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That's FANTASTIC and great execution on your combined efforts. The world is a better place when people help each other out. Thanks for posting such a positive comment, CHEERS.

I haven't had any glue failure but it's been less than a year since I completed the project. The bulb lenses and three prongs are plastic but they minimally insert into what appears to be a three prong, tiny, metal cavity casing. Whatever glue you decide to use or epoxy mixture, make sure you don't get any of it on the center diode. In regards to centering the bulbs to diffuse the light properly, you simply do your best and hope it works. If you don't want to take that chance, you can purchase new light bulb strips and replace them. That's the part in the video that I only made a reference to (you still have to remove the locking mechanism on the last sheet and remove the sheet to gain access to the strips.. then remove the strips and replace with new ones). Good Luck.

@notyouraveragejoe855 when I opened mine up it went from 10 spots to maybe 10 left holding on. The trip to my shop made more fail. Not seeing a pattern in the clocking of the lens I thought it impossible to get them all correct. I've decided to sped 60 bucks and buy new light strips off ebay. I could use new standoffs as the ones were all brittle but can't find a supplier yet. One other question when install new light strips...I wonder if the strips are numbered and go in a specific order? The lights I found mention nothing I'm very concerned about the clocking if the lenses at this time I do not know if all the strips are identical or if the lens setups are unique...do you know this to be an issue? Thank u for your time. My motto is...I can never say I cant...I just haven't figured it out.. but it can always be done with perseverance. And desire...

I do not know the answer to your bulb strip question but I agree with replacing them rather than trying to center that many fallen lenses. I would take a picture of your current bulb strips while still positioned inside your TV. See if you can count how many bulbs are on each strip and what the gap distance is between the bulbs and total length of each strip. Then compare those results with the new bulb strips. Also, the old strips may have some sort of indicator markings on them in regards to the alignment placing. If that doesn't work and you've tried looking up schematic information, perhaps it's best to have a professional repair it. Good luck and Great Motto!

@notyouraveragejoe855 hell no. If I can't ill lean it toit until I can. Lol

Thanks Coop but just remember what I said in the beginning, you must be willing to sacrifice your TV if it doesn't work out. I don't guarantee success but I was willing to try it because my problem didn't involve repairing the circuit boards, electrical components or the ribbon strips. Before you get started, if you can tilt your TV side to side and hear parts sliding around, that's a probable indication that the bulbs have fallen off and perhaps hopefully, the only reason for the white spot lighting. Regardless, you will learn plenty along the way. I wish you success, cheers.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 No worries Joe. Prices were low enough that I bought a new one. If i get this one working again, I will give it to someone who needs it. I can see that these things are very labor intensive to fix. Thus the reason for the high cost of repair.-Coop

I wish you well on your TV repair.

Haha... I hear you and it was a gamble but one I was willing to try.

Thank you for the positive comment Adam.

Thank you.

Hi Isabelle, here's a tip to consider. Practice on some old screen mesh first to familiarize yourself with the paint, the brush stroke coverage and the process before you start your project. If your paint brand selection is too thick and clumps the mesh easily, you may have to thin it out first. The paint that I chose did not need to be thinned out before applying. It had the right consistency. Good Luck.

Hi Caroline. By container, did you mean the black paint? I recall completing about 10-13 screens of different sizes in total. Some were tiny bathroom screens, a sliding door screen and the rest were different sized window screens. For screens that were not in good condition, I replaced them with brand new screen mesh.

Which part would you like explained in simpler terms?

I too realized after disassembling the parts, just how fragile so many of them are. In regards to my screen and working solo, I was very concerned about using suction cups (which is how I saw other videos doing it with smaller screens or they had an assistant) when moving it which is why I used the heavy duty cardboard under it for better weight distribution and support. Still, when you reattach the outer black frame bezel over it, you can crack the screen clipping it in even if you are careful. In regards to the lens placement, that's another roll of the dice when you put it all back together and turn it back on... how well did you center it and does it diffuse light properly? Well, you gave it a shot but also learned something in the process. Thanks for commenting.

