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Thank you! Wish I could do more of these videos but my day (and night) job takes up most of my time. 🙂

Thank you for saying so 🥰

Thank you so much!! It is a pain in the butt but can be worth it in the end.

THANK YOU so much for the wonderful comment!!! My only thoughts on a complementary yet contrasting stain would be to pick something that DOES NOT have blue undertones...red and blue are opposites on the color wheel so next to each other the pink will look redder and the blue-ish will look bluer.

@@josel.martinez6700 Concrete.

Yay! Glad it was helpful to you.

Hi! Sorry for the late reply. Do you mean that the brick has already been painted over and your home is now a yellow color?

Good feedback.

Thank you for the tip! The rest of the carpet is not great either so I think we will be replacing.

Yes. It’s a large quantity of pet urine. 🤢

Pet urine, most likely

Pet urine. I believe they had dogs; not cats.

WELL, the only reason I think it was even feasible is because the house and crawlspace construction is ICF / insulated concrete forms - which is essentially concrete poured in between Styrofoam "walls". A normal stick build home would not have a similar energy efficiency. The home was built in 1998 by a former engineer. I don't think it is suitable for most homes, for one reason or another. Cost is one - ICF is far more expensive to built than typical stick.

@@pnwerica Ah, fair enough. Still a very clever idea!

This was awhile ago so I honestly don't remember. But definitely can take awhile the more pieces you have...😬

Fr and she should get inspirational pamphlet for 100 drywall bites

yeah, and ninja traininf course for 15,000 drywall​@@Treybey13

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YO-

@@chailantz4309 what’s wrong with that I want to eat drywall too

@@ANGRY_MUNCI404 idk.. like...

@@chailantz4309uhm..

@@chailantz4309It’s an eating disorder. Nothing is WRONG with them.

Thank you for saying so. ♥

Yep same thing I noticed. Splotch. I wonder if better method to lighten.

Hi @jdaniels1313! I had an exterior maintenance company soft pressure wash the exterior surfaces of the gutters before I painted. LOL, I did not care about dripping on the plants so I did not cover them! I didn't have issues with drips either. DO IT!! It doubles as a work out too!

@@pnwerica I just completed my 2nd story gutter wash & paint, in Lacey WA, using essentially your technique! Funny, I had it in my head you used a paint pad rather than a small roller on the end of that extension pole, so I first tried the paint pad, and it sucked! How DID she get that paint pad to work??!! Lol. I think I mixed up your video with another one where someone used a paint pad. Then I tried a small roller like you used, and used essentially the same technique I realized you were using here. It worked beautifully! Also, I noticed that if I was careful to not overload the roller with paint, there were almost no issues with drips. So that answers why you didn't lay down a drop cloth--it was unnecessary! Anyway, thank you for sharing your approach; it showed me how this project COULD be successfully done without getting up on a ladder! Equipment and supplies I used: 1) For pressure washing the gutters, approx. 20 feet above ground: Pressure washer extension pole: B E PRESSURE 85.206.424L Telescoping Wand, 4-Stage, 24' Length, 4000 psi, 200 Degree F, 8.0 GPM, Black/Yellow 2) Pressure washer: PowerStrok​e Subaru 3100 PSI Electric Start Pressure Washer (Sold by Costco, I bought in 2017) 3) For painting: Unger 24 ft. Aluminum Telescoping Pole with Connect and Clean Locking Cone and Quick-Flip Clamps, $54 at Home Depot 4) I used the Sherwin Williams "Rain Refresh" paint that is supposed to prevent a buildup of grime. Time will tell if it actually does... I bought the brightest white they had. I went with the 24 foot extension pole, but found it had too much flex if I used the topmost extension, so I closed that one down and only used the bottom two extensions and had more control. I do have some stuff to paint where I'll need to use it at near-full extension, and it WILL work, just not as productively as when there is less flex. Next project for me is cleaning out that 2nd story gutter! Higher than I'm comfortable being on a ladder, so I'll try the pressure washer extension pole and J-shaped sprayer tip attachment.

@@jdaniels1313 For sure the pole gets wobbly! I experienced that too! Definitely an arm workout for control. I didn't even pressure wash my gutters; I hired someone to do that. 😂 Also good to know about the Sherwin Williams "Rain Refresh" paint - we need it here! Thanks for your thoughtful reply.

when this system was popular(70's&80's) there were gov't subsidies and electric company assistance for the bill. that made this system very efficient.

Thanks for commenting and glad you enjoyed!😀

That is tough. I think you could also replace them with or add on top a thin veneer of wood that could be stained to match the cabinets.

When a floating floor is installed, it can't be installed flush against the wall or existing baseboards because of the expanding and contracting that happens. So the builder is correct! Any trim would cover the small gap; doesn't have to be quarter round. I am guessing that you also have baseboards and the floor was installed AFTER the baseboards were in...hence the need for an ADDITIONAL trim piece.

@juliaschirmers278 Thank you for saying so! I am so happy these videos have been inspirational to so many people! If you have some free space in your garage I suppose you could sand there as well. The dust does travel a few feet though.

You are correct.

Hello @misterrr ! So sorry for my tardy reply. I am so happy this video was helpful for you! I tried CitriStrip myself and it kept pulling red up and into the wood. So, while it removed the top poly coat and the the existing stain, it left behind a red tone to the wood - which was the counter of what I was trying to do. I did not try Klean Strip or the Jasco version. My thought was that the top coat / stain level was so minimal that the sanding was the best way to go. There is a tool out there...that you can put on the end of your drill / driver called a molding flap sanding wheel. You can see it at the bottom of this page: line10tools.com/blogs/blog-posts/got-a-drill-here-are-3-sanding-attachments-for-drills-that-will-save-your-time-and-money That will get into those crevices for you!!

@@pnwerica That’s very useful feedback on the Citristrip, and thank you also for the list of drill attachments.

I think Im going with the natural oak look and 2 coats of matte finish. But first its time to sand.... and sand....and sand. LOL!!!!

@ShellBells SO I thank YOU for sharing your feedback!! I am glad to see that my video has helped people. And best of luck!!! Send me a picture when you are done to agentericastout (at) gmail (dot) com!

@@shellbells339 Yes, sand and sand and sand! Please test a swatch of your cabinet if you aren't going with a slight color stain. Just want to make sure you don't end up with something too golden! And please be sure to use the water base "poly" because it truly dries clear.

Exact same

Thanks so much for saying so!!! 🥰

Hi Linda! Sorry for the tardy reply! I keep forgetting to look at what grit sanding disks I used. I THINK I did most of the finish removal using medium, and then went back over it with fine once the finish was off. Also, worth noting is that the random orbital sander types like the one I used CAN leave little curved marks in the wood. I've noticed this happening if I use too heavy of a sanding disk. Just another thing to take notice of. 😜 Thank you so much for taking the time to comment!