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Thanks, glad to hear that someone found it useful :) Btw, unless you alrady have a fuel leak between the carbs, don't split them up, keep them as a 4 piece.

Impossible to say. Depends on your driving, bike, maintenance etc. But they should last a fair while, unless you pick an all aluminum rear sprocket.

I havn't noticed any water to be honest. Perhaps I screwed up the welding and created a blockage. Or I've just been using it in a way that hasent created enough condensate to show yet.

Absolut, men du ökar komplexiteten och sannolikheten för att du behöver spendera mer pengar för att få ihop ditt system. Tveksamt om det är värt det.

I should have been more clear. 100 W for 1,5 hours is enough to heat the mass of air inside the garage 5 degrees. It is not 50% of the total heat output. My best guess is: 100 W is a low estimate, only counts convection on the front side. There is also convection on the rear and radiation. So 200 W is probably more accurate. The heater itself is not 8kw or 5kw, they are not as powerful. Perhaps around 2kw or so. That would mean that the radiator adds +10% output.

Mainly for the looks. But I also had a thought that if my welding left any tiny pinholes, a thick brush-on paint might help seal. With more mass the heat from the radiator will be slightly delayed, but would in turn radiate heat for a longer time after shutdown. -The gains from this mod is not mind-blowing, if you're going to do it, use what you have available. Not worth spending money to optimize.

You're welcome!

It's very expensive isn't it?

Top to bortom is better if it gives the condensation a constant downward slope to the end of the exhaust.

Ye, I agree with you. Installed a CO alarm off camera.

Are you saying the exhaust in and out should be from the same side of radiator, exhausting from the top or bottom, thanks in advance

@ intake and exhaust should be from the outside and if you want to make that long S-style pipe, go from top to the bottom, this will significantly reduce a condensation. 32mm pipe is bare minimum for the pipe diameter.

Intake in or out makes little difference, theres no " negative pressure" ...pulls air in or pushes air out,its that little its of no consequence , fitted loads of these,inlet in or out, length of exhaust ( within reason) doesnt affect these basic not that accurate heaters , we have never ever seen a temp difference due to filter placement , only in a small well sealed camper van could it affect anything, not in shed,garages etc

​@@wainyoneuse the rad, a curved larger dia pipe dont work as good as a rad, tried both,

What motor were you using the EGR from? Do you have a part number?

And how many views would an electric heater generate on his channel?

Electric bill would literally skyrocket using an electric heater.

Thanks! I've used Mipa products before, I can get a hold of it :-) Do you know if it needs to be post-cured? - some of the areas on the radiator never gets warm.

Meh, most of the tools were used för convienience rather than neccissity :-) Sand battery can perhaps be nice for some applications. However, it would be counter-productive for me. I only want heating when I'm inside the garage, and then I want it a quick as possible.

@@speedandengineering I will be using it to help heat my damp basement. The sand battery is the most sound method for me. Thanks.

So you have a welder but can't buy rivet gun for 20 dollars? There is nothing crazy he used to build this, pretty basic stuff

@@maxsmith3193 HEY MAX , WHO ASKED YOUR OPINION ? I do have a rivet gun ,but I like the welder better!!

@@userChumMing I just hate when miserable ppl always complain about something

Thanks!

Probably would help alittle bit (y)

100 W was a low estimate, only counting convection from the front. There is also convection from the rear and radiant heating. If I had to guess, perhaps double, around 200 W. And yes, you are right, it isn't taking anyones breath away. But it is something. For someone who wants abit more performance and have the materials (not worth spending money on) it is an option.

I don't sleep in my garage and I had a CO-alarm installed off-camera.

Hehe nice! An intercooler is made for high gas flow as well, probably suits this application pretty well 👍

Ye, this is a valid opinion. 105 W is a low estimate. Only counting convection on the front side. Not counting radiation nor convection on the rear. If I had to guess, around 200 W. Roughly +10 % total power output.

Meh, most of the materials are offcuts from previous projects. But sure, would cost abit to buy all the materials since you would have to stick to standard lengths etc. Biggest cost-drivers were peripherals such as CO-alarm (off camera), 12 V power supply, T-duct in the tumbnail etc.

I hear you, this is a valid perspective, I was torn on how to look at it. Compounding over time 105 W is enough to heat 90 kg of air (weight of the air in the garage) 5 °C during 1.5 hours, length of the test. (Theory only) As much heat as a candle, sure; but it is also as much heat as a small radiator on steroids. 112 °C surface temp, normal radiator temps are like 60 °C-ish? 100 W is a low estimate, only counting convection on the front side. There is also convection of the rear, as well as radiant heating. At the end of the day, for someone running one of these and are lacking a bit of performance, its an option to get alittle bit more out of it.

Someone else in the comments is using än intercooler, even better! :)

@@speedandengineering right thats what im going to use

I think he should leave it like it is but possibly put the combustion intake outside so it matches the exhaust pipe also venting outside.

Intake is a good idea, I just don't have a good way of realizing it. Any suggestions? I rather not put the intake right next to the exhaust.

​@@speedandengineeringConsider what they do with "Monitor" heaters. They use a longer (and smaller) intake pipe within a larger exhause pipe. This heats the intake air slightly (and slightly cools the exhaust). I'll try to attach a photo. Same hole, no additional drilling.

@@speedandengineering if your talking about the combustion intake, sure. if you mean the air intake, i would keep that inside recirculating the air to get more heat from the heater. I've got one too heating our living room and the first year i had setup to heat cold air from the outside and let me tell you trying to heat -20 to -30 celsius is not cost effective, you have to run at a high setting for it to get some good heat resulting in high fuel consumption. i have now made it recirculating the air from inside and it is much better, setting 1 with altitude mode on which slows the pump more reducing fuel consumption. im not sure what OP is on about, to create negative pressure it would have to be pulling the air out of the room and that tiny combustion air intake is not gonna cause any negative pressure.

Small space , just the blowing air from the unit is enough.

I will look into this. Could be an easy fix, thanks! However, I did "prime" the water trap off camera with a syringe, so no fumes should be able to escape.

Nice! Would be a very good setup for even tempeature. But a battery on "both ends" would make the heating of the room very slow? :-)

Thanks alot. Hehe ye, you betcha'! 😁

Aah, you watching on a smart phone? Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep it in mind for upcoming videos 👍