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Glad it was helpful 👊🏽

I cut it to fit snug and there is a lip at the rear end of cart that will keep it in place.

So you have 2 weights on each side and only see one pulley on each side? This is a double hung window?

You're very welcome! I appreciate the positive feedback. Good luck 👊🏽

Glad it was helpful! Go for it 👊🏽

Haha…scrubs, that’s funny. Take it easy man…relaaax. I beg to differ as I’ve done it both ways. With the amount of cleaning the traditional way takes too long. Then you have the haze to clean again. We can have two different opinions, all gd.

Glad it was helpful!, thanks 👊🏽

If you’re using the wood sealer, not necessarily. I would go right into paint and do 2-3 coats.

@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you sir. And thanks for this video. It was extremely helpful.

Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching 👊🏼

You're very welcome!

Appreciate the positive feedback 👊🏼

I have a drill press in my shop I used for the doors. Kreg jigs are awesome, but they’re so expensive! I don’t build that many cabinets, but will definitely consider it, if Instart building more furniture.

@@TrueGritDevelopment well actually a mobile kreg jig is under 50$ so it's not bad actually. Of course if you have a workshop where you build furniture you'd cut those hinges holes there with the drill press with most likely default settings. However I'm just talking about mobile situations.

As needed with a very fine grit paper. Typically I’ll do my first coat, sand then my finish coat. If you’re spraying make sure you get full coverage with the poly. Because it’s very thin, you may need to overlap just make sure you’re at the right distance to avoid over spray.

@@TrueGritDevelopment okay thanks for the info

Also how long would you wait to apply the second coat

If you’re spraying you can do it fairly quickly. I would say cpl of hours if you’re sanding b/n coats (by sanding I mean gently and lightly). If you decide sanding isn’t necessary (you are satisfied with coverage and no over sprayed), you can come right back and apply second coat in 10-15 mins. Poly dries super fast especially when sprayed.

Glad you found it helpful. I would definitely do it after for two reasons: a. Once the window is installed you will get a better visual as to what trim will look best and b. If there are gaps after installation, choosing a wider trim may have better coverage.

@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you man! Do you have any recommendations on where a homeowner can buy windows at a good price? A lot of places require install but I think I could manage this.

Typically you only want to paint the face and doors. Higher end cabinets will come painted all throughout, but that usually happens if you’re building from scratch. Lay out your panels and paint them before construction; otherwise, it’s a nightmare to get paint inside every nook and cranny of the cabinet box.

Glad I could help!

Glad to hear! Thanks for the positive feedback 👊🏼

Pan head screws 👍🏼

@@TrueGritDevelopment what size?

2-2/12 depends how tight the window is to framing. Go with 2 1/2

Nope. Do you mean like floetrol? I have used Floetrol in some projects, but not this one.

So when you rotate to 45 your cut isn’t straight or your degree of cut is not an accurate 45? If the blade is square, you should get a straight cut.

@@TrueGritDevelopment the detents. To square blade to back fence. The o my way I've found is putting the slide in the detent for 90 and locking. Then loosening the back fence (all one piece) and move fence to be square to the blade. To get perfect 90 and thus perfect 45 and 22.5 and the rest of the detents. They're cast in so can't move the scale like on my DeWalt I hope that makes sense. Perfect 90 cuts and 45 and 22 miters it's the only way if it's thrown off

Thanks for sharing. Appreciate the feedback.

Glad you found it helpful 👍🏼

Glad it was helpful! I buy all my hinges from Amazon, it’s so much cheaper than Lowe’s or Home Depot.

The inset hinges for framed cabinets attach to the back of the face frame. It's a much larger mounting plate, it also puts all the stress from the door onto the face frame instead of the body of the cabinet. Cabinet parts suppliers are usually much cheaper than Amazon for name brand glides and hinges like Blum.

Try putting in one side then the other. Do this from inside the room.

Glad it helped 👍🏼

If there is not room, shimming is not necessary. The shim is to provide something for the screw to hold on too and also help with squaring the door. If your framing is too tight then your screws will not need it. if your framing is tight and square you are good to go, if not square, you may have to make some adjustments to the framing, but that can involve removing siding and trimming back the framing. I’ve worked on many doors and windows and 9 out of 10 the framing is acceptable or maybe be slightly off, but nothing that is visible to the naked eye nor will it interfere with the functionality of the door or window. Hope this helps.

@@TrueGritDevelopment Def will help, thank you for the quick reply man! I’m installing one for a customer next weekend and hers is super tight 60x80!

You bet. It’s a replacement, so the framing should be big enough to receive a new door. You can use shims to hold it in place temporarily while you screw it in. You should have no issues. Gd luck.

