To be honest, they aren't even all that much of luxury cars... they just exist because they are expensive and people want to look important by buying something they can barley afford.
imo imo imo I feel like normies ruined a lot of cool car things for us car guys. We wanted simple mechanics and they wanted futuristic gizmos and what not. I drive a 2006 RAV4, 2002 Sequoia, and a 2023 Kona. While I do appriciate the features the Kona has, something about driving the rav4 and sequoia is so much more enjoyable.
It's got nothing to do with ‘the normies’. It's the stealerships. Follow the money: who owns all new cars currently being driven? Not the drivers, but the stealership. Who buys cars from the manufacturers? Not drivers. Stealerships. It's the stealerships that create the demand for all this crap. I wish I could say I supported Tesla for trying to break the protectionist/socialist model but lolno, not with that Crybertrunk.
Since there is no pass through you can’t haul anything. I can haul more in my RAV4. Modern trucks are so long there is nowhere to park and you can’t do a U turn.
Couple years ago I bought a 99 super duty f250 4wd 5.4(2v triton) 5 sp. (First year that has 4 wheel discs)13 mpg Love it. No pushbuttons, just levers. ..and I'll never be too lazy to get out and lock hubs.
You can tighten the play in the steering box , there is a locknut and allen keyed headed bolt on the top of the steering box. Turning clockwise to tighten ,there is a possibility of over tightening causing the steering box to bind up so do half turns and test for play. I ended up fitting a return to centre steering damper on my f250 cause I was getting bump steer on 35s and definitely made a huge improvement on steering .
The best way to do this is to pop the drag link off the end of the pittman arm. Then you can physically move the pittman arm back and forth with your hand and feel the backlash in the gear. You have to do this at the center (steering wheel) position and also full left and full right - the gears wear more in the center zone so you may have it set tight there which is too tight at full lock. I set mine probably about .005-.008" backlash (guessing by feel, haven't put a dial indicator on it) in the center position and then check that it doesn't bind at the extremes. It makes a big difference!
If the brake pedal goes to the floor you need to adjust the rear brakes or bleed them. you may also need a master cylinder. Early 90s fords were not as good as the late 80s fords IMO. i had one of each. My 93 was junk compared to my 87. Any truck with leaf springs in the front is gonna ride like a tractor.
@@LooseFab if this truck has the traditional brake booster (as opposed to hydroboost), there's an acorn nut with a jam nut on the end of the pushrod that goes from the booster to the master cylinder. You can adjust pedal travel there - just make sure you don't inadvertently make it too long and cause the brakes to constantly drag.
My old truck was a 73 power wagon. I loved that truck. It was literally a brick on wheels lol. And rode like it. Nothing but pure noise and always empty tanks lol. Miss that old truck.
That's an excellent point at 2:34 about how you have to be on your game driving an older truck, this applies to most older vehicles. Modern cars and trucks are so refined and work so hard to remove you from the driving experience that I honestly believe it encourages people to do stupid shit like check their phones on the highway at 80mph and things like that. Driving an older vehicle with a manual transmission and no power steering is a full body workout in contrast to what some vehicles that now basically will drive themselves with the only requirement being that your hands are on the wheel.
Honestly anyone zoning out while rolling 4 tons of metal down the road at 65mph is the world’s biggest fool. Even new trucks with all the safety gadgets are still a massive battering ram on the move, and take significant time/distance to stop. I think daily driving an hd truck made me a much more conservative and attentive driver.
Drove many of those old trucks in my teens and 20s in my late 40s now I like the new comfy trucks tons of back pain. Visit the chiropractor regularly. Need old man truck.
All of the new EPA regulations are a scam, I swear. Fuel economy is not better on most new vehicles compared to their equivalent counter-parts. What has changed is the reliability and maintainability on newer vehicles, which is swirling around the toilet. Carbon build-up up the wazoo with direct injection and EGR's, and more fragile motors that try to game the unnecessarily stringent emission standards that target a demographic (the regular consumer) that pollute the least in the grand scheme of things. This era was the sweet spot, but the shot callers in government acted like they were dumping raw fuel out the back, and tried to kill them all with Cash for Clunkers. And this isn't even touching on what they did to diesel vehicles with DEF bs. It's good to see TH-camrs bringing these gems to the forefront again. As more and more people bring these legends back, more people can discover how we've all been sold lies about the past, to buy the overpriced unmaintainable cars of today.
BS, my '85 Ford, 91 Chevy, and 96 Dodge all sucked the gas. I can't tell you how many times that frickin 85 F150 broke down on me, failed u-joints, bad ignition modules, faulty carb, I could go on. I'm driving an 2016 F150 that I put over 155000 miles on and had to replace a seal on the turbo cooler line, and one pinion seal under warranty when I first got the truck. I get it, trucks are expensive, and not everyone can afford them, so they hate on them to make themselves feel better. The trucks today are more fuel efficient, more reliable and they are safer. The bottom line with any of this stuff, no matter the make or model, is YOU HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF IT!!!!!!
thats a great way to put it. I'm telling anyone that will listen that older trucks are the way. cant beat the simplicity, and no car payment to boot. thanks for watching
The reason new vehicale don't get better milage is simple physics. It takes X amount of energy to move X amount of mass. The reason diesels do so well ot this is because they have much hight compression ratios to explode the fuel, so you get way more torque. More torque means the engine can run slower to move tha mass. slower running less explosions in the cylinders, less explosions less fuel needed to move the mass. Most gas engines run at 8.5 to 1 compression ratio. diesels run at 17 or higher to 1 compression ratio. Most gas engines are 12.5 % efficient, Most diesel engines are 25% efficient I drive a 1994 dodge cumins turbo diesel 2500 it gets about 22mpg highway and about 18mpg city. and it weighs 6000lbs. my Sister drive a 2024 chevy 1500.with 5.3 gas engine she gets 22mpg highway and i don't know for city. her truck weighs 4500lbs. I wouldn't trade her even if she threw in some cash.
