Oh, the memories!! In my school the milling machine was next to a window. We were employment guarantees for the maintenance people. They finally got smart and covered it with a piece of plywood. Great lesson, Mr. Pete! Thank you.
TH-cam is like a backwards time machine. You can go back but you can't go forward... I think I spend too much time watching Mr. Pete's videos!!! They are so fun too watch!!!
I hope you get extra credit on this Mr. Pete, I finished watching this and realized I had already watched it some time back. Old guys are easy to entertain, give them 6 months and they watch it like it was their first time. I enjoyed it as much this time as last time.
Mr. Pete, when I was in basic training, my Drill Sargent would yell, "Is Everyone Happy?" And we were required to recite an inappropriate ditty, That was 40 years ago and when you said it in this episode, I automatically recited that ditty. My wife looked at in shock and horror. Thanks for the memories.
I purchased a 10' Atlas lathe and a mid sized Grizzly mill about a year and a half ago and you have been such a help in teaching me how to put both tools to good use. Thank you for the time and effort that you put in to making these videos.
Pete, I didn't know that you have produced over 1000 machine shop vids but I'm not surprised. IN FACT, I'm doing my best to watch "ALL" of them! They consistently achieve a "Like" rating. S. Florida Chris S.
Thank you Mr Pete. I appreciate you going to great lengths to teach us multiple ways of doing things. You take care of yourself and I will see you in the next video you put out.
When machining a hexagon the distance across the flats multiplied by .866(sin 60 degrees) will give you the distance across points. If you make it 10 or 15 thousandths smaller, a nice corner will be left.
@@mrpete222 I predict a bed mountable mini crane to move the rotary table on and off the Bridgeport within a year of this video upload. I have that 'gift' of foreseeing the future.
when you come up through school, not for all , but a lot of us , you come to love some teachers. well, i love this one i hope you guys do to can't say i ever said that about a male teacher. until now i'm in love with the time he is from and the fact that they could take what was on paper and make it happen, nowadays everybody needs a damn computer to help them get there. and would be lost without it. if anything serious happens to our kind we'ed all be lost without men like this.
@@paulatkins894 you do know pointing that out just makes you a dick- head right? i'm not the guy you need to piss off . your welcome to say what you like just not to me
Many times a *separate* (hardened) washer has the advantage of allowing the nut to spin, without moving the alignment of what is being clamped, especially if one lubes only the nut-washer interface and not the clamping side of the washer.
Yes sir, I am Happy as long as you are still making these great videos! And yes, I have made flange nuts but always enjoy your commentary and humor! Your channel is a great resource for brushing up on a technique and as a reference as well. Keep 'em coming Mr. Pete!
Hi Lyle, I have the 25th edition of the Machinery Hanbook, and it has the flange nut dimensions but only for metric, in the 25 edition it is on page 1470. In the index, it is listed under "nuts", "ANSI, metric dimensions" "hex, flanged". I would be surprised if they had omitted it completely by edition 30. I think you used some poetic licence on needing a bob cat to move your cincinatti dividing head, I have a cincinatti dividing head and I agree you have to be a very strong man to lift it onto the table unaided. I would agree that it would cost more to make than buy, in Oz, they are around $10 plus 10% GST for 2. Regards Dennis
yea! For the pleasure of watching it be done . Thank you. Then the manufacturers go and taper the flange . Add a centering taper that almost removes the extra thread available to the nut with a deeper cross section due to the inclusion of a flange. Yur an interesting ol' bugger, I love sitting through your lecture and sometimes even fall into a sleep state where I listen to every word but realize my deep subconscious is your student ,at the time I stretch my eyes open against the natural tendency to completely drop off? I find youtube is a greater establishment for the content you provide Pete. Thanks again man. Great quality tuition at no extra cost.
Thanks Mate, The gift of being able to teach has been bestowed upon you. Lucky fellow. Many can do but only guys like you can teach. Thank you. With this vid i have finely decided which device to buy to make nuts on my mill. The rotary table nearly won the race but after this vid an indexing device has been found online. Before your vid my tool shop only offered very expensive heads i didnt want. Its a deep hole this 'at home' machine shop. I thought id buy a mini lathe but instead i got a got a heavy 600mm lathe and a seperate massive mill drill so now i need a bigger workshop. With your help and knowledge i willl now make uniform sized nuts just like this vid so i dont have to use different spanners on each machine. Thanks Mate, thanks from all of us. We do need this knowledge and appreciate your gift of being able to teach your skills to us.
That Hardinge super spacer you have looks sweet, you always have such awesome plunder. I really enjoy you showing different setups and operations it adds tremendous value to those who are equipment limited and is such a great teaching resource, Tubalcain.
Thanks for making the video, nice techniques. For anyone that does not want to make flange nuts, they are available at McMaster.com, they sell grade 8, grade 5, and low strength nuts, metric and imperial. Bridgeport mill tee slots are 5/8”, and the studs in my kit are 1/2-13 thread. I always wipe my drill bits off after use before returning to the rack. If you lay some covers on your mill table, makes it a lot easier to clean, not so many chips in the t-slots.
