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ISO in camera only changes the brightness of the screen you are monitoring with. If you set the camera to ISO 200 the image will get darker and consequentially you will try to open the lens more or increase the shutter speed in order to brighten the image on the monitor, in doing so, you will let more light into the sensor and the highlights might clip easier because ISO 200 is so dark that you need to open the lens so much in order to brighten up. Now, If you set the camera at ISO 1600 while shooting the image on the monitor becomes very bright and you will try to darken the image by closing the lens aperture or by Using ND to darken the image. By doing so you will let less light into the sensor effectively protecting the highlights at the expense of Noise (Because you are letting very low light into the sensor). That is why CVP mentions that the ISO has some impact (Because it forces you to let more or less light hit the sensor).

If you change ISO from 2000 to 320 (Or any other ISO change) but you don't change the lens aperture or use ND filtering then the ISO change is not doing absolutely anything to the captured image (Since ISO just brightens or darkens the image you are watching on your monitor). For example lets say you set your camera to ISO 2000 in bright sunny day and you open up the lens to a point where the traffic lights are balanced (Not clipping in the shadows or highlights)and you notice that the image is too bright, then all you need to do is lower the ISO to lets say 320 and image looks like it should (Looks well exposed). In essence what you were doing in the first place was this, you exposed for ISO 320 but had you camera set at ISO 2000.

@@AdrianAvila-w8i Hi Adrian, Thank you very much for the great explanation. This also makes total sense to me, hence I was wondered when I heard in one TH-cam video a guy telling that the ISO setting within the camera can have an effect. In short he told: For example setting ISO 500 in camera (with all the shutter speed and aperture settings remaining) will give you a better shadow quality than setting the ISO to 1600 in camera and dropping it back to 500 in post. But I cannot imagine that, since RAW data is recorded only and as you told, ISO will only brighten or lower the image on the monitor. I learned that the ISO setting in post, will set the middle gray lower in the tonal dynamic range when going higher with the ISO setting and vice versa.

@@AdrianAvila-w8i I asked him as well back then and this was his reply: "Even though the ISO is not baked into the R3D file (and can be adjusted in post) the noise and grain is baked into the R3D, and this will be determined by the ISO you set, so even though you can change the ISO you still need to think about which ISO is best for the environment your shooting in, and which ISO will give you a good balance of Latitude to digital noise in that specific shooting environment. If I shoot at ISO 800 the noise will be lower than ISO 1600, and even if I alter the ISO in post from 800 to 1600 the R3D’s grain will still remain and appear like it was shot at ISO 800. Does that make sense? Your essentially burning in the noise and grain based on the ISO you shoot at, but the ISO can still be adjusted to higher or lower values in post which is specifically affecting where your stops of dynamic range are placed. I generally stay at around ISO 800 as a base, and move between 400-1600, I rarely go to 250 or 3200." Not sure if I can paste a link here but the video is called: "RED Komodo 6K: Technical Guide Part 1" from Ian Thurstan and he is telling it at 26:15 mins

@@B1TN3RD "You're essentially burning in the noise and grain based on the ISO you shoot at" This is true ONLY if you are changing the aperture of the lens to accommodate the ISO change. If you are shooting at ISO 400 with your lens set at F1.8 or T1.8 and you keep the lens aperture the same but change the ISO to 3200 in camera the only thing that will happen is that the image on your monitor will get brighter and it will get recorded in the metadata and when you open the clip in your Davinci resolve or other program it will show with ISO 3200 but in reality it will not be noisy. However if you set ISO to 3200 In camera and close the lens to F5.6 to compensate for the bright image on your monitor then yes, you will bake the noise in the file because you closed the lens, allowing less light to hit the sensor hence you will get a noisier image (The less light hitting the sensor the more noise).

I agree, just something to consider. Feels disjointed with the info-laden objective, and imo diminishes credibility because you’re trying to look like something you don’t need to be.

Exposure deals with the sensor’s dynamic range parameters without ISO and lut implications, basically the levels of the raw capture. While video shows you the final levels sent to the monitor, that are effected by ISO and look settings. In exposure mode red tone is overexposed and purple tone underexposed. Great for setting up initial exposure, and keeping check while recording. Video has many tones depicting varies IRE ranges, and is useful for dialling in skin tone and checking the final look. The next videos are on this topic.

I would say you light for iso1600… having an iso in mind will dictate a lot of other choices, and help you achieve better physical light balance… i.e., when you compensate for the extra stop of light. 800 is a good starting point if you don’t know if the scene is low or high key, or if it’s a mid key scene.

