Very nice build. I own an actual 1942 MB and the floors on either side of the transmission hump are smooth and not textured. The radiator shroud and radiator are black. The cylinder head mounting nuts are OD. The spark plug wires are black. although many WWII jeep owners refinish their pioneer tool handles to natural wood, WWII handles were OD. Carburetor horn is black, The mufflers are always red oxide as the OD burns off after one drive. Don't forget the oil stains, underneath - they all leak like sieves! I would have put the tire between the front bumper and radiator rather than the side, since the tubs were not reinforced in that area and the weight would not be supported. Nice work!
@@DarkSideModeler lol ça reste tout à fait compréhensible, c'est l'essentiel. astuce: quand tu veux dire "the" dis simplement "de", tu seras bcp + proche de la bonne prononciation ;)
Very nice! Although never seen a motorcycle on the rear only.the money bike on the front of them the suspension decks out with 3 troops in the thing on the rear I liked the airdrop one you did last time that was cool as heck! Add a wee bit of AKs Transparator or a glaze medium vallejo into the ivory it'll not come out as gritty like thick and won't go near as thin like a thinner would make it you'll still get the full effect cool effect though!
I wars very surprise to se the bike on the rear but I round it in comemoration french book. For sure it is not the usuel installation. Thanks for your comment, I will try your recommandation for the tires !
That was a fantastic on the Jeep and motorcycle, the weathering was great, keep safe and well in tnese crazy covid times, very bext regards from a Kiwi living in Australia, and you have yourself another subscriber.
Is it safe to use Tamiya TS-13 ( lacquer based clear coat) on completed models, after using Vellejo acrylics & setting the decals? Or even a Tamiya rattle can even. I'm confused on the clear coating part. What to use after painting for decals & then what to use after decals and weathering process to seal everything in for use in a diorama or display case.
Hi, I use the tamiya clear varnish after the base paint to protect it and to have a smooth surface to apply the decal and after the decal application to protect it but also to have decal edge less visible. The weathering products are a it agressive and so 2 layers of clear varnish is the minimum (as per my experience) to be sure to not dammage anything. moreover, if you make a mistake, you can correct it without to restart allthe painting etc... Finally, after weathering I finish with a flat clear varnish layer to seal everything. Did I answer to your question?
@@DarkSideModeler I think so.. Basically the Tamiya clear coat won't damage the decals or the paint? But this is only for alcohol based acrylics.. like the Tamiya XF line in your experience? Not with water based acrylics like Vallejo or AK paints? I am almost forced to use a "rattle can" clear protective coat, like what Tamiya offers..because I don't have an airbrush (yet). I will eventually. I also have a mix of Tamiya & Vallejo paints at my disposal. A buddy of mine is isn't Warhammer & gives me all these darker military colors that he will never use for his bright army. Prior to this.. It was strictly mostly enamel Testors, which is pretty resistant to anything. But I want to expand the hobby as I'm getting older. No more with the Testors.
I don't think that the varnish type TS will damage your paint if you apply it with a spray can or an airbrush but it si not recommanded. my rule is from first to last : enamel, alcool base product, water base arcrylic. one more layer of varnish type X-20/X-22 and I use oil paint. Concerning the melt Tamiya/vallejo paint, I never test it so I can't say anything. I melt Vallejo/Ammo or AK/tamiya depending of my stock... in my point of view it is easier to work with acrylic than enamel. Easier to prepare, to thin or to clean but the more important in my opinion is to work with product that you feel confortable and not change to each model. When I change my usual product I spend time to test all the process (painting, varnish, weathering) on test plat (plastic milk caps ar good for this because there are several form and marking). I think it is important to spend a bit of time to test the combination. you can also use plastic spoon.
@@DarkSideModeler So you basically stick with X-22 thinned with X-20a as a clear coat / protecttive coat between steps & have had no issues with that? I'm pretty much done with my Testors enamel paints. I'm switching to Tamiya hybrid acrylics & water based acrylics. Sometimes it's just super confusing what can be used and what can't be used. Especially when weathering with Tamiya's panel liner or brush painting smaller details with a different paint (water based for example).. than the base coat and weathering procedure (tamiya hybrid alcohol based acrylics for example). It sounds like a bottle of X-22 clear is what I need when I get a premium airbrush. I really do appreciate you taking the time in explaining this to me!!