Hey Jimmy, I hope it can help you out and thank you for the comment.

Accidents do happen right? Here's the good news. Although currently it will be a set back both physically and mentally, today's good doctors can get you back on the road to recovery but don't forget to do the "work/rehab" and be patient in the process. I wish you well on your recovery and eventually returning to the sport of which you teach.

Like you, I went looking for details regarding my injury so that I could have a better understanding as to what happened and gain a better perspective on what is to come; thus, I put together the videos to help others out. I'm glad you're finding them worthwhile.

Thank you for the compliment on repairing my TV video but I am not a professional repairman. Your description of symptoms to your problem with the recent used TV purchase is quite different than mine and thus, I don't think my solution will work for you. You might research the internet for troubleshooting your make and model TV symptoms or look up on TH-cam if anyone else has posted similar videos on "shadows and folds" as you called it. I've seen videos about dark shadows on one half of screen posted. Also, see if you can find the manual on-line, if it didn't come with your purchase, and then look for the troubleshooting chapters that describes your symptoms. You might find out that it's fixable through "settings," "picture settings/modes," or "screen adjustments" or updated plug in wiring (say from a coaxial to HDMI). If it's an LCD screen, pixilation burn out, software, or something more involved where you're going to have to replace and buy new parts, my video "might be helpful" to guide you on getting to the part, BUT perhaps a better option would be to take it to a certified technician and have them troubleshoot your problem, then get a receipt with a warranty for the repair. Sorry I could not be of more help, I hope you find a solution.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 thank you again, Sir. and may God bless you.

I hope it helped you out.

Hi Thomas. I appreciate the comment and sharing your experience while providing viewers alternative options to the application of accomplishing the task.

My freshwater fishing adventures and the visuals they provide are what ground me to nature and recharge my battery. They're a welcome relief from the everyday fast pace grind of city life.

Hi Bill, I'm no professional on this subject but here's my interpretation from what I read up on trying to bond new mortar to old mortar. If you mix the bonding agent with the new mortar, that's going to make the new mortar bond more so to itself and mortar mix already contains bonding additives. If I apply the bonding agent to the old, dampened mortar surface first and then apply the new mortar mix over it, as I did in the video, that is supposed to help bond the two mortars together. This project was completed 3 years ago and it still looks great but that doesn't mean the other way doesn't work. I'm just not knowledgeable enough on the subject to know the bonding strength differences or durability. Now, there is such a thing called a "slurry" by which you add a bonding agent to Portland cement with water and mix and then, use the "slurry" as the bonding layer between old concrete and new concrete... but that process would not be necessary for brick work. Ideally, you would grind out all of the old mortar and replace with new mortar but I just didn't want to do that. I'll see how many years I get out of it but so far, it's as good and solid as the day I completed it. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks, I'll take that as a compliment. Even I have referred to my overall approach to fishing as a form of fish hunting.

Hope your project goes well.

7'-4" ... so with your hand position and extended arm, I can get about an 8ft. extension if needed. I used PVC pipe to place a standard long net handle into and drilled holes on both items, then used bolts and screws to secure it. The extension net has come in handy on numerous catches from saltwater rocks or freshwater fishing from steep banks.

