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Is there a point when squaring these faces to the CL of the bore that the bolt handle cam timing is effected ?

I own the Winchester mid 70 action rifle that has the action like the Rem 700 so looking at the back of the bolt one lug has the bluing, and the other side is wore off the bluing telling just one lug is making contact. I looked at the bolt lugs on my Weatherby Mark 5 and the same thing is some lugs are making contact and other lugs have bluing showing indicating no contact on lock up

So precise sloppy fit is better than a precise polished casting from the factory

K I will keep trying to get it ? I understand the reciever should be trued , which should also make the barrel sit deeper by however much metal was removed, which in turn in theory should cause the bolt to be too long by the same amount so now that would require work, however. . . Im not getting how removal of ANY material from the bolt lugs is going to make it tighter, kinda like having a perfect fitting shoe and then putting a smaller foot into it , looser not tighter no ? I would think the bolt face is the only thing that can be reworked providing head space is off

Just my thoughts but I can't imagine going to any length of putting a new barrel and stock on a Rem 700 without completely truing the entire action/bolt. Of course each customer can choose what they want. I'm paying to completely true up the action first.

Excuse my ignorance. What does cleaning up the front of the lugs do? Really good video, wish there were more videos like this.

A quarter is exactly one inch or 25 mm

Very interesting

Very well explained

1500$ for action, 750$ for barrel, 1100 for stock, 200$ for trigger, 200$ for BDL bm, 1500$ for scope = POS gun

Better than the $100 shop versions.

Did you ever post a follow up video to this review?

Still don't understand why you would do anything to the lugs , they already fit , removal of any material from anywhere other than the face is just creating slop

I always love seeing r700 truing. Wish I could do it! Like the look of your work. Thanks for sharing .

Wow… I’d be pissed if that was my rifle. Great job educating what quality doesn’t and should look like

There is a thing called tollerance stack up too. You might have a barrel already fitted that is 3 thou off but it is offset by a thou difference in the action of 5 thou. So the overall misalignment is 2 though. Then you put a dead on barrel on it and suddenly you are 5 thou off.

I use a manual foot pump for my air mattress

I am a FFL gunsmith for past 30 years. This gun has been on my list for being overly complicated . Yet, it is mechanical sound and only ever had to clean four. Nothing really happens to them otherwise.

Dont lose those pins dude

Thank you, brother!

So as you said its been turned between centres after drilling and rifling yet the bore is not concentric. How does that happen? Is it an error at the boring stage, turning, or did it warp?

you are an expert at this

Interesting!

Beautiful rifle!

Good video

Man if you saw what we used back in mid 2000's shooting p'dogs mid summer in +100degree days. We'd take 7-8 rifles just because everything would get so hot so fast on the towns. I brought a old CO2 tank with a line and would keep it in the tailgate of the truck. After shooting a rifle we'd lay it in a cradle insert the line and let the CO2 blow for a few min and it would make those barrels cold! Cost us about $35 to refill it each season but it worked, bit bulky.

Great video on this subject. Not many out there.

those blowers like the magnetospeed blower are far to NOISY !

So your packing used shells that are completely useless?

Just saw your video. Great job on the repair. Also noticed your vise for holding your work. Is that a commercial product or home made. I'm interested in obtaining info.😊

If you have a deep dent put a drop of urthane varnish in the dent. Let it dry for a few days. If you can still see the dent put another drop of urthane in the dent. Let dry for a few days. Continue until the varnish is flush with the surface then put the new finish on. Make sure you let it dry for a few days between drops or the previous varnish will create "gassing bubbles" in the new varnish. That is true whenever using any varnish. Don't rush or you will get to do it over. Use urthane varnish because it is clear.

Excellent. I just picked up a Rossi RS22-TB today and this is much clearer than the manual as far as describing what needs to be done. Time to start cleaning!!

Thx

Recommend you show a video of your work doing the ignition timing

Great information brother ‼️ 👍 Thank you ‼️

If you" built it for a "customer" why are you using factory ammo?

Is that the Solus 17 or 15 inch? Looking to do this swap and can’t figure out which one to get. Thanks

Do you have to strip it down this far to clean the barrel every time?

Recommend doing the 6.5 CM. Compare the accuracy of the factory 6.5CM to a trued action with a new barrel.

What size of punch?

What a shame Remington has become. All because of "Investors"... the Mitt Romney type. BTW, I say do the .25 Cal, be different!

A "retro" 6.5 Creed or 6.5x47 bedded into the BDL wood stock. Looking forward to this series!!

reminds me on Marlin .22 semi auto

My solus chassis included washers for the front screw so you don't have to cut it down.

im a HUGE fan on my ep 2.0 annealer... so easy to use & dont need to swap out parts & adjusts from 5.7 to 50bmg in seconds.

Thanks for the video, planning on ordering the solus chassis myself here soon for a b14r barreled action

My 6x47 loves Berger 109 hybrids .015" off the lands, Varget powder and CCI 450 primers with Peterson brass. No neck turn chamber with .002" "neck tension". Single digit SDs and .2" groups. Berger 108s and Hornady 108 ELD-M work almost as good.

Thanks for the video! I just clean mine with no problem.

What is the thread pitch on the action bolts, if you don’t mind me asking.

I installed my ejector spring and ejector with a little gun grease to hold it in place. Only two attempts to get put it together.