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I think the CPL is very easy to drop. It seems no adapta for the circle.

Bisa penggunaan handheld gak utk manual fokus om

Is that ground glass an original product (by Konica/Mamiya)?

Great video. The diagram does indeed help. I bought a GVM 1.5D used and also found the instructions to be totally worthless. My WiFi controller looks a bit different than in this video. Under "Timelapse" the first menu item is "Times," which shows a whole set of undecipherable digits. I have zero clue on what is going on. If anyone has a simple chart on the numbers I need to enter into my remote, please let me know!! All I need is a finished 10 or 12-second video (@ 24fps) that covers approximately 45 minutes of "real time" and uses one pass of the 31" slider (A-->B). So I guess I need about 240 total snaps of the shutter spaced 11 or 12 seconds apart. Why does GVM make it this hard?

THank you! great instruction without the 'fluff' and stuff

I met a person at Anthrocon with one of these this week.

I'd like to add a little something if I may, the 4 screws on the bottom can be removed in order to swing the plate around 180 degrees for a better orientation of the tightening knob. Use a little semi-permanent loc-tite on the tip of the threads to ensure the screws don't come lose. As for the "odd little thing", turn your camera 180 degrees in the mount and the odd little thing goes away with a mere 90 degree rotation of your handles. Turning the camera exposes all the handles for use albeit not the way you are used to. A benefit is recognised when you have a lens with a foot which again, turns the camera back to the way the 2-3 way head was intended to be used. I use this adapter with some pretty heavy equipment. Z9 with Z 800mm 6.3 PF. Just shy of 4200g. (9.2 lbs) Manfrotto MPMXPROC4 monopod, Manfrotto 234C monopod head, Haoge QR Clamp Adapter to Arca-Swiss, (4 screws removed, spun this plate for my use) MH-100 Wimberley MonoGimbal Head with Arca-Swiss base and rotating quick-release clamp. I use another Haoge QR Clamp converter on my tripod head, Manfrotto MHXPRO-3W. The alternative is very expensive. Hard installed, adapter kits from Hejnar Photo. Nice solid kits and well made. Almost $200 a crack. I've done 3 heads before I found the Haoge converters clamp. Cheers!

Think u explain timelapse on the GVM 80 slider. Asking for a friend.

bougth one and never used it on any job, the amount of time it takes to mount is considerable but my main issue is just that i cant seem to balance the camera with the focus motor on it.

still dont understandit . i almost bought this thing. why they made it so complicated

I got a camerig leveler which is almost exactly like your neewer, from amazon. I noticed your adjusting wheels moved smoothly but mine has a resistance on the wheels. The locking wheels move ok. I don't know what the neewer sells for but the one I got cost 41.59 plus tax. So thanks for your video it was enlightening. I used to be a transitman in land surveying and use a theodolite which used the three wheel leveling, but with far more precision than your neewer or my camerig. In land surveying I was always readjusting my tripod legs then the final theodolite leveling. Level "panning" was critical.

I use a star tracker for my skies. Last Thursday I took about 50 shots of the Orion Nebula and stacked them using Starry landscape Stacker without doing any noise reduction as the directions recommend. Then I process them using Photoshop still not doing any noise reduction and they came out okay. I saw your video and went into Lightroom and made a virtual copy of the TIF. Then I took that TIF and processed it with Topaz AI and it cleaned up the noise using the Standard Setting. Then I compared the original to the one denoised with Topaz AI and the Topaz AI version was much cleaner and did not seem to reduce the clarity. I also like the Lightroom Denoise and I use it on my foregrounds. I like to take about 5 foreground shots at ISO 1600. I Denoise those 5 shots using Lightroom's Denoise and then I stack them in Photoshop for a clean foreground. After all that is done I blend my Sky shot with the foreground using Sky Replacement in Photoshop.

Very interesting video, thanks. But what about meteorite trails? I suppose they would be treated like aircraft trails and removed?

Excellent comparison review. I have also found Imagenomic Noiseware to be a worthy addition in my editing.

Thanks for this video, really appreciate it. I’m thinking of using this with Garage Band in my IMac. I think the latency issue might be a problem but will enjoy giving it a go. 😃

Can I open my battery door with the L-Bracket?

Leaving head was the title

Awesome video, really appreciate the information However, am I the only one that has the screws from underneath fall off after a few turns up and down of the thumb wheels? I found this video in search of others with the same issue but I haven't seen anything yet. It's extremely frustrating.

I have a 58mm lens with its special viewfinder, but I’m curious as to if you have to buy the sport finder that has framing for multiple lenses in order to accurately frame a shot with the 90mm?