Hey Kent, this project was performed almost 4 years ago and it still looks as good as the day I did it, albeit the color is now more dull grey; however, you do bring up some valid points with using Quikrete's liquid product. It may not be the best choice available but it's still an option to consider. In my earlier trials of this product on some other projects, I did experience hairline cracking or peeling away within a year or two but I wonder as to what was the cause. Here are my thoughts: 1) when you shake the product in the bottle, perhaps air bubbles get in the mix and when you immediately pour, the bubbles will eventually come to the surface and cause the unsettling, shrinkage or cracking.?. Solution: don't vigorously shake the mix or let the bottle sit for a few minutes before pouring. You can also tap the bottom of the bottle to try to make the bubble rise up and pop before you pour. 2) if the land under the patch crack area shifts or moves, that too can cause cracks and separation because this product is not strong enough to hold the patch work together. 3) if there is leakage of the product behind a "backer rod" or the soil below gives way to the mix, there will be shrinkage and you may have to spot re-pour to even things out. 4) if the patch area has high traffic, a car moves over it, or it's in direct sunlight and goes through greater temperature changes (expansion/shrinkage due to temperature), then it will be more prone to failing. 5) this product is not pliable, you just pour it into place. That can be an issue if you're trying "to top it off" level with the opposing slabs of concrete. Final note: After working with liquid Quikrete several times and learning some of the particular nuances of it, this video was one of my best performances of the product; however, if I had to do it all over again, I would still do all of the prep work but I would use Rapid Set Cement All in the blue box instead. If you have another option to share, please do, thanks.

With that many bulbs off and or loose, I'm surprised you didn't have permanent white spots but I agree with your approach to replacing the entire strips vs trying to glue that many back on correctly. Hopefully, that's the only issue you have on a ten year old TV and the low cost fix works. Good Luck.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 Thanks - I guess I won't know about permanent white spots until everything is reassembled and turned on in the moment of truth... For what it's worth, the glass and sheets seem fine, and if I'm replacing the entire strips, LEDs and lenses all, I'm optimistic there's nothing else that could have been damaged that I'll be stuck with. My reassembly skill worry me the most. I didn't start writing down notes until about half way through. Thanks again for the great video.

You stated that about 10 lenses were already off when you opened up your TV; yet, you only had white spots once a month. That surprises me that you didn't have 10 white spots glowing whenever you turned it on. I start to wonder if there's any other issues at cause (pixel deterioration?) but I still like your approach. Let me know how it turns out, cheers Daniel.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 I misspoke - they're definitely on all the time when the TV is on. It's been one new white spot appearing each month as they started falling off about once a month until I couldn't take it any more and started researching.

If this is a new task for you, I'd suggest practicing with a small amount of mixture first and using the tools and materials on a useless area just to familiarize yourself with the "process" before beginning your actual pointing project. You will gain valuable insight as to how fast the mix dries, how to spritz to postpone the drying time, how to work the material into position and how to have all of your "gear" ready, including clean up, before starting. Good luck on your project.

I had to go back and double check this video on the comical statement. I don't recall saying that but the 15" smallmouth bass was a new record for me. The 2 largemouth bass in this video were similar in size to the 2 smaller smallmouth bass.

Hi Barbara, yes, the "elbow grease" and "solution" gets the job done (for small jobs... it would be quite laborious for bigger jobs) but here's something else to consider. You mentioned your mortar is missing or cracked/brittle and thus, it's more permeable (mine was in good shape). All of that "solution, mold and rinsing off" will get distributed throughout your brick joints more so because your mortar isn't in good condition which may lead to a further weakening of your brick steps eventually. Regardless, they will be cleaned :) and look better. If your curious, here's a link to my DIY mortar repair when greenbacks are slim. If you go to my channel, I have a few videos on mold cleaning and DIY brick mortar repair. Good luck on your project. th-cam.com/video/6FufO9tDq9w/w-d-xo.html

@@notyouraveragejoe855 I just checked out your suggested video on mortar repair. You are very thorough! We had someone come out years ago to fix this issue and it was a hot mess. Sloppy work. We have 3 sets of brick steps and they all need repairing. My better half gets frustrated with tedious projects so this one will be mine, I guess. Thank you for another great video. Again, you get right to the point! Much appreciated!

My fingers are crossed for you Barbara, cheers.

