It really is the best micro CP to date. It's honestly why I still fly 3D helis. Stress free, fly anywhere anytime, real life sim. It also doesn't make people nervous at the park like my 450+ size helis either. Lol 👍
Well put, couldn't agree more, especially the safety part. There's not many models I can own for 3 years and still fly regularly while not spending multiple times what it cost in parts just to keep it airborne. There's never been a better time to get into flying helis.
Sure, no problem once I tried a few more things. Best K110 setup kinda depends what you want from it but so long as lipos are good, even the stock model is superb. I have a HP05 left to test but needed a stronger tail motor which is on a slowboat but so far the spin motor for MCPX and 9T pinion is my favourite along with a K120 tail blade. 300mah nanos or 450mah GNB. K130 needs MG servos to be less fragile but only the tail needs improving in terms of how it flies, couple tail blades left to test but best one seems to be again, depending what you want from it.
@@MicroRCFiend I have both helis and I absolutely LOVE the k110. Just interested to see if it can be improved. Only had the k130 a week so no comment yet
@@RECK_Adventures I read the K110 ESC runs plush 10A firmware so flashing it enabled blheli gov. I don't feel the need to do it but if you are after absolute performance... Hard heli to improve on unless it's just more power you are after. Have fun making friends with the K130, I made a long review on that once recently and despite it's few flaws (servos and tail performance), it compliments the K110 super well.
@@MicroRCFiend I think I'm too inexperienced as a heli pilot to know what it is that I want. But I do know that you slap yours around way harder than I can slap mine without blowing the tail. I've changed the tail multiple times because of crashes and that fact doesn't seem to change so I assume I just need to get better at flying but if I had a slightly more reliable tail I wouldn't feel as restricted. I'm thinking about trying a micro motor Warehouse motor for the tail multiple different KVs with multiple size props to see what combo works best
Excellent flying! Still flying the XK K110 but progress is slow :(. I was watching your XK K100 video and the transmitter settings. It got me thinking about the settings for the XK 110 - do you have some suggested settings for the X6 transmitter for the XK K110 - it seems at the moment that on throttle up there is a sudden jump in the response from quarter throttle up to mid stick - what throttle curves and expo do you recommend?
With the x6 I turned gyro down to zero, maxed out rates at 125 and used a flat 100% throttle curve in idle up. Also removed the normal mode to have a slower rpm idle up. If pitch seems off, check it's zero pitch and mid stick (with subtrim position 6) and same pitch both ways. The default idle up pitch before you make micro adjustments to the 1st and 5th positions for even pitch both ways is 50 in the middle for position 3, 40 for 2, 30 for 1, 60 for 4 and 70 for the 5th. I found a max of 5cm gap between blade tips to be a sensible max collective for the K110. Any more bogs it heavily and 4cm is still enough for mellow 3D. (measured with both blades folded back parallel with the boom).
Sorry to keep asking questions - so mid stick the blades should be parallel and then either side a gap of 4cm. I know you showed this on a recent video for the XK K130 - is it a similar principle when setting up the xk k110? Thanks.
@@heliflyer7185 Yeah, exact same principle on any flybarless heli, translates perfectly regardless of size. Only as good as your blade position and measurements but surprisingly fast and accurate. Perhaps more repeatable than trying to use an actual pitch gauge the K110. More accurate the bigger you go if your error margin in measuring accurately is the same. Try 4cm and see how it feels in punch outs and climbing into the wind. Is it enough for you and does it bog the motor when you do a pitch pump or punch out? I like about 5cm collective on the K110 for 3D or flying in wind. Above that on a stock K110 is gonna bog the motor on punchouts. K130 I like a 6cm gap before punchouts bog which is pretty aggressive at full stick but it's only there if you need it.
Made the adjustment - frightening that the blades were way off before the adjustment! I’m used to flying using a DX8 and Blade helis. As far as Expo is concerned what do you recommend and which axis do the numbers 1, 2 and 5 correspond to? Thanks.
@@heliflyer7185 I believe i's Aileron, Elevator and Rudder for channel order. I don't use any expo on the XK helis right now in main flight modes but there's no right number - I'd try 10 and 30 and see what feels good to you for how you fly. With XK and Futaba, negative expo makes it softer round mid stick, opposite to Walkera and Spektrum where positive expo would do the same.
