Impact Route Setting
Impact Route Setting
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Oriane Bertone's INSANE Coordination // Boulder Breakdown
This week, we take a deeper dive into Oriane Bertone's send of this hyper complex co-ordination boulder.
Want to start your own Route Setting Journey? Sign up for our route setting course here: impact-route-setting.getlearnworlds.com/course/setting-essentials
Want to try route setting out for yourself? Book one of our courses here: www.impactroutesetting.co.uk/book-online
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Here's the kit we use and recommend. We do earn a small commission from these links (so buying with them is a great way to support the channel) but don't worry, it won't cost you a penny more!
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มุมมอง: 894

วีดีโอ

Route Setting for the UK's SCARIEST Climbing Comp
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Come behind the scenes to see the setting process for one of Britains biggest every climbing comps, The North Face Deep Water Solo Comp. We had 2 days to create the routes for some of the worlds best climbers to go head to head on this 18m wall above the thames. Watch our battles against the weather, time and missing the England game. Want to start your own Route Setting Journey? Sign up for ou...
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WE ARE BACK! Thanks to everyone that we have talked to that has shown so much support for these videos. We've been incredibly busy here at Impact, but now we're delighted to bring back the Boulder Breakdown Series. This week, we take a deeper dive into THE move from last year, the Slab 360. Want to start your own Route Setting Journey? Sign up for our route setting course here: impact-route-set...
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The Impact team recently had the chance to set a training event for double World Cup winner, with the aim of creating some boulders that focus on styles from some of the harder boulders from the recent World Cup season. Check out the setting and testing process when creating boulders for one of the best climbers in the world. Want to learn about route setting yourself? Subscribe to be the first...
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ความคิดเห็น

  • @kieran_himself
    @kieran_himself 11 วันที่ผ่านมา

    great breakdown! very interesting spotting the footwork as well - two details seem intentionally coordinated as such - her right foot hops 30cm down the volume as she generates the swing in the first move (redirects the momentum slightly upwards by changing the angle between foot and hands?), also her right heel pivots as she does the paddle sequence and then hops, leaping for the last hold, before landing again further right in the final position (just to make the distance required for the final hold from the most efficient foot position further left for the paddle?) cant wait for more 👍

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 11 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Cool video. I reckon the way the tried to stop on the 2nd move would be possible if executed perfectly

  • @artm6305
    @artm6305 15 วันที่ผ่านมา

    As a non-climber it took me a few hours figure out the beta, but I finally got it.

  • @HiveWinnipegHornets
    @HiveWinnipegHornets หลายเดือนก่อน

    0:43

  • @HiveWinnipegHornets
    @HiveWinnipegHornets หลายเดือนก่อน

    1:13 1:29

  • @HiveWinnipegHornets
    @HiveWinnipegHornets หลายเดือนก่อน

    6:24

  • @leoniedebot1882
    @leoniedebot1882 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nothing like a boulder breakdown to relax with after a tiring day 😅. But really, it works magic. I love how in breaking down a boulder you reveal the underlying structure of the design.

  • @magma2moose
    @magma2moose 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    The odds you see this are very low but if you could send a link to the plans again? The one in the pinned is no longer working!

  • @luziel3071
    @luziel3071 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Any time they set something super powerful and shouldery I’m like „alright where is Yannick to show us how to do it?“ 😂

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Not a proper routesetter, he's wearing climbing shoes

  • @masasakano
    @masasakano 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    It is insightful to see you climb down so much just to swap hands. I'll bear the possibility in mind to work out baffling move sequences. Thanks!

  • @ChauNguyen-tj8dm
    @ChauNguyen-tj8dm 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    There's no Janja and any Japanese climbers in the clip? That can not be the best. FMHO

    • @impactroutesetting
      @impactroutesetting 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      The very first climber is Japanese. Janja was also injured for much of this season so wasn’t entering the events

  • @jimmyflipper8093
    @jimmyflipper8093 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Good work guys. 👍 An interesting look behind the scenes of the settings, testing and logistics of this comp. 😁👊

  • @danieldamico-hn8rs
    @danieldamico-hn8rs 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    This is the real shit

  • @rojowater6948
    @rojowater6948 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Banger

  • @joel6376
    @joel6376 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    So judging by how youtubers are reporting this event, the press kit told you to call it the scariest..?

    • @impactroutesetting
      @impactroutesetting 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      No press kit that I’m aware of. I think generally being terrified was a pretty big theme for most people though!

  • @nathanking635
    @nathanking635 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    31:45 the synchronization is so sick

  • @niklasbirksted8175
    @niklasbirksted8175 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Would an extra "shadow" hand hold in the middle of the 360 not be ok as zone? If it was made as a thumb press (like in the womens lead, only a worse hold) that could only stabilize the athlete when they're halfway through the section?

  • @GTkoze
    @GTkoze 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Always a good day when impact post

  • @ThePickleMan2521
    @ThePickleMan2521 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I’d rather fall into traffic than fall into the themes

  • @JoshRundle
    @JoshRundle 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nice one guys!!! Impact the best setters in the game!