The thing about driving an old truck, is if the truck has play in the steering wheel that can be adjusted out at the steering gear box with a boxed in wrench and an Allen wrench. Different if it’s got rack and pinion. The other thing about driving an old truck, is that not all of them have power brakes and they do have a stiffer peddle if the truck lacks power brakes. A truck with power brakes will have a little more travel in the break peddle, then one without power brakes but it still should not go nearly to the floor. As it should have similar travel to the clutch peddle, before it catch’s if the truck has a stick shift but they should not feel any different then a new car’s brake peddle other then no abs pulsing. If it does not feel that way, then something isn’t right.
Oh and the older the truck, the less modern convenience it will have. As my 1965 Ford F-100, lacked power steering, power brakes, power windows, A/C, cruse control, electric seats, heated seats, electric door locks, usb ports, blue tooth radio, onstar all that was completely non existent. Some of that could be added, but with all the air vents in the kick plates, vent windows opened and door windows down and lack of sound deadening most of it would be useless. But with that 40 acre steering wheel, you didn’t need power steering it handled just like it had it while moving.
As a person who works on newer cars and trucks everyday, I personally like my older stuff. All the vehicles I've owned have been before 2000, and they do amazingly and have been easy to work on. And in comparison, I've seen newer vehicles make it less than 50,000 miles before having major engine or transmission problems, while the older vehicles I own have well over 250,000 miles on them and still chugging along.
I love older cars. Mostly cause less nanny features and expensive parts. Also better looking lol. My 2002 Tundra is a great example. I am nearly at 190K miles and not a single major problem in the three years I've owned it. Just minor issues that will always come about like O2 sensors. But nothing which would have kept me from driving. I personally love it not having traction control or abs. I don't need that junk saying different to how I want to drive. My car my rules lol.
@@braixeninfection6312 odd, I thought nearly all vehicles produce after the 90's had ABS. Heck even my 87 Ford Bronco 2 has a similar thing in the form of rear anti-lock brakes. But I do agree with you on some aspects, having more control in a vehicle I believe is better. Hence why I'm a fan of manual transmissions over auto. Though modern auto transmissions do have their perks in terms of increased torque, you don't get the full control over it in terms of a manual transmission. Plus, manual transmissions are easier to have serviced than automatics.
@@Crillikin I'm not sure at what point ABS was on every car. Also you're right about manual. I love driving a manual and feeling the full control of the car. Auto's are easy but I lose a lot of what I enjoy doing. Auto's will only get harder and more expensive to repair while manuals will still be cheap lol.
Hell, I have a 1996 Chevy C1500 standard cab 2WD, 350 vortec ( since 2002) and Im happy with 19 highway 15 city. An F 350 with a huge V8, that's some really good gas mileage. I don't mind the truck like drive on mine (88-98 GMT 400). Rear wheel drum brakes, stops just fine. 15" wheels, a set of tires is about $600. Real chrome plated steel bumpers, FOUR SPEED automatic (4L60e), not those damn 8-9-10 speeds. Mostly easy to diagnose and repair since 1996 was the first year of ODB 2. Parts are fairly inexpensive and everything is easy to get to. Only bigger job was the intake manifold gasket. Pitman arm/Idler arm/drag link was a big of a job for an old goat like me on my back with hand tools but it was doable. Besides all that cool stuff, I dig the ash tray/cigarette lighter/ analog odometer and cassette player!. Old trucks are cool. With only 148,000 miles on this 1996 and no rust (keep it out of mich winters) at 60 years old, this truck will probably outlast me.
An F 350 with a Diesel V8, it makes a huge difference. My truck is a 93 Dodge, with a 12 valve Cummins, and I get 27.75 mpg on the highway, and 20 mpg city.
Nice! I have a 96 Sierra 1500… Victory Red with the 305/5 speed manual. Just retired it at 251,000, and now I’m going to fix it up and keep it for a toy. 10 years from now, it won’t seem as silly as it sounds today. They’re dying fast. Rebuilt the front end already, next will be a whole new interior, and eventually new rockers, cab corners, and paint. Maybe an LS and Tremec TKO if I make some wise financial decisions!
Few things. Try not to have the camera angle constantly jumping around. It makes people (and me) nauseous. And the brakes shouldn't be weak at all. Even on an old 1 ton you should be able to lock the wheels up if you don't have ABS. You should probably replace or rebuild (it's pretty easy) the brake master and do a complete brake fluid flush and check for leaks. Everything else was pretty good. Keep up the good work 👍
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave some feedback. I tried doing the mutlitple cameras to keep it from being too stagnant, but I will definitely keep that in mind for next time. Maybe I won't do the quick swaps between cameras anymore. I had to rebuild the brakes on my ae86 so maybe I'll give that a shot with this truck too, thanks for the heads up!