I always enjoy the videos and the different technics used to make the same parts...Made my very first steam engine from MR Pete's excellent narrative and instructions...Always a learning process, enjoy all of them...Thank you MR Pete Bob
Dear Mr. Pete, God forbid, but if in 50 years you should move to a heavenly address, I do hope you have provided instructions (in your will) for a family member as to how to preserve these treasured videos on TH-cam. What a blessing they are to the rest of us to have your lifetime of machining experience available to us! You are a masterful teacher, and these 1000+ videos must be preserved for all time. You are leaving a precious legacy, a wealth of information, and an inspiring example of what young machinists can become. May your remaining 50 years be filled with blessings and perhaps another 1000 videos!!! Thank you!
@@mrpete222 Made me laugh! I started off being a high school metal shop teacher back in 1977, but after a few years got lured away by the "big money" at Boeing. (And 2 years later laid off with 60,000 others - in hindsight, a bad decision). But as a youth I was inspired by good shop teachers, worked as a shop teacher, and I know good one when I see one - you're tops! Whether you have 50 minutes, 50 days or 50 years - your experience is a gift and needs to be preserved!
Great video once again! Since several of us older shop guys have tons of time, it would make sense to make several of each size before changing setup. I'd also add, the machining practice is worth more than money! Thanks again Mr. Pete.
One of your best videos. I really like the way you explain the setups in great detail, and you always tell us about alternative ways of doing it. Interesting to the end, even for just making a nut!
the locking lever on the hardinge should have spring inside to lock it out so it wont turn on accident . most machine shops still have those and are used a lot because it can be clamped in a vise, quick and easy
I don't own any machining equipment ( yet !! i am looking at a lathe and mill to add to my shop )...so i am watching for education and knowledge of how you do this... very interesting and entertaining... i have bought lots of Fasteners in my 50+ years ( 65 yrs old ) of work and hobby needs... i buy nuts like that from speciality fastener stores... They are common stock items ( well they used to be !! ) and would be the cheapest solution in my case.. but this is something you could easily do in a I need it NOW ... and have the skills and tools ( and material ) to get er dun !! 👍
Honestly please don't cut anything out, the information you're providing is utterly priceless and takes me back to when I was a kid talking about these things with my dad uncles and granddad in the kitchen (all engineers/machinists) you may feel like you're teaching us to suck eggs but some might not know, and if they do they can skip it...personally I could just listen to you talking about this for hours. I wanted to ask though how is it that you get the chamfer on the top of the flange leading away from the flats of the hexagon without breaking into them like it is on your example nuts? and does it matter if the flange is just flat like in your finished ones.
Neat video. Nothing I love more than making something I need out of scrap, rather than buying it. Even if takes me double the time, and cost more. It's still worth it the next time I use it knowing I didn't have to buy it. And knowing its mine, made by my own know how and effort. Very satisfying to me.
I have something like that Hardinge, picked it up cheap on Ebay, before I watched your videos I never knew such things existed. This is a great project Mr Pete.
if using washers, you really want to use hardened fender washers. Not overly expensive (50-75 cents each) just hard to find unless you go to a specialty fastener supply
Good job with flange nuts. We used to use castlenuts on the railroad, so you could cutter pin them in place.You still have all ten fingers, so good for you!
I like flange nuts, and these ones you've made are great. Maybe on a future video, you could show how to make nuts with captive washers. Like a flange nut, but the washer can slip. These are great for when the nut is clamping something of soft material.
You can use a hex block and threaded stud. Make sure you squeeze it in the vise along the Y axis and clamp the nut against the back jaw. The wood is simply the indexer and a hardwood hex block wont break. Joe Pieczynski just did this exact same video on a much smaller scale. Inspiration? As for the washer question, floating washers have less chance of damaging the contact surface.
One of the best things about making your own washer nuts is you can standardize your parts to use as few wrench sizes as possible. My lathe has all the commonly used fasteners converted to 9/16 heads. I have bolts with flange heads that are 1/4- 20 with a 9/16 head. One wrench does it all.
Another great video. I have thought about making a set of left hand thread bolts and nuts to see if that would stop others from borrowing. Maybe a five sided nut. I also hate dirty drills. It doesn't take that long to clean any tool before you return it to your tool box. But I would rather have a dirty tool than no tool returned. I really hate collecting borrowed tools.
I have a part off tool I made with the end ground 30 degree angle to chamfer nut corners but also with another 30 degree angle back up the tool shank a little to chamfer internal threads. No top rake but with front clearance on the internal chamfering part. Makes for neater chamfers than hand filing external corners or using a drill tip by hand on internal threads. . Other suggestion when making nuts is to leave tapping the hole until after parting off so tapping swarf gets pushed forward and you tap to final size in the one pass. Saves material or having to use the three tap sizes down a blind hole. Trust this helps!
My favorite part about flange nuts or bolts is being able to put them in my socket and start them easily. You can thrust on them and push your parts together.
Thanks for another great video, I love all of your videos, you’re such a great teacher! Stop apologizing about little things. I think anybody that leaves negative comments are just jealous.
Funny you post this today. I made a couple nuts today to hold down my rotary table. I wanted a 7/8 Hex with a 1/2” thread but a bigger flange face than a standard nut. Was a fun project with my 8yr old son.
Worth doing this job if you need nuts that are special titanium nuts or bolts. I sometimes have to remake a nut that (due to rust) has lost it's edges. This is the case mostly on classic cars that have those unusually sized octagon nuts. somewhere between modern sizes.
