Is this a waste of time???? sharpening Multi-tool blades
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- Here is a link to the sharpener (Paid link)
amzn.to/3JHwf3m
Like the Video? Maybe buy me a coffee!!
click the link here geni.us/vn0mp
For my 76mm and 102mm hinge jigs click here geni.us/fvGT
My Amazon store for all kinds of goodies (PAID LINK)
CLICK HERE geni.us/LgI3n6
Music by www.bensound.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![บุษบา - มอส รัศมี [COVER VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_n0yENSl8d8/mqdefault.jpg)
Life long joiner here, 50yrs, a multi tool operates like no other tool, oscillation, used in the surgical trade for years and only became available to us plebs a few decades ago, well done Robin again.
I made one of these with a pack of mini grinder blades and a m10 nut & bolt & washers. They cut plaster board brilliantly once sharp.
I sharpen mine with a small, old school saw file. Got to sharpen while the teeth are still defined though otherwise it takes too long. A quick tickle up with a saw file makes a blade last 3-4 times longer though. Files are cheap too.
Yes. I had my 50-year old saw setting and sharpening kit until quite recently when I gave it away to someone who is into fine detailed small item woodwork. It extended the life of some of the coarser wood cutting blades
Fully agree, been do that for years now.
@@multirole240 As long as the cutter isn’t too badly blunt it doesn’t take any longer than it seems to with this device. I use the vice which makes it super easy.👍
Where are you getting cheap files from? I need some 4" double extra slim files for a saw I want to sharpen here.
Brilliant for rough work and plasterboard,wear it down and re sharpen and save your good blades for finish work
I have a pile of these blades that I have yet to bin bc I held out hope that a contraption like this might well be the ticket. Sadly, it seems there is no substitute for new blade. Thanks for doing the legwork Robin. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
It is for wood blades
You will find the teeth are hardened, in the heat treatment process. The rest of the blade is toughened only. As you grind the teeth down you remove the hardened steel and get into the softer region
I mig weld a hack saw blade to the end of old multi tool blades, they can cut through nails and screws too.
Clever.
got one of these work great for roughing cuts... but would always use NEW for door/frame work.
Great vid. Helped me decide that I will defo just keep buying the cheap jobbies individually packaged from Amazon! Life might just be that little bit too short for me on that one…
Fantastic, what with fathers day being just around the corner, I will be able to put it with the 'Gator' one size fits all socket, the magnetic tool holder wrist band, the combined tape measure pen and the all in one firemans axe and fondue set. Heaven help that any significant off spring/partners get to see this video, still there's a few weeks before 'D' day, I wonder what other gems Mr Clevett might like to promote for our tool time treats!
This comment had me in stitches 😂🤣. Fair play it works on the blades for timber but that close up shot of them teeth was absolutely outrageous 🤣
15:20
Spot weld a small bit of hacksaw blade onto the cutter?
👍 nice tool better than nothing, earplugs is a must for this tool
Decent review Robin. Not sure I’d spend £70 on this myself especially with some of the smart multipack prices but like you mentioned; now you own it, it could get you out of jail one day.
Yes Sam thats how I am looking at it!!
Just need a saw file, a triangular file. 1- 3 rubs per tooth. that tool is just cutting square battlements. But it clearly works on the blade set that suits that tool. mainly wood blades. Do a video using a saw file on the wood and metal blades as a comparison. I wonder what the machine cutter looks like that makes these blades in the factory?
Have you seen the tigers teeth blade sharpener? Nifty piece of kit, worth a look. Great vids Robin.
Yes the tigers teeth sharpener, although more expensive is great for sharpening other things too like drills, and circular saw blades etc on the job site. Well worth the money.
First time I see Rob not knowing what will happen🤣
This has made me chuck my blunts on the scrap metal pile, I’ll just work for another hr and buy a load of new ones!
New for finer finish in wood, old for rough finish, older for plasterboard or cement block, toothless for getting between wood glued together and other prising apart jobs, flat toothless for packing and wide washers (drill relevant sized holes through them
For broken multitool blades you can get a good raw cut using a grinder with a metal cutting blade. You could get a finer cut too if you took your time and a little more care.
Interesting video, might be handy if you were on your last blade and wanted to get to the end of the day, not sure if I’d use it routinely!
I’ve tried a few different starlock blades (didn’t know these were more expensive when I bought the tool!) and found Hilti blades to be the best, last much longer than Bosch or Milwaukee.
Best advice for blade longevity though is don’t push them too hard, run the tool on a slow setting so it can clear the sawdust and try to always use the right blade. Proper hardwood blades work far better in hardwood than a regular multi material.
I must say I recently bought a ‘Bosch expert carbide blade’ for metal and was seriously impressed. I cut - accidentally - a piece of timber with said blade and it wasn’t great thus if it’s metal embedded in timber best to use a wood/metal blade, but if you’re knowingly cutting metal only I cannot recommend it highly enough. Reasonably priced at £15. Will be purchasing a fein one when it’s time to replace, see if it’s any better or longer lasting. So far with the Bosch I’ve cut about 6 Reisser screws and a few nails and still as good as new.
