วีดีโอ

@@johnclayton12able when we rebuild these packs we use steel rivets size 5/32 with 1/64 to 1/8 grip

@@MdTaraqAzizChowdhury I am out of stock right now on the Inverter unit.

@@vaibhavvaghela1213 Hello, there are several things you have to look for. 1st is to have your 12v battery tested to make sure it is good. 2nd make sure all connections and grounds to engine are good. 3rd see what the output voltage of DC to DC converter is. 4th perform a manual IMA battery charge then perform a load test using just A/C unit to see if modules are out of balance. Most of the information you need to look at can be seen though a full vehicle scanner or custom apps.

@@carlosmedrano8656 thank you so much for your reply so quickly.. I really appreciate it. I replaced my 12V battery to new and it’s good. I am not sure about ground wire and all other connections. I will check output of the dc to dc converter. Can I just check while car running ? Thanks again for the help

@@carlosmedrano8656thank you so much for your reply.I love your videos and your work. It’s amazing I just want to give an update about my car here. I checked all my ground cables and all had corrosion and not good so I replaced all with new ones. After that I placed ima battary back on. I started the engine and it was smooth start as my 12 V battery was fully charged and had 13V. And then I turned off and start again and it was not smooth start and 12 v battery voltage was 12.2 V, it dropped. I shut off and start the ignition again not the engine and check the input of the dc to dc converter which was around 168V and output which is connected to 12 V battery was showing as what 12V battery showing which is 12.2 V . After I started engine and check input volatage of dc to dc converter which was 80 - 90 V, i dont know why it dropped, and output was same as 12 v and was dropping slowly. Moreover, I took out the out put terminal of dctodc converter and check the voltage on the screw of that which was showing 0V. That’s mean, I was seeing output voltage of 12 V battery which means dc to dc converter not working. Please advise me next step What do you think could be the problem. I checked ima battery and it seems alright when I removed it but when engine start it drops voltage. Even if I dont start engine, it should charge 12 V battery right? But it was not charging while I measured 168 V input of it. Please advise what should I do next Your video helped me alot and I lover your method of teaching. Thank you Keep doing good work ❤❤

They are only compatible if you swap all 11 modules/pairs. 2009-2011 civic uses 5.5 amp hour modules the Insight 2010-2014 uses 6.5 amp hour modules. This means they charge and discharge at a different rate and your whole pack will be out of balance if you mix amp hour ratings, throwing on the IMA light for a faulty battery pack.

@@carlosmedrano8656 Thank you very much, it's amazing to be able to get help so fast, congratulations on your channel.

@@lightworker303 The DC to DC converter takes the high voltage and converts it to charge 12v battery not the other way. The Inverter is the one that charges IMA pack.

Hi, sorry for the late reply. Was the Holiday season and was out of town. You can test the voltages with the pack out of the vehicle as long as the orange harness is good. Keep in mind this is to test voltages which is useful to determine the voltage difference in the pack. You have to load test to figure out capacity.

@@carlosmedrano8656 ok I tested out 160v using that technique you show on video. I'm assuming that's a good voltage? My civic is 07.

@@jesusdenver8211 The voltage is barely where it needs to be. At around 158 is when your high voltage starts charging, engine should come on. Take a reading of the 11 blocks/modules and make sure the voltage difference is less then .25 volts between the highest and the lowest. A charged up pack should be around 168 to 172 volts. Right now, based on the info you gave, your modules are averaging around 14.5 which is on the low end, a decently charge pack should average around 15.5 to around 16.5 per module.

@@carlosmedrano8656 if I pop it in the car and do the 10 sec disconnect 12v negative battery - reconnect 12v battery technique, it will charge up the ima still right. Since it still has 160v. My civic I just bought won't activate the DC converter. Someone had mention if it's below 100v, a lot of stuff will shut down. Which i tested out came to 96v. The new one I just got shows 160v.

@@jesusdenver8211 as long as the BMS does not detect any other issues, yes. Keep in mind there is a lot happening in the IMA system. When you turn on the power all the computer modules come on and start communicating via the CAN system. Once once powered on, the dash/info module talks to the BMS module and looks at the IMA system starting with the SOC of battery pack and voltage difference between all modules to include the three temp sensors. Then it communicates with the Inverter Unit/MPI to see the state of the IMA motor in the transmission. If all system check good, the computer then allows charging as needed.

Sorry for the late reply, was the holiday season and I was out of town. Are you able to pull all DTC's from your vehicle, if so what are they?

Please explain how you believe the case is tied to the the main ground ground. The Voltage sense module is isolated in the video and non of the contactors/relays are on. Based on the vehicle schematics/diagrams there is nothing tying the case to the high voltage ground.