I use prime factorization to decide the plate to use. 6 is 2 * 3. You have 2 from the gear reduction(2*2), so you can pick any ring of holes that's a multiple of 3. You have those on each plate, so you wouldn't need to change plates regardless. 15, 21, 39, and 48 would all work, using every 10th, 14th, 26th, or 32nd hole respectively. Basically your method, but simplify the first 4/6 down to 2/3 first.
Old Ag class text books are a good source for simple "farmer fixes," one of those being square nuts from flat bar. The other, for me, was the basics in using a metal lathe. Something in this reminded me of that, so, I'm throwing it out there ... for what it's worth.
Watching for Pleasure ? Well it's Lunchtime viewing here - and this kinda learning IS Pleasure. .... but it is the accumulated experience from viewing - + the extras we get - like that broken Walter Table. Yes, I never thought of the jacking off to break surface. Thanks. Now personally, I prefer to have to use as few spanners around the Lathe and Bridgeport as possible , so making new Nuts for me is a case of Standardising Nut sizes regardless of thread size. and I have brazed Heavy washers on - found less distortion than welding. Just sweated on. Great - Thanks for posting. Keep on milling!
God made man in charge of the home mostly for the fact he can buy what tools he needs! Seriously though you tell her it is to make her life easier so you don’t have to keep complaining about not having them. Yes, I am sure that must be it.... :-)
Great tips. Now a retired sparky but if I had to choice another trade I would pick machinist. While doing work in a lot of machine shops & tool & die shops the great talented guys bailed.me out. One weekend when probably 45 minutes from home I needed a 3/8" falling tool for 3/8" lead anchors. Machinist made one in no time. Still have it. Messed up threads on my hydraulic knockout set and supply house did not have a replacement stud in stock. Somehow they placed it in lathe and guess you call it " chased the threads ". Knockout at least 50 holes with it that weekend.
Nice video! If I were making the nuts I would make the blanks twice the length of the nut height plus the cutoff width and a little more for facing stock. Then mill one side of the blanks and turn end for end and mill the other end, moving on to cutoff and face. Yes, drill blank before milling. Tapping by using a fixture/jig, whereby the nut is slid into a slot the width of the hex (loose fit) under the tap, the up retention by the washer in its slot. This is a very simple procedure, difficult to put into words. This is a production method. Start with first nut and push it through with the second nut and on and on. Just another way, JIM
Is true buy the nuts is cheap and easy internet or supplies but some time we have no time to wait for not only the nuts is so many tooling parts we can make easy thanks to the videos informative from you and others who freely shows how and way. Thanks again for your time
I made my flange nuts buy using a piece of stock with a stud screwed into it... I cut all the nut blanks, threaded them and screwed them onto the arbor mounted in the dividing head chuck.. I tightened the nut blanks with a stilsen wrench in the area to be machined and ran the machine in such a way as to tighten the blank on the stud as it was being cut...When the flats were finished, removed nut with wrench.. Same type of threaded arbor in the lathe chuck to finish the nuts after flats are cut.. Case harden in Kasenit then blacken with tool black.....I made tee nuts as well for my Kearney and Trecker machines as the tee slots are larger than Bridgeport size.. Mike in Louisiana
That sounds like a brilliant alternative idea. I bet they turned out great. I was going to case harden mine. But the video was already way too long. What kind of black solution do you use?
@@mrpete222 Precision Brand 45110 Tool Black.. Stuff is about 80 bucks a quart but it will last a long time for small parts.. I am sure it is selenium like most gun blues.....As far as Kasenit, I don't think you can buy that stuff anymore.. Mike in Louisiana
I don't believe there is a way to run the machine in such a way as to tighten the blank on the stud unless you were using a left hand cutter...am I crazy here? Whether conventional or climb milling, the cutter is still pushing the nut in counter clockwise direction.
@@1967Twotone I usually end mill the flats but have on occasion used a left handed end mill on the side.. I usually tighten the hell out of the blank with a stilsen wrench then mill flats where the wrench marks are...Remove with box end wrench.. Mike in Louisiana.....
Thanks for that Lyle, most informative and I will be using the rotary table method to make a much larger nut than I have at the moment for locking my Multifix tool post on my lathe. ( at the moment it is an M10 x 1.5 m.m. Metric and I am going to go up to 14 mm if I can get a tap easily if not it will have to be M12 )
I have some flange nuts with convex faces and mating washers with a concave face on one side. They are handy bolting down castings, etc., on the machine table or face plate as they will self align to an uneven surface. Cheers from NC/USA
I prefer to use a standard nut and a separate washer under it, because the washer remains stationary when the nut above is rotated. The problem of a flange nut is it's tendency to walk because the flange rotates as well and thus it moves the clamping iron or a workpiece underneath.
Love your videos. The one thing I would suggest, as seen in the factory nuts, is to chamfer the inner edges as well. A specially the one below the flange as it will make it a lot easier to get started especially if in a blind area.
Nice job! I'm pretty sure flange nuts were in the 29th edition of Machinery's; I'm really surprised that they're not there in the 30th. I'm a bit surprised you don't have a prime factors table for your plates. That's generally the fastest way to figure out what a good plate will be. Find the prime factors of the division you wish to make and then just find the first circle that contains at least those factors. In your case, 6 is 2×3, which are prime. The head ratio is 4:1, ie 2×2, so that gives you the two. The first circle that has a three in it would be 15, 3×5. With the 15 hole circle and the 4:1 reduction you have total factors of 2×2×3×5. So if we take out the two and the three we need, that leaves 2×5 behind, meaning every 10 holes. Choosing the 18 hole circle, that's 2×3×3, giving total factors of 2×2×2×3×3. The leftover factors are 2×2×3, so you want to skip 12 holes per step with that circle.
