I like the DIY spirit to build something like this. However dealing with heating elements and the possibility of fire increases a lot. SUNLU S4 is for 4 filaments and only costs 119 euros at the moment. You can print right from it .
I took inspiration from your earlier videos and went total jank. Using a cardboard wine box, 2 120v "500" watt heaters, with built-in fans, from Amazon and a 10 amp temperature controller, also from Amazon, I was able to dry ABS at 75 C. For insulation, I used a drop cloth from Harbor Freight, folded and draped over the box.
The sovol SH02 is at this moment for sale at sovol, for $59.99. so if you buy 2 of those you are at the same price tag. Although I love this project. But it shows once again that a real diy can hardly compete with the industry they buy in bulk. Just like IKEA, I cannot make furniture for their prices. only higher quality for a higher price Oh and the sovol dryer is probably built in China. kind regards Hans
as a heater element you could try a reptile heat mat, less than $10 they are cheap and come in all sorts of sizes, also a plant propagator heat mat, usually more expensive but waterproof that also come in all shapes and sizes.
So how would taking a 3d printer heat bed puting it bottom taking the thermistor and putting near top of box. And using 3d printer control board and screen to control it. I'd use 24v set up to get a hotter area. If lucky you could have tevo tornado heat bed that pulls 110v and should more than get hot enough. Add computer fans to circulate the air
Could you explain more about the steam escape and the one at the bottom for the "convection flow". So I have seen many things (IE my pressure cooker) have valves at the top to slowly release steam. But that's high pressure steam. Why is a simple valve at the top helping release humidity/steam from the box? And I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by "convection flow" like what kind of air is coming in through that valve? How does it help dry filament more efficiently? And I cant quite tell are those heating elements outside or inside of the box?
The heating element is inside the box. What you see on the outside is just the electronics control board. Since hot air rises, I added two holes to the box that I can open. One low and one high. The upper hole lets the hot steam escape so it does not remain trapped in the box. To help it vent faster, the lower hole lets cooler room air flow into the box. This creates a convection current through the box from the lower hole to the upper hole, allowing the moist air to be removed. Hope this helps.
Great video! DIY really is the way to go most of the time for me. I got 2 questions- first, did you manage to evenly-dehydrate the filaments? I assume that the spools won't move unless ur printing, so it might dry more the part thats closer to the heater than the other sides. Second, did you try other materials like nylon? Which I read need around 80+ celcius
I have not tried nylon, but I know the box I built will not reach 80c. The heater uses a circulation fan, and since the box is rather small I assume to the heat is circulating well enough.
In the version shown here I was using a simple wooden dowel to hold the spools. I've upgraded since then, using some filament hangers from a junked 3d printer.
looking at building one of these nice idea. Did you open holes in the plastic tub by the fan or are the vent you speak of the only open seal in the tote?
@@mightystudiosvids Thanks I need to modiffy the fan housing but you did not include any step files and I tried to convert in fusion bit it claims this unit is 934.mm long. Any ideas>
Is there anything you recommend for getting higher temps as i need to dry nylon and 80c is basically the minimum and at that temp can take at least 24h to dry fully 😅
My air fryer goes down to 80C so if you have one lying around that could be an option. I wouldn't recommend using it for food after drying nylon though.
Exactly what I needed to build, thinking about using an old Coleman cooler and lining with the reflective fiberglass inside.
I like the DIY spirit to build something like this. However dealing with heating elements and the possibility of fire increases a lot. SUNLU S4 is for 4 filaments and only costs 119 euros at the moment. You can print right from it .
Off the shelf dryers don’t reach a very high temperature though. PET needs to be dried at a really high temp like 100c
Good point. Would adding a thermal fuse be enough to alleviate fire risk?
I took inspiration from your earlier videos and went total jank. Using a cardboard wine box, 2 120v "500" watt heaters, with built-in fans, from Amazon and a 10 amp temperature controller, also from Amazon, I was able to dry ABS at 75 C. For insulation, I used a drop cloth from Harbor Freight, folded and draped over the box.
