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Sorry for the late reply. Only had to reset the TCAM twice, that seems to have been addressed. Main persistent issue is rear axle shaft clicking noise. I’m on the 3rd shaft. Winter is coming. Let’s see if they will have to replace it again. Other than that, no issues.

It won't dim the lights at all. Here's an oversimplified explanation of how canbus works when it comes to headlights. First, we need some basic understanding of what canbus is. Canbus is a wired network that connects all the different electrical components, switches, pedals, buttons and dials inside the car. Before canbus, every single electrical component had its own control wire. After canbus, components are grouped together using a control board, and only the control board has a control wire. For example, without canbus, all the switches in your door handle for controlling each window, door lock/unlock, window lock, as well as the door open sensor were all wired directly to the ecu. In this configuration, they acted like a standard light switch in your home. Press a button, the circuit is closed, and power is applied. Let go, and it stops. In a modern door WITHOUT canbus, you would have 9 or more separate wires going to the ecu. And that's just for the driver side door. If you have power seats, that's another 8+ wires. The harness would be massive and complicated with so many failure points. With canbus, those 17+ switches are wired to a control board, with a single wire going to the ecu. Inside that control wire is a tiny fiber optic cable that networks the ecu with the control unit. When you activate a window switch, instead of the "on/off" power style of a light switch, the control board sends a digital signal to the ecu telling it which switch has been activated, and requesting a specific amount of power be sent back, to activate the switch. Once the power is received by the control board, it closes the circuit for the switch, power is applied, and the operation occurs. When the switch is released, the control board sends another signal to the ecu telling it to stop sending power, as well as how much power was actually sent to the switch during operation. The ecu knows how much power (in voltage and watts) each component SHOULD use when operating correctly. If the actual power differs from the expected power, it triggers a fault. Now we can discuss the problem of adding LED lights directly to a canbus system designed for halogen bulbs, and easily identify why the fault occurs. Halogen bulbs require 35w of power to operate. So the ecu/bcu expects the control board to say "I'm using roughly 35w, all is well." Since halogen bulbs need 35w, if the control board says its using less than that, the bcu/ecu thinks the headlight isn't working, and it triggers a fault. The system is designed to detect faults, and alert the driver. A burnt out bulb, corroded contact, damaged wire, or no bulb at all would cause the control board to use less than 35w, indicating that the bulb is not functioning. LED bulbs are different from halogen bulbs in the same way that canbus and non-canbus systems. Halogen bulbs operate in an "on/off" light switch style circuit, whereas LED bulbs use a control board to convert the power coming in to the correct power going out to the LEDs. LED bulbs typically use about half the wattage of halogen bulbs, around 12-14w. So the ecu/bcu is sending 35w to the control board, the control board is sending 35w to the LED bulbs, but the LED bulbs are returning 12w to the control board, which tells the ecu/bcu something is wrong. Original canbus systems from the late 90s to mid 2000s would cut off power completely. Later model canbus systems with driver alert, however, do not. So the LED Bulb functions normally, but the ecu/bcu triggers an alert on the dash. Another issue canbus systems might encounter with LED lighting is flickering, though this is limited mostly to American cars built by Ford, Chevrolet, and their sub brands when talking about headlights. They used pulse width modulation (PWM) to extend the life of halogen bulbs when day time running lights were mandated. Rather than re-engineering the lamp assembly to have better airflow to keep the bulbs cool, they opted to pulse the bulbs on and off rapidly, reducing the amount of heat generated over time. The pulse width was short enough to keep the fimilent from dimming, which cut back on the amount of power being wasted as heat energy. The pulse width was longer during the day, when the bulbs weren't needed for driving, reducing the temperate significantly. It's worth noting that all LED bulbs use PWM, which is handled by the control board on the bulb itself. When you put an LED Bulb in a PWM system, you get flicker, because LED bulbs require much more consistent power. As a result, you may notice that the LED bulbs are fine at night, but flicker during the day, based on how PWM is used in the design. Volvos do not use PWM, however. So how does a canbus Decoder (the adapter between the bulb and the canbus system) work? The Decoder hijacks the canbus system and tricks the control board for the headlights into thinking everything is fine. It takes the 35w input from the control board, sends it to the bulb, and when the bulb sends back 12w, the Decoder tells the control board it was 35w. In the case of PWM systems, the Decoder smooths out the frequency, taking the pulses at 20hz, and converting them into pulses at 60hz, which are then stepped up further by the LED bulbs, some of them as high as 200hz. The Decoder acts the same way on the return path, telling the control board for the lighting that everything went well. In summary, adding a Decoder to an LED bulb cannot make it dimmer, since the amount of power being supplied to the bulb doesn't change. LEDs are different from conventional filiment bulbs in that the color and intensity of the light they emit depends on the voltage, rather than the wattage. Since a Decoder only smooths out the voltage going in, and lies about the wattage going out, it will have no impact on the performance of the LED bulb itself, as the power modulation is done by the board inside the bulb. The only factors in the "brightness" of LED bulbs is the quality of the diodes, their angle within the headlight, and the design of the headlight assembly itself.

Is your car P3?

Orbit

Orbit

You’re probably right. I’m at 20.1kwh/100kms. And this is after winter. Figure based on my behaviour. It should be interesting what the figure will be in 50K. I’m at 104,000 now so it won’t take too long.

Orbit

Disconnected negative terminal. But if your car is off, there is no power going to that motor. It won’t mess anything up if you complete the repair and plug it back in before you turn the ignition on again to cycle the parking brake.

did you disconnect the battery while doing this?

@@PaulRevere886 Nope, I didn't.

It did. I had the issue once more so the hack was useful. Just parked to shop and took the battery with me. Came back a while later and put it back in and solved the glitch. I think recent software updates have fixed the issue for most PS2’s.

It was a 2017 with regular halogen bulbs, not HID like yours. This wouldn’t apply to your car.

It might, if it runs on Google Automotive. But I’m not sure.