OK, but how could you get the ripples on the bottom to make it a lock nut too? I imagine in the industry it is all made in two operations- one is to drop forge the shape and hex and two the threading on a cnc with autoload. But in a home shop is there a way?
If possible I prefer flange nuts and spherical washers I have one of the Hardinge H-4 indexers. The spindle and the bearing bore are tapered. The retaining nut needs to be set to practically zero end play so you can just turn the shaft to index the part. Properly set they are rock solid. The index pin should be spring loaded. Yhe Cincinnatti and Kearney and Trecker dividing heads we had at work were 5 : 1 ratios.
In our high school machine shop, we had to make all our own notes, bolts, and washers. That looks like a fun project. Sadly, at work, you have to weigh shop hours vs how much it costs to buy things. So I would never be able to make something like that.
This was a fascinating video on how to make flange nuts, really enjoyed it. You assisted me (last year about this time) in the research of a 12" Craftsman lathe I eventually purchased. It's been disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled - looks much better that when purchased as it was covered in years of grime. My question for you today is about a 4 jaw chuck (it came with a 3 jaw). Can you recommend a brand of 4 jaw to use with this lathe that would be the appropriate size for it's swing? Is it better to purchase this through eBay or from a recognized supplier. Living in western Canada we do not have access to many local tool suppliers for metal work that sell Quality items. Do you ever sell any of your 4 jaw chucks for the Craftsman? Thank you again for your excellent videos. As a subscriber to your channel I look forward to each of your videos and repeatedly use many of your past videos as references. Thanks again for your attention to detail and quality.
Oh, the memories!! In my school the milling machine was next to a window. We were employment guarantees for the maintenance people. They finally got smart and covered it with a piece of plywood. Great lesson, Mr. Pete! Thank you.
They broke out many a window in the welding shop
TH-cam is like a backwards time machine. You can go back but you can't go forward... I think I spend too much time watching Mr. Pete's videos!!! They are so fun too watch!!!
👍👍👍👍
I hope you get extra credit on this Mr. Pete, I finished watching this and realized I had already watched it some time back. Old guys are easy to entertain, give them 6 months and they watch it like it was their first time. I enjoyed it as much this time as last time.
👍👍
Mr. Pete, when I was in basic training, my Drill Sargent would yell, "Is Everyone Happy?" And we were required to recite an inappropriate ditty, That was 40 years ago and when you said it in this episode, I automatically recited that ditty. My wife looked at in shock and horror. Thanks for the memories.
lol that's the grit in you and it's welcome. grr.
Can we hear the ditty? :-D
voron11000 perhaps better not, we don't want the video to get demonetized ;)
@@LambertZero You probably know it.. LOL
@@modtwentyeight If drill sergeants teach it, I probably don't. :-)
I purchased a 10' Atlas lathe and a mid sized Grizzly mill about a year and a half ago and you have been such a help in teaching me how to put both tools to good use. Thank you for the time and effort that you put in to making these videos.
Thanks
I really appreciate the varying methods presented to achieve the same result. Not to mention providing information about reference materials.
Thanks
Pete, I didn't know that you have produced over 1000 machine shop vids but I'm not surprised. IN FACT, I'm doing my best to watch "ALL" of them! They consistently achieve a "Like" rating.
S. Florida
Chris S.
Thanks 👍👍
Thank you Mr Pete.
I appreciate you going to great lengths to teach us multiple ways of doing things. You take care of yourself and I will see you in the next video you put out.
Thanks
When machining a hexagon the distance across the flats multiplied by .866(sin 60 degrees) will give you the distance across points. If you make it 10 or 15 thousandths smaller, a nice corner will be left.
nice work I enjoyed following along.
👌
This Old Tony Tony!!! Another guy I follow! Two of my favs on one comment! God bless you both!
Hi tony
@@mrpete222
I predict a bed mountable mini crane to move the rotary table on and off the Bridgeport within a year of this video upload. I have that 'gift' of foreseeing the future.
when you come up through school, not for all , but a lot of us , you come to love some teachers. well, i love this one i hope you guys do to
can't say i ever said that about a male teacher. until now i'm in love with the time he is from and the fact that they could take what was on paper and make it happen, nowadays everybody needs a damn computer to help them get there. and would be lost without it. if anything serious happens to our kind we'ed all be lost without men like this.
Yes , He is special.
@@johnm840 thank for your reply
by the way im guilty of the computer thing so i'm not pointing fingers just recognizing the shame in that.
Threw?
@@paulatkins894 you do know pointing that out just makes you a dick- head right? i'm not the guy you need to piss off . your welcome to say what you like just not to me
Hi Mr Pete! It is a pleasure to watch you at work. Educating and calm at the same time. Please keep up.
Thanks once again I love your video, please keep making them. I don’t think you know how much you are love by everybody
Thanks 👍👍
I agree! Everyone I talk shop tools or machining with knows him! Bravo!
