Jason is still one of the best kit modelers showing tutorials how too and now a kit producer.. skill set, especially when mixing paints to achieve desired look..awesome kit Jason 🎶☕️☕️
Oh no! 8:22 and starting to wind down for they day ... frustrating in that looks like I will be calling a plumber tomorrow .. but then ... a new video from Jason. Ok. Open a beer and click .. start.
Well done Jason, Two quick comments about your assembly. 1: When adding nail holes to the structures face hold off applying the internal wall bracing a few moments. With the wall boards clipped from the sprue lay the parts flat on your cutting mat. Measure out the nail locations. And now use your pounce wheel to imprint the bung holes. If you're a brave intermediate/advanced craft modeler we can leave the parts on the sprue and pounce. Literally. 2: Instead of a somewhat complicated measuring conundrum try this. With the wall parts separated from the sprue, face the wall units face down (interior wall up). Cut your bracing board to correct length. Then taking a second brace dry to use as a measuring jig. Now place the jig square to the right corner glue up the cut brace and lay it in place. 1/8" in from the corner. On the left corner glue the appropriate bracer flush to the corner. This way ALL corner braces are in the same position. Left flush. Right 1/8" in from the joint. This technique also works with bump-out walls. Jim in N.Y.
If the spacing for the letters of the sign is correct on the 'sprue' you could put some tape on the front and cut them from the back to glue them on the sign in one piece. Great kit/build.
I think you have mixed paints a few times in your hobby life! What you mixed for the sidewalk and driveway was a perfect match for the chalk paint you were going to use.
Another outstanding construction, painting and detailing video, Jason! Just a thought on nail holes, since I'm somewhat OCD (ha!) ..... typical stud spacing is 16" C-C, with some older framing as wide as 24". In HO scale, , if you are not using an HO Scale for your dimensioning, that would make the nail hole spacing approximately 3/16" for the 16" spacing or 9/32" for the 24" spacing rather than the 7/16" or 1/2" spacing as you discussed. Also a thought on tar paper/rolled roofing ..... roofing material is measured in "squares" which is an abbreviated term for "100 square feet." The rolls of roofing material are sold by the square as well - typically 3' wide, and 33~1/3' long, scale dimensions, making 100 square feet. I haven't been able to measure the roof of your building, but if the roof is longer than the roll, there would be corresponding joints, with a few inches of overlap in the roofing material. Again, my OCD is kicking in
First let me say I enjoyed you kits, I recently purchased 2 kits from you, the propane supply and Locksmith shop. Building the propane first and I do have a few suggestions The instructions are a little vague. Watched the video, and you emphasize on painting not construction, not complaining just a thought.Also in the video you show material for a base, this was not included in the kit. All in all it was a great kit and looks good Thanks
Jason, If you pre glue the butt joints…you can use a slightly diluted glue…let dry then reapply full strength glue to the butt joint the bonding is much greater…In woodworking if joinery is end grain to end grain then this is how we would secure the joint…just saying. Randy
Jason, welcome back, beena while between videos. Great video on an amazing new kit. Some great techniques there, thank you for the tip on matching colour to your cocoon colour, that chalk paint is just not available in Australia. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
I noticed that your Cocoon is doing the same thing mine did .. has mold on top. No biggie .. stirring fixes that .. but seems like there should be something that could be added to kill that .. like a few drops of Lysol or something like
Hi, Jason. I’m confused about the windows. You have installed them with the top/head being the widest part of the window. I’ve seen a lot of that. But it seems like I’ve seen more windows with the stool/sill and apron being the widest part of the window. Based on the images I’m looking at on Google, the wide part should go on the bottom. What are your thoughts? As soon as I’m finished watching the video, I’m gonna order the kit… it looks cool!
From my life experiences, the trim boards for the doors and windows are correct as shown. The horizontal board across the top of the window is longer to help prevent/reduce rain from getting into the end grain of the vertical side boards. Traditional framing would have it extending 1 to 1½ inches beyond vertical boards.
For those, like me, who can't locate Artminds Cocoon Chalk paint, give this a try. As best as I can tell it seems to simulate the Cocoon paint fairly well. Cocoon Chalk Paint Mix: This makes a small 2 oz batch using inexpensive Apple Barrel acrylics. 1) Mix: 10 tsp (49 ml) : Apple Barrel Beige + 2 tsp (10 ml) Apple Barrel Country Gray. The beige closely matches Desert Sand, and the Country Gray has a tanish hue, lending itself well to this mix. 2) Then mix in 1/2 tsp Calcium Carbonate Powder (powdered chalk) for a flat, chalky finish. Makes about 2 fl oz (59 ml) You can, of course, scale it up for a bigger batch as needed. Hope this helps someone! Thanks for the inspiration, Jason! Cliff
Jason, in another video I mentioned that I cannot find "cocoon" at Michael's, not even online. What would you say is the ratio of slate gray to desert sand?
