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Thank you for watching!

That's a much better idea! I thought it might be too thick and a pain to cut but i guess you proved otherwise! Lol

@@WastedWages402 use a carpet knife and you get all the extra leverage and it cuts really easy!

It still is doing great, no complaints here

None at all it still worked perfectly fine till I sold it yesterday lol (still works fine)

I packed it with some marine grease after the video, keeps stuff protected from moisture a bit

I wanna see a deleted 1.6 still!

No problem thank you for watching

@@WastedWages402 Can we use stock controllers for both setups. Fusion pro and esc+holmes?

It's been running amazing, no problems at all and so much fun! I've had it since the day the dealer got it in stock in 2022

Yessir and remove travel limiters

They are 110 but with the travel limiters removed they drop down far enough to be the same as 90mm I kept stock strut towers

@@WastedWages402 perfect thank you

No problem thank you for watching!

Thank you! I have the shorter links and driveshafts but didn't need them. There completely unnecessary and with stock ones you have full travel with no issues

Reset what? The ecu has any and all stored memory, so when you put in a new ecu it basically is the reset

Practice and confidence, you'll get it buddy

Def not hard just need more practice!

Haha that just gives ya a excuse to buy more transaxles and have spares! My welding skills are absolutely horrible and I'm using a 90$ (CAD) welder but I just bubble gummed er in there and got lucky it Held lol

I run 91 octane and the tune is for 91 octane I ran a tank of 110 through it just to test it out and it made no difference at all Without more mods in my opinion the tune is a waste of money. The pipe and tune are so expensive to get in Canada Maybe in the US where stuff is half the price it wouldn't be so bad

60HP, it feels like a completely different car with tons more torque

Because I like to have fun What am I supposed to only drive it on a paved road?

to the fender

Thank you

If it's shifting hard I would call the dealer and ask them to check it out while your still covered under warranty. Mine has a little bit of a bump when I shift but not enough to make me concerned at all, I wonder if your clutch tension thing is too tight possibly

250Lb , I'm only 135Lbs lol

Yes it does climb easier and is more stable, not a huge night and day difference but enough to notice it

Yes I do , alot. Like way more than you would think. The best thing you can do if your learning, Is work on getting the front tire up , and gently hitting the brake to get it back down, Gently , brake don't lock er up lol, very important to be easy on the brake while your learning Then after 20mins of that, try to wheelie a longer distance and maybe get that front tire up a bit higher, While still playing with the back brake and learning to balance/controll the bike Honestly the best thing you can do it's just play with that brake , while wheelieing and you'll start to get the confidence up and not think about it as much, After a while you will just naturally brake without thinking at all. Don't get frustrated or feel down that it's taking days and days and days (weeks even) to learn. It takes everyone lots of practice. And your gonna loop out, I do still all the time. When you loop out you will usualy, automatically jump off last second and not smash your head. If possible Don't practice on roads/concrete, use grass or dirt. And make sure to post a video when your happy having fun with it!

perfect thank you

Not enough to be worth the price, if I had a intake mod and bigger cam and injector it would be better. But in my opinion it's a waste of money, if your just doing a pipe and tune

I love the bubbs profile pic! Lol It's almost impossible these days to find them, I had a standard 2014 RS with the 1.4t or whatever it is and I found it so insanely slow. Plus I get 50+ mpg now lol

I did on mine yes

They just help it sit lower and not be so stiff

5' 11ish lol

I had 50wt rear and it was alot worse, I've been messing with it for a while now and have a 70wt in the rear 50wt up front, rear springs have a little preload fronts have none. The front has more rebound so levels it out a bit, the rear is slower rebound so it doesn't kick so hard. Front bottoms out worse on landings but the maxx is a chassis slap master... lol it drives and jumps better forsure

Thank ya me too I'm always fixing something on this thing lol

www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-trx4-steering-servo-mount-chassis-cross-tra8239/p668342 The stock Servo mount has the longer mount for the track bar, so if you get the standard (non high trail) Servo mount that'll raise the link up. Mine still just barely touches at full compression but definitely helped. (You can't buy just the mount it only comes in a kit with that brace, you don't need to use it , put it aside for spare parts)

Strange. I ordered a standard servo mount and it came with another plastic piece for the rear of the truck but no Track bar.

I also just cut my springs and removed the limiters

I've done it on all my dirtbikes for 15 years of motocross and never had any dirt get by Just don't use as much as I do In this video, I was focused on trying to make a decent video and slapped half the tube on there lol

I got them from Scalerfab, Thank you I appreciate it

Thanks man much appreciated! I just did the shock mod in you previously posted video. I got some parts on order to make my high trail a low trail! Followed all the links you listed

You can still run it broken, I did for weeks when the next one broke If your not in the skatepark on concrete it's fine for a bit. You run the risk of splitting it right open and the diff being exposed but I don't think that's very likely unless your Kevin talbot

The panhard bar just barely touches the diff cover when the suspension is fully compressed, it worked fine no issues. I ended up putting a standard Servo mount in (Non high trail) And 90mm springs to lower it but keep the 100mm shocks, and it doesn't touch Now. You could also bend the bar a tiny bit if your worried about it but it's perfectly fine

I've bashed and jumped this thing beat the crap out of it and it just loves it lol

@@WastedWages402Do you have a part number for the servo mount and hows the 90mm springs doing now?

Yz125s are fun as hell, nothing wrong with that!

Damn.. that's a pretty penny... lol It's not hard to spend way more than you plan with these things. Meth might be cheaper..

Taxes and big corporations choochin off the governments Shlong.. lol

It is almost a different truck with the brushless system , especially when you get it setup and tuned how you want

I don't know what those shocks are like, But if it's slapping the ground, and feels kind of bouncy Go to something thicker like 60wt-100wt If it's really slow shock travel and stiff , and you don't like it, you could go to a lighter oil like a 40wt

Honestly I'd buy like 3 different weights and try them out, when you find one you like stick with that one Now I like 80wt rear 60wt front in my truck, slower rebound in the back so it doesn't kick so bad on jumps

It’s just that it’s Leeking

Thank you! I think it's perfect, lowers it enough to look a little more realistic but you still keep full travel for the rocks

Thank you very much man I really appreciate that!!

@@WastedWages402 no prob! Do you think there is room for the hd peg bar between nubz/bbrskid

@tylerhamrick6411 I think there should be, I'm pretty sure I've read of people doing it, I can't imagine the mounting bracket would be much bigger, and worst case if the tabs are a bit too big a grinder will fix that!

@@WastedWages402 will let you know how it goes ! That’s the route ima take

I'd say Bars then pegs then bbr springs and Rods. And obviously before any of that Nubz Cradle bbr Skid Plate and shift shaft brace

@@WastedWages402 did you have any problems putting nubz cradle and bbr skid plate on together? I’m wanting to run the kinetic HD peg mounts