@@aerialcombat If you run it in idle up (constant throttle rpm) rather than normal mode (rpm changes with throttle position) it will fly much better in wind. More cyclic stability and much better tail holding especially when descending. You can still fly idle up without neg pitch if you need to but a little bit neg and full pos will help it not get swept away in wind too.
I am looking at getting one of the xk k1?? Micro helicopters. I fly multirota and just starting with planes ( not very good at the moment) which one would you recommend for a beginner. Would you also get the transmitter. I have a frsky with multi protocol module. Thanks Michael
K110 without doubt for a first CP heli, flies great, durable, cheap and if you decide helis are for you, a perfect collective management trainer before moving up to something less durable and more powerful. If you are running open TX and support Futaba via a module, I see no reason why you need another TX. I have a model file I created that goes from super tame to very agile if you have any issues setting it up.
@@bigg1smalls You get a main gear and blades in the box but if ordering from BG - extra main gears, spare skids, a larger K120 tail blade and main shaft bearings as the lower one can come out with the main gear would be what i'd go for. The whole tail unit with boom, motor and connector on ebay is under £3.20 which is cheaper than BG's spares for each part and almost a 3rd the price of their tail assembly.www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durable-Tail-Motor-Set-Fit-For-WLtoys-K110-RC-Helicopter-Replacement-Spare-Parts/401740764478?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 HK nano for nine eagles are hard to beat on cost or weight but need polarity swapping before safe to plug in. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-1s-45-90c-lipo-pack-fits-nine-eagles-solo-pro-100.html
In theory it should work on anything running open TX. It was created on the TX so needs to be loaded via sd card/restore model function. Let me know if it works please.
@@MicroRCFiend hello i bought a jumper t12 pro but your settings file for xk k110 you sent me will not work in this new version.the hobby shop was able to down load settings and programme manually.once bonded the servo arms pulled down.could you please send me your email address so I can send you photos of what it looks like.very hard to explain
@@andrewberdo3903 I have to admit i'm a bit confused with your message, perhaps I misunderstand. How did the hobbyshop know my settings to programme the heli manually if they cannot view the file? If they are able to programme manually, could they not set it up for you? Please elaborate on full process. To be clear... What version of open TX is it running? Were you able to put the file on sd card and use the restore model function? Is there a model entry called 'MRCF K110' on your transmitter now?
@@MicroRCFiend hello I'm not to smart on understanding what the hobby man did.ive only had 1 year in flying rc helicopters.they said they could read the file but could not transfer it onto a sd card.it flies well but when it is on the ground the 3 servo arms are down by about 5mm.
@@andrewberdo3903 Ok so if it flies without issue, I presume the file called 'mrcf k110' is loaded and selected. Please confirm if this is not the case. Otherwise, if i flies ok but you have different TX a few things could be the reason. First guess is that you possibly have the transmitter in idle up mode and throttle at the lowest position. This will give the heli maximum negative pitch and result in servos being as you have described. Please answer some more questions to allow me to understand... Important first step is to establish if throttle hold works and which switch on your transmitter that is. For me it is far back left switch. If it is engaged, the throttle will not work when throttle stick is moved. Very Important to ensure throttle hold is engaged before next steps. Once throttle hold is active you are safe to try following things. If you are not sure, remove the main blades from the heli. Now move the throttle stick to the centre. Are servo arms now level at right angle to servo case and parallel to the ground? Does the motor rpm increase with throttle stick? Does motor stop with throttle at lowest position?
Dude, that inverted tree bonk to hand catch was so cool...Made me laugh...So stoked watching you fly! Excellent sound effects.
It really is the best micro CP to date. It's honestly why I still fly 3D helis. Stress free, fly anywhere anytime, real life sim. It also doesn't make people nervous at the park like my 450+ size helis either. Lol 👍
Well put, couldn't agree more, especially the safety part. There's not many models I can own for 3 years and still fly regularly while not spending multiple times what it cost in parts just to keep it airborne. There's never been a better time to get into flying helis.