Many times a *separate* (hardened) washer has the advantage of allowing the nut to spin, without moving the alignment of what is being clamped, especially if one lubes only the nut-washer interface and not the clamping side of the washer.
Yes sir, I am Happy as long as you are still making these great videos! And yes, I have made flange nuts but always enjoy your commentary and humor! Your channel is a great resource for brushing up on a technique and as a reference as well. Keep 'em coming Mr. Pete!
👍👍
Good Morning. You are like Mr. Rodgers for home machinists. Always teaching!!! Good Job.
I can’t thank you enough. I asked you a couple of weeks ago if you could do this video and here it is. You are fantastic. Thanks!
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Once again our "Mr Pete" dazzles us with things that are so helpful. Thank you kind Sir.
Hi Lyle,
I have the 25th edition of the Machinery Hanbook, and it has the flange nut dimensions but only for metric, in the 25 edition it is on page 1470. In the index, it is listed under "nuts", "ANSI, metric dimensions" "hex, flanged".
I would be surprised if they had omitted it completely by edition 30.
I think you used some poetic licence on needing a bob cat to move your cincinatti dividing head, I have a cincinatti dividing head and I agree you have to be a very strong man to lift it onto the table unaided.
I would agree that it would cost more to make than buy, in Oz, they are around $10 plus 10% GST for 2.
Regards Dennis
Thanks for showing both the indexing head and the rotary table methods.
yea! For the pleasure of watching it be done . Thank you. Then the manufacturers go and taper the flange . Add a centering taper that almost removes the extra thread available to the nut with a deeper cross section due to the inclusion of a flange. Yur an interesting ol' bugger, I love sitting through your lecture and sometimes even fall into a sleep state where I listen to every word but realize my deep subconscious is your student ,at the time I stretch my eyes open against the natural tendency to completely drop off? I find youtube is a greater establishment for the content you provide Pete. Thanks again man. Great quality tuition at no extra cost.
Thank you very much, I am so glad you like my videos
Thank you Mr. Pete. Always a pleasure when we get a chance to visit. Love the humor
Thanks
Thanks Mate,
The gift of being able to teach has been bestowed upon you. Lucky fellow. Many can do but only guys like you can teach. Thank you.
With this vid i have finely decided which device to buy to make nuts on my mill. The rotary table nearly won the race but after this vid an indexing device has been found online. Before your vid my tool shop only offered very expensive heads i didnt want. Its a deep hole this 'at home' machine shop. I thought id buy a mini lathe but instead i got a got a heavy 600mm lathe and a seperate massive mill drill so now i need a bigger workshop. With your help and knowledge i willl now make uniform sized nuts just like this vid so i dont have to use different spanners on each machine.
Thanks Mate, thanks from all of us. We do need this knowledge and appreciate your gift of being able to teach your skills to us.
Thank you very very much for the compliment. Good luck with your indexing device. Sounds like you have a nice shop.
That Hardinge super spacer you have looks sweet, you always have such awesome plunder. I really enjoy you showing different setups and operations it adds tremendous value to those who are equipment limited and is such a great teaching resource, Tubalcain.
Thanks for making the video, nice techniques. For anyone that does not want to make flange nuts, they are available at McMaster.com, they sell grade 8, grade 5, and low strength nuts, metric and imperial. Bridgeport mill tee slots are 5/8”, and the studs in my kit are 1/2-13 thread. I always wipe my drill bits off after use before returning to the rack. If you lay some covers on your mill table, makes it a lot easier to clean, not so many chips in the t-slots.
I always enjoy the videos and the different technics used to make the same parts...Made my very first steam engine from MR Pete's excellent narrative and instructions...Always a learning process, enjoy all of them...Thank you MR Pete Bob
Thank you very much
Dear Mr. Pete, God forbid, but if in 50 years you should move to a heavenly address, I do hope you have provided instructions (in your will) for a family member as to how to preserve these treasured videos on TH-cam. What a blessing they are to the rest of us to have your lifetime of machining experience available to us! You are a masterful teacher, and these 1000+ videos must be preserved for all time. You are leaving a precious legacy, a wealth of information, and an inspiring example of what young machinists can become. May your remaining 50 years be filled with blessings and perhaps another 1000 videos!!! Thank you!
Thank you very much indeed. I think you are overrating me. And never mind the 50 years, it might only be 50 days.
@@mrpete222 Made me laugh! I started off being a high school metal shop teacher back in 1977, but after a few years got lured away by the "big money" at Boeing. (And 2 years later laid off with 60,000 others - in hindsight, a bad decision). But as a youth I was inspired by good shop teachers, worked as a shop teacher, and I know good one when I see one - you're tops! Whether you have 50 minutes, 50 days or 50 years - your experience is a gift and needs to be preserved!
Great video once again! Since several of us older shop guys have tons of time, it would make sense to make several of each size before changing setup. I'd also add, the machining practice is worth more than money! Thanks again Mr. Pete.
Yes
I might not have the equipment yet but I now have the knowledge of how to make flange nuts. Thanks again Mr Pete.
👍
One of your best videos. I really like the way you explain the setups in great detail, and you always tell us about alternative ways of doing it. Interesting to the end, even for just making a nut!
