I've been going to dirt races for 40+years and never heard or seen such well explained info. As you know most racers speak somewhat "vaguely" . Great video even for the Joe Schmo fan. 👍👍👍
Thank you JIrry3 for watching, and you are correct. This video is usable info based on my experience and personal opinion on tuning these cars. All facts and info not lacking details or misleading and stuff I personally use for my programs. For the guys and girls up and coming plus the teams on smaller budgets wanting real usable info.
New to dirt late model racing and I’m in almost a 20 year old car and last week was black flagged for spin outs but what you described I was feeling car handles great into corner but when I get on the gas car hangs out I’m bottoming out but im going to try shortening the rods to see if that can help I like the advice and will be watching videos to for handling solutions bc me and my dad are learning and have some help but for the most part are by ourself and I can’t find anywhere else for videos so it’s greatly appreciated definitely subscribing
I just put out my detailed tuning guide it's real usable info and everything you need to get it done during a night at the races. facebook.com/DirtLateModelTechTips/posts/1678573748976084
Thank you this weekend I lost all forward bit just seen not to go I think years ago afco had a shock that went in the 4bar link if I can find it might try that
Hi Dave when you talk about Bar angle are you set angle with car on ground at ride hight or are you looking at Diff at shock stretched out on chassis jack ?
Hey Chris that's a good question. See when a racer get on my program or buys set up guide from me I help establish a good starting baseline, while logging where their at currently. That way always have a "restore" point if ever get off too badly or car changes. I as customers where are your bars? They reply, "oh, there in rocket STD, or it's one above, kryptonite STD." (Both good cars respectably)To me that means nothing, STD?!?! That could be anywhere in bar angle. So I verify correct bar position by angle solely. I do this in 2 positions, static¹ and dynamic ² measuring all my points I confirm they are as I desire for correct handling, having driver know what to expect and movement of torque arm and rear end. I will only accept confirmation of my list of chassis and suspension points only if measured and verified to be correct. Doing this you will be consistently better meaning a higher average finish vs if you didn't. My mindset and the mindset I teach my customers to have is, "never guess, never assume, hands on confirmation only". 🔨⬇️
So changing bar angles on RR does effect ride height if the radius on chassis brackets doesn't follow the bar radius. Regardless, it's minimal if it does. I primarily focus of the LF, RF, and RR ride heights. The LR is the variable in height as that will change with changing extended load.
So what are your thoughts on using the right rear to get through the center and rotate on the throttle? We have been dealing with our GRT with a throttle tight issue that you kinda touched on and we have ended up dropping the right rear upper bar 2 holes on the axle and it is finally turning through the center on the throttle. Our car has a very limited amount of holes on the frame side. We are starting to move towards a heavier RR spring also. It is starting to seem very happy now. Turns in great and stays up on the left rear, turn through the center off the throttle and then rotates on the throttle. We can adjust exit using the limit chain on the right rear as GRT has a set length from the frame to the axle and it says to shorten the chain in 1/4 inch increments to tighten exit.
Have you ever tried the RR shock on the back ? My car is a 08 Mastersbilt and it has a shock frame mount for a behind the axle on the RR ,, it seems the bird cage would rotate and compress the spring and load the RR more ?
Taking "rounds out" is a load adjustment simply put. Can't always depend on using smasher to get to the pound accuracy. By using the "rounds out" method (old school adjustment btw) you adjust load via rounds but should know roughly how much change it has. In heavy conditions "rounds in" is needed to keep RR from over compressing, which increases starting load and ultimately raises ride height and both bar angles slightly.
That is static bar angles at ride height or as would be in scales with driver. 3 for RR lower is still to low I have found. That's more my dynamic angle I try to stay around for semi heavy conditions say 3/8 mile tracks.
