Another wonderful and informative video on what has to be the definitive guide on the magic of Bokeh balls and bubbles. Pleased that I own a number of the lenses you showcased, such as Zeiss, Takumar, Pentax and Helios lenses. As well as several of the MOG lenses you covered. The most recent being the Primotar 135mm - the purchase being directly attributed your previous video. More than lived up to expectations. Such a beautiful flow of images that you have presented. Especially appreciate how you get these vintage lenses to sing in the appropriate lighting (generally low sun angles). They do indeed all have a charm of their own when wide-open and this is what continues to draw you into what soon becomes a slippery slope. However, it is your flowing narrative that elevates your videos into the realm of deep learning and this is one presentation that I will refer to time and time again.
So much in there, I’ll have to revisit. It has been awhile since I gave attention to my vintage lenses. I’ve been working on my product photography, using modern high quality ultra sharp lenses. But recently I picked up a very suitable mirrorless, mostly to shoot video, but I am very interested to see how the vintage lenses perform. I do so enjoy you videos. You don’t over glorify those lenses. They can perform, but they have other subtle qualities. The make or break for me is sharpness plus how the lens drifts away to complete blur… the transition. Character is what you are in the dark. ;)
Marvelous pictures Simon. Your fences really are a great subject to show the wonder world of bubbles. My favorite lenses I own right now are (and of course I wish I have more...) the MOG primotar e 50 3.5, smc Pentax m 50 1.7, pentacon 50 1.8, helios 44-2, takumar 50 1.8, takumar 200 3.5. I have other lenses too but those mentioned to me do produce best interesting beautiful out of focus blur bokeh bubble soap! Thank you for another great video.
Un autre magnifique revue avec des photos splendides et bien sûr des objectifs vintages hors du temps avec du charme et du caractère comme nous les aimons.Superbe ,bravo Simon.
I only recently discovered and subscribed to your channel. I had already diagnosed myself with a serious case of LBA (Takumars, Rokkors, Russian lenses), but this recent video sent me off again into the rabbit hole, from which I emerged many $$$ lighter and many $$$ happier! Later this week I will be the happy owner of an Auto Revuenon 55mm f1.2 - can't wait to start using that one! Excellent video(s), great details, great presentation - many thanks!
Hi Simon. This was very interesting and enjoyable as usual with your posts. I'm going to blame you for the rabbit hole i've fallen into and am thoroughly enjoying. First stop was my 7 element 50mm f1.4 Super Takumar. I saw one at my local camera store sitting innocuously in the corner of the bottom shelf of the display. Thanks to your videos it was mine for a modest price not long afterwards. Next stop was a Meyer Optik Görlitz lens. I was aware of the relaunch of the brand and never thought much about it until your videos enlightened me. I'm a Nikon shooter and one day I stumbled across a modified 29mm f2.8 Orestegon converted to an F mount. I tried to research this exact lens and didn't find much on Y-tube but the price was good and being an F mount it would enable me to use it on my FM, F100, D90, and via adapter, my Z5. From what little I saw on Y-tube I had an expectation of some swirls. Early tests look like there's potential, however, another aspect of this lens surprised and delighted me: Stars! This lens cranks out stars like crazy. This leads me to my suggestion. How about a post on stars and sunstars? Your videos on bokeh and swirls are the best here on Y-tube. I'd love to see your take on stars and sunstars. Thanks, cheers, and Merry Christmas!
He pulled me down this rabbit hole as well..🤔 While not very far yet, I've got the 8 element super takumar 1.4, and extremely tempted by the tomioka auto revuenon 55mm f1.2, but still managed to stay away. Love your videos Simon
Simon give me something new before year end. I oft look forward for your poetic voice and insightful lessons. I'm struggling with my Z9 heavy and too cumbersome for vintage. Now is Bokeh season, though I can't stand Malls. You're a Classic Simon. I repeatedly watch and listen to your charm unlike any other Photographer
I have seen a lot of your videos in the past two years and I have learned a lot as well! So, I bought several vintage lenses. Lot of fun really good! Still love the adventure! Greetings from the Netherlands!
Thaanks, Simon, another incredibly detailed and useful video. I have quite a few of these lenses, especially the Pentax ones - all wonderful lenses and not just for the bokeh. I must try and find another decent Oreston 50 1.8 - had one about 30 years ago on an RTL 1000 and it was great then, not sure why I ever sold it. Please keep the videos coming - they are very much appreciated.
16kp 50mm F1.2 soviet projector lens is a fave if mine, bokeh is huge and smooth with crazy swirls. Also bell & Howell 2 inch F1 2, amazing but hard work to nail focus.