Where can I find that raised adapter plate

The slap shot film advance on mine has always been problematic, so the camera does not get used often. An interesting camera that I just had to have, but i cannot recommend buying one.

thank you

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banker%27s_lamp ''' The banker's lamp is a style of electric desk or table lamp often characterized by a brass stand, green glass lamp shade, and pull-chain switch'' '' The first patent for a banker's lamp was filed on 11 May 1909 by Harrison D. McFaddin, and were produced and sold under the brand name Emeralite ("emerald" and "light"). Emeralite lamp shades were produced by the J. Schreiber & Neffen factory located in the city of Rapotín, Moravia.[1] Later competitors were sold as "Greenalite", "Verdelite", and "Amronlite".[2]'' '' A British version of the banker's lamp was filed for a patent in 1929, which, instead of a glass shade, has a solid brass shade or reflector. In addition, the positions of both the pedestal and the shade are adjustable.[3]''

Thanks man, you are a life saver! :D

Thanks!

I never look at a picture at 200% 😅😅😅 people are never happy. Get only prime lenses or professional line lenses. They aren't perfect anyway no matter what level

Anyone else use one for action / street photography?

This is a good explanation of using a leveler for pano photography. Thanks.

Useful... but no three dots in my version :( ... But thanks for giving showing me it was possible. Managed, with some googling, to make a timelapse anyway by sorting the images into the right order, changing the standard still duration user setting to 1 frame, then dragging and dropping all images to the timelane.

thanks so much. never would have figured this out from the documentation!

Thank you so much.

Note that the 120 and 220 backs use only the length of film designated. They operate in a materially different manner. For example, once the back is in the "load" position, and you load a new roll of film, the 220 back requires four stokes of the advance lever to reach the first frame, while the 120 back requires only three strokes. There are no backs which will take either length of film, like many more modern cameras. Because of the different, internal cams governing their operation, neither back is user convertible between 220 and 120. Since there has been no 220 film made for more than a decade, apart from infrequent, short runs of 220 B&W by a Chinese company, the 220 backs are almost worthless. When you shop for a 120 back, test drive it with a roll of film on a real camera, as they are expensive now, and they are expensive to repair. In the US where is only one or two guys who can do those repairs. If you are bold and plan to DIY, there is a YT video on "how to service" a Koni back. That should put you off the idea.

Thanks!!! Very helpful! Mystery solved.

thank you!!

Used to shoot weddings. With this camera . De best

Thank you!😍

What's a good shutter speed for flash setting if you do not want use the mark setting. At 15 ft at 16.

I need this mic

I have an issue, I dont know if someone can help me with this: The issue is that my zoom h1n is not showing the menu to used as an interface when I connected it with any laptops. This is weird because before everything was working properly. Did someone have similar issues with this?

Thank you Sir, excellent video.

Big thanks! You just saved me a ton of time and frustration

Leverlers are great. RRS is a great USA company

Seeing a common site everyday, but through the eyes of a photographer is hard.

All that happens to me is that the H1n becomes a speaker. Edit: Oh I'll just plug my headphones into the H1n and it seems to be working. I did a test at mictest.

Yes, nice concise review of this interesting camera….. I have one coming, and will need to practice! Thanks!

Thanks you so much, i'll try soon 😉

Looking at comments, seems that this is not that much good product. I have seen some half-ball levelling bases on TH-cam. They may be easier than this one!

What a clear and concise explanation of basic camera settings for panoramas ( I would have forgotten about WB ) . Will be trying the Neewer tribrach soon - the manfrotto 338 seems much more stable but the adjustment "thumb" wheels are often too stiff to be useable ( I have just sent a secondhand one back ). There is an issue though and that is for other than setups where the mass centre is nearly over the centre of the leveller it can lean. Maybe the hald ball joint one is better or else try for another manfrotto Thanks again - great and engaging delivery - I have subscribed.

I know this is old, but just in case anyone needs it: direct audio has no latency because the interface routes the audio from the mic directly to the headphones. Without it, you have to listen to audio that goes from the mic, through USB, through the DAW and then to the computer output, which always has some lag (the echo-ie sound you refer 6min into the video). I have no experience using it, but I've been to live calls were I could hear myself with a delay and it really messes with your head. I also know that for recording artists, this might mean the final audio will be out of sync. Budget interfaces have a latency from 2ms to 7ms, but usually from 5ms upwards, it's already noticeable.

thanks, I've just bought a similar one, for this purpose and perfectly explained