Yep Graham buy a decent blade like that and you will get decent performance, I also find when I am using a more premium blade I tend to be more careful!!! are these the ones you use? amzn.to/3UJs1yi
Declan Doolan happy to see robin crevitt about construction 🚧 industry
Just ordered a small triangular diamond file like jewellers use. Hopefully will be able to restore the teeth on my assortment of old metal blades.Will be interesting to see how that goes. I think the sharpener you used would be ok for wood and maybe brass or aluminium. Cheers Robin
Yep I reckon the file is the way to go for the metal blades!! let me know how you get on
Saw files really don't last very long apparently but worth a bash!
Thank you Robin.
Ive used a small triangle file every so often slow but it works
Great vid yet again rob! Interesting! You got me thinking, buy or not ! 😂 I’ll wait until you put yours in production!! RC MULTI TOOL BLADES ASSORTED PACK OF 5 😂 Well done mate .
Interesting subject robinthanks for showing us honestly what it does.
Glad you enjoyed it
great video!
Dremel discs with washers between does the same thing for a tenner or even your old angle grinder discs
I just use a grinder with a 1mm cutting disc fitted in it,seen plenty others on site use this method also !
Great tests and detail
Thank you Nicolas
probably end up being a worthwhile addition in the end then. ive binned loads of these blades once theyve touched plasterboard theyre absolutely toast
may even be something where the companies who sharpen circ saw blades could offer a better service.
i get my festool blades sharpened quite regularly. normally 5 or 6 blades freshened up for the cost of 1 new blade.
The blades for multi-tools are the ink cartridges of the printer world. There is no alternative to them so they are way over-priced. I've been using small files to sharpen them, does the job. Thanks for sharing.
Tell nick bundy he'd love this tool.
A good needle file set is what I use
Great tip!
@@ukconstruction Well... it produces slightly better tips to extend the blade life a few times!
@@ukconstructionDiamond files work pretty well. A bit fiddly but about as quick as Robin's demo but makes better teeth and preserves the spacing.
Yep same here
A 4" grinder with either a diamond disc or thin metal cutting carbide disc does the job, only for cutting wood or plastic
I'd be interested in whether tungsten carbide multitool blades are worth the extra expense. Project Farm did some testing. I think you need to price in blade cost for into your work if you anticipate a lot of use. Is there a professional resharpening service that will both do curved blade and re heat treat them?
diamond wheel on a dremel...takes a few minutes but works great
Good to know!
Honestly you can just run a metal grinder disc into them and freestyle some ragded teeth and theyll cut ok.
Also surely you need to clamp the blade in a vice and hold it at more of a 90degree to the sharpening tool.
That is true I have done that myself but... if I did that on TH-cam I would be crucified by comments about danger!!
hi....can you point me in the right direction to buy the hinge jig you do in metal....got the wood one it great, but love the aluminium one
Those tool are also heat treated by using it like that you remove the treating making it soft and softer for next cut if your going to do that run it for a few seconds then put in water to ,keep cool
Man’s a artist must be great to create things
I think a file with a triangular profile might me almost and quick and do a better job.
Yes but you need to use a diamond file on hardened teeth
Isn't it only the tip of the blade that they harden to save costs, so little point in re-cutting as you will end up in softer metal?
Fairly sure the good blades are formed , tempered ,then ground , this device will use abrasion to form through the hardened steel alloy , this will leave the raw un tempered steel alloy , can’t see them lasting long , but as ever enjoyed the presentation .
Love my HILTI too.
I have a tiny 12v Milwaukee trim wheel ( Dewalt just copied it ) they go to 20,00 rpm & use 76 x 1.0 mm wheels easy job to mount a few of these on a mandrel and cut the finer teeth , again I think the loss of the tempering would effect the longevity .
Don’t know why but this video has me in stitches 6:53
I destroyed one of my cutters removing a sill on my garage I was replacing, ended up using a hacksaw to get through the nails😂😂 Maybe OK for a tradesman but for the average DIYourselfer I wouldn't bother unless you use them constantly, good demo.
I have a set of small files to sharpen mine takes 5 minutes.
Could you please let me know what brand the safety glasses you use are, couldn't see them in your Amazon store 😀
tried tungsten carbide grit or teeth blades?
Looks like a Temu special that one
Ebay has 66mm wide sharpeners for wider blades. They cost about 50 quid. If you can double the life of blades for wood and plastic, it could pay for itself pretty fast. Maybe small teeth would be a challenge.
All the metal blades, maybe you can sharpen them up to the rough blade, and then save them for rough wood only, and In future just buy new metal blades, knowing they will eventually become rough wood blades later on maybe. At least they still have a purpose rather than just throwing them.
got the cheap blades when i bought my multi tool. absolute junk, then tried an expensive diablo blade and it was a new tool. sadly they cost a fortune. might try some filing to get some life out of the blades. cheers rob
A stamp guillotine to bite a new end would work better but I guess it would have to be fairly heavy duty. Personally I just but the bulk cheapo Chinese ones. They don’t last as long but they’re good new and only a quid each and so it makes more sense.
