My Patreon: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek ZWO ASI585 MC Pro Camera: bit.ly/3Iwo6y8 (Agena) or bit.ly/4cp1Ofn (High Point Scientific) Full specs: www.zwoastro.com/product/asi585mc-pro/ Camera specs video: th-cam.com/video/GKXkM_FbFgg/w-d-xo.html Light pollution is always bad video: th-cam.com/video/kiUMplqeyjQ/w-d-xo.html ---- Alternatives ---- TOUPTEK IMX585 Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/3z54r5bs OGMA version with local US support (use code CUIV on checkout for a small discount!): getogma.com/ PlayerOne Uranus C Pro: player-one-astronomy.com/product/uranus-c-pro-usb3-0-color-camera-imx585/ ---- Similar but more general purpose ---- ZWO ASI533MC Pro: bit.ly/3TJLWwC (Agena) or bit.ly/3IOlfkk (HPS) Cable organizers (and more): www.etsy.com/shop/SmartComponents Amazon affiliate: amzn.to/3hTB5Ne Agena affiliate: bit.ly/3Om0hNG High Point Scientific affiliate: bit.ly/3lReu8R All-Star Telescope affiliate: bit.ly/3SCgVbV Astroshop.eu Affiliate: tinyurl.com/2vafkax8 Dwarf 2 Smart Telescope: bit.ly/3SyChXua Seestar S50: tinyurl.com/3n62hpzx
I started off with the original 585 when I was getting into astrophotography last year and it was great. I got lucky and almost never had any dust spots, so after a while I completely stopped taking calibration frames because they just weren't necessary. I couldn't tell the difference between images processed with and without calibration frames. Then I recently upgraded to an SV405cc (IMX294 sensor) and I realised just how easy I had it with the 585, and I pretty much had to learn about calibration frames all over again! But yea, the 585 definitely deserves its own cooler, it's a great little camera..
Oh yeah the IMX294 sensor is infamous! It can be tamed if you use dark frames, don't use bias, and use flats and flat darks that are longer than 3 seconds!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Yea, I eventually figured this out about using dark flats and no bias frames, through a fair bit of trial and error. But now that you mention it, I think I remember hearing about the "3 second rule" for flats (because this camera is apparently inconsistent when taking short exposures), but I completely forgot about it until now, so thanks for reminding me! I think my last set were around 1s, and they didn't seem to be too bad. I was torn between getting the 405 and the 605 (with the IMX533 sensor) because they were the same price, but I think I must like punishing myself because the SV605cc just sounded a little bit boring, and I was immediately drawn to the IMX294 sensor when I heard it was hard to handle! 🤣 I suppose astrophotography does draw the type of people who like messing around with gadgets..
Great review thanks! I bought the uncooled version a while ago and am using the peltier cooler taken from a USB fridge to cool it 😛 And even though the cooler doesn't work very well only goes down to 10 C below ambient it's enough to make a big difference on my darks when tested with 30 sec exposures 🙂
Hola!! Muchas gracias por compartir tu experiencia! Me anima a iniciarme con esta cámara para focales cortas y tener otra alternativa a una DSRL. Saludos desde Argentina!
Another great video there. I currently have the 585MC uncooled version and love it. My only gripe is that I need to take at least 10 dark frames at the end of each night (not so great when taking 5 minute lights as it takes away almost an hour's imaging time doing that). When finances allow, I would love either this Pro version or the 533MC. Keep those great videos coming 😊
Just bought one this week Cuiv. Now I'm just waiting for the clouds to clear to try it out. In the UK they sell for £619 which I think makes it the cheapest cooled camera available here. The main reason I bought it was to replace my aging cropped sensor DSLR on my grab and go rigs. It will be used with my CAT51 and 81GT refractors with an ASIAir mini for control. I will also give it a try with my SY 135 f2 as well. How easy was it to connect to Sharp Cap? Would I need to download any drivers etc? One thing I didn't like was the ZWO filter draw I bought with it, the magnets are rubbish and the locking screw will be a nightmare to adjust with cold hands in the dark. The Altair Astro model is much more secure. I have no complaints about other ZWO gear I use though. Best regards.
Congrats on getting yours! Enjoy the power of cooled astrophotography! Sharpcap just worked! And yeah agreed on the ZWO filter drawer, it's so easy for the drawer to just fall off...
That's great NEWS (I bought the Asi1585mc to use primarily with my C6), it's good they decided to make the cooler version. As always, thank you for good info!
@AstrophotographyUnderMSSkies I spent a fair amount of time on astronomy tools site testing the Field of View tool between all my scopes combination with that astro camera, mostly with the Bin setting at 1x1. I also compared the C6's native focal length (1500mm) to the use of the f6.3 reducer. I really liked the magnification of that sensor size and the C6. Unfortunately, as I was starting to take it into the field, I became ill and I'm just now ready to get back to it. It's almost been a year and I'm anxious to get back. Sorry I couldn't give a better answer, but I'm most encourage with the that combo. Using Astronomy Tools > Frield of View is a great way to plan sessions.
You Sir, are 1 of the very few who create HONEST evaluations of products. I thank you for being honest, maintaining your integrity and not succumbing to pressure from suppliers to make evaluations which are GARBAGE. Excellent review. I encourage others to stop watching channels that review products, but they KI@@###ISS the behind of suppliers - Mr. Cuiv is honest. Again, thank you, Sir.
It's interesting that ZWO (and Player One on their Uranus-C) doesn't include the HDR mode that touptek does, but considering that the touptek was having banding isues on that mode maybe ZWO considered it wasn't worth it to implement it.
I have received a better firmware from Touptek, but for some reason the evolution and studies was delaying on this camera mode. I was in contact with a developer. But dew heater is a must for this type of sensor, so Touptek is better.
Wow! I must have ESP! For the second time I made a purchase and right afterward I find a video from you that makes me feel like I made a good decision. Yesterday I purchased the Player One Uranus-C PRO. I was thinking that wouldn't it be cool if Cuiv made a shootout video comparing the same cameras from ZWO, Touptek, and Player One to see how or if the small differences in the specifications show up in the results or usage.
Nice! I recently started using an Svbony sv705c which is an uncooled camera with the same sensor. I got it on a good sale and have gotten much better results from it than I did from my DLSR and I am excited to see more cooled cameras with that sensor. I may end up getting either the Player One version or the ZWO version when I have the extra cash, but I have other things with my setup that I need to replace/buy first.
