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You more than likely will have to replace the spring if I’m not mistaken, it should have a washer against the spring to ride on. Let me look up a schematic and I’ll try finding.

I liked my own comment

PTO

Yeah dude ,are u okay??

Unfortunately, that usually happens the best that I can tell you is to use some type of penetrator such as PB blaster or WD-40. There is a special can that uses subzero temperatures very cold to freeze the bolts to free them up easier it’s not too expensive. I forgot what it was called though.

Unfortunately they are very had to find parts for. You may have to make a gear for it or find one at a place that sells them

At the moment all mine needs is the pitman arm that has the oil cup like yours in the video.

@@derweibhai I made my pitman arm. Use a hardwood.

That’s a good question it’s always a good idea to prime any type of metal you are painting however, there are some paints out there that can be directly applied to metal. because they have the primer mixed in with it. I would also highly suggest trying to sandblast it, making sure the paint can get to freshly cleaned metal

@@coyotecolors hey thanks for the reply! I’ve been cleaning everything with a wire brush on a angle grinder and drill. I’ve asked a few people that have painted tractors, equipment, etc and they said to prime everything. Just one more question, I was thinking about getting a needle scaler to sandblast some parts. How would you recommend sandblasting?

@@coyotecolors I’ve also been soaking parts in evapo-rust, it seems to be working good as well.

I would try getting a independent sandblaster sprayer that hooks up to an air compressor. Make sure you have one that has a very big compression rate and get very good media for spraying all the metal some thing that’s pretty course.

@@coyotecolors Ok, thank you for the info! I’ll talk to my grandpa about using his sandblaster. I would like to sandblast it but the “sand” it uses is like $50 a bag. Parts seem to be pretty hard to find for these old things. I know of 1 supplier and that’s it. Maybe I’ll find someone with an old one for parts. Thanks for responding!

Missouri

Unfortunately, yes, but I have severely damaged some parts doing it. A lot of them were pressed on our have Ruston onto the point to where removing it will cause catastrophic damage. I have not yet found a way to easily fix that problem.

one of your other followers in the comments asked about finding parts for these...other than ebay...or finding another parts machine doner. Son you happen to know the name of these places?

@@jeffdagendesh2482 I know here in Missouri there are a lot of antique farm equipment stores. If you search up your states name and type in antique farm implement stores, you should find some usually in bigger country towns.

Yes it’s very difficult to get that axel out need a lot of patience and heat. And you need to make sure it’s the right correct fit for the bearing you are replacing.

@@coyotecolors i enjoyed you video on this. I have 2 McCromick Deering, #6 in the process of redoing. everything seems to be loose. But i wanted to flush out those axle bearings some how

@@jeffdagendesh9011 you can definitely use Molly grease or a high-pressured grease gun. You may have to drill out a part of the frame to install a grease nipple on it. I have done that in the past.

On what part are you referring to?

tractor stabilizer bars i think is what they are called? Basically I’m removing them so i can just hook up the 501 to my 3 pt hitch

@@dougirwin3053 oh, I see what you were referring to. Honestly they came out pretty easily. However, you may have to wind up blow torch in them to put on three point hitch attachments.

No sir I do not unfortunately

Hi good question the newer sickle mower all they really have that are different from the older ones are hydraulic lifts. If you don’t mind spending the extra money the newer ones are somewhat easier to use but you can get a nice cheap sickle mower that’s old for around a couple hundred dollars they’re not expensive at all. Starting out if you decide to use a sickle mower and use it a lot for deep ditches like you say you may want to invest in a newer one

That’s a good question yes look to see if any other blades are hitting on the shear beds. Or rock guards Also look to see if the bar of the sycamore is straight and true and it’s not curved at all

@@coyotecolors Thank you I'll check out those areas. I had forgotten that the blade assembly was called a sycamore. Nice nostalgia word 👍

So far I have no complaints on this tractor other than it is hard to find parts for. The engine manufacture was from a company over in Romania

@@coyotecolors yeah, that’s what I thought. I’ve scoured eBay to see what’s on their, random things but prices aren’t terrible. Gotcha, that’s interesting

I have an old rusty one of these I may try and get going, I just missed someone selling another one for $500.

I know they are a few places around the country that actually have a large surplus of these types of pieces of equipment. I believe one is in Florida and another is in California

@@coyotecolors mine is rough I know it was working when I was little and a tree limb fell on it

@@travishopelogan2192 And unfortunately you can’t really weld on that stuff too without arcwelding

They are called shims!!