วีดีโอ

Which airfoil? Goes a little fast for my taste.

Would love a set of plans for this old girl. Beautifully presented and seems to fly very well indeed

Very nice review and lovely footage - that last landing beneath the drone looked very cool. Love the detail you put it together with. I wish I had known about that foam protector when I was putting together my Durafly Spitfire. It is 6 years old now, but it still looks pretty nice. If I had water nearby, I would try one of these too. You are right, it looks lovely over the water :) Happy landings!

Nice decathlon!

hello Do you think it is possible to put an electric motor on it, what would be the recommendation?

Would this make a good first edf jet to learn on ?

Good show

She’s a beauty!

"Prepare for a crash,💥 dive!" 👇 🚨

"Achtung!" "Tommy,🇬🇧 bomber!" 💣💥

I was fortunate to own this model a while back. David Baker had done an excellent job, starting with Ivan Pettigrew's Solent design, he modified the plan to reflect the Sunderland, keeping it very light for realism and good handling. It featured in an RCM&E edition back in 2015, I think. I added 3D printed flame dampers, some exhaust blackening on the wings and changed the fwd hatch to magnet retention. Great to see her in the air again and expertly flown at that! 👍

Excellent model

Very nice!

What a remarkable model - the first I've ever seen as a real flyer. The Germans hated it with a vengeance, and nick-named it the flying porcupine. Not only did it have the nose turret and side-mounted NGs like the B17, it carried a selection of bombs and depth charges in slide-out racks that came out of the fuselage under the wings. You can see the real thing at the IWM Duxford - it really is a vast machine. A few years back Kermit Weeks made a couple of movies on one in captivity stateside - take a look - th-cam.com/video/th1JI90vQtg/w-d-xo.html

Three years ago I bought a model like that in 1:30 scale from another manufacturer and I bought a decent expensive radio with a receiver for it. At the very beginning there were problems with connecting the installation correctly and I had to look for someone to help me with it. Later there was a problem with the landing gear, because it had such play that during take-off and take-off the plane did not fly straight, but immediately turned to the side. Eventually I managed to make two correct flights with it, so I bought a gyroscope to make it more stable and easier to use during the flight, especially since I have had it for a short time and I am only just learning to fly. During subsequent flight attempts I crashed it several times practically right after take-off, and then I disassembled it. I even bought a second plane without electronics, because I already have it from the previous one, but it is still in the basement and I do not feel like assembling it and trying to fly it again, because the next one will probably crash like the previous one. I see that you do it a bit differently, maybe that is why it is better solved. If I were to repaint a plane, I would also choose either easyJet or Germanwings (D-AIPX)

Great stuff....Thanks for posting!

Missed it this year....Hope to get there for 25!......Great video thanks for posting.

Thanks for your review. My first thought was: you would have to reverse the polarity of the right motor and then install counter-rotating propellers, mix the throttle and rudder in order to act better on the water. No sooner said than done. I mounted MasterAirscrew propellers in 10x7x3 in CW and CCW and attempted the maiden flight on land. In the videos and comments you could read in advance that co-rotating propellers would always lead to the plane swerving to the left. None of that now after my conversion!! It flew very straight and was easy to land. th-cam.com/video/YN1BORDa8BQ/w-d-xo.html I'm looking forward to the first flight on the water. In your video you could see 3D printed parts, I just purchased these on etsy...

Is this event only once a year? They should go a few more in the milder months!! I need to go to this . Thanks for the good work 👍🏻

Great video. Thanks 👍

she's a beauty - good genetics !

so beautiful ,purity of design !

Raynor Walk

It always amazes me the dedication these enthusiasts have knowing that all that hard work (and money !) can disappear in an instant ! Thankyou

Another well produced video from ScaleMeDown that captures well the great atmosphere at these aerotow events. Hope the Discus repair goes well as it looked great.

It was a nice day.

It's weird how the UK models don't come with Vector. It isn't needed, but it's very helpful to launch it.