Cuiv, the ToupTek has an Argon-filled camera chamber where the ZWO doesn't. That "Do Not Remove" label is there for a reason and this might help explain why the ToupTek cools faster. Love the videos... ;-)
Can you cover the difference between the AR and IR cut filter versions? I'm interested in purchasing but honestly I'm not sure the tradeoffs/use cases for each.
AR doesn't have any filter, but if you don't add some, you get blurry image from infrared emission (infrared have a different focal point). IR have already a filter for infrared, that you can't remove.
I would always recommend the AR version - you do need to always be using a filter then (like a UV/IR cut filter when shooting broadband), while at the same time having the IR range available should you wish to use it (such as with the IDAS GNB filter). Also you're then avoid any risk of the camera cut filter performing no up to spec and cutting some of the signal you want :D
Nice video. Thanks for the analysis Cuiv. Actually, I am more bothered by the 12 bit ADC than by the small size of the sensor. It’s curious that they kept this older tech for this new camera. So I think I will keep my 533MC Pro for my Celestron 8 inch edge. IMHO, the increased resolution offered by the slightly smaller pixels doesn’t compensate for the 4x worst ADC (12 bits vs 14 bits).
It's not ZWO's fault but Sony's :D To be honest I see 12 bit ADC as a non-issue, as long as you stay within the dynamic range of the sensor for your subframes (and then the DR gets recovered by stacking). ADC combined with gain gives you the well depth, add the read noise in the mix and you get the dynamic range. So the curves completely include the ADC in the first place - as such ADC is a means to an end, and not a spec I look at. The only issue with ADC that is not included in he curves would be quantization error and even that gets recovered with stacking! You can see my full reasoning here: th-cam.com/video/GKXkM_FbFgg/w-d-xo.html
Hi cuiv, great video love your enthusiasm for astrophotography. I am awaiting the altair version of this camera, same sensor so im wondering if it would be the same unity gain you recommend and the same offset.?
I actually took my touptek imx 585 apart to see if there was any way of shortening (there wasn't) the backfocus length, and the camera is packed with small bags with ailica gel.. I don't know if any other manufactures does the same, but this came to surprise to me and looks kinda strange. But it makes sense to use that.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Humm not 100% sure but sensor looked as was inside another smaller compartment and that I didn't open. But it is still working fine. Anyway I'm just going to use it with a 24/7 Indi allsky setup. Software and settings is already setup, just waiting for some different fisheye lenses and some pvc pipes and domes 🙂 Weather in Denmark is hopeless. I think we had 10 nights of clear sky since November🙄
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Ahh well you live and learn 🙂I just read some threads about on CN forum and I guess I will find out sooner than later if it had any effect. It does seam that the chamber with argon was opened. Anyway it's fixable when and if it will be a problem. And if I understand correctly another method is to use an desiccant tube in the side where the screw is. It was used like that in the past. I see TS optics sells them. I honestly don't think it will make much difference but time will tell 🙂
Great video! I noticed your appreciation for the small pixels of the 585. I'm curious to hear your opinion or review about another intriguing ZWO camera, the 715, which features ultra-tiny 1.5-micron pixels. Do you think this would be an advantage or a disadvantage, considering that smaller pixel size tends to produce a weaker signal? Thanks!
Bonjour Cuiv, En premier lieu, merci pour tes videos que je suis depuis longtemps et qui sont plus "scientifiques" que la plupart des autres. Au vu de cette video, j'ai deux petites questions: 1.- Je ne m'intéresse qu'au ciel profond et surtouts aux nébuleuses. Mon équipement est très basique: un DSLR (Canon 80d defiltré + filtre clipon dual band)) et un objo Canon 300mm f4 (d'occase, vieux et plein de coups, mais optiquement excellent) + 1 asiair plus et une lunette de guidage. J'obtiens des images assez correctes, mais j'aimerais les améliorer. Si je remplace le DSLR par une caméra astro refroidie, cela ferait-il une différence vraiment significative sur la qualité d' images? 2. pour mon usage, j'ai compris que tu conseilles la 533 plutôt que la 585, nettement moins chère. Là aussi, le gain en IQ serait-il vraiment sighnificatif? Merci Francis (Belgique)
Je dirais que tu aurais un gain significatif en IQ (et en comfort - besoin que de flats et bias pour calibration) en passant de la DSLR à la 585. Le gain en allant de la 585 à la 533 est bien moindre!
Réponse bien claire, merci. Ce sera donc là 585, surtout qu'elle est a 600€ chez 1 un marchand sérieux, soit 500€ de moins qu'une 533. Je me réjouis de pouvoir sortir en été sans me soucier du bruit du a la température!
I thought the same. That would be a great option for those who can't afford more expensive ones but want to buy their first mono to experiment and learn new techniques in AP.
Good review, thank you. Have you got a view or any comments regarding the comparison of the 585 cooled v uncooled? This would be my first Astro cam for a small refractor.
I would probably go for the 533 if budget allows since you likely don't need the small pixels unless you want to do lucky imaging. Also check the imaging circle of your reducer
Thank you replying, also going to get Hyperstar after watching your videos. Was planning on the 533, but then the 585 came out and thought it may be ok ,also cheaper.
Cuiv, Always enjoy your videos and your obvious excitement for this hobby! How do you get such detail with only 30-second exposures from a large city? I'm in a Bortle 4-5, also using a Newt, and my images at 120" or even 180" of these galaxies are never that sharp. Thanks!
Yeah it looks nice for sure! For ZWO you do need to buy their title plate (that replaces the 11mm adapter that comes with the camera) so it's an additional expense
The only telescope I own is a Dwarf 2. That got freshly dropped on concrete....hard. It still works! But I did a thing.... Cried twice.... I just bought this camera with a redcat 51 v3. Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi , ASI air and EAF next week. I'm really excited.
I have the Poseidon-C pro... imx571 sensor. I was going to try it on planetary, but this one seems better suited for that.... It's pretty cheap also, maybe a future purchase? 🤔
Great video, thanks. I'm shopping for a camera for my EdgeHD9.25" for DSO, what would be your recommendation, in 2024, for an astrophotography with $3k budget?
That's a beast of a scope, and it should support an APS-C size sensor - in that case it's a no brainer to go for the IMX571 sensor IMO. And if you want to not have to use an OAG, the ZWO Duo version of it might be your best bet (bit.ly/3M8IkPS) . It even has a monochrome version now! (bit.ly/3vvj6GY)
Cuiv. As always a very informative and helpful video congrats! I also have the same camera, EAF, 120mm guide Cam and the ASIAIR. My scope is an Omegon 104 Ed 650 mm focal length with a .8x focal reducer before the 55mm back focus. My problem is I cannot get any stars to focus manually or af with EAF so polar aligning and plate solving is out of the question. I have made sure the focal length is 520mm in the software. Do you have any suggestions or help please?
