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These come with the inserts loose correct? I ordered three different sets of the inserts to make sure I get them spined perfectly. I will use cold melt until I dial in my setup.

Something that just came to mind, when using archers advantage I started out with the arrow I shot in the past, a black eagle rampage 350 spine cut at 25", 200 grains point weight (125 field point and 75 insert), AAE IP 5 nock, three TAC 2.75" vanes, no arrow wrap, total weight 434 grains going 288 fps at launch. The graph shows it's on the slightly stiff area which is exactly how I wanted it to be. My bow is a PSE Xpedite, 70# limbs, brace hight is 5.25" and my draw length is 27.5". Now, when being in the shaft selector section I wanted to see how a 300 spine black eagle rampage arrow would perform, only this time cut at 25.875" and the graph is showing it's too stiff. I already have three of these arrows made for me because I thought it would work. I can't make the arrow any longer and I don't want to pull more weight either. I thought this arrow was going to fall under the slightly stiff area as well. I don't know how in this video you were able to make work for you when shooting 63-65# and using a 300 spine arrow. Any ideas as to how to spine tune these arrows I have now? Thank you for taking the time to write your reply.

Can you please share what type of insert/outsert system you are using in the video. Looks like a long insert and long sleeve or footer on the outside. Thanks

286 fps @68 lbs

Great video,i havent seen anybody do a video like this on a prime nexus 4.i now is not the newest bow but there kinda diffrent.thanks

I’ve always hunted at 70# with a 480gr arrow. I’ve never really cared about weight or speed in the 20+ years of hunting until this offseason. I switched over to victory RIP TKO’s to experiment with FOC and dialed my bow down to 62lbs for offseason shooting/high reps. I finally stopped at a local archery shop and tested out speed through the two chrono’s that they have available. I’m shooting 29” draw at 62lbs and a 437 grain RIP TKO 340 and was getting 270fps on each chrono. I’ve always been adamant that I have to hunt at 70lbs but seeing that I’m getting 270 fps at my draw weight and arrow weight, I’m pretty content with staying where I’m at. 270fps with a fixed blade is going to kill any animal here in NA.

I’m a little different then most. I shoot a 340grain arrows that’s 300 spine victory rip XV. I have 3 bows bowtech rpm 360 70# shoots it at 339fps, a bowtech 70# sr350 at 338, and a Hoyt alpha x30 at 80lbs and 348fps. Now before I get the 5grains per pound the arrow is spine correctly. Now just an example a 505grain arrow at 272fps or so has 76lbs of ke at 40 yard most people’s max yardage for hunting. My light 340 grain arrow has 78lbs of ke at 40 yards with my speed with the bowtechs and the Hoyt has 81lbs of ke. Now that ke is the same I see my room for error with my setup is greater and the animal has less time to react. Ima get heat for this but I haven’t had any issues.

70# bow 31 inch draw 520 grain arrows single cam 266fps

Has anybody used Contact-Archery's Micro cap component? Contact used to be Method, and Vector before that, I believe. The Micro-Cap is a one piece collar-outsert combination. I haven't used anything else. Bought a dozen arrows last year from Method, and a new dozen this year from "Contact". Happy with their setup. I don't see any problems yet, very solid. Anyone have any? Anything wrong with this Micro-Cap?

Don't know my chrono speed. But 28" draw, 434 grains @63# 335ibo. Calculator says 270fps. don't care for match grade arrows. .003s with meticulous building gets match grade weight sorting and usually around .0015 by cutting both ends.

The most accurate arrows I ever built were .010" straightness (yes, one hundredth straightness). I cut from one end or both, using a dial gauge to find the least-straight end (which is rarely in the center). I spine tested them and lined up the "weak" end, and then I matched the weights of the inserts and points so they were as close to matched for weight as I could. Speed makes no difference. They just need to flex the same way when they leave the bow.

Can we figure out how to sharpen the tip of the Broadheads ? If there is already a way I’m all ears ?

28" draw/314 IBO/65 lb draw/410 gr arrow T W/265 fps

Ave speed of a 449 grain tuned arrow at 59.7#@29" is 251fps. Single cam bow Bear Whitetail Legend. Nothing fancy, but it'll do. The way I check my arrow straightness is to place the arrow against a straight edge (aluminum yardstick/circ saw guide) holding the center against the edge and looking at the ends as I rotate the shaft. On a .006 arrow you will see where the end slants away from the edge and a gap forms (you can use it to tap out some morse code). The end with the largest gap is the front/point end and gets the most length cut off to get to length. I usually take about .5 to 1 inch off the back/nock end anyway. I like the straightest end on the nock end so that the string has a straight shaft to push and thus avoid introducing any more deflection at the point of release and keep arrow flight as clean as possible. This is especially important when shooting trad gear, there's already enough wobblyness potential in the system without pushing on a crooked shaft.

😉👍

Is it normal that the berger holes are not exactly in the middle of the bow?

AAE makes a knob for 5 fletch.