Great video with lot's of inspiration and beautiful pictures...thank you so very much. I enjoy playing with a 6 blade RE, Auto - Topcor 1:2,8 f=3.5cm Tokyo Kogaku on a Fuji X crop sensor. MFD is 12cm, bukeh a bit like the Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Primotar E 50mm f3.5.
I recently bought a Mir 1b 37mm F2.8 as a speciality bokeh lens, with the front element flipped over, there are some spectacular sample images a google away. However when it arrived, it turned out to be such a sweet little lens with deft handling. I have kept the lens as standard and its lovely with good colour and contrast and bokeh
I've got a MIR-1, and it is indeed a sweet little lens. I bought mind to use as a standard lens too. So far I've not be able to unscrew the front element. Interestingly, unlike virtually every other M42 lens I own, the lens works perfectly well to infinity on one of my M42-Sony adapters, but the focus is way off (way past infinity, and MFD is off too) on another.
@@Simonsutak oh, thats odd, I didn't struggle at all to unscrew the flange holding the front element in place, perhaps mine had been off already for CLA. I haven't tested the limitations of the lens as yet.
@@gregkirkpatrick2 Yes, despite WD40 and force I can't unscrew the name-plate holding the glass in place. But since your comment, I've tried simply reversing the whole front component and slotting it back into the lens body, and this does the trick!! A rather nice vignette blur effect, while the centre remains in focus. In terms of limitations, my MIR-1 is very prone to flare and light leaks, from bright light from the side, even with a hood. But aside from that it performs well, and as you say, good colour contrasts.
@@Simonsutak Thanks Simon for allowing it. I did just take over the ADM and doing some "housekeeping". thought your video fits perfect for some educating the (also potential) group members. you keep up your interesting good work 🙏
I do love my Helios 44s, but I think my favourite for this kind of thing are the Takumar 50s: the 1.4 the 1.8 and the 55 1.8. Whether I am shooting my digital or my film 35mm cameras, one of these latter lenses is almost always on the front. Or if not, you can bet I will have one of them close by.
A lens I've been shooting a lot since I got it is the TTArtisan 27/2.8 for Fuji X. In many ways, it can't compete with any of these. The bokeh balls aren't too large since the focal length is rather short and aperture is rather dark. But there's so much swirl under the right conditions, and it has all the convenience of a modern autofocus lens. A lot of fun for the price, and I can't think of many small AF lenses like it. My hope is that they come out with something like a 40mm f/2 autofocus lens with something resembling a biotar optical design. Really lean into the kinds of looks you can otherwise only get from a vintage lens, but with all the ease and utility of modern technology.
No fence sitting Simon! Really enjoyed your knowledgeable well put together video with so many superlative pictures. Felt like a trip through a visual wonderland. Question is are you the Cheshire Cat or the Knave of Hearts?
I inherited a Tamron SP 35-80 1:2.8-3.8 macro lens and it is capable of producing nice bokeh balls and very sharp close ups. Also the SMC Pentax M 50mm f1.4. I also had surprisingly good results with the SMC Pentax 24-50 f4 lens. Thanks for your videos.
One lens I have heard you mention in one other vid was the Auto Topcor 58mm F1.4. I have one and I can tell you it ranks right up there with the best. I do hope you get an opportunity to get your hands on one, test it, ad make a vid about Topcor lenses. They don`t get near enough love from the vintage community. As usual, enjoyed your vid immensely.
I love my radioactive Pancolar! If you are adapting to mirrorless digital cameras, I suggest getting a helicoid adapter. You can focus as close as you want. You can also use old broken lenses, as long as they are set to infinity, then you can use the adapter to focus instead of the lens.
Hello Simon. I enjoyed very much the informations you are giving about legacy lenses. Having started long ago with film photography, I have off course an all bunch of very good old lenses that I am using on Sony mirrorless. Have you had any experience using Sony's (or any other mirrorless) IBIS function with legacy lenses?
I get very good results from my Zuiko OM 200mm f/4, but I often have to fight the urge to go looking for the Zuiko 180mm f/2.8. There are more exotic lenses from Zuiko, but they are still going for silly money. I also have some good results from the Zuiko 100mm f/2.8 with a 2x teleconverter. It might only be equivalent to 200mm f/5.6, but it focuses as close as the 100mm, about 1m; almost a walkabout macro lens.
I love using the Zuiko 100mm f2 on fuji apsc with the crop, it focuses down to 70cm so it can be use like a macro at 150mm. Also the Zuiko 55mm 1.2 can make some wild bokeh.
I am watching this video a year after you posted it and I am very impressed by your collection! Thank you so much for your content and the knowledge that you impart. I wanted to ask about the square filter that you used on the Zenitar in which you were able to create the square bokeh. How did you get it? Where can I get one? Thank you so much!