It is wise to know your own limits. Either take it to a repair shop for a quote or shop for a new TV. In the beginning of my video, I emphasized that I am not a professional and you must be willing to sacrifice your TV (meaning toss it, if things don't work out) trying to accomplish the low cost fix. Although the fix is not expensive, there's high risk in attempting the repair yourself and yes, there's plenty to "mess up" along the way. Since the solution did not involve electronics, circuit boards, soldering, or wiring, and I'm handy with tools and good at record keeping, I figured I would attempt it. I studied multiple videos regarding a solution but found many to be lacking in specific close up and take apart details; thus, I created my own video. I wish I could be of more help to people but thanks for stopping by and posting positively.

Iv got no tv experience but I can work a screwdriver 😅. My tv was slightly different to this one but I did it. I snapped a couple of clips and broke the out frame cos I never saw the screws but I still managed to take it apart and reassemble with this guys instructions. Like he said if it's broken anyway and your willing to try it give a go 👍👍

Well, despite the couple of "hits" you took from a different "opponent," I'm happy to hear that you still won the battle, cheers.

Thanks 👍

I have the same thing to do and have done before...just brushing up...I never cleaned my bricks before...makes sense...

Since I only had one brick to replace and I was reusing the old one, I wanted to ensure the best bonding potential. I'm not familiar with what masonry professionals do when working with scores of brick at a time but they may opt for some type of cleaning method (air pressure while wearing a mask?, water pressure?) to remove the brick and or mortar dust from the surface. Good luck on your project Ken, I hope it goes well and thanks for stopping by.

I wish I did so I could further assist you but I don't. Like you referenced, something wasn't done right but what? You may want to check that all circuit boards are fully clipped in, not hanging and are not bent or pinched anywhere. Are the two wide ribbon tapes fully inserted up to the dotted line and clicked in? You may want to double check your notes and compare to the video again and see if you missed anything, replaced out of order or something wasn't properly aligned or fully clipped in. If you find the solution, let me know... good luck.

It took a year to fully recover and "trust" my progress. I could do activities of daily living (walking, bending, stretching, going up and down stairs) rather quickly, within a few months, but getting back to lifting heavy weights (squatting, calf raises, deadlifts) and sport movements (like running, cutting, and jumping) can take longer to achieve. Plus, you'll have a mental challenge as well to overcome in regards to regaining confidence in the healed tissue.

It was a fun day of fishing.

It's referenced in this video link about 52 seconds in: th-cam.com/video/-hsa6sPaRog/w-d-xo.html I used a 2 hook, 3 way swivel, split shot rig that covers about 3.5-4ft in length. Water/Swell conditions need to be calm to relatively calm or else your rig will be fouled and tossed all over the place. The rig keeps bait on the bottom, yet has a light effect for the "fish take" due to only 1 large split shot. A Carolina rig works great too.

Hi Ann, I'm no expert but here are two links you can refer to: www.merrymaids.com/cleaning-tips/diy/a-guide-to-cleaning-mold-with-vinegar/ and www.medicinenet.com/is_bleach_or_vinegar_better_to_kill_mold/article.htm DO NOT COMBINE vinegar (an acid) WITH chlorine bleach (alkaline/base) = TOXIC / DANGEROUS. I had a photo, late in the video, referencing different scrub brushes but vinegar was in the photo along with TSP and bleach BUT I NEVER used the vinegar. Vinegar can be used by itself but it may not be strong enough to do the job. It's commonly used for in house and table counter applications. Your application and products used may depend on whether your inside your home or outside, the surface the product is being applied to and how advanced your mold situation is. If it's bad, call a professional.

Great execution on your part Steve, glad it all worked out and I could be your guide.

Thanks for stopping by and taking a look.