Sure ! I will. For the tamiya kit: Amazon, PE for jeep coming from Eduard and for the bike it comes from AK. I will indicate the link in description later today.
@@DarkSideModeler Thank you. I was able to find the jeep but not the other items. I served in both the Marines and the Army and this vehicle was the one I drove most. I'm a detail oriented kind of person so I would want to do all of the upgrades available. Great build, by the way, especially the painting and weathering.
So the reference for the BSA M20 : www.amazon.fr/Tamiya-35316-Maquette-Dassaut-Britannique/dp/B005M0ZLWK The PE for BSA M20 : www.1999.co.jp/eng/10671777 The PE. For the Willys : www.eduard.com/eduard/jeep-willys-1-35.html?listtype=search&searchparam=jeep I hope you will share your models !
Very nice build. I own an actual 1942 MB and the floors on either side of the transmission hump are smooth and not textured. The radiator shroud and radiator are black. The cylinder head mounting nuts are OD. The spark plug wires are black. although many WWII jeep owners refinish their pioneer tool handles to natural wood, WWII handles were OD. Carburetor horn is black, The mufflers are always red oxide as the OD burns off after one drive. Don't forget the oil stains, underneath - they all leak like sieves! I would have put the tire between the front bumper and radiator rather than the side, since the tubs were not reinforced in that area and the weight would not be supported. Nice work!
MAny thanks for your comment. I will take in account all your constructive remarks.
Good construct and (bon accent français aussi)
Merci pour ton commentaire. L'accent, ca se travail ! 😂
Beautyful
Many thanks!
Hernoso trabajo 😊
Gracias !
Fantastic video
Many thanks
superbe travail et au moins j'arrive a comprendre ton anglais sans avoir besoin des sous titre "so cool" merci !
Merci c’est tout l’intérêt d’avoir un anglais tout pourrit !🤣
lol au premier "ze" je me suis dit "tiens ça c'est un Français"
@@SDOne-or6vm mdr... faut une marque de fabrique... Moi c’est l’accent franchouillard !
@@DarkSideModeler lol ça reste tout à fait compréhensible, c'est l'essentiel.
astuce: quand tu veux dire "the" dis simplement "de", tu seras bcp + proche de la bonne prononciation ;)
Love the weathering on these vehicles and the photo etched bits really make the motorbike stand out.
Many thanks!
You're making a great work!~~~~ That's a great job! That's amazing~~~~!
Many many thanks for your comment!
super bravo très intéressant
Merci beaucoup !
Great job you do
Great video - thank you!
Thanks !
very nice!
Thanks !
Excelent vídeo, strong like .
Many thanks !
Enjoyed the video thank you, but where did you source the decals for the dashboard and fire extinguishers?
thanks a lot. I use the decal supplied with the kit.
It was nice to be able to refer to the necessary assembly video.
Thank you for sharing a great video.😄👍😄👍😄
Have a good day. 💪😀💪
Many thanks !
Very nice! Although never seen a motorcycle on the rear only.the money bike on the front of them the suspension decks out with 3 troops in the thing on the rear I liked the airdrop one you did last time that was cool as heck! Add a wee bit of AKs Transparator or a glaze medium vallejo into the ivory it'll not come out as gritty like thick and won't go near as thin like a thinner would make it you'll still get the full effect cool effect though!
I wars very surprise to se the bike on the rear but I round it in comemoration french book. For sure it is not the usuel installation. Thanks for your comment, I will try your recommandation for the tires !
😃 j’ai presque fini ce kit
Very nice 👍😍👍
Fantastic video and build, your channel is one of the best on TH-cam thanks for sharing. You have yet another subscriber .
Thank you so much for your comment !
Nice models !🙂
Thanks !
Very nice work, look forward to see more
Many thanks !
That was a fantastic on the Jeep and motorcycle, the weathering was great, keep safe and well in tnese crazy covid times, very bext regards from a Kiwi living in Australia, and you have yourself another subscriber.
Many thanks for your comments ! And welcome on the channel. I loved Australia even if I visit only the region of Perth...
Nice job. Subscribed
Many thanks !
Prachtig!!!!
Thank you !
Also where did the etched brass for the motorcycle come from?
The etched brass was withthe kit if I remember well. If not (please check on scalemate.com) it coming from eduard.
