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@@benjoseph260 LOL yeah I agree! This one belonged to a friend. He rolled it so he bought a YJ and started the body conversion. He got sick and passed away so I finished the jeep for his widow to sell.

@@hillbillyvilly7522 Very noble, good on you! Nice work!

I did drive it but the video I had from that got corrupted. (I'm obviously not a videographer). It drove out pretty well. The camper portion was really rough so I opted to sell the camper. The fella who bought it wanted to LS swap it instead so I pulled the diesel conversion out and stashed it away.

@@hillbillyvilly7522 that's cool you kept the engine! I just got a 76 Dodge jamboree about the same size as your RV and was wondering if the 617 could push it around? Was it strong enough to push it around without stressing it too much? Hills? I'm a wildland firefighter so this would be going to La grande Oregon from Arizona so lots of hills and would be different type of swap that most people don't do. Ok last question did you by chance get any MPG figures? Right now my RV got a 318 (5.2 V8) in it probably gets single digits MPG... Getting double would be nice.

Should be on my channel

This one has a hard cover. I added onboard water (6.5 gal), auxiliary fuel tank (5 gal) with a pump and filter and 12v lights. It operates as my camp kitchen and gear storage.

Maybe its a scored spot from the set screw or a tiny spot of rust? That may catch on the pulley as it slides over. The pulley is soft aluminum and may eventually slide off leaving a scratch on the inner bore. Please be careful when hitting metal pieces.

Thanks for the words of caution. I'll proceed carefully :)@@hillbillyvilly7522

There's a little tin tab on the arms base where it slides on over top the spline. Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently work the tab out ( open ). Then you can support the arm against the pull of the spring and wiggle the base off of the spline. If I get a chance I will make a short video of it

@@hillbillyvilly7522 Life saver, I appreciate it. I'll give it a shot and hopefully have success.

I drove it to prove it worked then I put the camper up for sale because I didn't really have an ise for it and the interior was really rough. The diesel moved the camper really well. The fella who bought it didn't want a diesel (he preferred a LS swap) so I pulled the engine and tranny out. Sold the tranny and set the engine and adaptors aside for another project some day.

You would have to get the ball joint press up in there and eyeball it. I have one and didn't use it... dont remember if it fit or not.

Buy the new a arms it’s a nightmare to press out all 6

Undo the nut that holds the wiper shaft. Push them inside the window. The linkage has a tiny spring clip to attach it near the motor. Then it's a wrestling match. Have to twist it around and slide the linkage out through the inspection hole (I think its roughly the middle). Dont force it but you will have to fiddle quite a bit with it

Check your stabilizer links and upper / lower ball joints. The only thing on a strut that can really clunk is the lower bushing (if it has one) or the top mount plate (bearing).

@@hillbillyvilly7522 will the bushing that the lower strut bolt goes through cause clunking? If it's not straight?

@@hillbillyvilly7522 okay. I got it figured out, I recently replaced my upper control arms due to torn bushings on both sides, checked them awhile ago and a bolt on each side were loose, don't know if I didn't tighten correctly or if the suspension settled and it loosened up.

Is there any thread visible? Maybe weld a nut with the correct threads in the jaws of some old vise grip pliers. Slice the nut in half with a zip wheel or hack saw and clamp it on the visible threads then spin the bolt out. Just a thought...its hard to say without looking at it.

We've been using it along with another one similar to it for quite a while now. Challenge is trying to get video of them being used and finding time to edit the media I currently have. It's in the works.

Yeah man it's a preference decision. This belonged to a friend who started the project and passed away. I finished it for his widow. I like the YJ dash too.👍

I've also got a video of my '73 jeep diesel conversion.

@@hillbillyvilly7522 I'd like to see it! I'm going to look for it on your page. I'll subscribe as well. By the way what state are you in? I could use help on 2 of my diesel swaps

Check Moog Suspension online.

They have it on the Moog site, but they call it a control arm bushing. look for the one that lists 'Position: Front lower at shock' in the description. You can also use the part number to search it at your favorite local parts store site, (autozone, o'reilly's, etc). I have found that you need to search for the number without putting in your vehicle make/model, otherwise it doesn't come up. Dodge must not want them selling this separately

Its a bit thicker an you may need to squeeze it or even trim a bit if I recall correctly. It was tight for sure tho and you'll have to drill the mounting screw holes and cut out the air passages.

Did you ever film a follow up video to this ?

The YJ heater box has slightly different controls and the defrost port is a little different. It may be a hassle to create a duct for the defrost but it could be done with enough cobbling if you just want to "make it work". Best of luck with your project.

@@hillbillyvilly7522 Thanks!

@@jsmith4294did you ever figure it out , I’m doing the same with mine

I laid it out on the plate steel and made the bell housing adapter. The thickness of the plate, protrusion of the crankshaft (end play in mind), recession of the torque converter in the bell housing with the needed room for the flex plate movement. All those added up to give me the required thickness of the crankshaft adapter. The crankshaft adapter was turned and drilled on an old lathe. The chevy bell housing layout is available on line and I had to measure the mercedes myself as I couldn't find a reliable version. I may do a short video on making an adapter set in the future. The transmission shift is controlled by vacuum and the kick down is by cable. I spent a while figuring the geometry for the kick down and the mercedes cars have autos in them so there is often a variable vacuum valve on the inj pump. It takes a lot of trial and error to make it work

@@hillbillyvilly7522 thanks for the explanation! Great project. Did you make an adapter for the GM to MB motor mounts or just cut out the GM mounts?

Morris4x4center has an excellent selection of parts for the older jeeps. I ended up replacing the knob / cable assemblies pretty reasonably. You'll just have to spend a little time staring at the replacement parts diagrams online. G

@@hillbillyvilly7522 Thank you but I don't want replacement parts. I'm looking for parts off an actual older jeeps. Junkyard?

Do you have the original wiring in it? There is an oblong hole in the top of the cowl under the windshield that aligns with a similar hole in the bottom of the windshield and seal. There should be a long bit of wiring attached to the motor which can reach the wiper switch. It can go above or below the steering column depending on how flexible you feel when you put it in. The plug doesn't have a catch on it so it comes off the back of the switch easily for windshield removal. That's also why the switch is so low on the dash board. I swapped mine over to a '77 harness some time back so that part is no longer the same to show you in a video but the routing is the same. I hope that helps.

@@hillbillyvilly7522 perfect thanks. I’ll look again tomorrow but I didn’t see a hole on the upper side of the dash that aligned with the one on the windshield. I may have to drill a hole but I’ll look again tomorrow. No wiring except that which came with the motor. I’ll have to rig something up. Thanks for the info!

I used a hole saw and zip wheel to cut the holes in the bottom of the frame. A dril bitl and zip wheel to make the defrost slots. The plastic ducting is different as well as the heater box, controls and latches. Its a lot of work and you really should have a CJ available nearby as a reference if you haven't done it before.