anchor connected to the raft with chains and underwater bungie cords. I put the anchor on top of the raft and then stand in the raft and use a paddle from a canoe or kayak to paddle the raft out to the location where I want the raft to sit. The I push the anchor over the side. Just make sure you have the chains connected to your raft first so you don’t lose the anchor. Once the raft is in place, I adjust the chains by reaching over the side. I hope this helps, and congrats on your new place!!

@@nated2951 You have been very helpful! Thank you so much. I greatly appreciate it.

Tor, that’s good to know. Could you please provide a couple of links to the videos? I made this video because I couldn’t find any that were good at explaining the installation process. If this video is outdated, it may be time for me to take it down. Thanks!

@@nated2951 th-cam.com/video/7_Wr59ZRJZ0/w-d-xo.html