Ferry Viaduct

Aliya Junction

Reinger Stream

Mraz Spur

Great aircraft...... Great. Air field *

love the sound , love the model . I haven’t much experience of AS3X . When I tried it very early on its evolution indoors , I wasn’t keen. But watching this and how it was used was interesting .

Excellent video having another look and leaving a comment this time. Thanks for the mention ( SWM & CML) . I can’t help thinking a 70 or 80 mm fan 2.5 mtr version would be cool 👍 for slow dirty passes. Thanks. Steve

Garett Village

Just (literally) completed the wings on the Tony Ray Minimoa 2. At the wing tips I have 2.5cm difference as a result of the wing join angle being slightly different between the 2 wings. So outer wings at different angles meaning the plane is now scrap. OK I am not an experienced builder but the wings are joined using the pre-drilled pine formers and I just assumed the angles would come out the same. Silly me - I should have made an template from one completed wing and use that to ensure a common joint angle. I have not done the maths but clearly a small difference at the joint has a significant impact at the wing tip. Ah well....an expensive way to learn! ps anyone want a lot of balsa scrap......

Prohaska Lake

I would have come down from Cheshire for it,.....but I thought it to expensive to get in.

Next year's dates for this show; 5th & 6th July 2025

Ah I was down at sleap for my flying lessons and the airshow, it was amazing

Collins Rue

Fabulous coverage…well done. Thanks from me as unable to attend any shows this year.

Pièces of art more than model!14 years for the beautiful Mosquito...That's a long way! Sincere congrats and cheers from France !

The Typhoon at the end looked magnificent, definitely worth more of a look, but all models are absoutely fantastic.