@@LooseFab you're welcome. It's ok to swap cameras for the reason you said just not so often. Maybe a 2-3 minutes per angle change. And the brakes thing. Those 1 tons have substantially heavier duty brakes than the half tons. It shouldn't have any stopping issues at all when completely or mostly unloaded. So hopefully you get them sorted out. Edit. Google says there's a black plug on the front of the brake booster that can help soft brakes if replaced with a new one.
what you said all true, But these older trucks have drum brakes in the back and they do need more stopping distance. I learned this the hard way and pushed the trunk lid on a honda civic up to the back window small dent in my bumper and acrack in the grille 94 dodge. So keep your distance.
@@markseehawer3762 Reminds me of when my parents took my 2004 Suburban 1500 to the city and some jackass rear ended them in some 90s small sedan, probably a toyota corolla or something. Fucked his hood up something terrible, small scratch on my (real metal!) rear bumper. He drove away of course, they always do.
Yes they were very dependable. Any vehicle the more it sits is bad for all the vehicles systems . It's not really that old to me . I drove my dad's 85 Ford F150 300 six , automatic transmission, no air , no carpet , am radio . Came stock with little 195 /75 R 15 Firestone radials on basic steel wheels with little poverty caps . What a great truck he bought new . Im use to driving older trucks . Like 1970 Chevrolet / GMC 's and the later Square bodies when first introduced . All were basic work trucks . Parts were not really becoming an issue until after the early 2000's. Here in PA . farm country you see lots of older pickups still working on farms . I love seeing them . Some are in pretty good condition for the years .
thanks for taking the time to comment, I love hearing peoples stories about their experiences with old cars/trucks. Sounds like your dad picked a cool little truck.
I was born in the 80s and that truck is newer than 3/4 of the vehicles i have owned. Granted it was essentially designed in 1979, just with a bunch of sensors and emissions stuff rigged up. Solid truck though. Actually looking for one now for hauling. No diesel for me though. I will take a 460.
@@LooseFab only trouble is you can cut that fuel mileage in half unless you got an overdrive. But yeah 460s are incredibly understressed and even a basic rebuild and minor optimization they make a very calm 350hp/450 lift.
When I switched din a 96 suburban to an 01, I was initially disappointed it drove more like a car. Also it has buttons to switch to 4wd instead of a shifter. That turned out to be an advantage. I love the ride too. 70k later I'm still happy with it.
I simp for the GMT800 trucks and SUVs. Best vehicles GM has made in the past 30 years and the gen 3 LS small blocks are some of the best engines they've made, period. Shame they had so many problems with rust, though. Styling wise I do like the GMT400 and OBS chevys better because *b o x,* but for reliability and drivability versus complexity in the GM field, 1999-2007 Classic is an unbeatable run.
Miss my ‘95 ford with the 351. Only complaint was the brake grab when it was cold, usually only did it the first couple stops but it was a damn good truck
I have a 1994 Chevy C60 rollback. I'm pressing her back into service with all new parts and starting my own towing business later this year. Like a Rock.
I don't find the OBS Fords to be "old". I have both a new AMG and a 97 F350 dually, 4 door, 7.3/5spd. The F350 doesn't feel antiquated when I drive it. I think they're the best truck, period.
You're going to like the simplicity of repair. How many people I hear now a days saying I wish I could fix it myself rather than take it to a garage and cost so much! I think the love affair with overly tech features is really biting people in their wallets and they resent it.
couldn't have said it better myself. the few repairs ive done on it so far have been great learning experiences and very rewarding. Doesnt hurt that it saved me money too!
On the MPG point about older cars. I use to drive a 92 AE90 series Corolla which had a 1.6L I4 banger. It would regularly do 32 to 35 MPG if I drove conservatively. This car did have a 5-speed manual and no rev-counter and I still did pretty good with it. I've never owned another vehicle with that mileage. But, that car weighs a lot less than modern cars with much bigger engines.
@@LooseFab Awesome, wished mine was the coupe, but it was the sedan, and poverty spec at that. So it does share the engine block. Still rode as good in 2007 as my 06 Volvo S60.
The Fuel efficiency thing is funny. I actually get better gas mileage in my survivor mint 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo then my current 2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee People ask why I drive and keep my old Grand Cherokee when I have a new one and my response is simple "It's just simple to drive. No bells no Whistles No syncing of phones. No alarms when I get too close no navigation" A nice throwback to my youth and driving !!!!
Same with a '66 Oldsmobile. Having manual brakes, every time I drive the car it's leg day for my right leg and I can lock all 4 up rather easily. Old vehicle with drum brakes =/= shitty and unresponsive brakes.
Fuel mileage has dropped since diesel trucks have been burdened with emission controls. I find the big rear drum brakes are better than the disc brakes on the rear of new trucks
rescued my brothers 1995 eddie bauer f150 , sanded it , primed, sprayed paint and recleared whole truck, love the two tanks, it sometimes has idle issue, but is a tank, rides great with 31s , they should make them like this now.
I drive a '66 f100 4x4. Mostly stock. Not at all like the new "jacked up" tight pants trucks. Yes, you hafta be involved with the driving part. Wouldn't trade it for a newer one.
It's the age when old trucks are Not really old. Because those new trucks are not as dependable. Thesedays just purchase a good year model and be satisfied.
Your comment on the brakes is a little concerning. I have a 95 f250, and the brake pedal is very firm and the brakes are very grabby and effective. I went from my 96 sierra to the ford, and I about launched myself through the windshield a few times when i first got it!