Here are my thoughts: #1. If the lens itself is cracked or burnt, light won't diffuse properly... If the tape left any adhesive residue on the reflector sheet, light may bounce off of it oddly... if the glue spilled over onto the reflector sheet, when dry it hardens and or crystallizes, that too may deflect light oddly... if the lens bulb is off center, light doesn't diffuse properly... if glue covered the LED, that's a problem... if glue got on the bulb lens rather than just the peg ends, light may bounce off of it oddly... not sure if the glue you used was a problem... considering you had that many, there may be indications that other systems are beginning to fail as well (I've heard of pixel failure which doesn't display light and color correctly) and yes, I too wasn't fond of the lens design mechanism either. There was too much leeway for misalignment. #2. the cheapest approach to solving the problem is to re-glue the fallen lenses BUT even that has inherent risk because how many of us have had practice taking apart TV's, right? #3. The low cost DIY approach would be to replace the "entire bulb strips" after you've ordered the new sets. After you found that many (21) loose bulbs, the probability of getting them all on correctly was doubtful for ALL of the reasons you listed being suspicious AND there's obviously a looming problem anyway with the failing glue on the remaining lenses. I had a reference in my description to a business that sells replacement strips. This too though has risks because you still need to take apart and reassemble the TV correctly without breaking anything else in the process. #4. You take it to a professional repair shop and have them do it. (Which they will do exactly what #3 is, in addition to running other troubleshooting diagnostics but at least their work is guaranteed); however, nowadays, the labor, parts and repair cost MAY BE close the cost of a new TV anyway. Which leads us to #5. people chuck it and buy a new TV! #6. When I made this video, I had no idea this many people were experiencing the same problem. SAMSUNG or any other brand should take note of this common problem and correct it or is it just a matter of systems and parts eventual breakdown? The consumer wants quality and durability. #7. I agree with the lenses being difficult to properly center. Although I had 3 lens pegs to fit into 3 peg holes, there was no locking or snapping into place mechanism or solid fit when I put them back into place. Basically, a judgement call and keeping your fingers crossed. As I mentioned at the end of my video, if I were to do it all over again, I would go the extra steps and buy the replacement bulb strips. YOU may still want to consider that as an option and replace the entire backlight strips but then again, if you've had your TV for some time, other systems might be starting to fail. You certainly know how to take the TV apart now. The extra steps I only referenced in my video, (other videos may show it all), where you release the locking mechanism, remove the last white reflector sheet and gain access to the bulb strips. They can all be removed somehow and then replaced. #8. You certainly sound like you did your diligence, sorry to hear of your results. Thank you for reaching out and being very cordial in commenting.

Hi Nicholas, sorry to hear that but don't give up hope just yet. Let's say no other problem existed and no damage was done during the repair and you carefully handled the circuit boards, fully inserted the ribbons and properly reconnected "everything" back together. There's still a host of potential other issues that it could be. Since I am not a professional, I will refer you to this link: ( www.tcl.com/global/en/blog/solutions-for-tv-screen-that-looks-darker-than-usual ). It's just one link of many that you'll need to do some research on but perhaps all you need to do is troubleshoot your settings/modes and adjust them accordingly, (other than brightness because that would have been too easy, right?). Since the TV was unplugged and taken apart, altered settings/modes may have occurred. I wish I could help you more but I did say in the beginning, you must be willing to sacrifice your TV. If anyone else is reading this comment and knows the answer, please reply. Give me an update Nicholas, if you find the remedy and good luck.

@notyouraveragejoe855 I had just forgot to plug one of the boards in. It was tucked under it but not actually connected. It's up and running great now!

Fantastic, glad it worked out and good job on double checking your work and finding the missed connection.

I hope the video helps you out, good luck.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 I truly appreciate this video. This will be a great project for me to get started on. Thank you once again 🙏🏾