@@DaveyAkersMotorsports yes sir if you need more insight my written information is loaded with real usable numbers situations and email straight to you, check out these guides. Adjustment guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/9974U9XA5MTYS Set up guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/4J87KMZC9D5PU Tire guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/W6GF2X6VSBNFN
I am wondering what the effects are if you raise the rr upper bar as to how it will index into the spring. When I raise that bar it seems to make the car tighter and not rotate even though I am adding steer. Do you think the rr spring is already to stiff?
Hi dave, I race in Stockcars in the netherlands. We drive on ovals asphalt and dirt. I maar realative new with setting up my race car. Dan you Maybe want to help me with that? I would really appreciate that.
@@DirtTrackDave All of it. Guess it just moves too fast for Me. From the earliest part of looking in from the right rear I am lost. Like I said, I am not smart enough, even though I would love to gain this knowledge you posted.
I've been going to dirt races for 40+years and never heard or seen such well explained info.
As you know most racers speak somewhat "vaguely" .
Great video even for the Joe Schmo fan. 👍👍👍
Thank you JIrry3 for watching, and you are correct. This video is usable info based on my experience and personal opinion on tuning these cars. All facts and info not lacking details or misleading and stuff I personally use for my programs. For the guys and girls up and coming plus the teams on smaller budgets wanting real usable info.
I like to say thank you so much for the help Friday and Saturday night I ran better those two nights
Awesome man, more where that came from.
Well now I am done for the rest of the year i brunt a piston or something thank you all you did
Mine just picked up a nod rock, so I'm done too... 😮💨
Awesome dude here I don’t drive late models but love watching his content
Yes I did and changed rear gear felt like a lot of wheel spin
Great video looking forward to more videos like this.
Great video! Thank you for sharing such valuable knowledge.
New to dirt late model racing and I’m in almost a 20 year old car and last week was black flagged for spin outs but what you described I was feeling car handles great into corner but when I get on the gas car hangs out I’m bottoming out but im going to try shortening the rods to see if that can help I like the advice and will be watching videos to for handling solutions bc me and my dad are learning and have some help but for the most part are by ourself and I can’t find anywhere else for videos so it’s greatly appreciated definitely subscribing
add 1/4 inch longer to lower right rear if you need more add more. You will have to drive it in deeper. A good thing
Please contact me via e-mail or my page on facebook info is on about tab on my channel page.
@@DirtTrackDave I've sent you a message on FB messenger
Thanks for all your great tips
Thanks for watching, have the vids helped you so far?
I just put out my detailed tuning guide it's real usable info and everything you need to get it done during a night at the races. facebook.com/DirtLateModelTechTips/posts/1678573748976084
Good info, i hope, soon to be newbie dirt late model racer here.
I'm not new but I like knowledge.
Thank you this weekend I lost all forward bit just seen not to go I think years ago afco had a shock that went in the 4bar link if I can find it might try that
So are you lowering load or bar angle on RR?
Good video awesome information
Hi Dave
when you talk about Bar angle are you set angle with car on ground at ride hight or are you looking at Diff at shock stretched out on chassis jack ?
Hey Chris that's a good question. See when a racer get on my program or buys set up guide from me I help establish a good starting baseline, while logging where their at currently. That way always have a "restore" point if ever get off too badly or car changes. I as customers where are your bars? They reply, "oh, there in rocket STD, or it's one above, kryptonite STD." (Both good cars respectably)To me that means nothing, STD?!?! That could be anywhere in bar angle. So I verify correct bar position by angle solely. I do this in 2 positions, static¹ and dynamic ² measuring all my points I confirm they are as I desire for correct handling, having driver know what to expect and movement of torque arm and rear end. I will only accept confirmation of my list of chassis and suspension points only if measured and verified to be correct. Doing this you will be consistently better meaning a higher average finish vs if you didn't. My mindset and the mindset I teach my customers to have is, "never guess, never assume, hands on confirmation only". 🔨⬇️
Very good job enjoyed it dose it change ride height and if you change that do you have to change all 4 corners
So changing bar angles on RR does effect ride height if the radius on chassis brackets doesn't follow the bar radius. Regardless, it's minimal if it does. I primarily focus of the LF, RF, and RR ride heights. The LR is the variable in height as that will change with changing extended load.