My 04 Duramax does 11-12 liters per hundred km. It's a long box crew cab 4x4. No DEF, or reburner in this unit, and runs like a champ. No shop time on this ol Max. Had it since new, don't want anything else. Thousands of dollars, it seems, all new diesel need in shop time is what keeps from upgrading. They eat fuel, and have constant DEF issues in winter.
I bought a 2004 F-150 and it had about that much play in the steering. I ended up replacing the upper and lower ball joints as well as the inner and outer tie rods on both sides of the front. Now the steering is very tight and drives so much better. Total cost was about $200 including the tools I needed to do the job.
I had always defined an old truck as having a metal dashboard and no seat belts. But I suppose being at least 30 years old counts, too. My 91 Chevy K1500 gets 17 MPG on the highway. 5000 pounds and all the towing power I need. Rides smooth, drives fine, and parts are cheap and plentiful. I don't understand the need for a shiny new $75,000 truck.
For the younger generations. Old vehicles with a carburetor. There are two jets. One for air. One for fuel. Turn them in for better fuel mileage. Turn them out for more power. Old engines. Never time the engine with a timing gun. Don't do it. Unless the engines are brand new. You have to do it by ear. Loosen the distributor. Start the engine. Turn the distributor left and right to where the engine almost dies. Find the middle point. Then. Turn it just around 1/8 of an inch to the left. Depending on how worn the parts are. It may vary. Just off center. Also. When doing. Plug the advance vacuum line on the distributor with a screw driver. Wear ear plugs. I lost half of my hearing doing it this way. You do it. You might find out why.
At least you can sit on the top of the front fenders, rest your feet on the frame/motor mounts, and work on the engine. With today's vehicles, my biggest concern is, "Can I get my hand & forearm down between the back of the engine & the firewall."
Up grade the brakes with Power Stop discs & brake pads . Old trucks are the only way to go . Get a repair manual, has torque specs and helpful information.
I bought a 1980 Jeep Wagoneer 4x4 back in the early 00s for $100. It was easy to work on and more fuel efficient than the v4 I had been driving up to that point.
@LooseFab nah, it blew out the rear main seal out of the blue one summer day and I was too dumb to catch it before the engine seized... literally on the way to pick up a new seal and transmission. Tragic learning experience. Been looking for another one for decades now. I loved that vehicle.
I bought my 1994 cumins diesel dodge 12 years ago for $900.00. it needed work but i'm a mechanic so that wasn't a problem. I've resently done a loose calculation on average annual expence to run that truck maintenance wise, not fuel. It turns out out that it casts about $850.00 a year. Thats like one truck payment on something new. So 12 years of driving for the price of 1 year in a new truck. If you can do your own work an old truck is the way to go. And old 12valve cumins engines are mechanical injection with no emissions gadgets on them. If you hold the fuel shut off soliniod open my diesel will run with the key in the off position. So simple.
Great video mate, I have a 1996 Ford F150 with a 5.0L (302) Windsor V8 with 210,000 miles and still going strong, the only things I replaced on my truck was the starter, the rear fuel pump, and the power steering megunisum but other than that mostly was just simple maintenance, took out the transmission fluid just to get rid of the shuttering it was making and it hasn't had a problem ever since.
My 84 IDI 6.9 gets the same mileage as my "New" 97 4.0l Ranger. Old is a relative term. Ranger is the DD, the F-250 is for when I need to push over a house.
Definitely adjust your brakes. It shouldn't go all the way down. If it has rear drums adjust those. Lift the back end up and spin the wheels by hand. Then adjust the star wheel inside the drums until they just start to drag (You'll hear the noise, don't adjust too tight as they are a huge pain to back off lol). It will feel a ton better when braking as the rear should be taking some of the force instead of only the front. My Tundra has rear drums. And I can feel a huge difference when the rears are not adjusted enough. It will feel sloppy when braking with more petal travel. Fully adjusted brakes will feel amazing almost like new! Ps I love older trucks. The maintenance is so much cheaper and easier. I love doing as much as I can on my own.
Own a 96 Bronco with the 351 and it gets 10 highway, 9 city about 24L/100km. As for brakes, yeah going to the floor sounds like you need to purge the old fluid and replace the rubber hoses asap. Also to get better braking: EBC brakes. It will some work on the old fords to change the rotors but put in the heavy duty orange pads with your choice of EBC blanks or slotted rotors and the stainless line conversion with DOT4 Super brake fluid, and I guarantee you can get mud tires to lock up on dry pavement.
I drive a 2020 F250, previous to that an 09 F250. 3 years ago I bought a 79 F150 (all 4WD). This is the 3rd 78-79 F150 I’ve owned, all 4x4 with manual transmission. Love the 78-79 trucks! It’s a different driving experience compared to the newer luxury trucks. You are waaay more in tune with the road, the truck and what’s going on. I put rear discs on my 79 along with a new master cylinder, brake booster and electric vacuum pump. Man, that truck compares to new trucks in braking, even with 11” rotors in the rear, single piston calipers up front and 15” wheels. It’s a driving experience totally different than driving newer vehicles that some will never know or understand if they never drove pre 1980 vehicles. You gotta love the simplicity, the lack of creature comforts and the seat of the pants feeling that makes you pay much more attention while driving one of these. Yes, they were new at one time, but that’s the only thing we knew and had at the time, and a lot of the “features” they had were upgrades from what we had, or didn’t have. Now it’s all electronics and conveniences, but it isolates a lot of the feeling of the road and takes away the actual sensory perception of what’s going on and I think it makes alot of people worse drivers in that sense in that they pay more attention to other things instead of the roads and actual driving.
you definitely lose that connection with your vehicle. I feel like every old vehicle, even two of the same make/model will be vastly different because they develop so much character over the years. thanks for watching.
