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@RobertFields-qr7dr I'm not 100% certain, and I'm not around my machine to look at it, but I believe there is a starter solenoid on these machines. I'd start with making sure there is power to that, and that there is Voltage at the trigger wire when the key is turned to the crank position.

I'm not a fan of the way it looks having LEDs drilled into or surface mounted on the bed. Honestly, I'm not super thrilled about them in the front bumper either, but on the bed, they are susceptible to being damaged easily when loading or unloading things from the bed. Using the existing lights is a cleaner, more professional looking end result in my opinion.

@@NewcomerGarage Makes sense, thanks for the reply, brother!

Unfortunately, options for Copywrite free music that won't get flagged by YT is limited. I am not a musician so I am unable to make my own music for use in my videos. I have even used music from sites specifically for Creators and YT will still flag it... sorry if it's not to your liking, but you can't please everyone all the time...

2" front and rear.

Yes, it's just the 3 wires for the winch switch, but if I recall, you'll need to jump the switched 12v wire to the terminal for the light on the switch and also a ground wire if you want the switch to light up. Also, I'd strongly recommend against using the T-tap style connectors that just pinch on the existing wires. They cause damage to the conductors and have a tendency to cause corrosion. Check out my automotive and powersports wiring videos. I covered a lot about different types of connections in those videos!

You are correct. If you watched the first few minutes of the video, I explained that there are numerous other step by step videos out there if you need someone to show you every nut and bolt to remove. This was just a general overview of the process and the parts I used.

Sure, feel free to email me with the details at NewcomerGarage@gmail.com

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@@NewcomerGarage Hi, thank u. please check your inbox

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If I recall correctly, there are two clips on the front edge to remove between the bed and the cab, and then there are a few clips that are molded into the panel that can be released with a panel removal tool or a screwdriver and pull straight out.

@@NewcomerGarage perfect. Thanks man. Appreciate it. I love the color.

I didn't want it on the dash. (I think they look tacky) The radio I'm using has subwoofer level control on it if needed.

Not sure on that. Did you follow my step by step video or this short one? I know that the '22 and up units use a different flasher and switch than the '21 and older units. Make sure you ha e the correct ones. If you used a trailer wiring g module like I did, make sure it is compatible with LED lights or you'll end up with a bunch of goofy stuff like what you're describing.

@NewcomerGarage yes, I used the Hopkins 48895, flasher FLASHER, CFMOTO OEM - 5HYV-161000-1G01. I got a schematic from someone that did it also. I did however use different lights than you guys did. I used CoCsmart-002 from Amazon

@BusterWalls Not sure what's going on. I would start with disconnecting the Hopkins module and seeing if the front lights then start working properly. If they are still wonky, disconnect the front lights and see if the dash indicators flash properly. Basically keep chasing the problem back to the start. I haven't used the lights that you have, but it's possible there is a feedback issue with them since they are "dual element" lights. I've also had bad trailer light modules. Most issues that I've heard of from people that have done it with the same components as I used and followed my other video have been "installer error" and missing steps not isolating the wiring on the trailer module properly. Seeing as how you used a schematic from someone else, I can't be for certain where the issue is.

@@NewcomerGarage thanks man! I appreciate it! I'll get to work on it. Lol. What a pain!

No, the floorpans being in or out doesn't affect the rocker panel replacement.

@@NewcomerGarage thank you, watching your videos as I'm doing the same amount of metal replacement for my wife's 87 monte.

The doors are from DFK Hardcabs. I ordered the cab kit through my dealer when I bought my machine.

If the body was off of the frame, you could probably fight the inner and outer in together as one piece and weld the floor pan to the inner from underneath on the back side. With the body still mounted on the frame, you don't have any access to weld the inner rocker to the floor pan unless you leave the outer rocker off and plug weld it. Even if I had pulled the body off the frame though, I'd probably still do them separately to make it easier to fit the panels in the correct orientation like they are from the factory in the area between the rear wheelwell and the B pillar. (The inner structure of the body actually gets "sandwiched" between the inner and outer rockers in that area and would be a pain to align if installing as one piece.)