@@TrueGritDevelopment Yes for sure! Thank you again! it’s j channeled all the way around as well, I’ve done mine o. My house o had to build down the door from the top it was a joke 😂, this will be my 4th door. I don’t see any screws though on the old door holding it to the frame 🤔 leads me to believe it is nailed to the siding all the way around?? Is that possible ?

Yes, the original will be a new installation with a nail flange on sides and top. This video is exactly that and that’s why I used by oscillating tool to cut out the flange b/n the J channel and door.

Thank you 🙏🏼

Glad you liked it!

I feel your pain, but you may not like my answer. The only way is to replace your exterior wood trim with brick molding vinyl trim, which is also not cheap. Another alternative is to have someone cap your wood trim with flashing and that can be less expensive than Vinyl brick molding.

@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks. Cost is not an issue at this point given how much I am paying for two massive front windows - and that we will be retiring in a few years and want maintenance free on home. I will ask my handyman about the two options you mention. Thank you.

Awesome

Glad to help

Thanks!

Great tip! Thank you

Can you elaborate?

You bet 👍🏼

Glad to hear it. Thanks for sharing your positive experience.

My bad. I explained in another comment. I put trim around the door. You can use brick moulding or any exterior moulding you like. It’s just like finishing a window or door inside your house. Use a finish nailer and nail the trim to the framing and finally silicon caulk the seams/gaps. Hope this helps.

@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks! was hoping to see it demonstrated mainly.

Negative. Sanding sealer on unfinished wood would do the trick.

I put trim around the door. You can use brick moulding or any exterior moulding you like. It’s just like finishing a window or door inside your house. Use a finish nailer and nail the trim to the framing and finally silicon caulk the seams/gaps. Hope this helps.

Glad it was helpful!

Oh no, sorry to hear. My first thought is your sprayer is putting out a lot of paint or spitting. Have you used this sprayer before and have you tested the sprayer on a scrap piece before starting your project?

@@TrueGritDevelopment First time with the critter and I had tested with scrap wood but it was rougher than the cabinet doors so couldn't see the orange peel. I know you can reduce the paint by lifting the nozzle but do you have any other recommendations for fixing the spray pattern (given its that same velspar paint)? Also I'd like to start again with the panel I painted, do you have a recommended process for doing that? (stripping? sanding? re-applying sanding sealer?) I really appreciate your help

Got it. If it’s the same paint, you shouldn’t have the orange peel finish. Make sure you use a waving motion when spraying and maintain a good distance from the object you’re painting. As for the panel you want to redo I would sand it down to a smoother finish. This does not necessarily mean all the way to “unfinished” wood, it’s just enough so when you run your hand on it it feels smooth, so no sanding sealer needed, but maybe a primer for a base coat. If you decide to sand it all the way to bare wood, then apply the sanding sealer. Hope this helps.

You could if the gap is thin enough. The advantage with joint compound or wood filler is that it hardens better than caulk.

I haven’t used those products so I can’t comment on their usability, sorry. Whatever product you use must be able to form to the space underneath the cement board. I would think regular concrete may dry quicker and leave some air gaps? Hope this helps.

Oh man, I wouldn’t think a warm satin will add any color.

Anything is possible but not ideal IMO especially if you have 2nd or 3rd flr windows. I would replace the brick moulding after installing the windows.

My bad. I basically sat on the sill (be careful and make sure you balance your weight so not to tip over) and unscrewed the storm frame. Where the screws were stripped I used a drill bit to drill through the screw. That’s pretty much it really. Hope this helps.

@@TrueGritDevelopment That helps! Thanks.

Thank you! Appreciate the vote of confidence. I do it both ways and I do agree removing the sashes makes it much lighter. I thought it was quicker to leave the sashes on, but didn’t really save that much time. I take the sashes out most of the time.

@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you for the response man you did a very detailed and thorough video and I’m sure you helped out many people with this video. I have a random question. I recently measured someone’s house and I always try to get inside and outside measurements and the windows were 3 inches different on the inside then they were the outside. Have you ever ever ran across something like this?

Mmm…if this a replacement job, I would only measure inside and go with that. On the outside you maybe catching some of the trim or whatever. I measure inside the sashes as I show in the video, so whether you’re inside or outside the measurement should match.

@@TrueGritDevelopment good idea. Thank you. I mostly do apartments and keep busy but I do houses too, though not nearly as often and this is the first I’ve come across it. Every windows different but these are the strangest I’ve come across.

Thanks for the tip!

Glad it’s helpful. Thanks for watching 👊🏼

Do it. You got this.