@@hermancm How do you like the 300? I never drove the truck with one in it. My 460 is so thirsty it’s hard to drive it as much as I would like to. But with good carb and timing, it has a lot of torque and I don’t have to downshift as much as I used to with the 351M engines I had in the other dent sides I had.
@@daveb9370 Well it’s a tired old engine and I don’t know how many miles are on it but it’s had blow by some 7 years ago but I did a ceramic engine treatment that has stopped it for now. I pull a commercial mower on a trailer trailer with the truck in the summers and it only gets 11 mpg with that set up but like I said the truck is very reliable with little going wrong except a starter a few years ago and the blow by problem. The truck is so much different than the modern Ford I drive for work with it’s powerful for the size 2.7L engine and creature comforts in the cab plus it’s decent fuel efficiency. As far as the gas the ‘78 goes through, it’s not a big deal since I only put maybe 1500 miles on it every summer. It sits in the yard during out long northern Wisconsin winters.
Beautifully recorded and edited; straight-from-the-shoulder info. I recall my (now 50ish) teenage sons asking, "Dad, will we ever own a vehicle made in the same decade we are living in?" And you can guess what they're driving now. Thanks to the web, we can make good decisions about which older vehicles can still deliver.
1994! Hell that's damn near new! You haven't driven an OLD pickup until you've driven one with a straight axle, king pins and Granny Low 1st gear 4 speed and 4.10 or lower gears out back. My first 9 to 5 job was in the parts department of a construction equipment dealership. My parts chaser was a '67 IH 3/4 ton with a 345-2V, granny low 4 speed and a 5.13 to 1 Dana rear axle. No power options of any kind. The king pins in the front straight axle needed serious work so when you turned a corner you had to crank it back straight manually. It's only saving grace was a set of Michelin 6 ply radials. They eventually upgraded me to a '72 IH 3/4 Ton but it had 1-1/2 Ton rear springs and a bedliner made out of 1/4" tread plate. Also a 345-2v 4 speed but it only had 4.10 gears and it had power steering and power brakes. It rode like a hayrack but it still felt like driving a Rolls Royce after that old '67!
Newer vehicles have too much tech in them. Which cost more to repair and higher chance brake down imo. They don’t make trucks like this anymore. Newer diesel all have def/emissions control bs on them. Which just choke engine more and end up killing the engine.
My 80s/90s ford half ton trucks all had very poorly performing brakes. It seems to just be how they were made. I don't know if something worthwhile can be done to improve that much or if F250/350 brakes are shitty too.
94 f350 crewcab....crap brakes, even after totally rebuilding the brakes too. Master, calipers, drums, cylinder, and brakes lines. Only thing I couldn't replace was the ABS for the rear brakes.
From WC, I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, Regular cab and box, 4 cylinder 5 speed manual, now with 65,000 miles! Runs great, recently had to put new front end parts on it where rubber bushings had wore out, about $500. Had to replace power pack on ignition a couple of years ago about $150. I change the oil once a year, gets 20-22 miles per gallon! When I go to the store my little Lexi girl goes with me, loves the truck, it has a/c so she won’t get hot! It is just 2 wheel drive but I take it back behind my house to pick up downed limbs or bigger pieces! I paid $7500 hundred for it in 2014! My neighbor has a full sized 2014 Chevy he paid $30,000 for a few years ago, 4wd, he got it stuck down behind his house a couple of years ago, had to have a wrecker pull him out! Beautiful truck all the bells and whistles, he can even use it to go to Lowe’s to get 2by4’s and other small items! Washes and cleans it up after every rain! Looks great but I think I’ll just keep my little Ranger and fix things as needed, certainly less than new truck payments!
My 3 favorite trucks that I ever owned were an 84 Dodge D-150 long wheelbase and a 94 Chevy 1500 long wheelbase. The 3rd was a 2001 Ford F-250 with the off road package that simply refused to die. It had accumulated 380,000 miles and still ran and drove great when i traded it off. I also had a few 80s, 90s and 2000s compact trucks (Rangers & S-10's) that were excellent on fuel and fun to drive. All were easier to work on and much more dependable than anything available today. It does feel weird to hear people talk about them like their ancient.
First, to me a 1994 truck isn't that old. Second, he said he used a code scanner. 1996 is when OBDI 2 came out so this truck has the OBDI 1 system which didn't tell you much. Before that you had to have a jumper key you had to insert in the fuse box and then count the warning light flashes to get a trouble code. Third, trucks used to be built for actual work, not just driving around. Comfort wasn't much of a consideration.
I tried the powerstop front brake kit (pads, calipers, drilled and slotted rotors) from rockauto on my 97 f250hd about 2 years ago. The truck stops much better than the original parts. Even with my 3000lb truck camper in the bed. Seems like i get less brake dust, too.
