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Nice info, thank you :)

Creative video, keep it up, thank you :)

Great video this week. Can we get a look at Jake's shelf of interesting stuff?

Thank you for keeping me for screwing this up (pun intended)

A suggestion I always give New users is that if you do get successful prints in the beginning save one of them a Benji or something one of the first things you can do to diagnose a problem with printing is to return to known good meaning you print a G-Code file not a 3D file an actual G-Code file that you have successfully printed before what this does is it removes the slicer as a variable since you know this file worked before you know the slice work before if this file works then it's probably a slicer issue if this file doesn't work then it's probably a printer issue or a filament issue. It's just one more way to help narrow down and diagnose the problem As for warping specifically sometimes it doesn't matter what you do You're not doing anything wrong it's just not going to work without some sort of trick I am printing these giant blocks that I designed I'm going to try the 3D print an entire shed each block is 300x300 by 150 mm and consumes just under 1 kg of plastic using a 1 mm nozzle with a 0.8 mm layer height so big fat extrusions Normally warping is simply not an issue when you lay down that much plastic it just freaking sticks but this print just refused to cooperate nothing I did worked I even redesigned and re-engineered the entire part with every non-warp trick I could come up with even to the point of adding deep curves nothing worked except one thing printing the 300 mm part on a 400 mm bed most likely because there's no bottom layer and because the extrusion is so big and the part so long the available energy to warp is it simply huge combine that with the Delta between the center and edge of the bed for temperature and there is just nothing I can do to stop it from warping when I print on a 400 mm bed I have an extra 50 mm between the part and the edge so the temperature delta is smoother and the part would stay put but the 300 mm part on the 300 mm bed it just refused to not warp The only solution I could find that worked was the freaky black magic from the witch's over at vision Minor. Their nano polymer stuff just worked in my particular case My workforce was so incredibly strong I even went with my tactical nuclear option of last resort I pulled out one of my precious old fake build tack stickers The ones that feel like cloth everything sticks to those and I mean everything And it worked The part did not separate from the sticker instead the part ripped the goddamn freaking sticker right off the aluminum plate literally rip the sticker right off :-) So sometimes it's just not your fault and there's not a whole lot you can do about it you just have to compensate for the forces involved.

Totally agree on the trouble shooting point. It's the most useful skill I've ever learned. 👍

Thanks Man! That was valuable!

i like post processing my prints 😒

Thank you!

Great tips - especially the concentric pattern to limit warping. In Fusion360, how did you make the concentric pattern? Was it a manual process or were you able to find a quicker way? Thanks again!

thanks

I hadn't ever thought about breaking up bridges into smaller sections like that but it makes so much sense. This is a fantastic tip. Thanks Jake!

As an engineer doing complex injection molding design for a decade and a half I would say the number of features in the model timeline is far less important than if your timeline represents design intent and how fast you can make the inevitable change requests to the model. For less complex designs it’s also better so that you can make configurations of the same model for use at different sizes. Less features is maybe great for a competition recreating an existing design but falls flat in the real world of designing something new.

I really like the idea of building a HAL 9000 - I was thinking of making one awhile back as a voice activated garage door opener. Me: "Open the garage doors HAL please" - HAL: "I am sorry Richard I am afraid I can't do that"

As always, excellent video Jake. Ver usefull tips and tricks, you allways bring the goldnuggets!

I'm still pretty new to printing and super glad I found this channel and resource! Thanks so much for posting all of this information for everybody! I've learned a ton of great info about design techniques watching just a few videos. Keep it up, you're doing great :)

Nice information and flow

So good :)

Using Orca Slicer, if I increase the threshold angle, it increases the support unnecessarily.

This video is bullshit...doesn't work...only live X adjust works on MK4...come on man!

You talk like a chick, flailing your hands and arms around.

Jake killing it with the videos my man! Nice job!

6:24 I like it!

It seems ridiculous that F360 still hasn't implemented threads with 3d printing tolerances.

Nice video, thanks :)

0.4mm offset is wild and depends a lot on the printer's calibration. I'm using between 0.1 and 0.2mm (the bigger the thread diameter the lower the offset) and my screws and nuts work fine. For the chamfer, I'm usually catching the overhanging part of the thread and round it to 0.5 to 1mm. Works great for catching the nut and bolt together and is easy to print.

Been doing this since I’ve started 3D design for 3D printing. It’s a great self-aligning feature 🤘

Hello there. Thanks for the video. I coincidentally was looking for this solution few days before your video, just found out those techniques was not working for me. Either the partial thread with chamfer and the timeline one. At the end I realized these don’t work with BSP. 🙄

Well at the very least none of your heart and brain cells are replaced. Your bones are broken down and replaced and the same is true for your skin and your liver, and I believe your normal muscles are too, but the interesting one is whether your blood vessels get replaced, because that would mean that they are replaced around any plaque that might be in them.

What's Autodesk really like to use? I see mixed reviews on it. And what does it actually cost? And how well does it handle PCB design?

Subscribed right away.

Create the thread, right click and choose supress feature on the thread, and then create the chamfer. Then you can unsupress the thread and everything works.

I’m sorry, this was in my feed and I watched it and could tell that at the 1:00 mark, all the information that was going to be said was already said. Yes, time can be saved by doing this, but how much - 20 sec? The video title is also misleading, since the faster refers to the modeling and not the printing and is only 20 sec improvement, and the. Idea does not address better or stronger in any way.

Where's the "stronger" part? Or did I miss something.

After using face offset, chamfer doesn't work. If I do thread+chamfer, offset faces will undo the chamfer. Any tips?

Very cool

Well, actually there is a way to do it using only one feature (the chamfer itself) and a small trick with timeline. Make a thread, then go one step back in timeline (before the thread creation) create a chamfer, move the timeline to the end and swap the thread and the chamfer in the timeline (change the order). The result will be the same, with ONE operation .

Awesome project! So cool that a user took the time to share the idea. 💯👍

TH-cam not in dark mode is a psychotic move

me here just use treadcutters from m4 upwards....

Thumbs down for not mentioning it was EXCLUSIVELY about the stupid Fusion 360. Made me waste my time. It's not "CAD", it's just Fusion 360. Other "CAD" have different ways of making threads. There's even a brilliant library for OpenSCAD that creates wonderful threads in seconds.

i use the decal bolts. as god sayd: they decal bolts work as well for cad!!

Bravo.....acme thread.......cheers

In what way are they stronger...?

Just use inline easy bolts for openscad. It will suit most requirements.

Oh wow, thanks for this, can’t wait to try it. I’ve been doing the rotated triangle thing forever. 0.4mm is a crazy large amount of easing, though. If you need more than 0.15mm, I suspect that something in your printer or slicer setup is not tuned correctly.

Even better workflow optimization would be to not design bolt or nut at all. Just use predesigned ones of type/length/thread from library or parametric model, done by self earlier or 3rd parties. "To not reinvent wheel" in each project all over again. And it's not applicable to just bolts/nuts. There are loads of standartised parts, including various fasteners, out there, including libraries or models for them. At most, it should be extended with some 3d printing custom nitbits, like smart bridging for dealing with hex hole quality/supports/postproduction, and maybe adding flank-drive rounding or corner hollowing of hex holes to increase resilency to stripping, and even such customisations can be reused from previous work/models.

I go chamfer(just deeper than the thread), thread, delete flat end of the thread. Sometimes it bugs out but usually it works great.

I'm usually in too much a hurry when I need threads for whatever reason. I've found the faster solution to be goto mcmaster and download the 3d model from there and modify it if needed.

2/3 of the way into the video i stopped... because you literally when nowhere... what a colossal waste of time