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Does TH-cam offer a Spanish-to-English translator? 🤨

What scanner are you using?

QR25DE, wiki says it uses the same engine but I am pretty sure that the Nissan Altima has like zero room and needs intake to be removed in order to access the injectors.

25,000 to 34,000 rpm??? you know that's out range of engines rpm, right? You probably meant 25 hundred to 34 hundred

Where the symptoms hesitating at start up?

do you count cylinders (coils) 1-4 from left to right?????

That's a great tip using vise grips on a 21mm socket

Man you mechanics over use the hell out of those impact guns. These civics have literal torque specs for engine related bolts. You threw that spark plug cylinder in there and just impacted the living hell out of it into the engine block.. lol this is exactly why i do all my own car work. I cant even remember the last time i brought my car to the mechanic. For this very reason here. Lot of you mechanics just are in a rush and have this attitude of like “its not my car so why should i care” .. not good

Before I changed my coils and spark it said one code after changing all plugs and coils 3 codes popped up saying all cylinders misfire

I have a 2003 ES 300 and have the same problem except have tried what you did just happened this morning .what do you recommend I do first ?thanks!

Do you need a wheel alignment after doing this.

Is it pretty much the same for a 2006 4.2 trailblazer?

I've been having the same issues stopped at a local AutoZone and they help me test it said the power just wasn't getting through It had to be a power cable. The ground cable was almost corroded apart at the engine connection, so I replaced it. Still stuttered, So I did a little TH-cam research and found you looks like I'm going to have to check this stuff out myself I don't have a compression tester Don't have the little light tester but I have tool to take it apart. fingers crossed

No codes and no idle issue before changing plenum gaskets. Now it rough shaking bad idle. All cylinders are good tested with noid light. It's possible a wire or coincidence the iac is faulty now or sensor.

I replaced the oil pressure switch twice but the engine light keeps coming back anyone knows what might be triggering it?

Gracias mi amigo, ya funciono el claxon, era la conexión que comentaste al último, estaba haciendo falso contacto, de echo fue lo que cheque primero ya que no tengo instrumento para checar corriente, saludos y bendiciones 👍

Hello, please help me if anyone had this issue. I have Nissan Juke 2015. A problem started a few weeks ago. When i start the car it's ok but after 30-40 minutes of driving when car reaches some good temperature, and while I'm standing in heavy traffic or standing on idle sometimes its engine changes sound to something like it lost some power, starts shaking on idle, and whole car is also shaking. I went to mechanic and we changed spark plugs, it did not help, then we changed ignition coils, it did not help as well. Now mechanic says that could be a computer problem sometimes it works sometimes it does not and car starts shaking while standing in traffic or on idle. When ever i give a bit push on a pedal or turn on the AC it fixes, but when i release pedal and let it be on idle, it starts shaking again (sometimes it even goes away by itself). I also plugged to a diagnostic and it does not show any code until it starts shaking, when shaking it shows this "code P0300 multi cylinder misfire". What is your opinion about this situation and symptoms i told you? Can this be an injector or some cable problem or some sensor? Thank you

Why would the code give wrong data as to which cylinder was misfiring?

Hey I just did this on the same exact make year and model. Afterwards i cleared the codes and test drove the car, no engine light. I rescanned the car after test drive and now the misfire codes care gone but not I have P1278 A/F Sensor 1 bank 1 code. Could this just be because I just replaced the fuel injector and had everything disconnected? For did I do something wrong ?

I have a 2009 1.8 sedan, very vwry clean car with 240k miles. Ive been dealing with misfires for the past 10 months, im a Tech and just couldnt figure it out!! Ive gone through 10 coil packs, thats one per month... A set of NGK Iridium plugs, Replaced Engine & Trans Main ground straps, and last weekend i replaced the throttle body also. If it ever fixed it was always very temporary, within a cpl days it slowly walked back into misfiring and became more and more stronger of one. Well ive really been thinking O.T. lately about its symtoms being im the owner and drive ot daily which ive hated every minute of lol, something told me to pull the fuel pump sending unit out so i did earlier today!! Low and behold the fuel strainer was pure BLACK. I cannot get ahold of a new complete sending unit quickly so had to reinstall the filthy part back into the tank. But being i disrupted everything in there and drained out the pumps cup i must have released a clog temporarily and right now my car is literally running and driving like a brand new civic, NO JOKE! Idling perfectly, Shifting very nicely, idle is stable and not bouncing all over the place and its just all around smooth right now. For having 240k miles youd be amazed how good this car runs and drives. Its a super clean car also for being a 2009. Was one owner before me and was always garage kept so theres NO RUST underneath, not even corrosion. Now i have it and keep it Garage kept also. Now that this car will be running perfectly i can finally set forth my plans for giving it a full make over! Come spring time this car will be show quality esp with the plans i have for it. Im a Mechanic, but also a Body Tech who works at a body shop so i have the means and resources to do alot! This might just end up the only covic sedan in the world with a Targa Top....Only civic in the world like that in general. Ive been discussing the idea with a coworker discussing planning & fabrication of it. Will have to fabricate a roll bar set up for roof strength. But im really looking fwd to giving this beauty a full on Make-Over, suspension, wheels & tires, fabricate wide body fenders, Ding removal, paint reconditioning, Mugen Ground Effects kit, White LED light rings behind the wheels, Rear Disc Brake conversion, Interior overhaul, and lastly Stereo Over haul and customization! She gonna be a beauty!!