I am a novice builder and working on the Minimoa 2 by Tony Ray. My observations/comments so far are below. Yet to sheet the fuselage. GENERAL 1. The lazer cutting is excellent and very accurate. Inevitably I ended up with a number of loose parts in the bottom of the box 2. Quality of the wood is high and the wood looks fit for purpose in its use- some of the wood is simply gorgeous 3. Some of the lazer cut parts are very delicate and are ‘accidents waiting to happen’ (don’t ask me how I know this!). Parts I had difficulty with are: a. The small fuselage bridge piece F25. The grain in this means you have to be ‘lucky’ for it not to break along the vertical grain. Break it I did and so I made a piece from light ply, this is strong and precluded the need for the 2 strengthening pieces provided in the kit b. The 2 wing ribs on the inner wing panels that face the fuselage. Here the shape of the parts is fragile and you really need to get the wing joiners in place to support placing the parts. And yes, I broke mine ! 4. Some nice detail is provided for the cockpit but for some reason the builder has to cut out individual dials from the provided printed paper. It would have been more logical for the printed dials to be formatted to fit the instrument panel as one piece print on paper or a transfer/vinyl print provided 5. Plans for the 4 wing panels are provided 1:1. Some of the info in the instructions could be on the plan and all the parts are not numbered on the plan. There are 2 plans, one for each side comprising inner and outer wing panels. My view is that it would be better to have both inner panels on one sheet and both outer panels on the other. This would enable the builder to make the panels concurrently giving a better opportunity to make them the same. But admittedly you can simply cut the plans to suite 6. Notes on the plan do identify there was a light in the nose - this is not shown on the plan and no representation is provided 7. The plan does show a reduced fuselage side view with the venturi on the nose. No venturi is provided in the kit (on the full size, there was also a second venturi behind a lifting panel on the right hand side of the nose) 8. Plan 2 has the word ‘Minimoa’ and the numbers to scale drawn rather faintly. This is useful…but to a mere mortal like me far out of reach for best use. It would be really useful if this was included either as a transfer/vinyl or as a cut-out paint mask. OK a lot of kits do not provide such stuff but these are unique markings and when you are spending close to 600 Euro to get the model complete (kit + radio stuff+covering+paint) then markings are a rather important part FUSELAGE 9. Instructions state they are for motorized version but nowhere does any info appear on how to motorise the model. There is 1 photo that shows inside the nose where a motor has been installed and 3 options for a motor selection are called out 10. The parts to fix the motor are at the very start of the build - would be good for the instructions to state ‘omit if not building a motorized version’ 11. There is no 1:1 plan of the fuselage but the method of building the fuselage does mean you do not really need one. It is very good but you need to clamp the base on a flat surface to ensure straightness as the 2 base parts have a lot of flex. 12. I found the fuselage to be very ‘wobbly’ early in the construction while building the frames. So I installed some 3mm sq cross bracing from the rearmost cockpit former to the back. This made a considerable positive difference and I regard any weight increase as a small price to pay. This was of course my choice and the whole fuselage will stiffen up with the sheeted outer skin 13. Instructions call out wrapping the fuselage wing box sections in carbon ‘too late’ when access is made more difficult after installing F22 14. No indication/recommendation of where to place the battery for the RC system. Would be nice to know if this should be close to the CofG or forward/backward at least as some general indication. That is because the radio equipment install needs to be planned and implemented while the fuselage is ‘open’ during construction as the battery position needs to be fixed 15. The fuselage servo tray has cut outs for the servo install. These are very close to each other to allow a build for the pushrods. However, I would recommend a pull-pull system for the rudder rather than the steel pushrod in a plastic tube. This in turn means having the servo’s wider apart to allow the width of servo arm movement. 16. No suggestion or provision is made for a tow release mechanism + release servo. It would be useful for the plans to state this INNER WING PANEL 1. Information on the internet identifies that the flaps had a rounded leading edge. Kit instructions say to just bevel the lower edge. Full size had a plywood strip at the top to cover the gap between wing and flap 2. The builder could inadvertently fix the wing joiners in the ‘up’ position instead of the correct outer panel ‘down’ position as the bolt holes are in line. The build manual does show a photo of the unfixed joiners in the correct position 3. The wing ribs on the 2 seater are a different design to those on the single seater Tony Ray model (I think this is unfortunate) OUTER WING PANEL 1. Instructions call for spar W11 which is marked as W11a on the wood. Spar W11 is made of 2 parts (W11a & W11b). Photo on the instructions shows these joined but the part numbers are not shown on the plan. 2. There is a rectangular slot in the rear spar that looks like a good idea but is an unnecessary complication and a problem waiting to happen. I just made a straight angle cut and later filled the slot from the rear with a small piece of balsa. Ribs 30,31 &32 do not align to give a straight rib based on the position of W11b and have to be filed to shape 3. Initial construction gives a wobbly structure so you need to fix supports to the plan around the spars & ribs to maintain the correct shape on the building board. Aligning the back spar against a steel rule and letting the ribs provide the position of the front spar worked for me, but you have to get the ribs aligned parallel to the plan with some scraps nailed to the board 4. Step 2 shows a photo and an instruction that there is a 2mm gap between the work surface and W11. The photo just shows the inner portion of the wing and does not make it clear that the entire length of W11 needs to have 2mm packing to raise it from the board 5. It is not possible to access the outermost nut/bolt on wing joiner W7 once the basic wing is assembled. You either have to drill an access hole in the wing spar from the front or, possibly superglue the bolt in during construction 6. The ailerons go together easily but no capping strips are provided. The pictures of a completed model at the start of the build manual does show no capping strips. But drawings on the internet show capping. The Tony Ray model of the single seat Minimoa provides capping. I have no definite reference for the 2 seater but I think the practice from the single seater would be carried over to the 2 seater re cappings as part of the wing structure

Mossie sounds great - but damn would love to hear it with a pair of Kolm 3cyl in lines - there the closet things ive heard to merlins (easy for me to say-when im not payaing for them!)

What a shame it wasnt properly advertised. Again only knew after the event. Looks great. Would have gone!

15 years and no undercarriage doors??

Superb thx for sharing 👏👏

love the Minimoa - so elegant 😍😍