I think the fact you are comparing it to a 100,000 dollar leading Hollywood production camera like the Venice says it all... also, just because Sony or other cameras have something similar doesn't demish it on the Red. I think there is not enough discussion on the implications of ISO across all brands.

Hi! thanks... Yes, it can.... and will try!

thanks!... its the online content at www.red.com/red-101

agreed... great cameras!

Thanks!

Thanks!.. no, I haven’t yet.

Thank you!… I’m not sure… interesting question. I would say tho, that Red meters would be best to use at all time when possible, and you always have to be careful relying on live preview as monitor brightness can effect it, histogram is a good tool to quickly double check it.

Super simply… protect the highlights, and use iso to either further enhance the highlights, or reduce noise.

Sony cameras (A7siii, FX3, FX6.....) behave the exact same way. This isn't something unique to RED. And this isn't some feature, this is just us misunderstanding how camera sensors react. High ISOs let us see more into shadows but its the highlights that are cleanest there. Likewise, its the shadows that are cleanest at low ISOs. I routinely run FX3 at 12,800 even when there is more than enough light and use a good ND. That gives a very pleasing highlight rolloff/gradation.

That’s interesting that it works the same on Sony, it must be across the board how ISO functions on digital sensors. I agree it’s not a feature, rather it’s the functionality of the sensor. But it all works to make up its characteristic. I haven’t seen a lot of videos discussing this on the Sony in detail, definitely a good topic.

I watched the qhole thing and thought the same thing. Also rly hate how long it took to get to the point.

False! ISO ONLY AFFECTS MONITORING LEVELS. Just look at the goal posts, and directly manipulate the EXPOSURE. Add/Remove ND, open/close aperture, Add/Remove lights.

Even with Red Raw you are only capturing the physical light hitting the sensor. You are therefore restricted to ISO adjustment in relation to the physical light level captured. If you push or pull the ISO too far in post it will degrade your image. So to be able to take full advantage of ISO and maintain optimal image quality you need to adjust it during capture and appropriately compensate the physical light level for the chosen ISO… ISO post adjustment is really, in my opinion, a marketing gimmick rather than an ultra useful feature. If you expose correctly you shouldn’t need to adjust ISO in post. That’s why you can’t for ProRes.

@@nationalvideography2034 Yes indeed, I'm fully aware of the distinction with Pro Res- and you are correct - the Gio Scope feature is a clever way to check exposure at sensor level

Absolutely the opposite. Exposing to the right keeps the shadows clean the pitfall of exposing to the right is blowing out highlights possibly.

Ettr means give the sensor as much light as possible.

@@John-e4p1x right, but it still means that you expose right before you clip, which is protecting the highlights. I don't even know why I posted this Q.

kind of. You mean to a point. @@John-e4p1x

ETTR applies to sensor light, not ISO. When raising ISO you are ETTL for highlight detail, it's the opposite.

It’s exactly counter intuitive, and back to front, that’s how Red’s ISO works… you get additional steps for the highlights within the tonal range. The dynamic range stays the same, but the steps within it, get reallocated to favour the highlights, Mid-tones stay the same. But the highlight increase in performance. They get smoother, more controlled.

thanks!... the push and pull of ISO in post is very limited, your image may begin to degrade even after a half a stop adjustment. So, you need to physically compensate the light lost or gained by the ISO, which you can only do during capture. Otherwise, it works the same, the raw data doesn't change, I guess you could say its all in the codecs... but this doesn't mean its not important.

Yes, that is correct. Once you capture the highlight protection while shooting all you are doing in post when you change the ISO is the brightness or darkness. Whatever you captured will still be there. We can say the same principle applies when shooting. ISO in camera only changes the brightness of the screen you are monitoring with. If you set the camera to ISO 200 the image will get darker and consequentially you will try to open the lens more or increase the shutter speed in order to brighten the image on the monitor, in doing so, you will let more light into the sensor and the highlights might clip easier because ISO 200 is so dark that you need to open the lens so much in order to brighten up. Now, If you set the camera at ISO 1600 while shooting the image on the monitor becomes very bright and you will try to darken the image by closing the lens aperture or by Using ND to darken the image. By doing so you will let less light into the sensor effectively protecting the highlights at the expense of Noise (Because you are letting very low light into the sensor). That is why CVP mentions that the ISO has some impact (Because it forces you to let more or less light hit the sensor).