วีดีโอ

@@bookey27 I believe I go over it in the video, but you will have to use some wire cutters and cut some of the plastic that’s in that area of the alternator. You then need to install the 90 on there and put the fuel rail and the fitting on there together

Thanks for the response and I did miss that at the very beginning of the video.

@ no problem, let me know if you have any other issues, good luck!

@@7digis the pump is a bit of a bear to get out, but you have to keep working at it and pry gently on the plastic. I used the aftermarket sock that came with the pump, haven’t had any issues

What are you thinking smells worse than trans fluid?

@@garagegrunt8154definitely really old coolant. smells like rotten fish to me

@@garagegrunt8154bad cats

@@gregrogers3030 this!!!!

@@lupano805 I ended up having to replace the Axle. I have a how to video that’s attached to this short on my channel

@ thanks that will help out a lot!

@@nickc6332 I’ve tried it and it doesn’t work. Have you had success with it?

@garagegrunt8154 yes I can confirm it works. Everyone knows that rust is iron oxide. Rust converter changes it chemically. When something doesn't work, it traps the rust behind. You cannot simply suffocate the rust. Neither can you fully physically remove the rust. Human nature is to oppose everything that is not desired by eliminating it. And it NEVER works. You must embrace the problem and find out how to counter it. You cannot eliminate it.

Maybe, assuming there is no damage to the joint due to lack of grease

I am not 100% sure, but it shouldn’t be that much different. The 2500 has a beefier rear end if I remember correctly, the concept should be very similar.

Yes, as part of DOD delete, you change the cam as well, it’s all part of the kit.

Excellent question, I actually did a how-to segment on this but accidentally recorded it on time laps (oops). The way you do that is you have a hose that threads into where spark plugs go and you apply pressure to it (20-30 psi). That keeps the valve up while you swap the springs. As for the trunnions, I did not do that yet, that will be the next item on the to do!

@@JK-li7fp Anytime! Thank you for taking the time to visit the channel!!

@@Anythingyagot why? It’s more expensive and leaves behind a residue?

@@mistadigz7203 this is not an LS motor. The difference is that on an LS motor your pickup tube is bolted to the pump, here the pickup tube is part of the oil pan, the purpose of the tool is to make sure the oil pump seats AND seals to the pan while accounting for the gaskets.

​@garagegrunt8154 I get it, but same concept... I've gone 4 LT's this year so far. I get, better safe than sorry on the alignment. Those pistons or the fuel system will fail 1st. Those motors has been very troublesome since 2014.

@ agreed, it’s one of those decisions you have to make and if you’re willing to tear it all back apart. The truck that motor came out of has a big lift/wheels on it, I was NOT willing to do that again 🤣. These motors have definitely been a let down, not like the LS or LQ blocks that are simple and easy to put together.

yeah people get weird about these things... also I've done about a dozen lt cams and only remove the pump if I break the tensioner.

You can, but its more than just the spacing in the gear with feeler gauges because the housing of the oil pump needs to sit in a specific area to make sure its sealed to the oil pan. You can always take the risk and try to eyeball it, but at that point in time, its too much work to not take the precaution.

DOD uses high volume oil pump. After you remove the oil controlled lifters and plug the oil galleys there's a whole lot of oil coming out of the pressure relief valve in the oil pan. That sprays all over cylinder walls and burns oil. Yes there is a GM deflector you can put on the relief valve. Its not 200% mandatory but highly recommended by Mechanics, designers and engine guys far smarter than us to change to a standard volume pump. Just a thought.

There was not enough slack to remove the chain, the oil pump had to come off. What exactly do you mean not have sufficient tolerance? You use it as a location guide, there is no tolerance needed.

@@Modern-Muscle-PNW no, if you have an LSA you will need the timing sprocket that has the 4 bumps (the mistake I made). You can google to see which one you need or just compare the bumps from the one you remove to the one you order.

Nice work! What length push rods did you install? Also did you preload a preliminary tune file before the first start?

@ thank you! The pushrods were standard length (7.400), as for the tune, I didn’t due anything. I made sure I didn’t beat on the car until it got tuned.

No, there is no silicone needed, it's just the gasket.

Thank you! I appreciate your time and your comment!

@@garagegrunt8154 You help very much with this video.

You have to email them, especially around Black Friday. They get back to you within a few hours, very easy to work with. Free tip: order with PayPal and take advantage of the 0% no interest for 12-24 months!

@ thank you appreciate it 💯

Hahah I could hear people dying inside! I barely garage it, it’s made to be driven! Thank you!!

Can you share your experience? Interested to understand what you mean by useless.

Also what did you do about the cam do i have to swap that to the ls2 or buy an upgraded one??

It runs very good! With the turbo on there I’m making almost 800 to the wheels which is pretty rowdy. What are your goals with the your TBSS? That will tell you what parts you need to get. You can reach out to me on Instagram at garagegrunt.

@@alexandercahoulan6583 thank you very much! I could not find any info on how to do this and it seemed a standard practice to spend $3k on a new transfer case. I figured this will help the car community out as it’s much can cheaper (and easy) to do!

@@brandonburwell2734 no problem, good luck!!

I used my impact gun to tighten it down by holding the flange.

Thats very interesting, I've used mine for the last 7-8 years without any issues. Maybe there is a vast difference in quality.

@@garagegrunt8154 Based on the reviews I’ve seen this is a 50/50 thing.

@@sw00dlesplz59 thank you for the input! Did you press the brake pedal while you pulled vacuum?

@ yea I ended up just using the pedal but even tho the little cup kept filling up to fast

@@brianobrian6637 thank you very much for the comment! I am actually starting to do that now. At the time of those videos I just started making them as I did ALOT of work on cars and I was quickly learning that others could benefit from these kinds of at-home builds. I didn’t put too much thought into products/etc. It’s on my to do list to go back through and do that, I’ll get it done sooner than later 🤣!

@@rapinncapin123 not at all, it’s a basic vacuum hand pump

@@rotrmotr I got mine from Amazon

@@brotherkossi it may, but what I found that it does is it smoothes over the scale instead of knocking it off. Also, it’s hard to get into tight spaces with the wire wheel.

Yes it can but it need to be the thick knotted ones

@@garagegrunt8154 on an angle grinder 3-5 inch knotted wire wheels easiest way known to man for stripping to bare metal. Scaler is best for super tight areas. If you use a knotted wire wheel to strip, barrel sander for removing excess inside of pitting and a scaler for tight spots you can get sandblasting like results