Hello friend! Best ressource on YT for vintage lenses! But is there a reason why Nikon, Konica, Minolta and Canon are not reviewed in your videos? Many thanks!
Good question! I have restricted the lens mounts I use, to date - to try and contain my lens buying addictions! I know there are many excellent lenses out there, waiting to be used!
@@Simonsutak ah yes… good choice, so you don’t end up like me: many brands but average lenses 😂🤣 Kidding, I DO have Konica 57mm 1.2. Lovely lens, although overrated both on global performance and price. Still, it’s fantastic. The Nikon H 50mm f2.0 is also a very interesting lens… I always look forward to your lens reviews. They are grounded in real life usage and don’t fall into the usual traps of sharpness and chromatic aberrations…. If you listen to too much of these, you end up buying none!
Another excellent and informative video, thank you. I do hold you responsible for my addiction to vintage lenses but as vice’s go it’s not a bad one to have. 😊 curious about your choices of camera body, do you have a favourite?
I always enjoy your videos, though I believe my days of buying vintage lenses is pretty much over. That being said, I modified a Lomo P-5 150mm f/2 for my Canon, and it has the smoothest, meltiest bokeh that I've ever seen, though rarely produces bokeh balls. For that, I prefer my modern remake of the Trioplan 100mm, which may have been made superfluous by the Canon RF 100mm Macro's aberration control.
I am now using the Hasselblad 55mm f/2.5 V and it does nice bokeh. My old CV 35mm Nokton II does nicely close in and the ever enchanting Cooke Amotal can be counted on for magic under most circumstances. It is the Hasselblad with its medium format and shallow depth of field that cranks out those great bokeh images for me, not my exertions.
I've not had the Pentax 100 macro but I used to have the takumar version and the thing that really surprised me was how washed out the photos would be if you pointed it near a light source, I found this surprising because the front element is relatively small and quite recessed and it's not something that I'd associate as a takumar behaviour because I've not seen it in other takumars. For some reason I sold it but I regret getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another copy in the future.
Great video Simon! I have a few lenses you discussed in the video such as Takumar 50/1.4 , both the 8-element version and 7-element version, Mamiya-Sekor 55/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8, Pentacon 50/1.8. They are all lovely in their own ways. When I shoot with them and other vintages such as Canon LTM, Contax Zeiss individually, I find my impressions/conclusions highly subjective. As you suggested, the bokeh renderings depend on many conditions, and even the same lens can produce very different renderings under different conditions. In order to see how they compare under very similar conditions, I did from time to time set up a series of tests, and to be honest, every time I did this kind of tests, I found them more in common than different. I shared some results on my Instagram if anyone is interested LOL.
Ha! You are so right. But having just pulled all these images together in one place for the first time, I'd say the two lenses/images that stood out to me were: (1) Tomioka Auto-Revuenon 55mm f1.2 for it's beautifully eccentric rendering; and (2) Takumar 58mm f2.4 because it has a little bit of everything - soap bubble bokeh. swirly bokeh, and it's very sharp wide open.
Great video! I have good results with MOG Trioplan 2.9/50 (it's really no brainer when it comes to great bokeh), but on the other side, I just cannot tame Schneider Kreuznach Xenon 0.95/50, extremely fast but hard to get good results with it
I hated the Helios 44-2 when I first got it. Went street shooting in Manhattan. Lots of light to play with. but my images came out boring. Then I got a speedbooster. That enabled me to get the entire image circle from the lens onto the sensor. Not only did I get a couple stops faster, but I was getting all the swirls in frame now. The crop sensor was only seeing the sharpest part in the middle before. I also didn't like the preset mechanism at first. On my copy at least the front ring feels loose and doesn't engage firmly. I've since gotten used to it. Using the mechanism to limit the travel of the iris is helpful because all of my M42 adapters put the aperture marking on the bottom! Not just for the Helios, for all my M42 lenses. What is up with that!
Revuenon doesn't stop there: Tomioka Auto-Revuenon 55mm f=1.2 but also this: Revuenon MC 55mm f=1.2 Are there big differences between these two lenses, or are they basically the same? I have the latter with Pentax K mount.
I just got a few old vintage lenses, including a Fujinon 55mm f2.2 and a Helios 44-2. Both are very soft wide open, I need to stop down at least to f2.8 to get a somewhat sharp image. Are your images with the Helios 44-2 wide open??
Yes, wide open. I do sharpen my images, more often with a contrast boost than a sharpening tool. I wouldn't describe my Helios 44-2s as very soft wide open at the center, but images do often need processing. Some other old lenses are very soft wide open, and some people have said their Fujinon f2.2s are soft wide open.