Hi Vili Ivanova @Lilo8363, yes, feel free to ask me questions and click on my icon to go directly to my channel/subscribe. There, you can access my playlist directly on this ankle surgery and watch my chronological recovery. I see that you contacted me on a different video as well but that other video does not pertain to this subject matter; so, I'll keep correspondence relevant to only this chat reply. Regarding question #1: How long did it take to recover? = 1yr. That doesn't mean you won't be able to do things earlier, such as activities of daily living, as you progress through recovery and treatment but I wanted to get back to performance. I worked in the fitness industry and competed as well; so, my expectations and demands were more so than usual. Your situation may be different considering you've been already dealing with this for 7 years prior to surgery. There's a lot of tissue and bone adaptation (let alone if pain has altered your gait) that can occur in 7 years. ?#2: How does it feel now? Within 2 years post surgery, I had a full recovery with no limitations. ?#3: What sensations did I feel during recovery? The first 48 hours after surgery were agonizing as my nervous system was coming back on line, firing signals non stop after coming off of the anesthesia. The first 2-4 months, you may be in several protective, immovable fiberglass casts. Odd sensations or winces of pain may occur. They lessen with time. Since I was in 4 casts for several months, I lost a lot of muscle tissue. If you don't use it, you'll lose it and that was depressing! After that, you progress to a walking boot and then start physical therapy. It's a long journey but I'll do my best to answer your questions. You stated "reefing the retinaculum"... the retinaculum is a thick band of fascia or connective tissue that wraps over and around, secures in place and stabilizes the peroneal tendons. Does that mean they tightened it or tried to anchor and secure it in some fashion?

@@notyouraveragejoe855 thank you very much for the info!!! The first five years were overall not too bad (the tendon only popped out from time to time) so I still walked normally and did sports just had to limit myself (which of course I did not want to do but I did not know at the time there’s a surgery and also what exactly was my issue). Two years ago I got bad inflammation which never resolved and my ankle just got bad…Over all these years I kept going to doctors but…they all dismissed me saying it’s in my head or the issue isn’t too bad (because it was intrasheath subluxation and very subtle). I went to over 10+ before I finally found one in Austria who knew what was the issue and also wanted to do surgery on me to get me my life back and be able to do sports normally again. I really wish someone had diagnosed me when I was still 17 (when the injury happened) and they had offered me the surgery then. I would’ve immediately done it. Based on what you shared, I think my timeline is slightly different to yours. I was in a cast for 2 weeks and then I put a walking boot on for a month and now I’m slowly trying to transition to a brace. So I’m not in a cast anymore. And then as far as I understood from the doctor my retinaculum was simply stretched out so he tightened it which he referred to as ‘reefing’ which I know did involve an anchor to my bone. And then only one of my tendons had a rupture, not both like you. In that sense I felt like your issue was much worse and yet you managed to do crazy stuff in your video which inspired me. And yes, I am worried as I keep getting some weird feelings (not as much pain) right behind my ankle. It’s as if there’s something there….

I do appreciate a lot you sharing more info with me!!! Thank you!!!

Your particular injury sounds like it was hidden in comparison to typical peroneal ruptures due to the retinaculum staying intact. You might find this article interesting, copy and paste between the brackets and into your search browser and then click enter: [ air.unimi.it/retrieve/dfa8b9a3-f0e0-748b-e053-3a05fe0a3a96/Draghi_et_al-2018Journal_(of_Ultrasound_in_Medicine.pdf ]. I can also understand why you were in a boot much faster than I was because there was far less injured tissue involved. That odd feeling you may be experiencing could be due to the suturing material for the split tendon because it may be rubbing up against your fascia, tendons, retinaculum or other sensitive tissue. Just make a note of it and communicate that with your surgeon, doctor or health care team. It may lessen in time. You may also experience a "tightness" feeling around your ankle that with time, therapy and movement/mobility exercises will eventually improve.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 Yes, it’s true. I do also have a feeling of tightness as you described. I will make sure to communicate this all. And will check out the article!