I'm not familiar with that scope, but are you 100% sure you have the 55mm back focus (including the 11+6.5mm taken by the camera)? If you can't reach focus (have you tried on distant terrestrial targets?), then I suspect the reducer or the back focus for it... Could be something to ask Omegon about as well!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek 100% sure on the current back focus, I am going to ask Omegon as you suggest, because I tried focusing on a castle in St.Aubin’s Bay which is about 2km out but no luck there either.
Update from Omegon:- They are suggesting a 50mm extension tube before the focal reducer should bring me into focus.. Unfortunately the weather has gone bad this weekend so not sure when I will get to test their theory out. I remain somewhat sceptical that this is all it is, but I will hope for the best result. :)
Many thanks for pointing out that the drivers for my Gemini were on your chanel, I now have that working thanks to you. I am also about to buy this camera, or the 533. My telescope is a 200mm with a 1000mm Fl, which camera would you suggest? I won't hold you to your answer but as a beginner I really would apreciate any advice you can give me. Also just joined your patrion.
Hello! I really like the way you explain things...I would really appreciate if you could recommend a astro camera that I could use with my 2 telescopes ( 14" Dobsonian F/4.6, FL 1650mm without tracking( manual) and 12" LX200 SCT F/10, FL 3048mm with tracking) I know they both have big and huge focal length ... I'm looking for something that will be capture super sharp pictures of the moon , planets...and some small DSO ( ring, Dumbbell , some globular star cluster, small galaxies, etc). Thank you!
With such long focal length, you will be limited by seeing, although lucky imaging will help with that. If aiming for planets I think this sensor is good, but planetary and lunar is not my area of expertise...
Hello from France ! Thanks for this video Cuiv ! I used the uncooled version for about a year now. I was really happy with it. I got the cooled one 2 weeks ago and tested it on Horsehead nebula. I use it coupled with 61EDPHII and FMA180. It's indeed a great bargain with short focal lenght. I used the uncooled at gain 252 and 180s subs and tried the new one at lower gain 80 and 300s exposure on Barnard 33. I try to improve sharpness on this target... I was wondering if it was a matter of guiding or focusing. Maybe should I get zwo EF ? Even if my subs look pretty well, I think there is still some noise on my final image. Should I take more darks ? I think that ASIAIR plus propose a maximum of 20 darks to get a "masterdark". Is it better to take more darks ? How many should I get ? The great news is that I'll now be able to create a dark library thanks to the cooling system. PS: It looks terrific coupled with zwo OAG !
If you want to go cheap then look at the ASI715 with my after market cooler. I guess I sent you a mail just too late. A missed opportunity to do a nice comparison.
Just saw it now - not a missed opportunity, I wouldn't have done such a comparison as part of a review video. It would need its own video, but I can foresee already a lot of work involved so not sure I'd be able to. Replied to your email!
The true selling point for me (or lack...) is : did ZWO altered the antireflection coating of the 585 in order to do Venus Nightside imaging... Player One 585 can do it. Don't know for the cooled version btw...
The only reason I can see your Touptek cools so rapidly, If you have the cooling time in NINA set to zero. If you set a time it will then progressively cool the camera as to be expected.
Same settings for both cameras :) I'm perfectly fine with fast cool down on Touptek since it has its powerful dew heater and the sensor chamber is argon purged. It's just the algos within the camera drivers controlling the rate of cooling!
Hey Cuiv... Camera question, please: I bought a ZWO 183MC a few years ago for my Evolution 6" SCT due to the high-resolution 20MB sensor and its size would easily clear the mount base. My reasoning as a life-long pro photographer was the more pixels the better. It turns out that I should have gone for the cooled version for DSO. SO... Now in 2024, what's my best choice for an upgraded ZWO color camera that I could use with my 60mm f/5, 80mm f/6, and 6" SCT? My targets would be the usual easy stuff. Meanwhile, I guess my 183 would be fine for the moon, bright planets, and M42. Thanks for your thoughts, and good luck to us all here in Texas for clear skies during the eclipse.
More pixels not necessarily better, it's really about the pixel size/pitch (and then for a fixed pixel size, more pixels then just means larger sensor :) ). If you're looking for the usual easy stuff, I'd recommend the ASI2600MC Pro (bit.ly/3FMNLkS) or the Pro Duo if you want to get rid of the need for a guide scope (bit.ly/3M8IkPS). And if that's above your budget, then the 533MC Pro is my next recommendation! ( bit.ly/3Iwo6y8). I hope this helps! And yes, fingers crossed for the eclipse!
Thanks Cuiv....I plan on shooting video of the eclipse with my SeeStar. I'll have to practice fist with the filter. Not sure what I'll get during darkness. Love your stuff, watch it all, though much is a bit over my head. I'm trying to learn Siril and it's plugins. It's a lot like Photoshop, only not as refined. But hey, it's free! Take care...would be great if you did some kind of guest lecture while in the Texas area. Just say'n....
If I say I want to choose between the 533MC pro and the 585MC pro, but my budget allows me only the latter one....Would it be a great mistake to buy the 585MCpro?....
i just got the zwo asi678mc and 585mc the 585 is great for galaxies and planetary neb while the 678 is my new goto for solar lunar and planets and the 294mc is my DSO camera. each camera has a purpose and does great
Do we need a uv/ir cut filter? I'm in bortal 5-6 and I'm confused with the uv/iv filter ....what exactly is the reason for the filter vs naked sensor. Thank you for this video
Hey Cuiv, thanks for the amazing video. Can you do a side-to-side image comparison between asi533mc pro and asi585mc pro? Im debating which one to buy, and i would appreciate if you could do the comparison. Thanks in advance!
I no longer own the 533MC Pro! But I've compared the small pixels of the 585 to the larger pixels of the 571 (effectively the same as the 533, but larger) in my initial reviews of the Touptek 585
Hopefully they will introduce a mono version. Cuive, I have a question. I have read through the specs and they have a gap in information compared to other cameras. They say the FPS is up to 46.9 FPS. So my question is. Is the FPS listed at full sensor? If not what is the capture rate at full frame?