Yep I mentioned the fact you can get cheap blades in the video
Keep the multitool blade as close to 90 degrees to the sharpener.
Use a file like I do for my ordinary saws
Best tip with multi tools is to put the blade in at 90deg to the body and not end on. I was surprised at the improvement in usability and cutting performance this way.
As you say, just a threaded rod with some washers and cutting disks. If you got some thinner washers and disks, you could set your own pitch. On a rainy day, stick it the pillar drill in the workshop, spend the morning rescuing blades!
I thought that too!!
This device doesn't seem well thought through at all given its limited width. @thetallcarpenter had a good tip for cutting down old handsaw blades and welding the pieces onto the bases of old multi tool blades. Also using a fine angle grinder disc to make new rough teeth works well enough. Both decent options for rough-medium finish work in wood or plasterboard.
Robin, make a jig !
From what I can see the blades are induction hardened like a jet cut saw. Once you've ground away the hardened zone the blade is finished. Jet cut saws are virtually throw away items and often cost less then a single multi tool blade. They can never be set and sharpened like the traditional saws, so what can you expect from multitool blades.
There are two systems out that would work on metal-blades as they grind real teeth. Tiger teeth and schärfkopf. But they are getting really expensive...
I'm not convinced at all by it. I must admit I never run my multi tool at full speed. So if I need to go through a nail I slow the spoed down to 1 or 2 then for timber I mostly cut at 3 or 4 and it's very rare I go to full speed I find the cutters last a lot longer as I haven't over heated them .
Good practice that is bro, nice one
If ya gonna try sharpen them you probably gone be doing it for one job your currently doing an can’t be bothered getting a new one so maybe just get a little diamond file preferably the triangular one should sort it much better and probably a few quid for the file
NOOICE!
Try 1 mm slitting discs
Think I'll stick buying new blades and writing of the expense
You ca de temper the blades enough to file the teeth. Works great but can't cut metal
Isn’t it pitch, not set? I thought set was kicking the teeth off up or down to provide clearance or increase the kerf on a cut?
Also, Robin is SUCH a resource on YT. The years of proper experience shared is outstanding, also love Hilti tools, just swapping a lot of my 22V to the Nuron platform, the SID-6-22 is a monster, amazing kit, unparalleled support.
Actually heat is a bonus on light tool steel, burn the hell out of it, get it blue and quench it in oil, better than the induction hardening they do on most mud range oscillating blades. The pitch being wider is probably their tactic to make a blade “feel” sharper
Nice one Stephen!! The 22v Nuron is amazing!!!!! thank you for your comment mate
Can't wait til Temu produce them for £5
A three square file works for me
I just buy the cheap ones off eBay 100 blades for £30 a couple of cuts throw it over my shoulder not bothered 30p a blade!
Sharpening saw blades is a bit of a chore.
Robin do you have a workshop you could show us around?
HI Tom, I work closely with a couple of workshops and I am planning some footage so watch this space
@@ukconstruction I think he means you personally Robin 🤣
I only work on site so I set up my mobile workshop
Dodgy camera work??
Mate just get on with it never mind the bollckes to slow
I recycle mine 3 times new one ,then cut new teeth with grinder ,then sharpen flat blade to use as a scraper I’m tight
Well i reckon that it is good practice and better for the environment to resharpen!! so well done
Wouldn't say a waste of time as can get you outta pinch, however the price is could get about 100 blades for the same price. Another thing is I'm not sure your even meant to try and sharpen them
£20 you wouldn’t miss it? I’ll order one.
Sarpener? 😂
"Wood and metal cutting blade with a flat spot where it hit a bit of metal" ?!?!?!?!?
Yep!! generally a really hard nail or screw!!
Life’s too short for this surely? 😂
Well probably!! but I have been asked so many times about these so I gave it a go!!
Get cheap ones and treat them like sandpaper. These name manufacturers are having a laugh with the prices they charge for these.
Wide, rough, toothless...
All sound like my kind of girl!
£70 ? definitely not. £15, give it a try.
This gadget is blindly wild-guessing to tentatively sharpen or ,to be exact, destroy a blade if it is possible.
Rob's right the teeth are poor quality and wont last a days site work. there needs to be a better way.
They are a waste of time when you can get a cheap box of amazon with like a million in.
Spell check your thumbnail before you click “publish”.
If you knock teeth off then you can’t sharpen it. What a fad
like a hand brake on a canoe for me....pointless..literally
That's what the paddle is for?
Save the money and buy cheap blades for ripping out jobs
First
A podcast would of been just as informative. A little longer on the setup of the cameras would of helped. Interesting though.
This channel appears to be dead now
Thats kind
Surprised you fell for that sharpener £5 to make from screwfix rubbish and a wasted few hours, only problem is unless Tormek make something for it they aint gonna work, but blades are so dear, I buy cheapies for cutting out plasterboard etc and a few decent ones for precise work, lets be honest it's more of a wrecking tool in most case so cheap & cheerful