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Appreciate you watchin! 😎🤙🏽

@@ServiceTechSonny where are you located?

@ I’m up in NorCal

Thanks Hector! 😎🤙🏽

Sounds like an issue with the damper for your 3rd zone - possibly it was wired incorrectly? Start by comparing the damper wiring for the upstairs zone to the other two and see if there is any obvious difference. If the damper uses 3 wires you can try swapping M4 & M6 on the upstairs zone. Is it always blowing when another zone is calling, or is it blowing during the purge cycle at the end of a call from another zone? The former is likely a mis-wired damper and the latter can be configured with the PURGE DAMPERS setting set to [UNCHANGED] in the HZ322 advanced settings.

⁠@@cvinci1thank you for your response. I will try and figure this out when I can get into my attic again. I never messed with the wiring of the dampers at all up in the attic or settings, which confuses me. Only wiring of the thermostat of the Zone 2 I believe if it is labeled correctly.

@@x3Myst3ry Good luck. It's also possible that the zone damper motor for the upstairs zone is dead so the damper is stuck in the open position. If you can access the damper motor, you can inspect visually and manually close it temporarily while you sort out the problem. If you're not sure what you are doing, a competent HVAC tech can probably get you sorted pretty quickly.

@@cvinci1 I was thinking it could be dead as well. Could this cause AUX heat to kick on by chance? For example.. I’ve had my temp set at 68 and inside heat is 66 but AUX heat kicks on when outdoor temp is between 40-50s. Which is definitely not normal. Especially when I’m calling for only 2 degrees higher.

Appreciate you watchin Stevie 😎🤙🏽

I agree man ! Stuff isn’t made like it used to be. -.- we just replaced it under a full warranty to keep the client happy. Thanks for watchin 👊🏽😎

Thanks for watchin Joe! 😎

Appreciate it! Thank you 👊🏽😎

That a good one Tony! Yea with the 2 stage you can run 24 to the valve but you gotta make sure it makes good contact on the valve . On a single stage valve it’s super easy to bypass and run C and R to the valve to test with some wires and spade connectors 😎

Yes. Particularly if the insulation is visible and the fibers are being disturbed by your movement when working in there.

Exactly what Jason said in the attics with insulation blown everywhere. Trying to last as long as I can and stay healthy in the trade

Must be from California. Everything causes cancer even breathing you own breath. Probably eats McDonalds for lunch.

I appreciate that Jon! Helpin with some tips for the next generation 😎🤙🏽 thanks for watchin!

Not bad at all! I’m in NorCal where abt 75% of the units are horizontal in the attics unfortunately

@@ServiceTechSonny I am in Arizona. Our air handler is in the attic also and in the horizontal position. However, I did create an area where you had some space to work and access to the unit comfortably . I’ve watched a few videos where it’s an absolute nightmare trying to get into a comfortable position to do some work. I don’t know why when our house was built a proper access to the unit was not created. Did the builders think these things would never break? I guess I should have said your space to work on the unit was better than many others I have seen on utube. As a viewer of the video and not being there I’m at disadvantage. At any rate it was a great video showing your organized method of diagnostics.

@ it amazes me how little planning goes into the space around the units so be serviced. You’re right it’s like the designer or builder thinks we can set em and forget em 😂 that’s good planning on your part to make that space available! I appreciate your feedback , thanks a lot!! 👊🏽😎

Thanks Steven! 👊🏽😎

Appreciate you hangin out! Thanks for watching 😎

Appreciate you man! 🤙🏽

Great way to find the problem, thanks for sharing

I'll get you a Kleenex.

You’re that guy that tells em all they have a crack in the heat exchanger and need a new unit.

So am I understanding this correctly? when unit received signal for cooling, something intermittently shorted in the board causing high limit to close telling the inducer to come on? I’m assuming the high limit is supposed to be open when signal is not being sent for heat, correct? Or am I way off?

Sorry if the video looked a little rushed due to it being a “short” . The only part which was replaced was the valve the existing manifold was reused and it all fit back together just right! No pipe work was done. The other manifold was from a different unit I harvested from after it died. Thanks for watchin!!

4 years old - Trane Gas Pack - Norcal , Thanks for watchin Fisher! 🤙🏽

😆🤙🏽

Furnace rated pig tail , welcome to the west! thanks for watchin

thank you!

It was thoroughly cleaned on that top orifice before i reinstalled the manifold i know in the video it cut quick to the re install. i usually only remove them if they are caked up with carbonic build up and necessary. thanks for watchin!

Been workin on furnaces since 08 man. this is just for fun

Thanks Wizard! 🤙🏽

Thank you Fisher I appreciate you! 🤙🏽

Appreciate ya!

Scary stuff man! Thanks for watchin Leo 🤙🏽

The pricing is crazy but other than that it’s not bad what’s some of your complaints about it?

😅 I’m editing the video like did I really just call this paper clip a safety pin! 😫 you might get some bloopers every now and then in here haha , thanks for watching Sam 🤙🏽

It might be a safety clip you never know

@@tabcreedence6553😂😅

So many expert criticisms 🤣🤣

Like figuring out a puzzle! Thanks for watchin bro! 🤙🏽

Thank ya!