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it acts as a pot cover , it is also possible to put a tarpaulin inside, so that the wood does not rot too quickly in contact with the soil

Hi you're welcome In my opinion your problem comes from a safety device which is engaged, it seems to me that it is the one at the red button (at 7min in the video) on the plastic cover (chip evacuation) I tried it myself and that was the only thing that caused the machine not to work. Don't hesitate to give me feedback to find out if it helped you or if it came from something else, maybe it could help other people

yes I know that I don't show the best example in this video, not being in the profession I learn as I go, thank you for your advice

No the first rule is which is the hammer and which is the nail.

You're welcome, yes it is the original blade, but I quickly changed it to be able to make high cuts, the original blade deviates when you want to make cuts on thick wood.

you are right I forgot to show the lower adjustment, in itself it is not difficult there is only an adjustment screw, I noticed that it is often the paint which poses a problem in the elements which are centered slide, as for the quality I mentioned it in other comments, in itself the saw works well once adjusted but it is true that on certain points the quality needs to be reviewed, but you have to keep in mind that it remains an amateur machine, if you want something better designed the price will also be much higher

Yes sometimes the instructions are not very well explained, glad to see that you found the problem

the planner has 2 safety devices, there is the lever at the exit table, and there is one below , you must put the chip evacuation cover on, you must be careful ensure that it is securely in place and that the planer table presses the cover against this safety (it's a bit complicated to explain in writing) I hope I could help you

I was able to see this problem on another band saw (the same model) there were the 2 screws at the top and bottom of the handle which is used to raise and lower the guide which were not tightened, by tightening them there was less play, I advise against unscrewing them because there are washers which are annoying to put back, it seems to me that it comes from the washers and the paint that the guide tends to block at times, I could improve the sliding with a little oil and by playing with the button (up and down) I admit this system is not well designed hope this will help you

@@js_workshop thank you for the reply. They were both fairly tight so unfortunately not an easy win I think. I'll try and get a bit more access to see what's going on in there (thanks for the tip on the washer!). I had expected better from a saw of this price point and have been impressed with other metabo tools I have owned

@@TheJSV650 you are welcome, It's a good machine but it's true that it has some flaws that cast doubt on the quality. personally I have a mixed opinion on this brand, don't hesitate to leave a comment if you find the solution to the problem, maybe it can help other people in the same case, I'm looking to see if I can find other solutions, but to limit the play I don't really see how to do it

You're welcome 🙂

You're welcome

if your cut deviates it can come from the blade, it depends on the thickness you want to cut, I had this problem with the original blade and wood more than 70mm thick, so I changed the blade, currently I use a 2240x16x0.5x4 blade to cut 160mm thick, and I have no problem, I hope this will help you

I have the same problem @@js_workshop

I use ash wood, I know a lot of people don't like this way of cutting, sorry if it's disturbing

@@js_workshopno its fine lol.. i'm sure it makes the cut cleaner it just threw me off 🤣

You're welcome

honestly I cut wood that is about 170mm high and I have no problem, the blade does not slow down, I don't know why they put a 400v motor, even the competition only has the 230v version, i'm totally satisfied with the WNB you just need to have the right blades

@@js_workshop exactly as you say ... today I bought time to play :D

empty it's around 75db , when I cut it's 80-85dB, it's a relatively quiet machine

@@js_workshop Thanks for your detailed reply, this is very important for me to know before buying

@@user-pb7eh4lz9c you are welcome, yes I understand, it would be a shame to buy it and not be able to use it as desired

Bonjour, oui je sais que porter des gants en utilisant des machines augmente les risques de blessures graves, c'est pour cette raison que je n'en porte jamais, merci pour votre bienveillance 👍

Hi. thank you. for high cuts (170mm) I use a 2240x16x0.5 blade , but a 2240x15x0.5 should also work

yes, I'm satisfied with it, even if it has a few minor flaws (the original blade isn't necessarily the best for my use, the table extension is a bit cheap, etc.) I'm quite picky about the quality but in the end it does what it should do (perfectly straight cuts with the right blade)

Hey. Basically there is a small resistance in the knob, the only three things that seem to me to be able to cause the guide to block are: - the guide is a little askew at the top of the frame (when inserting it into the frame it's better to hold it on the other side of the knob to be parallel) that's the only problem i had - the locking lever which is not completely open - and in the worst case a surface of the guide/frame has taken a hit or is slightly deformed I hope I was able to help you, don't hesitate to ask me other questions if I can help, let me know if you have found where your problem comes from and if you have found a solution, it can help other people

yes there is a ball bearing at the back of the blade on the lower blade guide

1: for the vibrations I had also had the case, I had to move the machine because the ground was not straight and that solved the problem, there is also an adjustable foot (black part under the foot) which can also help 2: for the cutting problem if I understood correctly you have a mismatch in the height if so there is an adjustment screw on the top of the table I had made another video on all the settings th-cam.com/video/59HvgoFOEIc/w-d-xo.html I hope I have answered your questions if you have any other questions, do not hesitate to ask me

@@js_workshop hello again, thank you for taking care of me, I think the vibration can be solved, the important thing for me is the shear curvature, the shear curvature is not related to height, it's a horizontal curvature.

@@emrekalkan9934 I know if it's the blade that deflects, maybe it's not in the middle of the flywheels or the tension isn't right or maybe it's the blade itself (each blade has its function example to cut in the height of a board it is better to have a wider or even thicker blade) some people make high cuts without a guide to avoid deviating too much

yes unfortunately we don't find all the machines in the whole world, or it's difficult to get them

I paid around 130€

I haven't decided yet...black or yellow 🤔

@adrianazuaje2892 can't lose the yellow one but the black matches more gear

it's a "universal" plate, unfortunately it's not intended for all routers, in my case it's not intended for the TRA001, this is the reason why I had to adapt the plate

Hello, are you talking about settings like the outfeed table (black hex screws)? if so, as you can see at 3:04 in the video the infeed table slides, and there is no way to adjust it to level, you have to adapt the outfeed table in relation to the infeed table to be perfectly flat, I hope I have answered your question

@@js_workshop yes, that’s my question. I’ve passed en few hours on it this morning and I can’t put the enter table perfectly like the outfeed table in the right and in the left…

@@nicolasbelloy4538 I put the enter table on 0 and I adjusted the outfeed table based on the enter table with the help of a level or a very straight slat, then I did the adjustment of the blades, and finally the guide