@@Simonsutak true, the Fujinon is softer wide open than the Helios and the contrast is also reduced wide open compared to stopped down. Sometimes it looks like shot through silk curtain. And bright areas in the image get kind of a halo effect. But when you want the most bubble bokeh you have to use it wide open.
I have the pentagon zebra 50mm1.8 and it can produce some very nice bokeh even on my MFT camera. However, it way to soft wide open. I’m about to go full frame and I’m looking find the best lens for wild flower photography. But, it’s hard considering the minimum distance of many lenses.
Buy yourself a helicoid adapter for you full frame camera and you can decrease the MFD while adapting a lens at the same time. I shoot with a Leica SL 601 so I use a TT Artisans Leica M to Leica L helicoid adapter on my camera, so all adapters for my lenses are always M mount adapters ie. my Takumar lenses all have M42 to Leica M adapters. I piggy back the M42-M adapter with the M-L adapter and get infinity focus. I twist the helicoid when I want close focus. If you have two different camera mounts this setup also saves you buying two sets of adapters for you lenses. For my MFT camera I buy one Leica M to MFT adapter and I can use any of my lenses with their existing Leica M adapters.
Thank you for another GREAT video!! You've inspired me to buy a good 44-2, Jupiter -8, and MGO 100 trioplan (new manufacture I got on good deal). I'm still hunting for a good Helios 40....my question is, on these images, what camera body are you shooting on? A single digital you are adapting to, or are these several film cameras that natively work with different lenses? Right now, I mostly adapt mine to my Leica M10M....I want to go try some on color, but not sure what to get for color...down the line thinking a Canon R5..? I have a GFX100, but so far, not sure I"m liking FF lenses adapted to it yet....even cropping I just don't seem to get results I like so far. So, wondering what you're using as a camera body to test all these lenses....your images just look so very very cool. Thank you for your videos and thank you in advance for any reply you can give me!! CC
Simon's : Please Oh I beg you : the A. Schact Ulm 90mm lens , I have the high aperture blade count lens , I LOVE this lens ...and ever ever ...never tire of it's spectacular ability. My lens is the double barreled , Zebra type , they are classic German craftsmanship , in excellence , the lens is the : TRAVENAR 90mm F2.8 R model again , the " R " model. You shan't be disappointed , I have a pair twins , both rebuild and fantastic gem's .... rebuilt years ago by a Japanese master whom Bellamy Hunt , once knew of.
You can look on-line for lists of radioactive lenses. They'll have yellowed - if they haven't been "cured" with UV light recently. But that doesn't cover the non-radio-active lenses that have coatings that have yellowed over time. I've never seen a list of those.....
No, because the vast majority of shots are wide open and fast, they are hand-held. Plus I have to get into rather odd positions to get some of these compositions. And I prefer to take a snap quickly and move on, so as to not bother the house/fence owners! When I've needed to compare lenses formally, wide open and stopped down, I've tended to chose a different subject/composition.
Here are links to different brands in the video:
00:00 Introduction
01:37 Meyer-Optik Gorlitz, Pentacon
04:32 Carl Zeiss Jena
06:51 Takumar
10:50 Pentax
12:03 Tomioka Auto-Revuenon, Yashica, Mamiya/Sekor
14:11 Fuji, Chinon
14:44 Tair, Jupiter, Zenitar
16:29 Helios 44s and 40
18:06 Projector lenses
18:49 Conclusions
Anyway the fence test is very valuable. Great images
This is a definite re-watch
A superb sampling of British fences and useful lens information too!
I will watch this over and over. All your videos have great photos and are excellent study guides for artistic photography. Cheers.
Another wonderful and informative video on what has to be the definitive guide on the magic of Bokeh balls and bubbles.
Pleased that I own a number of the lenses you showcased, such as Zeiss, Takumar, Pentax and Helios lenses. As well as several of the MOG lenses you covered. The most recent being the Primotar 135mm - the purchase being directly attributed your previous video. More than lived up to expectations.
Such a beautiful flow of images that you have presented. Especially appreciate how you get these vintage lenses to sing in the appropriate lighting (generally low sun angles). They do indeed all have a charm of their own when wide-open and this is what continues to draw you into what soon becomes a slippery slope.
However, it is your flowing narrative that elevates your videos into the realm of deep learning and this is one presentation that I will refer to time and time again.
