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@andrewkoch9895 we will try and make that one of our next videos. In the meantime you can watch me do it in this video at timestamp 15:19. th-cam.com/video/uDAFpGWxnqs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UKDx-GXnZ1Wxh2LN

Ikr!

We have had this issue before with other units. Here's a couple of things. 1. if it is a long run from tank to burner, it may be more difficult to bleed completely. 2. Yes, you are correct. If the filter is clogged or the pump screen (inside the pump cover), then it would stop working after a minute. 3. If they weren't cleaned, you could get a dirty nozzle, which would cause flame issues. 4. You may want to consider installing a de-airator or a return line to help remove the air. 5. Sometimes, air collects over time in the line where it runs along the ceiling (the highest point). If the problem continues check the filter and screen first. Thanks for reaching out. God bless!

@@BambergersInc. Thanks for the advice. Regarding #4 - while searching more yesterday I came across that 'Tiger Loop' device which does what you mentioned...takes the air out of the line. Looks pretty cool! We've never had any trouble out of this setup since 1996 when we first installed it, so I suspect (and hope), maybe I just didn't get all the air out the first time. I bled it again and got a lot more 'foam' out before it turned into just fuel. I'd still like to get one of those devices installed sometime. The feed comes out of the bottom of the tank (not ideal from what I learned, as far as potential to pick up sludge/dirt, and then it goes up to the basement ceiling across to the furnace, then down to the bottom of the furnace which is where they put the filter (don't know why - inexperienced installer?) and then to the pump. Total length is maybe 60 to 70 feet or so. At this point I'm confident it's an air in the line issue, based on all the foam I bled out yesterday - I bled out about 1/4 gallon before it got really clear. So I'll plan to eventually get one of those Tiger Loop devices installed if it happens again. 'Tigerloop TN Oil Deaerator' P.S. My furnace is SUPER clean and serviced every year. No black mess anywhere. It burns really clean and even looks really clean overall. I was shocked when I started watching TH-cam videos about other people's oil furnaces. LOL Wow.

@@BambergersInc. Sorry, one last thing. A few days ago I bled the pump while it was running and collected a little over 1/4 gallon before I saw just clear fluid, not foamy fuel. Today I decided to bleed it again because I'll be away from home for 4 days and wanted to be sure it was all set and wouldn't shut down if more air was in the fuel line. This time I collected a little over 1/2 gallon before I stopped seeing any foam. Does that sound about right/correct for about 65 to 70 feet of copper tubing/fuel line? (regarding how much you'd bleed before seeing just fluid with no foam/air bubbles) I do want to look into getting a 'Tigerloop' deaerator installed later on, but for now and since it worked fine for 28 years, I figured I can wait until next season when I'm prepared for it. For now, I'm not sure why all of a sudden I'm getting air in the line unless somehow the techs really haven't been changing the filter and it's dirty to the point where it's really trying to suck so hard it's somehow pulling in air...if that's possible. The other thing I'd like to do, once I get a Tigerloop is to switch the fuel line from the bottom of the tank to having the fuel line inserted from the top and leaving it about 5 inches from the bottom of the tank so there's never any chance it can suck in dirt/sludge from the bottom.

Not this Burner. Kagi made an awesome burner, but this one is Supreme Only. Tagi made the HS burner. Our Supreme is a one of a kind. Mr. Kagi told a guy if he really want to make his burner nice, he should add an air tank after the air solenoid. That way it would blow fresh air through the nozzle after shutdown. I told that guy he should buy a Shenandoah because the air tank is built in from factory for over 30 years!!!! That man drove right into my shop, saw the air tank and burner set up and bought it on the shot. But now we replaced our Shenandoah with Supreme, and these burners are the real deal. Easy to service, heaters only run when the gun has a call for heat, designed to work on by furnace Techs. Cant be beat. The Tagi burner made Clean burn famous. When Clean burn went away from that burner, I believe that is when they started down a bad road. Just my opinion. Thanks for the input, info like this is fun!

Perfect! I'm glad we could help you out. 😊

If you listen past the first 5 seconds, we state that it's a hot water heater and identical to restarting an oil furnace. Same burner... ("water heater" ..."hot water heater", same thing)

@BambergersInc. I did as a hvac contractor we will always bust chops, good video overall

Good catch! These guys couldn’t fix a light bulb

If the boiler is really dirty, it is probably a good idea to do that first. However, most of the time, that shouldn't really matter. The nozzle gets dirty from the inside with particles in the oil. The dirt on the outside of the nozzle is just cosmetic.

Yes, if there were bleeders put in when they were installed. Usually, it's not that way unless it's a second or third story. Normally, it's bled at the boiler

@lavernperkins5569 You are correct. We didn't in this video, but since then, we do make that change by plugging the oil side of the block and upping the wattage on the air. I believe we use a 400w on ours. I'll have to check.

Not sure what you mean by that? Are you thinking of a normal burner or a waste oil burner?

@BambergersInc. What was confusing?

This one was only a few years old, so it might have been under warranty. (When you get a new furnace, register the product so you get the full warranty). Normally, though, I would say replace the whole thing. Because its alot of work to pull out the furnace and swap the heat exchanger, just to reinstall a partially used furnace. Also, you don't know what else could be damaged. Another thing, figure out what cracked it...old age, fan motor when bad, gas pressure too high, fan switch went bad, DIRTY AIR FILTERS. You don't want it to happen again. Thanks for the question!

​@@BambergersInc.Thank you so much for your response I mainly do plumbing but I have a wall full of certificate that allow me to work on furnaces I just choose to stick with plumbing but the furnace in my own house the secondary heat exchanger plugged up a little not pulling enough vacuum and I'll be changing my furnace it is 14 years old and it's a heil say no more right. Keep on keeping people safe

That is true, I remember the good old days. Before, literally everything became subscription based.

You're welcome. Glad we could help!

It is a 2" brush. We were using steel brushes, but horse hair seems to work better. Probably want to get a 36" long brush.

Under 10 is generally safe, but our rule of thumb is under 100, preferably under 50 because all of it will go out the chimney in theory. However, you could have leaks so the lower the better

Yes a dielectric union would be great.

Since Its stainless steel, rust shouldn't be an issue. Right?

@@selwyn13 galvanized steel but they rust over time anyway.

Tape and dope should protect it but honestly a dielectric probably should’ve been installed, nice catch!

The same pipes went to their water heater

Half the fix is before the fastfill

You’re right, my mistake

I'm not sure why you think it was galvanized? It is definitely either black iron or black steel. Which is why the crazy corrosion. Also, this house is probably over a hundred years old...

Wasn’t in the cards

Haha

We will only know how long a pro press last in 5 more years. That soldered joint will be there in 50 years. No rubber seals. I kinda remember shark bites being the answer but I’ve seen many flooded walls and floor due to that “next answer”

One side we used a Furnco, on the other side we used a cast iron hub compression coupler made out of rubber!

Get on it!

Yep, it sounds like they were just spraying it from the outside straight on without removing the outer cover, which will definitely get junk stuck in the fins. It has to be at an angle if from the outside. But good job there. Also, you have to be careful using a pressure washer, because it can flatten the fins and keep the condenser from breathing. 👌

Nope