Whatever works, right? 75C is better than I could achieve with this design.
@@mightystudiosvids Thanks! I needed both heaters to get to 75 C. One heater alone could dry PLA.
The sovol SH02 is at this moment for sale at sovol, for $59.99. so if you buy 2 of those you are at the same price tag. Although I love this project. But it shows once again that a real diy can hardly compete with the industry they buy in bulk. Just like IKEA, I cannot make furniture for their prices. only higher quality for a higher price
Oh and the sovol dryer is probably built in China. kind regards Hans
as a heater element you could try a reptile heat mat, less than $10 they are cheap and come in all sorts of sizes, also a plant propagator heat mat, usually more expensive but waterproof that also come in all shapes and sizes.
I got on 8X12 16 watt. Have it in a sterlite box with seals. 4 Spools then piled blanked. Only getting to 40c. Insulation would help
So how would taking a 3d printer heat bed puting it bottom taking the thermistor and putting near top of box. And using 3d printer control board and screen to control it. I'd use 24v set up to get a hotter area. If lucky you could have tevo tornado heat bed that pulls 110v and should more than get hot enough. Add computer fans to circulate the air
hmm, a commercial food dehydrator is only about 50 canadian dollars and can be modified to be printed from
So I bought the eibos dryer. It cost about 25usd delivered from aliexpress, and only uses a power cord, not a brick.
that's a really good deal. Four regular power cords would not be hard to deal with.
Could you explain more about the steam escape and the one at the bottom for the "convection flow".
So I have seen many things (IE my pressure cooker) have valves at the top to slowly release steam. But that's high pressure steam. Why is a simple valve at the top helping release humidity/steam from the box?
And I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by "convection flow" like what kind of air is coming in through that valve? How does it help dry filament more efficiently?
And I cant quite tell are those heating elements outside or inside of the box?
The heating element is inside the box. What you see on the outside is just the electronics control board. Since hot air rises, I added two holes to the box that I can open. One low and one high. The upper hole lets the hot steam escape so it does not remain trapped in the box. To help it vent faster, the lower hole lets cooler room air flow into the box. This creates a convection current through the box from the lower hole to the upper hole, allowing the moist air to be removed. Hope this helps.
SunLu 4 Spool filament dryer costs USD 137.00.
yeah, now that the Sunlu is available that's a way easier option.
Can the w1219 module be used for 15A heating? I see the relay says 20A 14vdc
Great video! DIY really is the way to go most of the time for me.
I got 2 questions-
first, did you manage to evenly-dehydrate the filaments? I assume that the spools won't move unless ur printing, so it might dry more the part thats closer to the heater than the other sides.
Second, did you try other materials like nylon? Which I read need around 80+ celcius
I have not tried nylon, but I know the box I built will not reach 80c. The heater uses a circulation fan, and since the box is rather small I assume to the heat is circulating well enough.
What did you use to hold the spools so that they could be used for printing? Bearing rollers? Rod of some kind?
In the version shown here I was using a simple wooden dowel to hold the spools. I've upgraded since then, using some filament hangers from a junked 3d printer.
thx for your video, i build one myself
Glad I could help
looking at building one of these nice idea. Did you open holes in the plastic tub by the fan or are the vent you speak of the only open seal in the tote?
the only holes are the vent holes shown. one low and one high to let convection remove the humid air.
@@mightystudiosvids Thanks I need to modiffy the fan housing but you did not include any step files and I tried to convert in fusion bit it claims this unit is 934.mm long. Any ideas>
Is there anything you recommend for getting higher temps as i need to dry nylon and 80c is basically the minimum and at that temp can take at least 24h to dry fully 😅
My air fryer goes down to 80C so if you have one lying around that could be an option. I wouldn't recommend using it for food after drying nylon though.
Buy the sunlu...110