I hope this Save someone’s headaches! Whenever you were discussing peep rotation, one of the variants from the one that you recommended changing strings (rotation of peep during your draw) is due to other ways of tying peeps. Let me explain, there is ways of tying peeps that do not bind the string at the top and at the bottom which leads to changing the way the strings rotate( example of altering how your string rotation happens due to variants in your strings twist/space is the way a bowmar peep tuner works, it creates the same effect), if you change that method to your way of tying a peep it will fix that issue. Again it’s not always, but this was my case! Thank you so much for the amazing knowledge you’re sharing.

I shoot 100 grain in both compound and crossbow , looking for a pack that can be for either bow which do you recommend and do you offer any discount code right now to try your products?

I use a Kydex holster for my Nock2it. Made it myself. Just clips on my belt or to molle straps on my pack. Sometimes I will clip it on my gear hanger once set in the tree.

Been shooting the Velocity SL’s with the IRIS collar system now for 2 months. I’d stack them against any arrow on the market. The collars are damn near bullet proof. Setting up my new sight, I put one through 2 pieces of 2x4. Pulled it out and shot out Elk target, lights out at 82yrds. Highly, highly recommend. Plus they’re Canadian and have awesome service!

Do you think they are better then Easton axis 5mm arrows

If your shooting 3d the catalyst from factor are awesome as well…. He has 5/6 different arrows as well as many different designs of wraps, great shooting product!

I wish you could get them in 250 spine

What would you charge for a set of your strings? I have a mock 34 and I have a mock 30 that I would love to get new strings on.

to bad they dont have .001 all they have is .003

Great idea! Must be some kind of epoxy paint? I like using orange fluorescent wraps.

Love my apex SL arrow shafts!

1 inch is big enough

pretty good advice. One caveat. The string has to be in the center aligned with all that hardware in the middle. Assuming the cams and limbs are all aligned with that,, wammo! I would align the cams if out, then ensure aligned with limbs all to the riser and then you have the two perfectly lined up points and should be shootin center when all done. I dont even mount equipment till I have a tuned bow to riser which is where your limb bolts are. In short you are aliging the end of the limb to the other end and correcting tilt on the cam first. You may be better to line that shaft up to the middle or upper part of the berger hole. When those were originally put on the old metal hanger compounds they used a bolt with an arrow rest on the end of it that put the arrow right on top or half way up the berger hole. I bet that carry over is till expecting that arrow shaft center to be right close to the top of that berger hole. I find it funny that howard hill could hit an aspirin out of the air and won 167 field tournaments in a row all while his arrow was pointing WAY left of center on the string riser and limbs. That arrow wants to go there within the path that the limbs and string are pointing. It may flip around a bit to get there but will make it if the arrow can bend enough to work it out. Usually straightens out before 15 yards.

Excellent episode Leigh. It is refreshing to hear someone talk about keeping it simple. Too many people are into the weeds on all the tiny details which in the end make such little difference.

Can you go over budget home shop recommendations? My main question is the difference between an emergency portable cable bow press vs the cheapest LCA press for routine maintenance. Thanks!

The vortex binocular/range finder is awesome I didn’t know that was a thing I’m definitely buying that awesome video!

Yes, definitely! You have an amazing amount of knowledge for someone your age. Pass it on and keep learning. I love your bow setup btw...AND you're a Doobie Bros fan?! Just great content man!!!

What version broadhead were these?

Love the broadheads. They shoot amazing. Jeremy Aron and Daniel lemmon DIY hunters turned me on to them. Keep up the good work, fellas.

I use a 22 caliber bronze brush to scrub inside of a 6.5 shaft. Then acetone on a Q tip. That said I did lose an insert Sunday in a 3d target but I’m guessing I didn’t get it clean enough. I used black insert CA. I bought a bottle from a shop

Check out AOT release aid holders. Work great

Gorilla hot glue is an excellent choice. I've been bow hunting for 40 years and its hands down the best for inserts. Impact resistant and makes expensive brass inserts reusable when arrow gets trashed.

Where are your broadheads made I tried to look on the website couldn’t figure it out

Good tips but I would say practice with your gloves instead of not wearing them when it’s cold. I shot with and without gloves and with two different thicknesses of gloves for temperature and it’s not hard if you have the right gloves. KUIU makes nice thin ones that are still warm

Usually paper tuning for compound with a release and bare shaft with a recurve with fingers. I never had any luck at all with bare shaft tuning a compound . I used paper tuning with both trackless and tracked field crossbows. I'm not saying I'm correct just my experience.

Black Eagle specifically says not to clean their arrows. Also, using kimshaw Hot Melt works amazing, and you can get the inserts out if you need to.

Removing the nock to avoid airlock while the insert is being glued in is an important step also.

I got a dorsal aorta kill on my bull elk. Lucky miss is right. Died 60 yards or so

Cheers from the saddle hills. Just found your channel. Looking forward to going through your existing videos and more to come

Wicked idea

Great video. Ive had to junk 1 arrow per dozen because of an Easton aluminum hit insert because of impacting the structure of a 3D target out of a entry level bow. (Easton axis 340 @70lbs for 240fps) I upgraded to a faster pse and just immediately switched to rip tkos with 25 grain stainless hit inserts with 25 grain collars (iron will)

The black color is usually the result of small carbon and rubber particles for viscosity and impact resistance. Permabond 735 is the original stuff, and everyone else just rebrands it.

Also didnt know you were canadian leigh, cheers! 🇨🇦