@@carlosmedrano8656 I don't have the schematic, but I'm sure if you check for continuity on across the system negative and the metal body of the hybrid batter, they will be connected internally, I remember seeing the green cable tied to the output negative of the battery. I am searching for a similar error and will have to take it apart and will confirm whether that is true or not.

@@ahmedsaid3967 With the Voltage sense module connected your will have continuity, there is a series of resistors inside for high voltage detection. So if you checked with the module connected, then yes. Also if look closer at the issue you are having, the service manual breaks it down into three sections. The battery itself, the main high voltage cables to inverter/ and the MG1-MG2 and A/C compressor sections. This video is focused on the battery pack itself, not the other sections.

The only information I have for this modules, is who makes them. Prime Earth makes them and it's all I have www.peve.jp/en/product/np2_5/

Need a minimum of 144v for the high voltage input and standard 12v for the low side

@@carlosmedrano8656 thanks.

This vehicle communicates via a CAN Bus system, the 12v system is monitored by the vehicle main computer. If you have corrosion and faulty connections, you will have resistance, therefore the voltage it sees is lower and tells the DC to DC converter to increase ouput. Keep in mind that if your 12v battery capacity is low, due to age, it will also do the same thing. The weaker the battery the higher the resistance computer sees.

@carlosmedrano8656 Thank you Carlos. I have bad news. Around noon time I couldn't start my car again. After I jump started it, the voltage doesn't show anymore 14.55V on the battery or the terminals (they are not coroded). Instead, it shows now 12.55V. When the car is off, the battery shows 10.0V. After the car is running for 20 min. or so I can still start it, otherwise I have to jump start it. When I increase the rpm to 3800 or higher I can see the voltage goes to 14.55V. When rpm goes below that then the voltage goes down as well. It wasn't behaving like that yesterday, but now this is my new update. What do you think it's bad? The car has now 153680 miles on it. Thank you.

@@carlosmedrano8656 New update: So I found out that my 12V battery was manufactured in March 2019, which was 4 years and 7 months ago. Since there was no error/warning light on dashboard I suspected that it might be the 12V battery issue. Even though Autozone tested the battery and test showed "good, needs charge" I went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved. I also replaced the old positive terminal that was already too large from cleaning and before I had to use an extra metal ring to secure it. The new terminal fits perfectly now. The voltage shows now 14.56V on the battery when the car is running and 12.59V when the car is off. It's been 7 days now and so far so good. Thank you.

I'm just following up, it's been about 2 months since I replaced my 12V battery and my car is still running great. So the issue was with the 12V battery. Also, I'd like to mention that I realized that I did a mistake when I put anti-corosion lubricant between the terminals and the battery contacts (inside the terminals where is the actual connection with the battery). The lubricant supposed to be on the battery contacts/terminals after the terminals are already connected and tighten up with the battery and not inside the terminals where is the actual connection with the battery. This might have created resistance and cause a lower voltage from the battery (this was when I still had the old battery). So if someone is reading this don't do the same mistake. Nevertheless, the old 12V battery was bad and the new battery resolved my issue. Thank you.

The input power source is directly from an IMA battery pack. The 12V battery is a standard 12v automotive battery. The electric motor you hear in the back ground is a 12v 500 watt electric scooter motor and it is connected directly to the battery to keep a constant load. Basically draining the battery. The converter kicks in once activated via the little wire and it compensates the loss of power and starts charging the battery.

If you do that you risk draining your IMA pack below it's nominal voltage. That 12v signal is from a controlled source that shut it off if the rest of your IMA system is not working correctly.

@@carlosmedrano8656 dam any ideas to what can be my issue . I replaced dc converter it it’s still showing battery light . Thanks for the quick reply too 🙏🙏

@@jasonlightbearer335 There are many things that could keep this converter from turning on. Is your IMA inverter actually charging your IMA pack? Is the Battery control module coming online via the CANN Bus? Is the relay that powers on the IMA control systems good? is the fuse that powers on those relays good? Many possibilities.

@@carlosmedrano8656 will check all above

Yes, about 45 to 60 amps depending on model of inverter. When I have time I will create another video showing a load on the inverter unit.

Dear Sir In case of Emergency installed Battery charger At LV circuit Against DC to DC ( Civic 2006 to 2016 ) 14 volt 40 Amp

If you mean a charge controller, yes. I actually use three Ford Escape hybrid battery packs converted to 72 volts and a 60amp solar charge controller.

Mine is shorted at mains side do you now what the problem is