I read it depends on your voltmeter and how quickly it cycles. Mine also was showing, somewhat erratically, like 3-6 volts as it blinked. Worked fine though.

Yup 100% right. I also was trying to use sequential led lights for turn signals and those did not work with the flasher module. Wired regular led light and that did the trick. Thanks!

Start by removing all of the interior and seeing what all actually needs replaced. If it needs a full floor pan, I'd look into just buying replacement seat mounts rather than trying to salvage the old ones. Make sure you have all of the new panels on hand and start scraping the old seam sealer off to expose the edges of the panel that needs to be replaced. Locate and remove spot welds to remove the old pan.

Are you 100% certain that it's on all the time? I know mine has power for approx. 30 seconds after turning the key off, and then it will shut down. Unless they rewired it all, it should have plugged into an OEM connector under the dash for the heater and wiper.

@@NewcomerGarage oh good to know about the delay. I checked it right after engine shutdown. I will take a look if it will turn off after some time. Thanks !

Never said the TJ was $500. The audio system is $500. Technically, this Jeep was free to me as I inherited it when my aunt passed away...

What year is your machine, and are you in the USA?

2023 in the USA

@hffhtgdhg3224 I'm not familiar with the 2022-23 models, but I do know that there are some differences from the '21 and older models like mine. First of all, did you use the switch and flasher that I listed in the video description? If so, those are not the correct ones for the '22+ machines. If you used the correct parts for your year of machine, it might be a built in feature on the newer units much like newer vehicles that shut off the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) when the turnsignals are activated to make the turnsignals more visible. It's common in the automotive industry on vehicles that have the signal lights integrated into the headlight assembly like the OEM signal lights from CFMoto do.

I agree. If I were to pay others to "restore" the car, it would be an insane amount of money, and the value of the vehicle just wouldn't justify it in the end. However, if I do the work myself, I can use it as a learning experience, and if it doesn't turn out perfect, at least I didn't ruin a nice car learning!

Thanks for watching, I hope to keep moving forward with this project over this winter. I've been swamped with work this summer...

Sorry, I dont... I've been out of that industry now for about 4-5yrs, so I'm not familiar with the current model numbers. Unfortunately, the Directed Electronics website (Directed.com) is almost worthless nowadays as far as researching model numbers and features. They basically want to force you to purchase the unit and have it installed by an authorized retailer. All the info in the video should basically pertain to all systems though.

@@NewcomerGarage ok.. I’m not certain I’ll do one anyway. It’s a neat thought but not needed for me. I followed your video on the turn signal install. Basically did mine identical. Just an fyi… mine is a 2023 Uforce 1000. Worked flawlessly. Of course needed a different flasher relay but that’s expected I suppose. Awesome videos man!

@richardf3294 Yeah, the remote starter is pretty much just a novelty item for me... I have a bunch of them sitting on a shelf in the garage that I would buy cheap when they would pop up for sale just to have for side jobs. My machine sits in a heated garage plugged into a battery tender, so I've honestly only remote started it a handful of times. But, if someone had one that sat out in the cold, it could be useful I suppose! Glad to hear the turnsignal video helped you out!

@@NewcomerGarage most definitely useful for outside units. Mine is one of those. lol. I’m currently battling a regulator issue. Didn’t want to pay Cfmoto price so I found one online(surely a knock off) but the connectors are slightly smaller than the factory plugs. So now I’m in the middle of chasing the correct size out for the one I purchased. Never knew they had multiple sizes of those plugs. Funny thing about it, it probably would have been a warranty fix but I don’t have a trailer personally to haul it to a dealer and I don’t want it sitting at one for who knows how long. Anyway, good content man.

The blinker wires are present in the factory wiring at either headlight and the harness on the bed by either taillight. Machines sold in markets outside of the US came with turnsignals, so the wiring is all there to use with the OEM lights. I go over all of the colors and locations in the video.

For what exactly?

Never mind figured it out.

I would suspect that it is a similar process, but I haven't personally worked on a 600.