Is it safe to use Tamiya TS-13 ( lacquer based clear coat) on completed models, after using Vellejo acrylics & setting the decals? Or even a Tamiya rattle can even. I'm confused on the clear coating part. What to use after painting for decals & then what to use after decals and weathering process to seal everything in for use in a diorama or display case.
Hi, I use the tamiya clear varnish after the base paint to protect it and to have a smooth surface to apply the decal and after the decal application to protect it but also to have decal edge less visible.
The weathering products are a it agressive and so 2 layers of clear varnish is the minimum (as per my experience) to be sure to not dammage anything. moreover, if you make a mistake, you can correct it without to restart allthe painting etc...
Finally, after weathering I finish with a flat clear varnish layer to seal everything.
Did I answer to your question?
@@DarkSideModeler I think so.. Basically the Tamiya clear coat won't damage the decals or the paint? But this is only for alcohol based acrylics.. like the Tamiya XF line in your experience? Not with water based acrylics like Vallejo or AK paints? I am almost forced to use a "rattle can" clear protective coat, like what Tamiya offers..because I don't have an airbrush (yet). I will eventually. I also have a mix of Tamiya & Vallejo paints at my disposal. A buddy of mine is isn't Warhammer & gives me all these darker military colors that he will never use for his bright army. Prior to this.. It was strictly mostly enamel Testors, which is pretty resistant to anything. But I want to expand the hobby as I'm getting older. No more with the Testors.
I don't think that the varnish type TS will damage your paint if you apply it with a spray can or an airbrush but it si not recommanded. my rule is from first to last : enamel, alcool base product, water base arcrylic. one more layer of varnish type X-20/X-22 and I use oil paint.
Concerning the melt Tamiya/vallejo paint, I never test it so I can't say anything. I melt Vallejo/Ammo or AK/tamiya depending of my stock...
in my point of view it is easier to work with acrylic than enamel. Easier to prepare, to thin or to clean but the more important in my opinion is to work with product that you feel confortable and not change to each model.
When I change my usual product I spend time to test all the process (painting, varnish, weathering) on test plat (plastic milk caps ar good for this because there are several form and marking).
I think it is important to spend a bit of time to test the combination. you can also use plastic spoon.
@@DarkSideModeler So you basically stick with X-22 thinned with X-20a as a clear coat / protecttive coat between steps & have had no issues with that? I'm pretty much done with my Testors enamel paints. I'm switching to Tamiya hybrid acrylics & water based acrylics. Sometimes it's just super confusing what can be used and what can't be used. Especially when weathering with Tamiya's panel liner or brush painting smaller details with a different paint (water based for example).. than the base coat and weathering procedure (tamiya hybrid alcohol based acrylics for example). It sounds like a bottle of X-22 clear is what I need when I get a premium airbrush. I really do appreciate you taking the time in explaining this to me!!
Great job ! Thanks for sharing your talents. Did you make the masks for windshield or can they be purchased somewhere? ✌🇨🇦✌
Many thanks! The mais for windshield is included in the Edouard PE part. You can allo do it yourself with masking tape it is very easy.
It sure would have been nice if you had posted links to where these items can be purchased.
Sure ! I will. For the tamiya kit: Amazon, PE for jeep coming from Eduard and for the bike it comes from AK. I will indicate the link in description later today.
@@DarkSideModeler Thank you. I was able to find the jeep but not the other items. I served in both the Marines and the Army and this vehicle was the one I drove most. I'm a detail oriented kind of person so I would want to do all of the upgrades available. Great build, by the way, especially the painting and weathering.
So the reference for the BSA M20 :
www.amazon.fr/Tamiya-35316-Maquette-Dassaut-Britannique/dp/B005M0ZLWK
The PE for BSA M20 :
www.1999.co.jp/eng/10671777
The PE. For the Willys :
www.eduard.com/eduard/jeep-willys-1-35.html?listtype=search&searchparam=jeep
I hope you will share your models !
@@DarkSideModeler Thanks. That helps a lot.
Tre bon
how do you make those machine gun bullets please
sorry for my late answer... I only painted the one in the kit.
As the owner of a 44 Willys there are some glaring mistakes here.
Please get rid of the music.
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe
Merci beaucoup !
@@DarkSideModeler thank my friend subscribe subscribe