Was this problem straight out of the box or did it develop in time? Have you tried trimming without cutting anything AND does the line still break off? You mentioned the line breaks off at the head grommet, not after; which leads us to the grommet itself, the spool, the line and types, the cap and the inside housing. 1) I would have suggested cleaning and or replacing the head grommet if it was worn or sharp but you said you checked it and filed it smooth (the filing itself can create micro abrasions in the metal but you already had the problem prior to filing, so I'll move on. Try dabbing some oil or lubricant on the grommet eyelet. If that delays the breakage, perhaps you do need a new grommet. 2) Check your plastic spool for any rough spots (smooth out or replace spool).. 3) check the spool housing unit (it's what the lined spool fits inside) for any rough areas.. clean out and smooth).. 4) Does your cap fit tightly over the spool? If the cap fits loosely or has any rough edges or tabs and the spool vibrates inside, perhaps the line is coming in contact with it and breaking? If so, replace cap. 5) When you insert the spool and thread the line into the eyelet grommet from the inside of the housing, make sure the line doesn't get caught underneath the spool.. 6) Are you wrapping the line on in the correct direction AND NOT crisscrossing the line when you wrap it on? As the spool spins/rotates when working, this can put too much stress on and tighten the overlapped line and snap it. You want to reline the spool similar to adding line on a conventional fishing reel or you can buy prefilled spools to eliminate this potential issue. Stringing the line on in the wrong direction will also be a problem, follow the arrow direction. 7) Did you insert the spool into the housing correctly? If it can only go on one way, that eliminates that issue but if it's in upside down, that's a problem. 8) OTHER IDEAS to consider: Does this breakage occur at the lower or higher speeds or both? What are you trying to cut? Perhaps a stronger material line is needed. Are you trying to cut too aggressively? Try cutting less material at a time. Finally, if none of that works, I would take it to a professional lawn & garden repair shop and ask them. Here's an article you may find interesting, scroll down about 1/3-1/2 way down to get to line problems... I'm no pro but I hope you find a solution. brushdestructor.com/brushdestructor-home-page/4-0-knowledge-page/4-2-questions-answers/4-2-3-q-a-about-brush-cutting/4-2-3-1-q-a-why-does-my-brush-cutter-line-keep-breaking/

I wish you well on your project.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 Thank you, i tried it yesterday. All went well just up until the reassembly of the bezel. Apparently the screen was too close or too tight in a corner that when i clicked on the bezel, the screen broke in that corner. But, i think that the "suns" have burned into the screen because some of them were still visible afterwards. It was my parents TV and they've already bought a new one. They 've been watching for years on that TV and didn't see those 10 "suns" anymore. But, my pain was real, it was just a last try to fix the TV and my daughter hoped i could salvage the TV for her. But, thanks again! without the crack it would have been a succesfull fix. Is it possible the "suns" burned the screen?

Sorry to hear of that result. I even mentioned that particular concern at 15:21 when trying to replace the frame bezel over the screen... but, things happen right? It's not like any of us are TV repair professionals with years of experience. Another possibility is that if you don't properly center the re-glued bulb lens or you get glue on the center diode, it may not diffuse light correctly and thus, you still have a sun halo effect. The fact that you had 10 to get right is quite a chore over just 1 or 2. In regards to "burn in, screen burn, image burn," or as you called it "suns" being burned into the screen, (I'm no professional but) yes, I do believe there can be an appearance of that but it may not technically be that. It may be due to certain parts wearing out or no longer functioning properly and thus, gives off the appearance of a "burned" image. If that's the case, I don't think you can do anything about it. This topic is beyond my knowledge but I think it deals with degeneration of the pixels, the types of bulbs used or LED's, the LCD screen, and how light is generated and for how long. 1) If the bulbs had fallen off and your parents continued to watch the TV, the concentrated light source is no longer being diffused properly and could result in the "burn" image. 2) Although I've read that LED (light emitting diodes) apparently use less power and produce less heat than earlier model TV's, screens and bulb-light types, I've seen backlighting TV videos on TH-cam that have caught on fire. Is it due to excessive heat or an electrical issue or other? If it's not heat, then WHY are so many people experiencing fallen lenses from failed glue? Is it the type of bright light that wears down the glue, like sunlight destroys plastics? 3) Having a still screen or logo image on for hours (pausing a video game or screen saver for example) may lead to pixel degradation and thus, the "burn" image. And finally, to my limited knowledge... 4) Because these new TV's produce such amazing colors and bright lights, you probably want to adjust the brightness level way down. Having a bright TV on all day, day after day, let alone if it's in a warm/humid environment, seems to not only degrade the glue faster but also possibly fries the pixels and produces that burned looking image. Thank you for being cordial with your update, too bad it didn't work out and congratulations to Belgium for winning 10 medals (cycling, athletics, and fighting) during the 2024 Olympics.