Thanks
the locking lever on the hardinge should have spring inside to lock it out so it wont turn on accident . most machine shops still have those and are used a lot because it can be clamped in a vise, quick and easy
Nice little project....always enjoy side story's and rants. That's a nice set of nuts. 😁
👍
I don't own any machining equipment ( yet !! i am looking at a lathe and mill to add to my shop )...so i am watching for education and knowledge of how you do this... very interesting and entertaining... i have bought lots of Fasteners in my 50+ years ( 65 yrs old ) of work and hobby needs... i buy nuts like that from speciality fastener stores... They are common stock items ( well they used to be !! ) and would be the cheapest solution in my case.. but this is something you could easily do in a I need it NOW ... and have the skills and tools ( and material ) to get er dun !! 👍
I like both designs flange and washer. Problem with the standard nuts is finding the washers. Good morning Lyle, thanks for the video.
Steve Summers have to just make em lol
Honestly please don't cut anything out, the information you're providing is utterly priceless and takes me back to when I was a kid talking about these things with my dad uncles and granddad in the kitchen (all engineers/machinists) you may feel like you're teaching us to suck eggs but some might not know, and if they do they can skip it...personally I could just listen to you talking about this for hours.
I wanted to ask though how is it that you get the chamfer on the top of the flange leading away from the flats of the hexagon without breaking into them like it is on your example nuts? and does it matter if the flange is just flat like in your finished ones.
Thank you for watching and commenting. There are a lot of different ways of making this item
Great video. Nice to share all the methods of different rotary tables. Thank you for sharing.
Neat video. Nothing I love more than making something I need out of scrap, rather than buying it. Even if takes me double the time, and cost more. It's still worth it the next time I use it knowing I didn't have to buy it. And knowing its mine, made by my own know how and effort. Very satisfying to me.
👍👍👍👍
I have something like that Hardinge, picked it up cheap on Ebay, before I watched your videos I never knew such things existed. This is a great project Mr Pete.
Mr Pete when setting a vice on mill table.
I prefer washer because it is stationery.
Flange nuts moves item your tightening down.
good point
if using washers, you really want to use hardened fender washers. Not overly expensive (50-75 cents each) just hard to find unless you go to a specialty fastener supply
Geoff Flato
Thanks
That’s what I use.
Enjoy Mr Pete and his videos.
All the best
Ge
Could use both! Washer to isolate and flange nut to spread the load.
Dude, it's a VISE.
Went back to this video today to remind myself how to make flange nuts. Thanks Mr. Pete.
I always wondered about dividing heads. Thank you for the excellent tutrial Professor Pete.
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Good job with flange nuts. We used to use castlenuts on the railroad, so you could cutter pin them in place.You still have all ten fingers, so good for you!
I like flange nuts, and these ones you've made are great. Maybe on a future video, you could show how to make nuts with captive washers. Like a flange nut, but the washer can slip. These are great for when the nut is clamping something of soft material.
I'm still amazed at what you guys accomplished through the years, using the imperial system. Well done.
Yes, the greatest industrial country in the world
You can use a hex block and threaded stud. Make sure you squeeze it in the vise along the Y axis and clamp the nut against the back jaw. The wood is simply the indexer and a hardwood hex block wont break. Joe Pieczynski just did this exact same video on a much smaller scale. Inspiration? As for the washer question, floating washers have less chance of damaging the contact surface.
One of the best things about making your own washer nuts is you can standardize your parts to use as few wrench sizes as possible. My lathe has all the commonly used fasteners converted to 9/16 heads. I have bolts with flange heads that are 1/4- 20 with a 9/16 head. One wrench does it all.
I like flanged nuts because they don't disappear into a deep socket, the flange of course prevents this.
Very interesting to see how it's done. Like watching your videos. Very much appreciated for them mr Pete 👍
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Another great video. I have thought about making a set of left hand thread bolts and nuts to see if that would stop others from borrowing. Maybe a five sided nut. I also hate dirty drills. It doesn't take that long to clean any tool before you return it to your tool box. But I would rather have a dirty tool than no tool returned. I really hate collecting borrowed tools.
Yes
I have a part off tool I made with the end ground 30 degree angle to chamfer nut corners but also with another 30 degree angle back up the tool shank a little to chamfer internal threads. No top rake but with front clearance on the internal chamfering part. Makes for neater chamfers than hand filing external corners or using a drill tip by hand on internal threads. . Other suggestion when making nuts is to leave tapping the hole until after parting off so tapping swarf gets pushed forward and you tap to final size in the one pass. Saves material or having to use the three tap sizes down a blind hole. Trust this helps!
I feel cheated that this wasn’t offered at my high school. Amazing channel, I enjoy learning things here!
Thanks
Excellent video Mr. Pete, showing different methods making the same style nut, very well done!
My favorite part about flange nuts or bolts is being able to put them in my socket and start them easily. You can thrust on them and push your parts together.
Thanks for another great video, I love all of your videos, you’re such a great teacher! Stop apologizing about little things. I think anybody that leaves negative comments are just jealous.
Thank you for your support
Yes!!! We are Happy Mr. Pete !! 😉
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I am very happy Mr Pete and I do enjoy your videos
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Funny you post this today. I made a couple nuts today to hold down my rotary table. I wanted a 7/8 Hex with a 1/2” thread but a bigger flange face than a standard nut. Was a fun project with my 8yr old son.
That’s awesome
Worth doing this job if you need nuts that are special titanium nuts or bolts.