Whose is that tidy workshop you're standing in? Or is all the clutter behind the camera?!!! Heaven knows I don't want to offer you advice, that's what I come here for, but why not add the nail holes BEFORE the bracing when the whole panel can be laid flat on the mat? Another great kit btw. Cheers
Two blondes are locked out of their car. The first blonde is trying to unlock the car using a coat hanger. The second says to the first "hurry up! It looks like it's going to rain and the top's down!"
we had cacoon at MICHALES BUT THEY STOPED SELLING IT I ASKED WHY THEY SAID DID NOT SELL THAT GOOD AND THE OTHER CHALK PAINT ARE IN SMALLER JARS NOW NO MORE BIG ONES .
The metric equivilant might be a 25-50-75. And the reason the US doesn't use metric* is "he got slapped upside the head with a 50 x 100" just doesn't sound right. * Actually we really do.
Jason is still one of the best kit modelers showing tutorials how too and now a kit producer.. skill set, especially when mixing paints to achieve desired look..awesome kit Jason 🎶☕️☕️
Congratulations on the new kit! All your kits are beautifully detailed. I love the idea that your have an assembly video made for each one.
Jason you have inspired me so much and that I am so grateful to have you showing us how to make models.
I just purchased this kit earlier today for my N scale layout. I'm excited to get it and put it together!
Thank you so much!!! I hope you have fun with it!
Oh no! 8:22 and starting to wind down for they day ... frustrating in that looks like I will be calling a plumber tomorrow .. but then ... a new video from Jason. Ok. Open a beer and click .. start.
Great kit, great build. Another awesome video. You are a true artist. Thank you.
Thats a nice kit. As always the weatherd woodwork is amazing.
And again, you've built a beautiful building. You are the best. Greetings Tino
Awesome kit. Great new technics. As always, thank you Jason.
Reminds me of where I grew up in West Virginia
Thanks Jason, Great Kit.
Almost done building this kit. It's a really fun kit to build. Great Job Jason.
Thank you so much!!! I’m glad you like it!
Well done Jason,
Two quick comments about your assembly.
1: When adding nail holes to the structures face hold off applying the internal wall bracing a few moments. With the wall boards clipped from the sprue lay the parts flat on your cutting mat. Measure out the nail locations. And now use your pounce wheel to imprint the bung holes.
If you're a brave intermediate/advanced craft modeler we can leave the parts on the sprue and pounce. Literally.
2: Instead of a somewhat complicated measuring conundrum try this. With the wall parts separated from the sprue, face the wall units face down (interior wall up). Cut your bracing board to correct length. Then taking a second brace dry to use as a measuring jig. Now place the jig square to the right corner glue up the cut brace and lay it in place. 1/8" in from the corner. On the left corner glue the appropriate bracer flush to the corner. This way ALL corner braces are in the same position. Left flush. Right 1/8" in from the joint.
This technique also works with bump-out walls.
Jim in N.Y.
So I guess you also have a laser cutter that does all your wood engraving and cutting ? Your kits are awesome !
If the spacing for the letters of the sign is correct on the 'sprue' you could put some tape on the front and cut them from the back to glue them on the sign in one piece. Great kit/build.
Very neat , unique and beautiful building. Thanks for share, Jason .
Cesar
I have my kit on order. Will use this build video to guide me in construction.
I think you have mixed paints a few times in your hobby life! What you mixed for the sidewalk and driveway was a perfect match for the chalk paint you were going to use.
Can't WAIT to see this one.
Very realistic ! I love it !
Incredibly detailed kits, these kits are so well made and planned out, wish I had enough room for a train set and town!
Another outstanding construction, painting and detailing video, Jason!
Just a thought on nail holes, since I'm somewhat OCD (ha!) ..... typical stud spacing is 16" C-C, with some older framing as wide as 24". In HO scale, , if you are not using an HO Scale for your dimensioning, that would make the nail hole spacing approximately 3/16" for the 16" spacing or 9/32" for the 24" spacing rather than the 7/16" or 1/2" spacing as you discussed.
Also a thought on tar paper/rolled roofing ..... roofing material is measured in "squares" which is an abbreviated term for "100 square feet." The rolls of roofing material are sold by the square as well - typically 3' wide, and 33~1/3' long, scale dimensions, making 100 square feet. I haven't been able to measure the roof of your building, but if the roof is longer than the roll, there would be corresponding joints, with a few inches of overlap in the roofing material. Again, my OCD is kicking in
First let me say I enjoyed you kits, I recently purchased 2 kits from you, the propane supply and Locksmith shop. Building the propane first and I do have a few suggestions
The instructions are a little vague. Watched the video, and you emphasize on painting not construction, not complaining just a thought.Also in the video you show material for a base, this was not included in the kit. All in all it was a great kit and looks good
Thanks
Thank you for sharing, it is appreciated. In regard to your missing piece, please email jasonjensentrains@gmail.com and we can help you.