Thank you.. This was my favorite video that you produced
So much in there, I’ll have to revisit. It has been awhile since I gave attention to my vintage lenses. I’ve been working on my product photography, using modern high quality ultra sharp lenses. But recently I picked up a very suitable mirrorless, mostly to shoot video, but I am very interested to see how the vintage lenses perform. I do so enjoy you videos. You don’t over glorify those lenses. They can perform, but they have other subtle qualities. The make or break for me is sharpness plus how the lens drifts away to complete blur… the transition. Character is what you are in the dark. ;)
Marvelous pictures Simon. Your fences really are a great subject to show the wonder world of bubbles. My favorite lenses I own right now are (and of course I wish I have more...) the MOG primotar e 50 3.5, smc Pentax m 50 1.7, pentacon 50 1.8, helios 44-2, takumar 50 1.8, takumar 200 3.5. I have other lenses too but those mentioned to me do produce best interesting beautiful out of focus blur bokeh bubble soap! Thank you for another great video.
Many thanks Stefano - your photos on Flickr with these lenses are superb!
Love your videos. Always wish I could see the lense you are speaking about as well, so much information to absorb.
Excellent production, very interesting and gorgeous photography. Thank you.
Un autre magnifique revue avec des photos splendides et bien sûr des objectifs vintages hors du temps avec du charme et du caractère comme nous les aimons.Superbe ,bravo Simon.
I only recently discovered and subscribed to your channel. I had already diagnosed myself with a serious case of LBA (Takumars, Rokkors, Russian lenses), but this recent video sent me off again into the rabbit hole, from which I emerged many $$$ lighter and many $$$ happier! Later this week I will be the happy owner of an Auto Revuenon 55mm f1.2 - can't wait to start using that one! Excellent video(s), great details, great presentation - many thanks!
Great examples, nice video. thanx!
Hi Simon. This was very interesting and enjoyable as usual with your posts. I'm going to blame you for the rabbit hole i've fallen into and am thoroughly enjoying. First stop was my 7 element 50mm f1.4 Super Takumar. I saw one at my local camera store sitting innocuously in the corner of the bottom shelf of the display. Thanks to your videos it was mine for a modest price not long afterwards. Next stop was a Meyer Optik Görlitz lens. I was aware of the relaunch of the brand and never thought much about it until your videos enlightened me. I'm a Nikon shooter and one day I stumbled across a modified 29mm f2.8 Orestegon converted to an F mount. I tried to research this exact lens and didn't find much on Y-tube but the price was good and being an F mount it would enable me to use it on my FM, F100, D90, and via adapter, my Z5. From what little I saw on Y-tube I had an expectation of some swirls. Early tests look like there's potential, however, another aspect of this lens surprised and delighted me: Stars! This lens cranks out stars like crazy. This leads me to my suggestion. How about a post on stars and sunstars? Your videos on bokeh and swirls are the best here on Y-tube. I'd love to see your take on stars and sunstars. Thanks, cheers, and Merry Christmas!
He pulled me down this rabbit hole as well..🤔 While not very far yet, I've got the 8 element super takumar 1.4, and extremely tempted by the tomioka auto revuenon 55mm f1.2, but still managed to stay away.
Love your videos Simon
Simon give me something new before year end. I oft look forward for your poetic voice and insightful lessons. I'm struggling with my Z9 heavy and too cumbersome for vintage. Now is Bokeh season, though I can't stand Malls. You're a Classic Simon. I repeatedly watch and listen to your charm unlike any other Photographer
I have seen a lot of your videos in the past two years and I have learned a lot as well! So, I bought several vintage lenses. Lot of fun really good! Still love the adventure! Greetings from the Netherlands!
we love the fence test its a good way to determine all kinds of shooting situations for wide open photography
Thaanks, Simon, another incredibly detailed and useful video. I have quite a few of these lenses, especially the Pentax ones - all wonderful lenses and not just for the bokeh. I must try and find another decent Oreston 50 1.8 - had one about 30 years ago on an RTL 1000 and it was great then, not sure why I ever sold it. Please keep the videos coming - they are very much appreciated.
Thank you for this very interesting video for Christmas ! 🎄✨🎍♥🎇
Thanks for another interesting video.
16kp 50mm F1.2 soviet projector lens is a fave if mine, bokeh is huge and smooth with crazy swirls. Also bell & Howell 2 inch F1 2, amazing but hard work to nail focus.
Great video with lot's of inspiration and beautiful pictures...thank you so very much. I enjoy playing with a 6 blade RE, Auto - Topcor 1:2,8 f=3.5cm Tokyo Kogaku on a Fuji X crop sensor. MFD is 12cm, bukeh a bit like the Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Primotar E 50mm f3.5.