Thanks for stopping by.

Another similar name or at least in purpose to a bibcock is the spigot, spout, faucet, valve, water outlet housing, etc... it's the mechanism attached to the end of the water pipe. The primary function of a bib-cock is to regulate the flow of water. With a simple turn of the handle or lever, you can control the water force and flow capacity. In regards to my video, the spigot or bibcock has a "male" end, that's where the water flows out from the pipe. The "female" end of the hose (what I repaired in the video and show on my thumbnail) is what fits over and attaches to the bibcock. I hope that clarifies your question, good luck on your repair.

I'm not a professional and spray painting is an option but there are a number of reasons to consider why not and any restorative approach other than replacing your worn screen mesh with brand NEW screen mesh material has its pros and cons to application and success. I have a how to video on removing and replacing screen mesh as well ( th-cam.com/video/yYv6cpeKs5E/w-d-xo.html ) if you're interested. 1. Spray painting is certainly faster (you still need to do prep work) but by itself may not stick well to the bare, worn, metal mesh fibers; thus, resulting in chipping, peeling or flaking off rather soon thereafter. Some spray paint canisters however, are paint and primer in one. 2. Spray painting does not usually provide as long of a protective finish as brushed-on paint. 3. There are some professionals who will spray paint your screens BUT, they typically paint your frame as well because they don't want to take the extra time to properly tape it off. 4. Spray paint is very thin, so you'll most likely need to apply 2-3+ coats. This process may be prone to clumping. 5. There are videos out there that do spray painting, but I wanted to demonstrate a different method, hand painting. 6. For those who are artistic and wish to hand paint something on their screens, they may learn something from watching my video.

@@notyouraveragejoe855 Gotchya! Thanks for the reply.

Yes, there is that risk, lol, among others including did you put the TV back together properly without breaking anything else in the process? Although no guarantee, you can work around the glue issue by taking the extra removal steps and purchasing the entire line of replacement "bulb strip" sets, but as you alluded to earlier, know thy own luck and limitations. Take care and thanks for stopping by.

I hear you on only doing it once; hopefully, a professional TV repair specialist can reply. Ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA) is the primary active ingredient in most superglues but you do want to look for an adhesive that can bond plastic to metal and withstand heat. The lens is hard plastic and the 3 plastic prongs are glued to some sort of metal but it's not a snap in fit. You also have to center the lens and make sure no glue covers the center light diode; otherwise, the repair may not work. You can bypass all of the glue concerns by taking the extra removal steps (only mentioned in the video) and buying / replacing the entire bulb strips that come preglued. I referenced a contact in my description. Sadly, I was amazed at how often this problem of fallen lenses is occurring on TV's. I wish you well on your project, thanks for stopping by.

There are other options but Ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA) is the primary active ingredient in most superglues. Loctite also makes extreme epoxy for bonding plastic (the deflector lens with 3 prongs is hard plastic) to metal (the 3 prongs go over some sort of metal but it's not like they snap in or click in, poor design?). Thus, they are glued on but you also must get the lens centered just right without getting any glue on the center light diode; otherwise, the repair may not work. I chose the Loctite super glue gel because of the easy squeeze applicator for precise control. Whatever brand you have available to you, be sure to check if it bonds most plastics to metal and that it can withstand heat. If that's too concerning or complicated, you can tale the extra steps (that I only referenced in the video) and order / replace the entire bulb strips. I put a link in my description that I found as a contact source for such parts.