I can't get at that 8mm bolt for lines to save my butt... Not been so easy on the LTZ version...

Alguien sabe como quitar el tubo de la bariya para checar el aceite porque se quebro la mia y trate de sacarla y se hundio asta el fondo trate y trate y mas se hudía

Thanks man 👍🏼

Excelente video sin paja y polvo

Ae puede sustituir el estereo original por uno de pantalla sin causar problemas al auto?

These guys have very high skill level. I have to do ths job, I think I am going to grind that 21mm socket on each side, then I can grab the socket with a cheaper low quality vice grip.

Es el mismo recibidor para una ford focus 2012 ?

Estoy viendo el tutorial porque mi focus tiene el mismo problema y me vine a topar a Michael Jackson de fondo, amamos🫶

Good information. If you are using a rack, don’t be like these guys! You can get dead. It is deadly to use wood blocks as spacers! Good luck on that insurance claim. Btw 21mm not 21 inch bolt. It is very helpful to give the sizes of the hardware, but please accurate and consistent.

Oye tengo un problema igual en el mismo modelo de carro también no funciona el claxon pero si funciona con el botón de pánico, podrás ayudarme

When you connect the tester to the battery what pins do you touch to test...

Gracias por tu enseñanza. Es muy buen video

Great Job and thanks for the help!

I have a very slight shake at idle...I'm starting to think it is NOT a misfire because there is virtually no change at all in RPMs....doesn't feel like it could be a bad mount because mounts cause a higher vibration that gets BETTER when you put in neutral...mine gets worse when I put in neutral....could a harmonic balancer that is just starting to go cause some mild intermittent shaking at idle? The rubber is starting to crack and dry rot on one side of it....

i replace an injector now it wont start, please help th-cam.com/video/LIq7uCtgBnQ/w-d-xo.html

nice work brother

Gracias !! gran video ! pude hacer el ajuste de apretar el conector ingresando desde el capó, mismo modelo año 2015.

took me 20 min drop rack n pinion

Como se programan

Thanks for this video help me a lot I have the same problem in my Nissan senses 2005 thanks again from San Diego CA

Is it pretty much the same for a 2005?

How is the tester hooked up?

HELPppp! buying a 04’ lexus ES330 only 101xxxmiles and it is salvage from a hit on the right front bumper. cleaned up soo nice negotiated to 3k worth it?

Thank YOU!!!😀

DIELECTRIC GREASE IS TGE GREATEST LUBE EVER!!! SMART MAN TO USE IT!!! OLDER OBD1 CARS TOO...SPARK PLUG WIRES AND EVEN THREADS OF PLUGS IS NEEDED TO DO THAT JOB CORRECTLY...PLUG WIRE BOOTS ARE A MUST...ESPECIALLY IN HIGH HUMIDITY AREAS...!!!

Si vas a hacer un video hazlo bien si no no hagas nada.

Great Video...First, can you tell us which tab your testing on as I assume the Pulse going to Injector also....and that it should be coming via the Middle wire...when the Power and Ground are the two on the outside of the....PLEASE CLARIFY for everyone? Second, I am trying to follow this, and going to buy a voltage tester like you use to test Injector pulsation. But my issue is the Ignitor which is not working. My 2004 Nissan Sentra is not firing at all on only one cylinder. so I switched ignitor to prove to myself the ignitor is NOT working....and that shows it must be the signal going to that Ignitor. So I think it is the wiring and therefore was trying to locate the wire fault going to that ignitor and thought perhaps I can do it like you did to check the injector pulse - is that valid at all (see the check u made for pulsation at about 7:45 in your video). Thanks a million for your videos! PS: . I switched ignitors from 2 separate cylinders and the same cylinder will not fire--no matter which Ignitor(working ignitors) I put in that cylinder.

You could have taken it out without removing outer tie rods as well. Just measure from center of old rack to the grease fitting on outer tie rod. Then make sure new rack measurements are the same.

Hi I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra Iv already checked the Spark plugs Coil packs Coil pack connectors And fuel injectors Everything seems working What’s next?

What if you don't have one of those spark testers