I sometimes have to remake a nut that (due to rust) has lost it's edges. This is the case mostly on classic cars that have those unusually sized octagon nuts. somewhere between modern sizes.
Thanks Mr Pete, another great Video. I’m glad you showed how to use the Dividing Head. I have one I have never used. I think I will give it a try now.
Yes
Very interesting video. Never even thought of machining these I'm going to give it a shot.
I use prime factorization to decide the plate to use. 6 is 2 * 3. You have 2 from the gear reduction(2*2), so you can pick any ring of holes that's a multiple of 3. You have those on each plate, so you wouldn't need to change plates regardless. 15, 21, 39, and 48 would all work, using every 10th, 14th, 26th, or 32nd hole respectively. Basically your method, but simplify the first 4/6 down to 2/3 first.
That’s a good explanation thank you. Trying to keep it as simple as possible, which is not easy
Old Ag class text books are a good source for simple "farmer fixes," one of those being square nuts from flat bar. The other, for me, was the basics in using a metal lathe. Something in this reminded me of that, so, I'm throwing it out there ... for what it's worth.
I remember the old textbooks for farmers. They did a lot of repairs back then, not so much now. It all goes to the John Deere dealership
As a cnc machinist that does lots and lots of setup in a day. I use both flange nuts and thick washers. it really keeps wear down on both parties.
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Watching for Pleasure ? Well it's Lunchtime viewing here - and this kinda learning IS Pleasure. .... but it is the accumulated experience from viewing - + the extras we get - like that broken Walter Table. Yes, I never thought of the jacking off to break surface. Thanks. Now personally, I prefer to have to use as few spanners around the Lathe and Bridgeport as possible , so making new Nuts for me is a case of Standardising Nut sizes regardless of thread size. and I have brazed Heavy washers on - found less distortion than welding. Just sweated on. Great - Thanks for posting. Keep on milling!
Thanks
So, now I can tell my wife that I need a milling machine and lathe to make flange nuts.
You don’t tell Her anything. You just buy them
Sell the wife and use money to buy tools with
God made man in charge of the home mostly for the fact he can buy what tools he needs! Seriously though you tell her it is to make her life easier so you don’t have to keep complaining about not having them. Yes, I am sure that must be it.... :-)
@@mrpete222 Yup - and used ones look older and become more invisable in the shop. Well a mill and lathe might be a bit obvious.
Milling machine is also useful in place of a Kitchen Aid.
You're just like my beloved old shop teacher.
Thanks Mr Pete, I shall make some tomorrow, always good to watch and learn from you.
Thanks
Super fun and interesting to see alternut ways to make them
Thank Mr Pete
I got an indexing head for my birthday last week. Guess what i'm going to do this afternoon. Flange nut of course.
Great tips. Now a retired sparky but if I had to choice another trade I would pick machinist. While doing work in a lot of machine shops & tool & die shops the great talented guys bailed.me out. One weekend when probably 45 minutes from home I needed a 3/8" falling tool for 3/8" lead anchors. Machinist made one in no time. Still have it. Messed up threads on my hydraulic knockout set and supply house did not have a replacement stud in stock. Somehow they placed it in lathe and guess you call it " chased the threads ". Knockout at least 50 holes with it that weekend.
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Thanx for the class on the divider Mr Pete
Making useful things that seem to get lost. Good! I’ve never seen that nut tap before.
I appreciate this video and all the work that goes into it. Thanks👍
Nice have a few missing so might just make some !! Thanks mr pete !!
I made some of these after you showed me how using the collic blocks. Thanks for the info.
Nice video! If I were making the nuts I would make the blanks twice the length of the nut height plus the cutoff width and a little more for facing stock. Then mill one side of the blanks and turn end for end and mill the other end, moving on to cutoff and face.
Yes, drill blank before milling. Tapping by using a fixture/jig, whereby the nut is slid into a slot the width of the hex (loose fit) under the tap, the up retention by the washer in its slot. This is a very simple procedure, difficult to put into words. This is a production method. Start with first nut and push it through with the second nut and on and on.
Just another way, JIM
Awesome Mr Pete thank you so much for sharing
Is true buy the nuts is cheap and easy internet or supplies but some time we have no time to wait for not only the nuts is so many tooling parts we can make easy thanks to the videos informative from you and others who freely shows how and way. Thanks again for your time
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A washer eliminates most of the possibility of the nut moving whatever is being tightened down, whereas a flange nut can move it when being tightened.
Lyle, that video was absolutely NUTS! Great stuff, thumbs up.
I made my flange nuts buy using a piece of stock with a stud screwed into it... I cut all the nut blanks, threaded them and screwed them onto the arbor mounted in the dividing head chuck.. I tightened the nut blanks with a stilsen wrench in the area to be machined and ran the machine in such a way as to tighten the blank on the stud as it was being cut...When the flats were finished, removed nut with wrench.. Same type of threaded arbor in the lathe chuck to finish the nuts after flats are cut.. Case harden in Kasenit then blacken with tool black.....I made tee nuts as well for my Kearney and Trecker machines as the tee slots are larger than Bridgeport size.. Mike in Louisiana
That sounds like a brilliant alternative idea. I bet they turned out great. I was going to case harden mine. But the video was already way too long. What kind of black solution do you use?