  • @Rob-ez2cm
    @Rob-ez2cm 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Heya, what program are you using to draw on the recording?

  • @Tootie_patootie93
    @Tootie_patootie93 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Anybody getting sweatty hands while watching this or is it just me???

  • @es7118
    @es7118 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    What comp was that Janja coordination boulder at?

  • @coolguyASDQWEFEWFADSFAS
    @coolguyASDQWEFEWFADSFAS 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    what is your opinion on the following: competition style and new moves make the barrier of entry to competition climbing undeniably very high and dilutes the total amount of talent entering the sport at high level competition. For example, the amount of space, holds, and expertise in route setting is simply not available to the vast vast vast majority of people who climb. If you aren't from a major metro area with access to world class multi multi million dollar gyms (which don't exist outside of the USA and rich european countries, and some rich asian metropolis areas) you really don't have much of a chance. Many of these problems cost close to 10 thousand USD to set and take up huge amount of gym space. You constantly see success from the same names on the same teams who train in the same gyms/areas. If you're not geographically located close to these facilities good luck learning the new hot movement. Before competition style and new moves took over in the early-mid 2010's it was possible to learn climbing from simple homewalls and poor areas could have access to just a 10ft by 10ft board which can get you to the v13+ level and beyond. The high level of competition now are completely dominated by who has access who which level of facility. If you don't have a huge variety of problems set mimicking world-cup setting it's really not possible to reach any success in the world cups, which was not the case before, for example daniel woods, malcolm smith, etc, could win by focusing on outdoor or basic board style gym climbing style which have extremely low barriers of entry available to essentally anyone who can access some plywood. In my opinion it makes the sport overall less accessible and especially favours rich countries with massive resources even more than sports already do.

  • @magical8013
    @magical8013 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    We have some amazing rock climbers in utah, Brooke is one hell of a female climber. I've actually seen her at a few places in Utah before.

  • @ParkerRamthun
    @ParkerRamthun 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Love these videos and your setting videos! Looking forward to more

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Why do you have spotters in indoor bouldering?

  • @simonrobbins815
    @simonrobbins815 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great sequence. Was very spectacular high on the lead wall for Mia Krampl & Janja in the World Cup last year. Super happy to have done an easier version (V4) at my local gym.

  • @willmabe1918
    @willmabe1918 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    v10 in my gym

  • @mitk259
    @mitk259 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Only dynamic stuff :( Id like to see also static moves in the top list. Always dynamic is also boring...

  • @leggomuhgreggo
    @leggomuhgreggo 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    So good

  • @johnwright712
    @johnwright712 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    i would love it if you also talked about the wall angle!

  • @peteli
    @peteli 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Sick flow

  • @zerobread9968
    @zerobread9968 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    My toxic trait is falsely thinking I could do some of these 😂

  • @deslomator
    @deslomator 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    A route setting channel? Let's subscribe and binge watch!

  • @NoLadder
    @NoLadder 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Mix that with parkour

  • @MiddleAgedBoulderGuy
    @MiddleAgedBoulderGuy ปีที่แล้ว

    Cool ad.

  • @haopakkeli6555
    @haopakkeli6555 ปีที่แล้ว

    Camera angle is so annoying

  • @lambdalandis
    @lambdalandis ปีที่แล้ว

    What’s the ladder you’re using there? Any idea what it’s called?

  • @TAS_CNX
    @TAS_CNX ปีที่แล้ว

    Should be mentioned that the hand match was intended to be impossible by the setters

  • @gabrielmascolo
    @gabrielmascolo ปีที่แล้ว

    V1 in my gym

  • @mustardahc
    @mustardahc ปีที่แล้ว

    excelent content, specially for us route-setters! One question (or maybe several), when setting boulders like this, where the arm span can be a critical factor, how do you take it into account? When setting these forced dynamic moves, do you guys have/set limits for distance between holds for example?

  • @dnajlwosqkdasjczdbkahdwcs
    @dnajlwosqkdasjczdbkahdwcs ปีที่แล้ว

    I am an incredibly mediocre climber who struggles on v4s and can occasionally do v5s, but these people have inspired me to try my hardest to reach their level one day. I’m making progress as well, and climbing is all I think about now besides Elden Ring

  • @copelandcorley
    @copelandcorley ปีที่แล้ว

    What is the wall angle here?

  • @alexgalays910
    @alexgalays910 ปีที่แล้ว

    On non easy boulders, do you think it's sometimes beneficial to have a very cruxy problem? Or do you always try to keep the difficulty as consistent as possible across moves?

  • @bilbo3820
    @bilbo3820 ปีที่แล้ว

    Class video and editing

  • @chastitycastel5193
    @chastitycastel5193 ปีที่แล้ว

    Promo-SM

  • @driesvanoosten4417
    @driesvanoosten4417 ปีที่แล้ว

    I absolutely loved it. Sure, the parkour style, paddles and laches are sexy, but this is the real stuff

  • @nexovec
    @nexovec ปีที่แล้ว

    The wall should always have the right to refuse you. Brooke rabatou can always refuse first.