I recently bought a Mir 1b 37mm F2.8 as a speciality bokeh lens, with the front element flipped over, there are some spectacular sample images a google away. However when it arrived, it turned out to be such a sweet little lens with deft handling. I have kept the lens as standard and its lovely with good colour and contrast and bokeh
I've got a MIR-1, and it is indeed a sweet little lens. I bought mind to use as a standard lens too. So far I've not be able to unscrew the front element. Interestingly, unlike virtually every other M42 lens I own, the lens works perfectly well to infinity on one of my M42-Sony adapters, but the focus is way off (way past infinity, and MFD is off too) on another.
@@Simonsutak oh, thats odd, I didn't struggle at all to unscrew the flange holding the front element in place, perhaps mine had been off already for CLA.
I haven't tested the limitations of the lens as yet.
@@gregkirkpatrick2 Yes, despite WD40 and force I can't unscrew the name-plate holding the glass in place. But since your comment, I've tried simply reversing the whole front component and slotting it back into the lens body, and this does the trick!! A rather nice vignette blur effect, while the centre remains in focus. In terms of limitations, my MIR-1 is very prone to flare and light leaks, from bright light from the side, even with a hood. But aside from that it performs well, and as you say, good colour contrasts.
Terrific! Well, now I can sit back and wait for it to feature on the channel 🙂 enjoy
Thanks Simon! I am using your video in a link to the Flickr group "Bokeh of Vintage Primes"🤟very useful and educative for the group and all of us!
Thank you so much for using this video on your group page - I'm flattered! I've always admired your Flickr group and how you run it.
@@Simonsutak Thanks Simon for allowing it. I did just take over the ADM and doing some "housekeeping". thought your video fits perfect for some educating the (also potential) group members. you keep up your interesting good work 🙏
I do love my Helios 44s, but I think my favourite for this kind of thing are the Takumar 50s: the 1.4 the 1.8 and the 55 1.8. Whether I am shooting my digital or my film 35mm cameras, one of these latter lenses is almost always on the front. Or if not, you can bet I will have one of them close by.
Well that's thrown a heap of wood on the GAS fire!! Superb video as always. All the best
Consider bying the Jupiter, hope the later black it is as good as the silver one
A lens I've been shooting a lot since I got it is the TTArtisan 27/2.8 for Fuji X. In many ways, it can't compete with any of these. The bokeh balls aren't too large since the focal length is rather short and aperture is rather dark. But there's so much swirl under the right conditions, and it has all the convenience of a modern autofocus lens. A lot of fun for the price, and I can't think of many small AF lenses like it.
My hope is that they come out with something like a 40mm f/2 autofocus lens with something resembling a biotar optical design. Really lean into the kinds of looks you can otherwise only get from a vintage lens, but with all the ease and utility of modern technology.
No fence sitting Simon! Really enjoyed your knowledgeable well put together video with so many superlative pictures. Felt like a trip through a visual wonderland. Question is are you the Cheshire Cat or the Knave of Hearts?
I inherited a Tamron SP 35-80 1:2.8-3.8 macro lens and it is capable of producing nice bokeh balls and very sharp close ups. Also the SMC Pentax M 50mm f1.4. I also had surprisingly good results with the SMC Pentax 24-50 f4 lens. Thanks for your videos.
One lens I have heard you mention in one other vid was the Auto Topcor 58mm F1.4. I have one and I can tell you it ranks right up there with the best. I do hope you get an opportunity to get your hands on one, test it, ad make a vid about Topcor lenses. They don`t get near enough love from the vintage community. As usual, enjoyed your vid immensely.
I love my radioactive Pancolar! If you are adapting to mirrorless digital cameras, I suggest getting a helicoid adapter. You can focus as close as you want. You can also use old broken lenses, as long as they are set to infinity, then you can use the adapter to focus instead of the lens.
Hello Simon. I enjoyed very much the informations you are giving about legacy lenses. Having started long ago with film photography, I have off course an all bunch of very good old lenses that I am using on Sony mirrorless. Have you had any experience using Sony's (or any other mirrorless) IBIS function with legacy lenses?
I get very good results from my Zuiko OM 200mm f/4, but I often have to fight the urge to go looking for the Zuiko 180mm f/2.8. There are more exotic lenses from Zuiko, but they are still going for silly money.
I also have some good results from the Zuiko 100mm f/2.8 with a 2x teleconverter. It might only be equivalent to 200mm f/5.6, but it focuses as close as the 100mm, about 1m; almost a walkabout macro lens.
I love using the Zuiko 100mm f2 on fuji apsc with the crop, it focuses down to 70cm so it can be use like a macro at 150mm. Also the Zuiko 55mm 1.2 can make some wild bokeh.
