Good job. I had a 900 back in the day and the calipers were a nightmare. Everything seized solid, except for the mouting bolts, one of which came out whilst I was driving, and the power steering only worked intermittenly on right hand turns, so interesting driving. I got it all fixed up and 101 other bits and pieces then the gearbox shat itself. Cool car but I was so burned by the experience I went and bought a Mercedes.
I just bough 900 turbo convertible made here in Finland😊I will drive it most of the summer. Only small fixes needed. I Have been fighting with door and trunk locks and electrics. I have to change ignition lock switch part. Battery gets empty in 1 week.
Nice Job with the brakes! There is an impact driver you can use for those screws on the disk. You put on the correct bot and then hit it with a hammer. When you hit it the bit turns and they come out. It will also tighten the screws if you turn the driver bit to on. Handy tool and not expensive.
@@rimmersbryggeri I have one and it has actually saved me countless times, even when the screw heads are nearly completly rounded it still somehow works
@@SeasideGarage That can be a problem. It's also very easy to lose the important bits almost directly after getting them. Especially if workign out sie on a gravelly drive.
I wish it were economical for you to get calipers from my friend Patrick at Automotive Braking Solutions in Long Beach, CA. I get all my Euro calipers from him. Very affordable and very high quality remanufacturing.
I'm just a hobby mechanic. The manual says - at least for the Girling-style calipers: Use new bolts to mount the two halves of the caliper. And then it also says: Tighten the bolts to the prescribed torques! Because they stretch a little during assembly, and they stretch/shrink later when they get hot-cold-hot and so on. It says that with so many warnings and rhetorical skulls that I have to get rid of it here. Here (in D) it's not legal for amateurs to separate calipers and you can only get repair kits without the little O-rings. That is, through the normal channels....
Interesting! I did not know that. I have actually rebuilt a few 4 piston BMW/ATE calipers including splitting them apart. (for which i needes a grease gun to press out the pistons!) I managed to rebuild them and they were leak free. I actually have done the Nurburgring in that car with those calipers 🫠 No problemo. You just HAVE to work clean and precise. No shortcuts!
Nice work! About the dust shields, I think you can still buy the newer ones from 88-93. They fit on the older models if you just massage them a little with a hammer. Otherwise the disc is going to rub against it. Done it myself on a 900 from 1985 I had!
@10.50 you are using some (ceramic?) Anti-seize, is that wise? In my opinion their shouldn't be anything between the disc and the hub. It could lead to run out and vibrations and in extreme cases loosening the wheelbolts. Just a thought.
I’m one who puts anti-seize btwn disk and hub, as Seppo did. Never understood there was a potential downside, but I’ve had to use a sledgehammer to remove a disk before and never want to wish that upon my future self (or the next owner).
Manual for my VW Transporter says to use anti-seize, and I've done so on every vehicle I've touched in the last 20. Living in a place of much rust (Alps) it is a necessity
This car is literally so cool, even just the name: 900 turbo COMMANDER 😎😎😎😎
Good job. I had a 900 back in the day and the calipers were a nightmare. Everything seized solid, except for the mouting bolts, one of which came out whilst I was driving, and the power steering only worked intermittenly on right hand turns, so interesting driving. I got it all fixed up and 101 other bits and pieces then the gearbox shat itself. Cool car but I was so burned by the experience I went and bought a Mercedes.
I just bough 900 turbo convertible made here in Finland😊I will drive it most of the summer. Only small fixes needed. I Have been fighting with door and trunk locks and electrics. I have to change ignition lock switch part. Battery gets empty in 1 week.
Nice Job with the brakes! There is an impact driver you can use for those screws on the disk. You put on the correct bot and then hit it with a hammer. When you hit it the bit turns and they come out. It will also tighten the screws if you turn the driver bit to on. Handy tool and not expensive.
It might actually be the best tool in the world.
@@rimmersbryggeri I have one and it has actually saved me countless times, even when the screw heads are nearly completly rounded it still somehow works
have two of them! but miss the correct bits for the saab :)
@@SeasideGarage That can be a problem. It's also very easy to lose the important bits almost directly after getting them. Especially if workign out sie on a gravelly drive.
I wish it were economical for you to get calipers from my friend Patrick at Automotive Braking Solutions in Long Beach, CA. I get all my Euro calipers from him. Very affordable and very high quality remanufacturing.
Pneumatic surprises can be such a crushing blow, particularly if the fingers are in the way... :P
great video nice to see someone doing a proper job
I don't think I have ever seen such rusty splash shields - the rear shields on my Peugeot 407 were close though! I just run without them tbh.!
Saaaaaaab!
I'm just a hobby mechanic.
The manual says - at least for the Girling-style calipers: Use new bolts to mount the two halves of the caliper. And then it also says: Tighten the bolts to the prescribed torques! Because they stretch a little during assembly, and they stretch/shrink later when they get hot-cold-hot and so on. It says that with so many warnings and rhetorical skulls that I have to get rid of it here.
Here (in D) it's not legal for amateurs to separate calipers and you can only get repair kits without the little O-rings. That is, through the normal channels....
Interesting! I did not know that. I have actually rebuilt a few 4 piston BMW/ATE calipers including splitting them apart. (for which i needes a grease gun to press out the pistons!)
I managed to rebuild them and they were leak free. I actually have done the Nurburgring in that car with those calipers 🫠
No problemo.
You just HAVE to work clean and precise. No shortcuts!
I will keep an eye on them... but I never have had any problems... and I am pretty sure its not stretch bolts. :)
But thanks for the headsup!
Nice work!
About the dust shields, I think you can still buy the newer ones from 88-93. They fit on the older models if you just massage them a little with a hammer. Otherwise the disc is going to rub against it. Done it myself on a 900 from 1985 I had!
Good to know!
You paint like me 😊 all the paint on in one go 😁👍🇮🇪
haha :P
Well done
Impressive! I've never installed a dust boot in less than four hours.
Love your videos, can't wait for the next one in this series.
PS, it's calipers.
Great job 😄💪🏼
@10.50 you are using some (ceramic?) Anti-seize, is that wise? In my opinion their shouldn't be anything between the disc and the hub. It could lead to run out and vibrations and in extreme cases loosening the wheelbolts. Just a thought.
there are many opinions on that subject... but one thing is certain. nothing falls apart for that reason
I’m one who puts anti-seize btwn disk and hub, as Seppo did. Never understood there was a potential downside, but I’ve had to use a sledgehammer to remove a disk before and never want to wish that upon my future self (or the next owner).
Manual for my VW Transporter says to use anti-seize, and I've done so on every vehicle I've touched in the last 20. Living in a place of much rust (Alps) it is a necessity
Dude, i think there is something wrong with one of the front discs. Check 11:17, at the top left area of the disc. Am I wrong ?
Pretty sure that's for balancing (?)
Balancing. :)
@@SeasideGarage Damn never seen it that pronounced in my life!
Nice video, but its crazy that someone can design such a bad front caliper, its crap.
You should check out Porsche 914 rears. They are a nightmare.
@@keepyourbilsteins I will look them up👍