Yup, that's full 4K resolution (I have the original asi585mc) edit: I think that's at RAW8 transfer mode, not the full 12 bit dr. I have 12 bit set and an older USB 3 port and get nearly 30 fps 😢
I hesitated to say I would set the gain to 253 just to be sure and thus start another trend in the community but held myself back :D 100 or 101, doesn't make a difference, 100 is fine :D
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Cuiv has his own army of gain101s, if you look around on astrobin and cloudy nights forum! 😂 On the other hand, believe it or not, when I did the Sharpcap analysis on my own 533 and also did a recommended exposure time, it recommended me to use gain 103 as unitiy gain! 😲
To compensate for smaller pixel size, there by smaller field of view, can focal reducer is advisable for large focal length telescopes like ritchey chretein? Pls do guide.
New to Astro from photographic background i think what u want to use is so under covered for me dwarf 2 for wide and a cassa for planets .Is it me or has wide really dominated and the neglected planetary will say planets ...hard .Also fitting new additions into the image train is rocket science .Team planet and wide aka nebs galaxyfor now
Okay, I’m a newbie to this astrophotography and I bought all the Zwo echo system but I’m having trouble seeing anything through that same camera . Just don’t see anything at all. If you could help would be great. It seems like it needs some kind of focus.
Now that ZWO has given a favor for the budget guys (585) and for the rich guys (2600), how about us, middle of the road guys? I've been waiting for a 4/3rd sensor for years! ZWO should release a new one to replace the aging 294!
Have a question with this camera? I do not run a field flattener with my 90mm telescope because of the price. Do you need to have 55mm back focus because the instructions do not say you have to or not. Pretty confused with this since I’m new to astrophotography. A lot to learn.
Is it an idea to buy this camera for smaller galaxies instead of buying for example a C8 edge hd? With my current askar 80phq and 2600mc the FOV is way too large for that.
Smaller pixels do get you an extra oomph in resolution, provided it is within the Dawes limit of your scope (I have an entire video on the topic), so it's a good first step! In the end that's what I'm doing with my Newt :D
I haven't tested it recently on the Touptek - yeah it had a long period where it had banding issues, I think Touptek released a new firmware to fix it but I haven't tested...
When you are buying these cameras in Europe, the ZWO version is about 60USD more expensive than the Touptek version, and it is close to 800USD. But still i just ordered the ZWO version last night, i am tired of waiting the Touptek Astrostation to be released internationally. At leas i know ASIAir works fine.
Hi Cuiv, i have built a setup consisting of 135mm, 200mm, 300mm camera lens and also a C6 with reducer. I live in a bortle 4 zone. I was just about to order the 533MC Pro but this has now been released and now i'm not sure which of these camera's do order. Any advice? Thanks.
Hello @CuivTheLazyGeek just one question. I have the 2600mc pro and the Askar 103 Apo, have been looking at the 585mc pro for planetary Nebulae , but have been advised that the 2600 cropped is just as good. But from what I understand having more pixels on the target will give better images rather than cropping. Your opinion please. One really confused geek.
Yep, or another way to put it: you can only use the ASIAIR if you use only ZWO cameras :) I personally find using a PC more convenient (more features I need, auto sync of all images to my processing PC, just click play on my saved sequences to run a night), but to each their own!
My Patreon: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
ZWO ASI585 MC Pro Camera: bit.ly/3Iwo6y8 (Agena) or bit.ly/4cp1Ofn (High Point Scientific)
Full specs: www.zwoastro.com/product/asi585mc-pro/
Camera specs video: th-cam.com/video/GKXkM_FbFgg/w-d-xo.html
Light pollution is always bad video: th-cam.com/video/kiUMplqeyjQ/w-d-xo.html
---- Alternatives ----
TOUPTEK IMX585 Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/3z54r5bs
OGMA version with local US support (use code CUIV on checkout for a small discount!): getogma.com/
PlayerOne Uranus C Pro: player-one-astronomy.com/product/uranus-c-pro-usb3-0-color-camera-imx585/
---- Similar but more general purpose ----
ZWO ASI533MC Pro: bit.ly/3TJLWwC (Agena) or bit.ly/3IOlfkk (HPS)
Cable organizers (and more): www.etsy.com/shop/SmartComponents
Amazon affiliate: amzn.to/3hTB5Ne
Agena affiliate: bit.ly/3Om0hNG
High Point Scientific affiliate: bit.ly/3lReu8R
All-Star Telescope affiliate: bit.ly/3SCgVbV
Astroshop.eu Affiliate: tinyurl.com/2vafkax8
Dwarf 2 Smart Telescope: bit.ly/3SyChXua
Seestar S50: tinyurl.com/3n62hpzx
I started off with the original 585 when I was getting into astrophotography last year and it was great. I got lucky and almost never had any dust spots, so after a while I completely stopped taking calibration frames because they just weren't necessary. I couldn't tell the difference between images processed with and without calibration frames.
Then I recently upgraded to an SV405cc (IMX294 sensor) and I realised just how easy I had it with the 585, and I pretty much had to learn about calibration frames all over again!
But yea, the 585 definitely deserves its own cooler, it's a great little camera..
Oh yeah the IMX294 sensor is infamous! It can be tamed if you use dark frames, don't use bias, and use flats and flat darks that are longer than 3 seconds!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Yea, I eventually figured this out about using dark flats and no bias frames, through a fair bit of trial and error. But now that you mention it, I think I remember hearing about the "3 second rule" for flats (because this camera is apparently inconsistent when taking short exposures), but I completely forgot about it until now, so thanks for reminding me! I think my last set were around 1s, and they didn't seem to be too bad.
I was torn between getting the 405 and the 605 (with the IMX533 sensor) because they were the same price, but I think I must like punishing myself because the SV605cc just sounded a little bit boring, and I was immediately drawn to the IMX294 sensor when I heard it was hard to handle! 🤣
I suppose astrophotography does draw the type of people who like messing around with gadgets..
I ordered mine when it dropped, just got shipping notification. Stoked to get my hands on it
Woohoo, enjoy it!
Seems like a very interesting proposition! Great video as always Cuiv!
Thanks so much, and thanks for your support!
Cuiv, another great review, thank you. Also thank you for the link to the light pollution video.
Great review thanks! I bought the uncooled version a while ago and am using the peltier cooler taken from a USB fridge to cool it 😛 And even though the cooler doesn't work very well only goes down to 10 C below ambient it's enough to make a big difference on my darks when tested with 30 sec exposures 🙂
That's great! A lot of people going with DIY coolers is awesome :)
Always a great review from Cuiv!
Thank you for your very thorough review. I've had a lot of fun with zwo 585 (original) for DSOs (+ both fma180 and 10" dobs).
it's awesome to see that the planetary model was being used for deep space anyway!