Great info! Can you apply these same tips to dirt modified 4-bar rear suspension?
Yes absolutely, same principles apply to dirt modified regardless if it's pull bar or lift bar.
Had car that was laying over when pick throttle up just sent car right an tirer temp where way off left rear was out by 60 degrees to the right
So what are your thoughts on using the right rear to get through the center and rotate on the throttle? We have been dealing with our GRT with a throttle tight issue that you kinda touched on and we have ended up dropping the right rear upper bar 2 holes on the axle and it is finally turning through the center on the throttle. Our car has a very limited amount of holes on the frame side. We are starting to move towards a heavier RR spring also. It is starting to seem very happy now. Turns in great and stays up on the left rear, turn through the center off the throttle and then rotates on the throttle. We can adjust exit using the limit chain on the right rear as GRT has a set length from the frame to the axle and it says to shorten the chain in 1/4 inch increments to tighten exit.
Shoot me an email, info is on my about tab on channel page.
Have you ever tried the RR shock on the back ? My car is a 08 Mastersbilt and it has a shock frame mount for a behind the axle on the RR ,, it seems the bird cage would rotate and compress the spring and load the RR more ?
They use to back in 2000's however if geometry correct it actually cams away from rear mounted RR shock.
What do you mean when you say take “rounds”out of the RR at around the 7:30 min mark?
Taking "rounds out" is a load adjustment simply put. Can't always depend on using smasher to get to the pound accuracy. By using the "rounds out" method (old school adjustment btw) you adjust load via rounds but should know roughly how much change it has. In heavy conditions "rounds in" is needed to keep RR from over compressing, which increases starting load and ultimately raises ride height and both bar angles slightly.
@@DirtTrackDave thank you that makes a lot of sense
When you are talking bar angles at about the 12 minute mark are those degrees at ride height or while racing. The 18-21 upper lower 3-6 degrees
That is static bar angles at ride height or as would be in scales with driver. 3 for RR lower is still to low I have found. That's more my dynamic angle I try to stay around for semi heavy conditions say 3/8 mile tracks.
Thanks for the info man
@@DaveyAkersMotorsports yes sir if you need more insight my written information is loaded with real usable numbers situations and email straight to you, check out these guides.
Adjustment guide www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/9974U9XA5MTYS
Set up guide
www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/4J87KMZC9D5PU
Tire guide
www.paypal.com/instantcommerce/checkout/W6GF2X6VSBNFN
I am wondering what the effects are if you raise the rr upper bar as to how it will index into the spring. When I raise that bar it seems to make the car tighter and not rotate even though I am adding steer. Do you think the rr spring is already to stiff?
When you raise the RR upper it is free on throttle. But can tighten you up slightly off throttle entering.
Don't insult the GOAT!
Great video, but dang to many commercials
Hi dave,
I race in Stockcars in the netherlands. We drive on ovals asphalt and dirt.
I maar realative new with setting up my race car. Dan you Maybe want to help me with that?
I would really appreciate that.
I can sure try. Please send me and email or message me on Facebook on my page Dirt Late Model Tech Tips
At 11:08 the number 3 car. Who is that?
Do you have any experience with the rayburn swing arm suspension
Back in the day, but 4 link is more beneficial vs swing arm.
I'm confused totally. On everything. I'm dumb. I don't understand at all.
What are you having trouble understanding?
@@DirtTrackDave
All of it. Guess it just moves too fast for Me.
From the earliest part of looking in from the right rear I am lost. Like I said, I am not smart enough, even though I would love to gain this knowledge you posted.
@@T1C45 you can contact me via Facebook link is on my channel page.
It's part easy.....just have to school your self
There is no better way to learn then track testing.
Hahahahahaha
To many fucking commercials...wtf
do you have facebook or a way where i can msg you
Hey eddie just seeing this message me here facebook.com/DirtLateModelTechTips/posts/1678573748976084