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@@rustybrown1044 Thank you! I never thought that would be how it left.

@adambennett2176 yes, I was sitting in stopped traffic, a car wiggled thru some cars to turn left back towards me, had plenty of time until they didn't! Pulled out right in front of him, he hit them, then me.

Mine snapped going over a series of bumps, going 35-40 started bouncing and "Snap". It looked to be partially cracked for awhile, but it wasn't where I could see it, because it was underneath the top spring. I would reccomend jacking up both sides even if you're doing only one side, (that would have made mine a little easier going back together).

Not all are bad, but there's a big majority that just don't care. This truck spent time in the oilfield in a previous life, and it's been a lil meth'd up, all over. Especially wiring.

It's a '97

@@calvinstreets2260 Amen, don't buy a truck that tweakers have touched!

Supermiller has some, Google "peterbilt 379 family wiring schematic". There are free ones, but I haven't found the link that I used.

supermiller.com/pdf/SK25756.pdf

@@MatthewReedTrucking thanks you sir

I'm pretty sure it was around $4-500, a Cat brand compressor is closer to $800 if I'm not mistaken.

Yes bushing blue 💙 is plastic garage need rubber

Thanks, I'll let Samsung know!

The oil leak is how I got to that point, it was the front crank seal leaking. So everything was out of the way for doing the motor mounts.

It helped with that shake yes. You could feel it thru the steering wheel with your finger tips. I replaced both wheels and got an alignment and it wears evenly now. I have another truck that the alignment was off, and one steer tires cupped, but also cupped worse halfway around the tire, I got it a new tire and alignment, and with very slight pressure on the steering wheel I could feel it shake thru steering wheel (even with the new tire). So I replaced that wheel as well and that shake went away. Once I had the tire off, I rolled that wheel across a concrete floor and it clanked and banged around when it hit the bent spots.

In my case it was solved.

In my case it was solved.

I'm glad it was helpful to you, that's why I made it, I couldn't find one myself. I may put my bolts in from the bottom next time I do them.

@@MatthewReedTrucking I forgot to add my 20 ton jack has the spring and plate on it so I used a 2x4 turned sideways “3 1/2” was up and down to lift and clear everything

2 on the front, and 2 on each side, near the back of the engine. So 6 total on mine.

@@MatthewReedTrucking i got c15 acert gotta replace them, engine jumps quite a lot to the right, i seen two on front and two on the side , idk about the back, going to do some research on them.

He doesn't show the removal and the install, i thought maybe when he impact it back in it pulls or sucks in where its through a flush. We didnt see any of that but yeah, something he did isnt right

Sounds good, report back to the class on what you find out.

I'll have to look and see if I made any videos. They're pretty simple, if all goes well. The passenger side was easy! But my drivers side, I had to remove the bracket off of the block, because the metal part of the bushing, rusted to the bolt. Being there with the computer and fuel lines, I didn't see a good way to cut the bolt off. Just get all you're bolts started thru the frame, before you let the motor down, and you should be good!