Nice one mate great flying don 👍👍🤠🇬🇧
After a while of testing the k110 tell us what your favorite setup is in a video please. Same thing with the k130.
Sure, no problem once I tried a few more things. Best K110 setup kinda depends what you want from it but so long as lipos are good, even the stock model is superb. I have a HP05 left to test but needed a stronger tail motor which is on a slowboat but so far the spin motor for MCPX and 9T pinion is my favourite along with a K120 tail blade. 300mah nanos or 450mah GNB.
K130 needs MG servos to be less fragile but only the tail needs improving in terms of how it flies, couple tail blades left to test but best one seems to be again, depending what you want from it.
@@MicroRCFiend I have both helis and I absolutely LOVE the k110. Just interested to see if it can be improved. Only had the k130 a week so no comment yet
@@RECK_Adventures I read the K110 ESC runs plush 10A firmware so flashing it enabled blheli gov. I don't feel the need to do it but if you are after absolute performance... Hard heli to improve on unless it's just more power you are after. Have fun making friends with the K130, I made a long review on that once recently and despite it's few flaws (servos and tail performance), it compliments the K110 super well.
@@MicroRCFiend I think I'm too inexperienced as a heli pilot to know what it is that I want. But I do know that you slap yours around way harder than I can slap mine without blowing the tail. I've changed the tail multiple times because of crashes and that fact doesn't seem to change so I assume I just need to get better at flying but if I had a slightly more reliable tail I wouldn't feel as restricted. I'm thinking about trying a micro motor Warehouse motor for the tail multiple different KVs with multiple size props to see what combo works best
I watched your review and really appreciated it. Probably the best coverage for the 130 so far
Excellent flying! Still flying the XK K110 but progress is slow :(. I was watching your XK K100 video and the transmitter settings. It got me thinking about the settings for the XK 110 - do you have some suggested settings for the X6 transmitter for the XK K110 - it seems at the moment that on throttle up there is a sudden jump in the response from quarter throttle up to mid stick - what throttle curves and expo do you recommend?
With the x6 I turned gyro down to zero, maxed out rates at 125 and used a flat 100% throttle curve in idle up. Also removed the normal mode to have a slower rpm idle up. If pitch seems off, check it's zero pitch and mid stick (with subtrim position 6) and same pitch both ways. The default idle up pitch before you make micro adjustments to the 1st and 5th positions for even pitch both ways is 50 in the middle for position 3, 40 for 2, 30 for 1, 60 for 4 and 70 for the 5th.
I found a max of 5cm gap between blade tips to be a sensible max collective for the K110. Any more bogs it heavily and 4cm is still enough for mellow 3D. (measured with both blades folded back parallel with the boom).
Sorry to keep asking questions - so mid stick the blades should be parallel and then either side a gap of 4cm. I know you showed this on a recent video for the XK K130 - is it a similar principle when setting up the xk k110? Thanks.
@@heliflyer7185 Yeah, exact same principle on any flybarless heli, translates perfectly regardless of size. Only as good as your blade position and measurements but surprisingly fast and accurate. Perhaps more repeatable than trying to use an actual pitch gauge the K110. More accurate the bigger you go if your error margin in measuring accurately is the same.
Try 4cm and see how it feels in punch outs and climbing into the wind. Is it enough for you and does it bog the motor when you do a pitch pump or punch out?
I like about 5cm collective on the K110 for 3D or flying in wind. Above that on a stock K110 is gonna bog the motor on punchouts. K130 I like a 6cm gap before punchouts bog which is pretty aggressive at full stick but it's only there if you need it.
Made the adjustment - frightening that the blades were way off before the adjustment! I’m used to flying using a DX8 and Blade helis. As far as Expo is concerned what do you recommend and which axis do the numbers 1, 2 and 5 correspond to? Thanks.
@@heliflyer7185 I believe i's Aileron, Elevator and Rudder for channel order. I don't use any expo on the XK helis right now in main flight modes but there's no right number - I'd try 10 and 30 and see what feels good to you for how you fly. With XK and Futaba, negative expo makes it softer round mid stick, opposite to Walkera and Spektrum where positive expo would do the same.