I am watching this video a year after you posted it and I am very impressed by your collection! Thank you so much for your content and the knowledge that you impart. I wanted to ask about the square filter that you used on the Zenitar in which you were able to create the square bokeh. How did you get it? Where can I get one? Thank you so much!
Hello friend! Best ressource on YT for vintage lenses! But is there a reason why Nikon, Konica, Minolta and Canon are not reviewed in your videos? Many thanks!
Good question! I have restricted the lens mounts I use, to date - to try and contain my lens buying addictions! I know there are many excellent lenses out there, waiting to be used!
@@Simonsutak ah yes… good choice, so you don’t end up like me: many brands but average lenses 😂🤣 Kidding, I DO have Konica 57mm 1.2. Lovely lens, although overrated both on global performance and price. Still, it’s fantastic. The Nikon H 50mm f2.0 is also a very interesting lens… I always look forward to your lens reviews. They are grounded in real life usage and don’t fall into the usual traps of sharpness and chromatic aberrations…. If you listen to too much of these, you end up buying none!
Another excellent and informative video, thank you. I do hold you responsible for my addiction to vintage lenses but as vice’s go it’s not a bad one to have. 😊 curious about your choices of camera body, do you have a favourite?
I always enjoy your videos, though I believe my days of buying vintage lenses is pretty much over. That being said, I modified a Lomo P-5 150mm f/2 for my Canon, and it has the smoothest, meltiest bokeh that I've ever seen, though rarely produces bokeh balls. For that, I prefer my modern remake of the Trioplan 100mm, which may have been made superfluous by the Canon RF 100mm Macro's aberration control.
I have the Helios 44-3 adapted by Retro Foto House to Nikon F mount. I get infinity. Very interesting lens with lots of blades. Fun to use.
I am now using the Hasselblad 55mm f/2.5 V and it does nice bokeh. My old CV 35mm Nokton II does nicely close in and the ever enchanting Cooke Amotal can be counted on for magic under most circumstances. It is the Hasselblad with its medium format and shallow depth of field that cranks out those great bokeh images for me, not my exertions.
Such lovely images as usual Simon.
Question from the floor, do you hand-hold or use a tripod?
You can fence me in anytime‼️✌️
Thank you! Hand held - its hard to get a tripod up against these fences!
I've not had the Pentax 100 macro but I used to have the takumar version and the thing that really surprised me was how washed out the photos would be if you pointed it near a light source, I found this surprising because the front element is relatively small and quite recessed and it's not something that I'd associate as a takumar behaviour because I've not seen it in other takumars. For some reason I sold it but I regret getting rid of it and I'll probably buy another copy in the future.
14:11 you must try the fujinon 55/2.2
Great video Simon! I have a few lenses you discussed in the video such as Takumar 50/1.4 , both the 8-element version and 7-element version, Mamiya-Sekor 55/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8, Pentacon 50/1.8. They are all lovely in their own ways. When I shoot with them and other vintages such as Canon LTM, Contax Zeiss individually, I find my impressions/conclusions highly subjective. As you suggested, the bokeh renderings depend on many conditions, and even the same lens can produce very different renderings under different conditions. In order to see how they compare under very similar conditions, I did from time to time set up a series of tests, and to be honest, every time I did this kind of tests, I found them more in common than different. I shared some results on my Instagram if anyone is interested LOL.
I just tested 8 50mm lenses I own with some lights in my backyard. I will need to do this again in daylight
Awesome one!
Love this video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
All these lovely, hard, soft, glowy balls. Can we refer to them as 'spheres' in the future? Thanks for another fun vid!
Have you decided which one you like the most?
It seems to me you 're still on the fence
I'll show myself out...
Ha! You are so right. But having just pulled all these images together in one place for the first time, I'd say the two lenses/images that stood out to me were: (1) Tomioka Auto-Revuenon 55mm f1.2 for it's beautifully eccentric rendering; and (2) Takumar 58mm f2.4 because it has a little bit of everything - soap bubble bokeh. swirly bokeh, and it's very sharp wide open.
Great video! I have good results with MOG Trioplan 2.9/50 (it's really no brainer when it comes to great bokeh), but on the other side, I just cannot tame Schneider Kreuznach Xenon 0.95/50, extremely fast but hard to get good results with it
Do you use full frame or crop sensor camera with these lenses? Those are really nice photos!
Thank you! I use FF - a Sony a7iv and Pentax K-1; and crop (1.5 times crop) - a Sony a6000 and before that a Pentax K-3...
A super interesting video!
Thanks a lot! :)
I hated the Helios 44-2 when I first got it.
Went street shooting in Manhattan. Lots of light to play with. but my images came out boring.
Then I got a speedbooster. That enabled me to get the entire image circle from the lens onto the sensor.