@@mrpete222 Precision Brand 45110 Tool Black.. Stuff is about 80 bucks a quart but it will last a long time for small parts.. I am sure it is selenium like most gun blues.....As far as Kasenit, I don't think you can buy that stuff anymore.. Mike in Louisiana
Brownells sells a "surface" hardening compound. Maybe when I run out of Kasenit and the chromium version of the same I'll buy some.
I don't believe there is a way to run the machine in such a way as to tighten the blank on the stud unless you were using a left hand cutter...am I crazy here?
Whether conventional or climb milling, the cutter is still pushing the nut in counter clockwise direction.
@@1967Twotone I usually end mill the flats but have on occasion used a left handed end mill on the side.. I usually tighten the hell out of the blank with a stilsen wrench then mill flats where the wrench marks are...Remove with box end wrench.. Mike in Louisiana.....
That was “clear as mud”....lol. Another Sat morn 5:00am in Mr Petes shop class👍😁🌞👏
Was perfect video over coffee while I was still waking up.
Exactly the time here and now in the UK.
Thanks for that Lyle, most informative and I will be using the rotary table method to make a much larger nut than I have at the moment for locking my Multifix tool post on my lathe. ( at the moment it is an M10 x 1.5 m.m. Metric and I am going to go up to 14 mm if I can get a tap easily if not it will have to be M12 )
Yes I. Happy !!! Learning , learning , learning methods and materials . Extreee good 😎👍
Great to hear!
Is there a reason you did not chamfer the threaded bore like the black oxide sample is done (both sides)? Fascinating to watch. Thanks for posting.
Informative and entertaining. Thank you Mr Pete
I have some flange nuts with convex faces and mating washers with a concave face on one side. They are handy bolting down castings, etc., on the machine table or face plate as they will self align to an uneven surface.
Cheers from NC/USA
Thank you, I have seen those in the catalogs
I prefer to use a standard nut and a separate washer under it, because the washer remains stationary when the nut above is rotated. The problem of a flange nut is it's tendency to walk because the flange rotates as well and thus it moves the clamping iron or a workpiece underneath.
I watched for the pure enjoyment of it, thank you.
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I tried to talk Randy Richards into doing this, but you made a very nice multiply nut project
Love your videos.
The one thing I would suggest, as seen in the factory nuts, is to chamfer the inner edges as well. A specially the one below the flange as it will make it a lot easier to get started especially if in a blind area.
Always entertaining Mr. Pete. I fortunately own a spinner, rotary table and 5c collet blocks so I have options.
I have an index spinner and collet blocks......I'd say setup a stop and use the collet blocks would make for a simple job.
22:37 Why, I do watch these videos of yours just for the pure pleasure. How did you know?
lol
Nice job! I'm pretty sure flange nuts were in the 29th edition of Machinery's; I'm really surprised that they're not there in the 30th.
I'm a bit surprised you don't have a prime factors table for your plates. That's generally the fastest way to figure out what a good plate will be. Find the prime factors of the division you wish to make and then just find the first circle that contains at least those factors.
In your case, 6 is 2×3, which are prime. The head ratio is 4:1, ie 2×2, so that gives you the two. The first circle that has a three in it would be 15, 3×5. With the 15 hole circle and the 4:1 reduction you have total factors of 2×2×3×5. So if we take out the two and the three we need, that leaves 2×5 behind, meaning every 10 holes. Choosing the 18 hole circle, that's 2×3×3, giving total factors of 2×2×2×3×3. The leftover factors are 2×2×3, so you want to skip 12 holes per step with that circle.
OK, but how could you get the ripples on the bottom to make it a lock nut too? I imagine in the industry it is all made in two operations- one is to drop forge the shape and hex and two the threading on a cnc with autoload. But in a home shop is there a way?
Nice work. What about brazing a washer on the nut and adjusting the diameter with the lathe ?
If possible I prefer flange nuts and spherical washers
I have one of the Hardinge H-4 indexers. The spindle and the bearing bore are tapered. The retaining nut needs to be set to practically zero end play so you can just turn the shaft to index the part. Properly set they are rock solid. The index pin should be spring loaded.
Yhe Cincinnatti and Kearney and Trecker dividing heads we had at work were 5 : 1 ratios.
In our high school machine shop, we had to make all our own notes, bolts, and washers. That looks like a fun project. Sadly, at work, you have to weigh shop hours vs how much it costs to buy things. So I would never be able to make something like that.
Great videos Mr Pete, think ive watched all your videos, keep them coming please.
Thanks
Flange nuts are my go to's as well. The type including the underside burrs tends to stay put best I've found.
This was a fascinating video on how to make flange nuts, really enjoyed it. You assisted me (last year about this time) in the research of a 12" Craftsman lathe I eventually purchased. It's been disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled - looks much better that when purchased as it was covered in years of grime. My question for you today is about a 4 jaw chuck (it came with a 3 jaw). Can you recommend a brand of 4 jaw to use with this lathe that would be the appropriate size for it's swing? Is it better to purchase this through eBay or from a recognized supplier. Living in western Canada we do not have access to many local tool suppliers for metal work that sell Quality items. Do you ever sell any of your 4 jaw chucks for the Craftsman? Thank you again for your excellent videos. As a subscriber to your channel I look forward to each of your videos and repeatedly use many of your past videos as references. Thanks again for your attention to detail and quality.