When you set your swashplate type do you set it as 90 or 120? I can't get it to fly level on the 120 setting
In regards to the XK X6, it needs to be 90 degrees for swash type in the transmitter.
@@MicroRCFiend thank you, nobody else could clear that up for me. It seemed odd, but it seemed to be the only way it worked. Thank you again
Now to adjust throttle curves and such, I'm new to this and look forward to a non windy day to try acro again
@@aerialcombat If you run it in idle up (constant throttle rpm) rather than normal mode (rpm changes with throttle position) it will fly much better in wind. More cyclic stability and much better tail holding especially when descending. You can still fly idle up without neg pitch if you need to but a little bit neg and full pos will help it not get swept away in wind too.
@@MicroRCFiend thank you, I'll look into that next!
I am looking at getting one of the xk k1?? Micro helicopters. I fly multirota and just starting with planes ( not very good at the moment) which one would you recommend for a beginner. Would you also get the transmitter. I have a frsky with multi protocol module. Thanks Michael
K110 without doubt for a first CP heli, flies great, durable, cheap and if you decide helis are for you, a perfect collective management trainer before moving up to something less durable and more powerful.
If you are running open TX and support Futaba via a module, I see no reason why you need another TX. I have a model file I created that goes from super tame to very agile if you have any issues setting it up.
@@MicroRCFiend thankyou for your time. I will get the k110 and use one of your links. Would you recommend any spares to order at the same time.
@@MicroRCFiend Just ordered one thank you for the advice.
@@bigg1smalls You get a main gear and blades in the box but if ordering from BG - extra main gears, spare skids, a larger K120 tail blade and main shaft bearings as the lower one can come out with the main gear would be what i'd go for.
The whole tail unit with boom, motor and connector on ebay is under £3.20 which is cheaper than BG's spares for each part and almost a 3rd the price of their tail assembly.www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durable-Tail-Motor-Set-Fit-For-WLtoys-K110-RC-Helicopter-Replacement-Spare-Parts/401740764478?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
HK nano for nine eagles are hard to beat on cost or weight but need polarity swapping before safe to plug in. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-1s-45-90c-lipo-pack-fits-nine-eagles-solo-pro-100.html
Nice, hope you dig it.
Hello does you xk k110 settings file work in a 2020 jumper t12 pro open tx?
In theory it should work on anything running open TX. It was created on the TX so needs to be loaded via sd card/restore model function. Let me know if it works please.
@@MicroRCFiend hello i bought a jumper t12 pro but your settings file for xk k110 you sent me will not work in this new version.the hobby shop was able to down load settings and programme manually.once bonded the servo arms pulled down.could you please send me your email address so I can send you photos of what it looks like.very hard to explain
@@andrewberdo3903 I have to admit i'm a bit confused with your message, perhaps I misunderstand. How did the hobbyshop know my settings to programme the heli manually if they cannot view the file? If they are able to programme manually, could they not set it up for you? Please elaborate on full process.
To be clear...
What version of open TX is it running?
Were you able to put the file on sd card and use the restore model function?
Is there a model entry called 'MRCF K110' on your transmitter now?
@@MicroRCFiend hello I'm not to smart on understanding what the hobby man did.ive only had 1 year in flying rc helicopters.they said they could read the file but could not transfer it onto a sd card.it flies well but when it is on the ground the 3 servo arms are down by about 5mm.
@@andrewberdo3903 Ok so if it flies without issue, I presume the file called 'mrcf k110' is loaded and selected. Please confirm if this is not the case.
Otherwise, if i flies ok but you have different TX a few things could be the reason.
First guess is that you possibly have the transmitter in idle up mode and throttle at the lowest position. This will give the heli maximum negative pitch and result in servos being as you have described. Please answer some more questions to allow me to understand...
Important first step is to establish if throttle hold works and which switch on your transmitter that is. For me it is far back left switch. If it is engaged, the throttle will not work when throttle stick is moved. Very Important to ensure throttle hold is engaged before next steps.
Once throttle hold is active you are safe to try following things. If you are not sure, remove the main blades from the heli.
Now move the throttle stick to the centre. Are servo arms now level at right angle to servo case and parallel to the ground?
Does the motor rpm increase with throttle stick?
Does motor stop with throttle at lowest position?