Hola!! Muchas gracias por compartir tu experiencia! Me anima a iniciarme con esta cámara para focales cortas y tener otra alternativa a una DSRL. Saludos desde Argentina!
Another great video there. I currently have the 585MC uncooled version and love it. My only gripe is that I need to take at least 10 dark frames at the end of each night (not so great when taking 5 minute lights as it takes away almost an hour's imaging time doing that). When finances allow, I would love either this Pro version or the 533MC. Keep those great videos coming 😊
Thanks! Yeah uncooled cameras have this side of them... You'll get one at some point!
definitely get the 533mc if you can, 585 is very small and the price difference isn't very big
A 585 is definitely my next camera it's just a matter of which one & when to buy it, great review as always Cuiv clear skies
Clear skies!
Because of your review I have order this camera from HPS !
Thank you for your support!!
Great review, thanks Cuiv. Lots of really useful information.
This would be a good sensor for the next Seestar version.
That's very true!
Hi Cuiv, very good video! I'm on a budget with astrophotography, so this camera is going to be the one for me! Thanks for this great video!👍🏻👌🏻😀
This will be a great addition to the quiver!
I hope we see more cooled cams with smaller pixels, for us wide field fans!
Fingers crossed!
Just bought one this week Cuiv. Now I'm just waiting for the clouds to clear to try it out. In the UK they sell for £619 which I think makes it the cheapest cooled camera available here. The main reason I bought it was to replace my aging cropped sensor DSLR on my grab and go rigs. It will be used with my CAT51 and 81GT refractors with an ASIAir mini for control. I will also give it a try with my SY 135 f2 as well. How easy was it to connect to Sharp Cap? Would I need to download any drivers etc?
One thing I didn't like was the ZWO filter draw I bought with it, the magnets are rubbish and the locking screw will be a nightmare to adjust with cold hands in the dark. The Altair Astro model is much more secure. I have no complaints about other ZWO gear I use though.
Best regards.
Congrats on getting yours! Enjoy the power of cooled astrophotography! Sharpcap just worked! And yeah agreed on the ZWO filter drawer, it's so easy for the drawer to just fall off...
That's great NEWS (I bought the Asi1585mc to use primarily with my C6), it's good they decided to make the cooler version.
As always, thank you for good info!
Thanks!
How well does the 585 perform with your C6? I have one as well and I'm considering the 585 pro.
@AstrophotographyUnderMSSkies I spent a fair amount of time on astronomy tools site testing the Field of View tool between all my scopes combination with that astro camera, mostly with the Bin setting at 1x1. I also compared the C6's native focal length (1500mm) to the use of the f6.3 reducer. I really liked the magnification of that sensor size and the C6.
Unfortunately, as I was starting to take it into the field, I became ill and I'm just now ready to get back to it. It's almost been a year and I'm anxious to get back.
Sorry I couldn't give a better answer, but I'm most encourage with the that combo. Using Astronomy Tools > Frield of View is a great way to plan sessions.
You Sir, are 1 of the very few who create HONEST evaluations of products. I thank you for being honest, maintaining your integrity and not succumbing to pressure from suppliers to make evaluations which are GARBAGE. Excellent review. I encourage others to stop watching channels that review products, but they KI@@###ISS the behind of suppliers - Mr. Cuiv is honest. Again, thank you, Sir.
I really, really do my best!!
Great images. Excellent value for money. Thos small pixels are a winner with galaxies.
Yes indeed! Thanks!
It's interesting that ZWO (and Player One on their Uranus-C) doesn't include the HDR mode that touptek does, but considering that the touptek was having banding isues on that mode maybe ZWO considered it wasn't worth it to implement it.
I have received a better firmware from Touptek, but for some reason the evolution and studies was delaying on this camera mode. I was in contact with a developer.
But dew heater is a must for this type of sensor, so Touptek is better.
@@ciskje71 Hi, I recently bought the touptek didnt use yet, should I upgrade the firmware is it worth to effort ? Or should I use it without HDR
Yep the HDR mode ended up having issues for quite a while with banding, I haven't tested recently, need to check it out
@@CuivTheLazyGeekyou should give me a camera lol
Finally ZWO released their own IMX585 camera! It's looking pretty good too! Thanks for the review Cuiv!
Thanks Dave, as always!
Wow! I must have ESP! For the second time I made a purchase and right afterward I find a video from you that makes me feel like I made a good decision. Yesterday I purchased the Player One Uranus-C PRO. I was thinking that wouldn't it be cool if Cuiv made a shootout video comparing the same cameras from ZWO, Touptek, and Player One to see how or if the small differences in the specifications show up in the results or usage.
Thy wish hath been granted! :D
Nice! I recently started using an Svbony sv705c which is an uncooled camera with the same sensor. I got it on a good sale and have gotten much better results from it than I did from my DLSR and I am excited to see more cooled cameras with that sensor. I may end up getting either the Player One version or the ZWO version when I have the extra cash, but I have other things with my setup that I need to replace/buy first.
The SV705C should be a fun camera for now :-) Have fun with it until you get a cooled version!
May be a Geek, but NOT a Lazy Geek... REALLY enjoyed the videos...
I have the original 585 and I use a cellphone cooler and I get -10 Celsius then ambient temperature 🖖🏼
Very nice!
hola Cuiv muchas gracias por tus videos son muy divulgativos me gustaria saber que tal ira la 585 con un sky watcher 72 ed
I own an SvBony 405cc (asi 294) camera and an SvBony 705c (asi 585). They both work quite nicely, but the asi 585 requires less calibration.
Nice review!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cuiv, the ToupTek has an Argon-filled camera chamber where the ZWO doesn't. That "Do Not Remove" label is there for a reason and this might help explain why the ToupTek cools faster. Love the videos... ;-)
That's a very good point, I had forgotten abou that!
Thanks Cuiv!
Can you cover the difference between the AR and IR cut filter versions? I'm interested in purchasing but honestly I'm not sure the tradeoffs/use cases for each.
AR doesn't have any filter, but if you don't add some, you get blurry image from infrared emission (infrared have a different focal point).
IR have already a filter for infrared, that you can't remove.
I would always recommend the AR version - you do need to always be using a filter then (like a UV/IR cut filter when shooting broadband), while at the same time having the IR range available should you wish to use it (such as with the IDAS GNB filter). Also you're then avoid any risk of the camera cut filter performing no up to spec and cutting some of the signal you want :D
@@CuivTheLazyGeek great thank you for the explanation! That makes sense I just wasn't sure if there was something I was missing.