Not only did I get a couple stops faster, but I was getting all the swirls in frame now. The crop sensor was only seeing the sharpest part in the middle before.
I also didn't like the preset mechanism at first. On my copy at least the front ring feels loose and doesn't engage firmly.
I've since gotten used to it. Using the mechanism to limit the travel of the iris is helpful because all of my M42 adapters put the aperture marking on the bottom!
Not just for the Helios, for all my M42 lenses. What is up with that!
I think, that i'm on the fence on buying one ;)
Revuenon doesn't stop there:
Tomioka Auto-Revuenon 55mm f=1.2
but also this:
Revuenon MC 55mm f=1.2
Are there big differences between these two lenses, or are they basically the same?
I have the latter with Pentax K mount.
I just got a few old vintage lenses, including a Fujinon 55mm f2.2 and a Helios 44-2. Both are very soft wide open, I need to stop down at least to f2.8 to get a somewhat sharp image. Are your images with the Helios 44-2 wide open??
Yes, wide open. I do sharpen my images, more often with a contrast boost than a sharpening tool. I wouldn't describe my Helios 44-2s as very soft wide open at the center, but images do often need processing. Some other old lenses are very soft wide open, and some people have said their Fujinon f2.2s are soft wide open.
@@Simonsutak true, the Fujinon is softer wide open than the Helios and the contrast is also reduced wide open compared to stopped down. Sometimes it looks like shot through silk curtain. And bright areas in the image get kind of a halo effect. But when you want the most bubble bokeh you have to use it wide open.
I have the pentagon zebra 50mm1.8 and it can produce some very nice bokeh even on my MFT camera. However, it way to soft wide open. I’m about to go full frame and I’m looking find the best lens for wild flower photography. But, it’s hard considering the minimum distance of many lenses.
Buy yourself a helicoid adapter for you full frame camera and you can decrease the MFD while adapting a lens at the same time. I shoot with a Leica SL 601 so I use a TT Artisans Leica M to Leica L helicoid adapter on my camera, so all adapters for my lenses are always M mount adapters ie. my Takumar lenses all have M42 to Leica M adapters. I piggy back the M42-M adapter with the M-L adapter and get infinity focus. I twist the helicoid when I want close focus.
If you have two different camera mounts this setup also saves you buying two sets of adapters for you lenses. For my MFT camera I buy one Leica M to MFT adapter and I can use any of my lenses with their existing Leica M adapters.
Thank you for another GREAT video!! You've inspired me to buy a good 44-2, Jupiter -8, and MGO 100 trioplan (new manufacture I got on good deal).
I'm still hunting for a good Helios 40....my question is, on these images, what camera body are you shooting on? A single digital you are adapting to, or are these several film cameras that natively work with different lenses?
Right now, I mostly adapt mine to my Leica M10M....I want to go try some on color, but not sure what to get for color...down the line thinking a Canon R5..?
I have a GFX100, but so far, not sure I"m liking FF lenses adapted to it yet....even cropping I just don't seem to get results I like so far.
So, wondering what you're using as a camera body to test all these lenses....your images just look so very very cool.
Thank you for your videos and thank you in advance for any reply you can give me!!
CC
Can't you just crop to full frame on the GFX in camera?
Several lenses I am still on the fence on 🤣
Love your videos!
Love your videos
Great vide!
Simon's : Please Oh I beg you : the A. Schact Ulm 90mm lens , I have the high aperture blade count lens , I LOVE this lens ...and ever ever ...never tire of it's spectacular ability.
My lens is the double barreled , Zebra type , they are classic German craftsmanship , in excellence , the lens is the : TRAVENAR 90mm F2.8 R model again , the " R " model.
You shan't be disappointed , I have a pair twins , both rebuild and fantastic gem's .... rebuilt years ago by a Japanese master whom Bellamy Hunt , once knew of.
Zebra version? How are these different than regular lens version please?
Hi Simon interesting video but perhaps too many lenses tested here :(
Danke
Does anyone know what tukamar lenses yellow?
You can look on-line for lists of radioactive lenses. They'll have yellowed - if they haven't been "cured" with UV light recently. But that doesn't cover the non-radio-active lenses that have coatings that have yellowed over time. I've never seen a list of those.....
Do you usually use a tripod
No, because the vast majority of shots are wide open and fast, they are hand-held. Plus I have to get into rather odd positions to get some of these compositions. And I prefer to take a snap quickly and move on, so as to not bother the house/fence owners! When I've needed to compare lenses formally, wide open and stopped down, I've tended to chose a different subject/composition.
Minolta 58mm 1.4 PF. Definitely
You happen to live around some beautiful fences!