@LooseFab 2 years ago, I did a major refresh on the front of my truck. I swapped the dana 50 twin traction beam to a 97 dana 60 straight axle. So, to be honest, I also put all new stainless brake lines from inline tube to replace my rusted and spliced ones. New hoses, new master cylinder, and a new vacuum booster. The truck really stops great. I also put a new redhead steering box, p/s pump, lines & hoses. New XRF ball joints that have a million mile warranty, as well as all new steering components, shocks, leaf springs & S&B body bushings. It seems to turn much easier, smoother, faster & more precise. These are the best things I ever did to my truck with the most dramatic results. She drives, steers, and handles much better than when I bought her new in 97. I also painted the frame and undercarriage with mastercoat, which is way better than por15 or anything else out there. They use it on bridges and train cars. It's impervious to road salt and brine as well as all automotive fluids, including brake fluid and acetone. On TH-cam, "repair geek " did a video called "friends don't let friends use por15." Hopefully, I will get another 25 years out of the truck. All this work was much cheaper than buying a new truck. Plus, these obs trucks look way better than the new trucks. Good luck, my friend.
Stellar milage or bare minimum emissions. Pick one. EPA wants both. Even the ancient carbureted V8s could get significantly better gas milage with a distributor recurve and base timing change and proper carb adjustment. The issue is when the engine is set up this way its emissions are up the wazzu.
Love the truck! A diesel will always have some higher maintenance costs but they do get better mileage and they run forever. Your brakes and loose steering are probably fixable issues. Any vehicle has upkeep and repair costs, I’ve seen brand new trucks with less thank 30k miles have transmission and computer problems even the dealership couldn’t get fixed.
I've made my late pops 1994 Chevy K1500 4x4 5.7Lt 350 auto tranny truck my daily driver and yes things /parts will break down you just have to go get them fixed and keep driving them and they are like driving well oiled tanks and keep going !!!
I dont think its a bad comparison, but people need to keep in mind that diesel fuel has more energy per gallon when compared to gasoline, and is usually more expensive. So the tacoma and ranger getting sub 17 vs the 350 getting 17 may not be the same cost for fuel at the end of the day. And yes, the 350 is heaver and can tow much more, obviously.
Make sure your front springs arent riding on the rubber bump stops. My fords all sagged out and had to get the springs replaced. Even Once on factory warranty
If you like that one you'd REALLY love the 99-03 Super duty F250 I've owned the 92 F350 7.3 same engine as yours 2000 F350 7.3 and it's WAY better than the old style
@@LooseFab i was gonna keep the 92 F350 forever but it got fluid bound for some reason we put another set of heads on it and still same thing once in a while it would crank and would have to put a wrench on crank to slowly turn over till it would get fluid out there never was any water in oil but I read where using the wrong antifreeze like regular prestone which I was can cause an oscillation around cylinder walls and can lead to a pin hole so I'm thinking possibly that was the problem So only use the Heavy Duty antifreeze from NAPA it's pinkish in color and very thick Glad it happened tho because the 2000 is so much better its quiet inside fast gets 16mpg with 4.11 gears and 2 bad injectors With fresh injectors it should get around 19mpg
I love these Ford trucks... why? They are actually trucks, they aren't City yuppie mobiles. The fuel economy of trucks haven't improved in the last 20-30 years, new trucks have gotten heavier and loaded up with more fancy electronics, new trucks aren't really much heavier, they just feel that way because the one benefit of newer trucks their steering is more responsive and their brakes are better. But the older trucks are what they are, trucks... they are meant to do what trucks are supposed to do, haul trailers, carry things in the bed. They aren't a aristocratic status symbol that new trucks have become, they are utility vehicles. If you wanted something sporty back then when this truck was made you got a sports car or a muscle car, if you wanted something comfortable you got a big sedan, if you wanted something efficient you got a little hatch back, if you wanted something in between you got a normal car.
@@mikeclassing5263 I have a few Ford trucks but the most reliable one is my old ‘78 F-150 long box with the 300 inline 6 and a B/W granny gear 4 speed.
Lmao. These were nice when I was in high school! 🙄 omg. My parents had a dark green 95 XLT extended cab. Loved that truck. You can actually feel the road and what it's doing.
I have a 1990 f150 xlt that I've had for 20 years. The 4.9 gets 16mpg, fully loaded or empty. With 150hp, it isnt fast, but it wasn't built to be. It is a work truck, not a luxury truck. But, power steering, power brakes and AC are luxury compared to the 1964 I drove for 20 years before buying this one.
Check your steering box & adjust it!! Your brakes should be gone thru & yea, it doesn't have giant rotor & multi-piston calipers, but, it should be that bad, like you said it was.
I recently drove a 2024 f-150 xlt power boost ,... I did not like it . 1. It doesn't drive like a truck. It drove like.... Not sure what to compare it to I've been driving trucks for so long, I could not feel the road there was not feedback from the road through the steering wheel 2. Its a hybrid , theres alot of lag when accelerating from a stop , and it seemed to idle rough at times . 3. Front window pilars create a blind spot because their so wide , driver side and passenger side windows are huge I feel like like I could fal out 4. Lcd display is distracting ( my wife had to figure out how to turn it off) 5. Instrument panel had no gauges, most of the time , when they did come on they were so small I needed glasses to see them. 6. Cruise control was located on lower left dash near the headlight switch. 7. Side step is a trip hazard . 8. It's mpg was about 17.8 on the engine 27.7 when the hybrid thing would kick in( my 20 year old dodge gets 16.2 mpg) My current daily driver is a 95 f-250 7.3 with 300k
It's a truck man, there are good & bad things , comes with the territory of ownership, the one that will affect you eventually is parts availability. good luck & enjoy it. Don't worry about gas mileage, you lose that when you drive a truck. ❤
Im feeling old cause I dont consider these old trucks , I was driving them when they were new , my work truck was a 1996 F350 dually with a 12ft flat bed , 460 with manual trans and it did not get good fuel milage .