Nice video. Thanks for the analysis Cuiv.
Actually, I am more bothered by the 12 bit ADC than by the small size of the sensor. It’s curious that they kept this older tech for this new camera. So I think I will keep my 533MC Pro for my Celestron 8 inch edge. IMHO, the increased resolution offered by the slightly smaller pixels doesn’t compensate for the 4x worst ADC (12 bits vs 14 bits).
It's not ZWO's fault but Sony's :D To be honest I see 12 bit ADC as a non-issue, as long as you stay within the dynamic range of the sensor for your subframes (and then the DR gets recovered by stacking). ADC combined with gain gives you the well depth, add the read noise in the mix and you get the dynamic range. So the curves completely include the ADC in the first place - as such ADC is a means to an end, and not a spec I look at. The only issue with ADC that is not included in he curves would be quantization error and even that gets recovered with stacking! You can see my full reasoning here: th-cam.com/video/GKXkM_FbFgg/w-d-xo.html
You should do planetary.
Would love to see a planet with the same camera 🔭✔️👍
current i have canon 600d to take photos.
I'm undecided between the asi 585mc pro and the qhy minicam8 mono combo....
Great camera.....How many pictures did you take and how many did you use?
Hi cuiv, great video love your enthusiasm for astrophotography. I am awaiting the altair version of this camera, same sensor so im wondering if it would be the same unity gain you recommend and the same offset.?
I actually took my touptek imx 585 apart to see if there was any way of shortening (there wasn't) the backfocus length, and the camera is packed with small bags with ailica gel.. I don't know if any other manufactures does the same, but this came to surprise to me and looks kinda strange. But it makes sense to use that.
Oh it's supposed to have an argon purged chamber for the sensor, I hope you didn't open that one!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Humm not 100% sure but sensor looked as was inside another smaller compartment and that I didn't open. But it is still working fine. Anyway I'm just going to use it with a 24/7 Indi allsky setup. Software and settings is already setup, just waiting for some different fisheye lenses and some pvc pipes and domes 🙂 Weather in Denmark is hopeless. I think we had 10 nights of clear sky since November🙄
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Ahh well you live and learn 🙂I just read some threads about on CN forum and I guess I will find out sooner than later if it had any effect. It does seam that the chamber with argon was opened. Anyway it's fixable when and if it will be a problem. And if I understand correctly another method is to use an desiccant tube in the side where the screw is. It was used like that in the past. I see TS optics sells them. I honestly don't think it will make much difference but time will tell 🙂
Great video! I noticed your appreciation for the small pixels of the 585. I'm curious to hear your opinion or review about another intriguing ZWO camera, the 715, which features ultra-tiny 1.5-micron pixels. Do you think this would be an advantage or a disadvantage, considering that smaller pixel size tends to produce a weaker signal?
Thanks!
I have a review of the QHY715C, which should be very similar! th-cam.com/video/lFNyhrGYlVw/w-d-xo.html
Je viens d'écouter ton vidéo avec la QHY715C, très intéressant . Merci beaucoup Cuiv !
Bonjour Cuiv, En premier lieu, merci pour tes videos que je suis depuis longtemps et qui sont plus "scientifiques" que la plupart des autres.
Au vu de cette video, j'ai deux petites questions:
1.- Je ne m'intéresse qu'au ciel profond et surtouts aux nébuleuses. Mon équipement est très basique: un DSLR (Canon 80d defiltré + filtre clipon dual band)) et un objo Canon 300mm f4 (d'occase, vieux et plein de coups, mais optiquement excellent) + 1 asiair plus et une lunette de guidage. J'obtiens des images assez correctes, mais j'aimerais les améliorer. Si je remplace le DSLR par une caméra astro refroidie, cela ferait-il une différence vraiment significative sur la qualité d' images? 2. pour mon usage, j'ai compris que tu conseilles la 533 plutôt que la 585, nettement moins chère. Là aussi, le gain en IQ serait-il vraiment sighnificatif?
Merci
Francis (Belgique)
Je dirais que tu aurais un gain significatif en IQ (et en comfort - besoin que de flats et bias pour calibration) en passant de la DSLR à la 585. Le gain en allant de la 585 à la 533 est bien moindre!
Réponse bien claire, merci. Ce sera donc là 585, surtout qu'elle est a 600€ chez 1 un marchand sérieux, soit 500€ de moins qu'une 533. Je me réjouis de pouvoir sortir en été sans me soucier du bruit du a la température!
I want the same, but mono.
I thought the same. That would be a great option for those who can't afford more expensive ones but want to buy their first mono to experiment and learn new techniques in AP.
Yeah... Sony released the mono version of the sensor last October so there is hope!
Good review, thank you.
Have you got a view or any comments regarding the comparison of the 585 cooled v uncooled? This would be my first Astro cam for a small refractor.
Would you say this camera would be ok with the Celestron c6 and reducer. Trying to decide between this and the 533
I would probably go for the 533 if budget allows since you likely don't need the small pixels unless you want to do lucky imaging. Also check the imaging circle of your reducer
Thank you replying, also going to get Hyperstar after watching your videos. Was planning on the 533, but then the 585 came out and thought it may be ok ,also cheaper.
Cuiv, Always enjoy your videos and your obvious excitement for this hobby! How do you get such detail with only 30-second exposures from a large city? I'm in a Bortle 4-5, also using a Newt, and my images at 120" or even 180" of these galaxies are never that sharp. Thanks!
I bean looking at the Player one versiom of this for some time. PS Player one has a bilt in tilt plate.
Yeah it looks nice for sure! For ZWO you do need to buy their title plate (that replaces the 11mm adapter that comes with the camera) so it's an additional expense
The only telescope I own is a Dwarf 2. That got freshly dropped on concrete....hard. It still works! But I did a thing.... Cried twice.... I just bought this camera with a redcat 51 v3. Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi , ASI air and EAF next week. I'm really excited.
Great value
I have the Poseidon-C pro... imx571 sensor. I was going to try it on planetary, but this one seems better suited for that.... It's pretty cheap also, maybe a future purchase? 🤔
Great video, thanks. I'm shopping for a camera for my EdgeHD9.25" for DSO, what would be your recommendation, in 2024, for an astrophotography with $3k budget?