To keep from breaking the walls could you put the nail holes before you braced them.
Jason,
If you pre glue the butt joints…you can use a slightly diluted glue…let dry then reapply full strength glue to the butt joint the bonding is much greater…In woodworking if joinery is end grain to end grain then this is how we would secure the joint…just saying.
Randy
Jason, welcome back, beena while between videos.
Great video on an amazing new kit.
Some great techniques there, thank you for the tip on matching colour to your cocoon colour, that chalk paint is just not available in Australia.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Jason, love your videos. Thank you for your efforts. Do you provide kits in O Scale? Do your kits include all parts and braces?
Thank you so much!!! I offer kits in HO and N scale and yes all parts and bracing are included. Thanks for watching!!!
Maybe it would be better to put the nail holes in before bracing, while the walls are still flat??????
Will you ship your kits to the U k England. Thanks for the shows How to build and detail your projects Robert Bolton.
Great build and video as always. What glue do you use for glazing on to window frames. I sometimes end up with marks or misting
I noticed that your Cocoon is doing the same thing mine did .. has mold on top. No biggie .. stirring fixes that .. but seems like there should be something that could be added to kill that .. like a few drops of Lysol or something like
Hi, Jason. I’m confused about the windows. You have installed them with the top/head being the widest part of the window. I’ve seen a lot of that. But it seems like I’ve seen more windows with the stool/sill and apron being the widest part of the window. Based on the images I’m looking at on Google, the wide part should go on the bottom. What are your thoughts? As soon as I’m finished watching the video, I’m gonna order the kit… it looks cool!
From my life experiences, the trim boards for the doors and windows are correct as shown. The horizontal board across the top of the window is longer to help prevent/reduce rain from getting into the end grain of the vertical side boards. Traditional framing would have it extending 1 to 1½ inches beyond vertical boards.
Doesnt the chalkpaint also gif an extra dry dusty concreet feel?
Is the sponge an inexpensive acrylic or real sea sponge.
Fantastic! As usual Jason. Love the details. Does anyone know where I can source HO goose neck lamps? I need a bunch for my structures.
Tichy
For those, like me, who can't locate Artminds Cocoon Chalk paint, give this a try. As best as I can tell it seems to simulate the Cocoon paint fairly well.
Cocoon Chalk Paint Mix:
This makes a small 2 oz batch using inexpensive Apple Barrel acrylics.
1) Mix: 10 tsp (49 ml) : Apple Barrel Beige + 2 tsp (10 ml) Apple Barrel Country Gray.
The beige closely matches Desert Sand, and the Country Gray has a tanish hue, lending itself well to this mix.
2) Then mix in 1/2 tsp Calcium Carbonate Powder (powdered chalk) for a flat, chalky finish.
Makes about 2 fl oz (59 ml)
You can, of course, scale it up for a bigger batch as needed. Hope this helps someone! Thanks for the inspiration, Jason!
Cliff
Jason, in another video I mentioned that I cannot find "cocoon" at Michael's, not even online. What would you say is the ratio of slate gray to desert sand?
50/50
Jason, where d I’d you get the pounce wheel and what. Size is it?
Any chance of some O scale buildings?
Jason, Do you ever make O scale Kits?
Anybody know of an equivalent to the alcohol washes from best trains available in Europe?
Make n scale please!!!! Huge fan of yours!
"A lot of steps". Yes, it's a craftsman kit and that's what you want it to be.
Whose is that tidy workshop you're standing in? Or is all the clutter behind the camera?!!!
Heaven knows I don't want to offer you advice, that's what I come here for, but why not add the nail holes BEFORE the bracing when the whole panel can be laid flat on the mat?
Another great kit btw. Cheers
FIRST! Number one fan!
Two blondes are locked out of their car.
The first blonde is trying to unlock the car using a coat hanger. The second says to the first "hurry up! It looks like it's going to rain and the top's down!"
we had cacoon at MICHALES BUT THEY STOPED SELLING IT I ASKED WHY THEY SAID DID NOT SELL THAT GOOD AND THE OTHER CHALK PAINT ARE IN SMALLER JARS NOW NO MORE BIG ONES .
No need to yell.
I'm an Australian. I can't call something a 1-2-3 block. It's an infringement of my cultural norms. Instead I propose we call it a waltzy.
The metric equivilant might be a 25-50-75. And the reason the US doesn't use metric* is "he got slapped upside the head with a 50 x 100" just doesn't sound right.
* Actually we really do.
No
Why wouldn't you put the nail holes before the bracing?