I have a lil 95 2.3 Ranger XL, that thing has nothing, just a steering wheel with no power steering, a 5 speed manual transmission, and that's it. The less stuff the less that can go wrong.
Put a new red head steering box in it and a-line it you be happy l have a 95 f250 power stroke with 350000 miles just maintenance and 2 cam seniors 16 to 17 mpg loaded or empty
I second the advice on changing your core out for a redhead. You’ll wish you’d done it sooner then you’ll be changing out all your steeering joints for perfection. I’ve heard of bad things happening adjusting the steering gear box.
I put a red head in my 97 4x4 f250hd 7.3 two years ago along with a new p/s pump, lines & hoses. My steering seems to turn much easier, smoother, faster & more precise. Seems better than when I bought the truck new
If that was a 460 gas V8, it would be 8 MPG at best. The play in the steering is partially due to the tires and may also have some loose stuff that need replaced. The steering stabilizer (shock absorber) is probably shot. Better to have THIS truck than any of the 'electronic wonders' that they are selling for $100k.
We flew out, bought this truck, bought a mustang and rented a trailer. Then drove it home! I have a video of that journey on my channel if you're interested. Thanks for watching!
@@LooseFab I'd say they're about on par to work on, just have different things to work on. If I were gonna get an idi it'd probably be a 6.9, same as the 7.3 just with thicker cylinder walls. Point is, the 7.3PSD and idi aren't really comparable, they're incredibly different. Sweet video!
The truck needs to be worked on, sounds like it has some issues that should be addressed, people tend to blame it being because it's old so it's normal and it's not.
Dumped a 2019 Ram and bought a 1998 f150 best move I ever made best mileage I ever got oh ya Ram was dumped at 6 months old never looked back. Hope I die before this old truck does I am 70 now
Not of fan of Canadians.
tf
same here, they are all cowards
Canadians are like Americans, only not as much.
The Canadian fought just as hard as any of the allied forces in WW2.
@@mikecubes1642huh?
@eprofessio They don’t like you Americans either.
Back when trucks were trucks and not luxury cars
To be honest, they aren't even all that much of luxury cars... they just exist because they are expensive and people want to look important by buying something they can barley afford.
imo imo imo
I feel like normies ruined a lot of cool car things for us car guys. We wanted simple mechanics and they wanted futuristic gizmos and what not. I drive a 2006 RAV4, 2002 Sequoia, and a 2023 Kona. While I do appriciate the features the Kona has, something about driving the rav4 and sequoia is so much more enjoyable.
It's got nothing to do with ‘the normies’. It's the stealerships. Follow the money: who owns all new cars currently being driven? Not the drivers, but the stealership. Who buys cars from the manufacturers? Not drivers. Stealerships.
It's the stealerships that create the demand for all this crap. I wish I could say I supported Tesla for trying to break the protectionist/socialist model but lolno, not with that Crybertrunk.
The 4-door trucks with postage-stamp sized beds they sell now are not pickup trucks. They are big SUVs with the rear cut off.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Thanks for watching
Yup...lol
they're all Chevy Avalanches but at least the Avalanche was somewhat reliable.
There luxury cars with 4 ft beds.
Since there is no pass through you can’t haul anything. I can haul more in my RAV4. Modern trucks are so long there is nowhere to park and you can’t do a U turn.
You know you are old if you don't think this truck is very old....like me.
That is definitely not an old truck
1994 is a late model to me.
A 1955 truck is starting to get a bit old. Trucks from the 1990s aren’t new but not really that old either.
@@dale116dot7and the ones that came afterjust didn’t make it through
My 82 Chevy was getting close to old.
Love the vent wing windows!
First vehicle I've had with them and I already can't live without em lol!
These trucks are still absolutely everywhere, many people still drive them daily or use them for work.
Most of them didn't quit running up here but the bodies rusted off of them!
@@LooseFab That’s not a Ford problem either, it’s just what happens depending on wherever you are.
Couple years ago I bought a 99 super duty f250 4wd 5.4(2v triton) 5 sp. (First year that has 4 wheel discs)13 mpg
Love it. No pushbuttons, just levers.
..and I'll never be too lazy to get out and lock hubs.
I never knew those 3 things were a "problem" when driving an old truck. I'm used to that and never thought twice about it.
You can tighten the play in the steering box , there is a locknut and allen keyed headed bolt on the top of the steering box. Turning clockwise to tighten ,there is a possibility of over tightening causing the steering box to bind up so do half turns and test for play. I ended up fitting a return to centre steering damper on my f250 cause I was getting bump steer on 35s and definitely made a huge improvement on steering .
thanks for giving me a heads up on this, I will definitely look into it! Thanks for watching!
@@LooseFab Don't tighten it too far. Quarter turn at a time. If you tighten it too far it'll break the box.
I did that to mine only half a turn it helped a lot.
The best way to do this is to pop the drag link off the end of the pittman arm. Then you can physically move the pittman arm back and forth with your hand and feel the backlash in the gear. You have to do this at the center (steering wheel) position and also full left and full right - the gears wear more in the center zone so you may have it set tight there which is too tight at full lock. I set mine probably about .005-.008" backlash (guessing by feel, haven't put a dial indicator on it) in the center position and then check that it doesn't bind at the extremes. It makes a big difference!