That's a beast of a scope, and it should support an APS-C size sensor - in that case it's a no brainer to go for the IMX571 sensor IMO. And if you want to not have to use an OAG, the ZWO Duo version of it might be your best bet (bit.ly/3M8IkPS) . It even has a monochrome version now! (bit.ly/3vvj6GY)
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Much appreciated…
Cuiv. As always a very informative and helpful video congrats! I also have the same camera, EAF, 120mm guide Cam and the ASIAIR. My scope is an Omegon 104 Ed 650 mm focal length with a .8x focal reducer before the 55mm back focus. My problem is I cannot get any stars to focus manually or af with EAF so polar aligning and plate solving is out of the question. I have made sure the focal length is 520mm in the software. Do you have any suggestions or help please?
I'm not familiar with that scope, but are you 100% sure you have the 55mm back focus (including the 11+6.5mm taken by the camera)? If you can't reach focus (have you tried on distant terrestrial targets?), then I suspect the reducer or the back focus for it... Could be something to ask Omegon about as well!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek 100% sure on the current back focus, I am going to ask Omegon as you suggest, because I tried focusing on a castle in St.Aubin’s Bay which is about 2km out but no luck there either.
Update from Omegon:- They are suggesting a 50mm extension tube before the focal reducer should bring me into focus.. Unfortunately the weather has gone bad this weekend so not sure when I will get to test their theory out. I remain somewhat sceptical that this is all it is, but I will hope for the best result. :)
Is it possible for you to do a review on the PlayerOne Pisiodon Manochrom camera?
Many thanks for pointing out that the drivers for my Gemini were on your chanel, I now have that working thanks to you. I am also about to buy this camera, or the 533. My telescope is a 200mm with a 1000mm Fl, which camera would you suggest? I won't hold you to your answer but as a beginner I really would apreciate any advice you can give me. Also just joined your patrion.
The 533 should be better at your focal length!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Many thanks Cuiv
Hello! I really like the way you explain things...I would really appreciate if you could recommend a astro camera that I could use with my 2 telescopes ( 14" Dobsonian F/4.6, FL 1650mm without tracking( manual) and 12" LX200 SCT F/10, FL 3048mm with tracking) I know they both have big and huge focal length ... I'm looking for something that will be capture super sharp pictures of the moon , planets...and some small DSO ( ring, Dumbbell , some globular star cluster, small galaxies, etc).
Thank you!
With such long focal length, you will be limited by seeing, although lucky imaging will help with that. If aiming for planets I think this sensor is good, but planetary and lunar is not my area of expertise...
Hello from France ! Thanks for this video Cuiv ! I used the uncooled version for about a year now. I was really happy with it. I got the cooled one 2 weeks ago and tested it on Horsehead nebula. I use it coupled with 61EDPHII and FMA180. It's indeed a great bargain with short focal lenght. I used the uncooled at gain 252 and 180s subs and tried the new one at lower gain 80 and 300s exposure on Barnard 33. I try to improve sharpness on this target... I was wondering if it was a matter of guiding or focusing. Maybe should I get zwo EF ? Even if my subs look pretty well, I think there is still some noise on my final image. Should I take more darks ? I think that ASIAIR plus propose a maximum of 20 darks to get a "masterdark". Is it better to take more darks ? How many should I get ? The great news is that I'll now be able to create a dark library thanks to the cooling system. PS: It looks terrific coupled with zwo OAG !
Hi Cuiv! What offset do you use on the 585mc pro?
If you want to go cheap then look at the ASI715 with my after market cooler. I guess I sent you a mail just too late. A missed opportunity to do a nice comparison.
Just saw it now - not a missed opportunity, I wouldn't have done such a comparison as part of a review video. It would need its own video, but I can foresee already a lot of work involved so not sure I'd be able to. Replied to your email!
The true selling point for me (or lack...) is : did ZWO altered the antireflection coating of the 585 in order to do Venus Nightside imaging...
Player One 585 can do it. Don't know for the cooled version btw...
Hi Cuiv , have you tried this camera with the C6 hyperstar?
I'm a little curious on this since i'm about to order a hyperstar for my self.
The only reason I can see your Touptek cools so rapidly, If you have the cooling time in NINA set to zero. If you set a time it will then progressively cool the camera as to be expected.
Same settings for both cameras :) I'm perfectly fine with fast cool down on Touptek since it has its powerful dew heater and the sensor chamber is argon purged. It's just the algos within the camera drivers controlling the rate of cooling!
Hey Cuiv... Camera question, please: I bought a ZWO 183MC a few years ago for my Evolution 6" SCT due to the high-resolution 20MB sensor and its size would easily clear the mount base. My reasoning as a life-long pro photographer was the more pixels the better. It turns out that I should have gone for the cooled version for DSO.
SO... Now in 2024, what's my best choice for an upgraded ZWO color camera that I could use with my 60mm f/5, 80mm f/6, and 6" SCT? My targets would be the usual easy stuff.
Meanwhile, I guess my 183 would be fine for the moon, bright planets, and M42.
Thanks for your thoughts, and good luck to us all here in Texas for clear skies during the eclipse.
More pixels not necessarily better, it's really about the pixel size/pitch (and then for a fixed pixel size, more pixels then just means larger sensor :) ). If you're looking for the usual easy stuff, I'd recommend the ASI2600MC Pro (bit.ly/3FMNLkS) or the Pro Duo if you want to get rid of the need for a guide scope (bit.ly/3M8IkPS). And if that's above your budget, then the 533MC Pro is my next recommendation! ( bit.ly/3Iwo6y8). I hope this helps! And yes, fingers crossed for the eclipse!
Thanks Cuiv....I plan on shooting video of the eclipse with my SeeStar. I'll have to practice fist with the filter. Not sure what I'll get during darkness.
Love your stuff, watch it all, though much is a bit over my head. I'm trying to learn Siril and it's plugins. It's a lot like Photoshop, only not as refined. But hey, it's free!
Take care...would be great if you did some kind of guest lecture while in the Texas area. Just say'n....
If I say I want to choose between the 533MC pro and the 585MC pro, but my budget allows me only the latter one....Would it be a great mistake to buy the 585MCpro?....
Any sign of vibration from the fan in the zwo?
I have the 183mc pro & the ampglow drives me nuts. Will probably go for the 585.
Depends on your gear. 533mc might be better
@@ballashoes svbony 503 70mm & sw mn190 although I'm saving on a decent focuser the mn190 as the stock is rubbish so it's not being used for astro 😕
@@tomcorniche3844 585 should work well for you than if you're chasing planets
i just got the zwo asi678mc and 585mc the 585 is great for galaxies and planetary neb while the 678 is my new goto for solar lunar and planets and the 294mc is my DSO camera. each camera has a purpose and does great
Sounds like a winning pair of cameras, each for its uses :)
I couldn’t find the link to the light pollution video that you mentioned. Did I miss it?
It's added now! It was already in the video itself but now in description as well
Does it have or need a dew heater?
Do we need a uv/ir cut filter? I'm in bortal 5-6 and I'm confused with the uv/iv filter ....what exactly is the reason for the filter vs naked sensor. Thank you for this video
Yes you need the filter - it will avoid the stars getting a bit blown out
Thank you!@@CuivTheLazyGeek
Cuiv, how would this go on the ZenithStar 61 please?
Probably quite well, I have some examples of a small refractor FOV in the video
Hey Cuiv, thanks for the amazing video. Can you do a side-to-side image comparison between asi533mc pro and asi585mc pro? Im debating which one to buy, and i would appreciate if you could do the comparison. Thanks in advance!
I no longer own the 533MC Pro! But I've compared the small pixels of the 585 to the larger pixels of the 571 (effectively the same as the 533, but larger) in my initial reviews of the Touptek 585
No longer as I don't own the 533MC Pro anymore
@@CuivTheLazyGeekthank you. Will have a look at the Touptek review then. Cheers from Cyprus! 🇨🇾
Hopefully they will introduce a mono version.
Cuive, I have a question.
I have read through the specs and they have a gap in information compared to other cameras. They say the FPS is up to 46.9 FPS. So my question is. Is the FPS listed at full sensor? If not what is the capture rate at full frame?
Yup, that's full 4K resolution (I have the original asi585mc)
edit: I think that's at RAW8 transfer mode, not the full 12 bit dr. I have 12 bit set and an older USB 3 port and get nearly 30 fps 😢
@@thewheelieguy Nice, at 2.9um and that frame rate in a mono version it would be a solar beast
How does it do with humidity ?
Hey Mr Cuivness, after all this time do you still stand behind the 101 gain for the 533 mc pro?
I hesitated to say I would set the gain to 253 just to be sure and thus start another trend in the community but held myself back :D 100 or 101, doesn't make a difference, 100 is fine :D
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Cuiv has his own army of gain101s, if you look around on astrobin and cloudy nights forum! 😂
On the other hand, believe it or not, when I did the Sharpcap analysis on my own 533 and also did a recommended exposure time, it recommended me to use gain 103 as unitiy gain! 😲
To compensate for smaller pixel size, there by smaller field of view, can focal reducer is advisable for large focal length telescopes like ritchey chretein? Pls do guide.
New to Astro from photographic background i think what u want to use is so under covered for me dwarf 2 for wide and a cassa for planets .Is it me or has wide really dominated and the neglected planetary will say planets ...hard .Also fitting new additions into the image train is rocket science .Team planet and wide aka nebs galaxyfor now
Okay, I’m a newbie to this astrophotography and I bought all the Zwo echo system but I’m having trouble seeing anything through that same camera . Just don’t see anything at all. If you could help would be great. It seems like it needs some kind of focus.
Hi, i’m new to astrophotography. Is this a good camera for RASA 8?
Now that ZWO has given a favor for the budget guys (585) and for the rich guys (2600), how about us, middle of the road guys? I've been waiting for a 4/3rd sensor for years! ZWO should release a new one to replace the aging 294!
Honestly for your needs, the 533 is the best fit... Would be nice to have a 4/3 sensor though... the 294 is a bit too temperamental for my taste
Have a question with this camera? I do not run a field flattener with my 90mm telescope because of the price. Do you need to have 55mm back focus because the instructions do not say you have to or not. Pretty confused with this since I’m new to astrophotography. A lot to learn.
Is it an idea to buy this camera for smaller galaxies instead of buying for example a C8 edge hd?
With my current askar 80phq and 2600mc the FOV is way too large for that.
Smaller pixels do get you an extra oomph in resolution, provided it is within the Dawes limit of your scope (I have an entire video on the topic), so it's a good first step! In the end that's what I'm doing with my Newt :D
What about HDR mode (that was present but have some problem on Touptek version)?
Where did you hear about the HDR banding issue?
I haven't tested it recently on the Touptek - yeah it had a long period where it had banding issues, I think Touptek released a new firmware to fix it but I haven't tested...
what process do you use to get the star difraction spikes? I see it alot in photos but don't know how it is done.
It's just the fact I'm using a Newtonian telescope - there's a spider holding the secondary mirror creating the star spike diffraction artifacts
Whoo Hoo!!
Con che focale hai preso m81?
517mm
@CuivTheLazyGeek Which to buy? 585MC Pro or 294MC Pro? I have an Evolux 62ED. Live in Bortle 4 (Eastern Netherlands)
That's the camera I'm going to get.
It's a great little camera!
damn, 600$ is very fair price
When you are buying these cameras in Europe, the ZWO version is about 60USD more expensive than the Touptek version, and it is close to 800USD. But still i just ordered the ZWO version last night, i am tired of waiting the Touptek Astrostation to be released internationally. At leas i know ASIAir works fine.
You say its a tiny sensor, but it is almost the same sensor size as the 533. If it wasn't square, it would be practically the same size.
In sensor area terms, the 533 is 1.8 times larger though
Hi Cuiv, i have built a setup consisting of 135mm, 200mm, 300mm camera lens and also a C6 with reducer. I live in a bortle 4 zone. I was just about to order the 533MC Pro but this has now been released and now i'm not sure which of these camera's do order. Any advice? Thanks.
Since you're using DSLR lenses what would this ZWO ASI585MC Pro convert my 150-600mm lens to for focal length?
Hello @CuivTheLazyGeek just one question. I have the 2600mc pro and the Askar 103 Apo, have been looking at the 585mc pro for planetary Nebulae , but have been advised that the 2600 cropped is just as good. But from what I understand having more pixels on the target will give better images rather than cropping. Your opinion please. One really confused geek.
I use a Redcat 51, which one do you recommend, this or the 533mc pro? I just don’t know if I can get past the square images.
I am surprised you did not comment on the HDR mode and the lack of it on the ZWO model. Are you still using it with the touptek camera?
Also with Touptek cameras you are forced to use a pc instead of the convenient ASIAIR Plus/mini wireless.
Yep, or another way to put it: you can only use the ASIAIR if you use only ZWO cameras :) I personally find using a PC more convenient (more features I need, auto sync of all images to my processing PC, just click play on my saved sequences to run a night), but to each their own!
Is this a color or monochrome camera?
Sorry I wasn't clear about it - it's color
12 bit camera, but very sensitive to near infrared.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So you're a Pepsi girl