Love my 95 F150 with the I6 and 5 speed. I'm only 7 years older than my truck, but I'm pretty sure it will outlast me.
That was my first truck. Short cab, long bed, 4x4, and red. I sure miss it!
If the brake pedal goes to the floor you need to adjust the rear brakes or bleed them. you may also need a master cylinder. Early 90s fords were not as good as the late 80s fords IMO. i had one of each. My 93 was junk compared to my 87. Any truck with leaf springs in the front is gonna ride like a tractor.
sounds like i have some brake system maintenance in my future. Thanks for the heads up
@@LooseFab Leaf sprung truck are indestructable. If you don't like the ride put in an air ride seat.
Any truck that sounds like a tractor should ride like a tractor, on god
@@LooseFab if this truck has the traditional brake booster (as opposed to hydroboost), there's an acorn nut with a jam nut on the end of the pushrod that goes from the booster to the master cylinder. You can adjust pedal travel there - just make sure you don't inadvertently make it too long and cause the brakes to constantly drag.
My old truck was a 73 power wagon. I loved that truck. It was literally a brick on wheels lol. And rode like it. Nothing but pure noise and always empty tanks lol. Miss that old truck.
That's an excellent point at 2:34 about how you have to be on your game driving an older truck, this applies to most older vehicles. Modern cars and trucks are so refined and work so hard to remove you from the driving experience that I honestly believe it encourages people to do stupid shit like check their phones on the highway at 80mph and things like that. Driving an older vehicle with a manual transmission and no power steering is a full body workout in contrast to what some vehicles that now basically will drive themselves with the only requirement being that your hands are on the wheel.
You took the words right out of my mouth. It's more fun feeling more in touch with your vehicle i think. Thanks for watching
Honestly anyone zoning out while rolling 4 tons of metal down the road at 65mph is the world’s biggest fool. Even new trucks with all the safety gadgets are still a massive battering ram on the move, and take significant time/distance to stop. I think daily driving an hd truck made me a much more conservative and attentive driver.
Drove many of those old trucks in my teens and 20s in my late 40s now I like the new comfy trucks tons of back pain. Visit the chiropractor regularly. Need old man truck.
All of the new EPA regulations are a scam, I swear. Fuel economy is not better on most new vehicles compared to their equivalent counter-parts. What has changed is the reliability and maintainability on newer vehicles, which is swirling around the toilet. Carbon build-up up the wazoo with direct injection and EGR's, and more fragile motors that try to game the unnecessarily stringent emission standards that target a demographic (the regular consumer) that pollute the least in the grand scheme of things. This era was the sweet spot, but the shot callers in government acted like they were dumping raw fuel out the back, and tried to kill them all with Cash for Clunkers. And this isn't even touching on what they did to diesel vehicles with DEF bs.
It's good to see TH-camrs bringing these gems to the forefront again. As more and more people bring these legends back, more people can discover how we've all been sold lies about the past, to buy the overpriced unmaintainable cars of today.
BS, my '85 Ford, 91 Chevy, and 96 Dodge all sucked the gas. I can't tell you how many times that frickin 85 F150 broke down on me, failed u-joints, bad ignition modules, faulty carb, I could go on. I'm driving an 2016 F150 that I put over 155000 miles on and had to replace a seal on the turbo cooler line, and one pinion seal under warranty when I first got the truck. I get it, trucks are expensive, and not everyone can afford them, so they hate on them to make themselves feel better. The trucks today are more fuel efficient, more reliable and they are safer. The bottom line with any of this stuff, no matter the make or model, is YOU HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF IT!!!!!!
thats a great way to put it. I'm telling anyone that will listen that older trucks are the way. cant beat the simplicity, and no car payment to boot. thanks for watching
The reason new vehicale don't get better milage is simple physics. It takes X amount of energy to move X amount of mass. The reason diesels do so well ot this is because they have much hight compression ratios to explode the fuel, so you get way more torque. More torque means the engine can run slower to move tha mass. slower running less explosions in the cylinders, less explosions less fuel needed to move the mass. Most gas engines run at 8.5 to 1 compression ratio. diesels run at 17 or higher to 1 compression ratio. Most gas engines are 12.5 % efficient, Most diesel engines are 25% efficient I drive a 1994 dodge cumins turbo diesel 2500 it gets about 22mpg highway and about 18mpg city. and it weighs 6000lbs. my Sister drive a 2024 chevy 1500.with 5.3 gas engine she gets 22mpg highway and i don't know for city. her truck weighs 4500lbs. I wouldn't trade her even if she threw in some cash.
I get a solid 22-23 mpg with my F-150 work truck and the small 2.7L has more power than my older F-250 with a 5.4, twice the size of an engine!
@@chrisstromberg6527 that's with any vehicle regardless of the year, make, model and body style.
The thing about driving an old truck, is if the truck has play in the steering wheel that can be adjusted out at the steering gear box with a boxed in wrench and an Allen wrench. Different if it’s got rack and pinion. The other thing about driving an old truck, is that not all of them have power brakes and they do have a stiffer peddle if the truck lacks power brakes. A truck with power brakes will have a little more travel in the break peddle, then one without power brakes but it still should not go nearly to the floor. As it should have similar travel to the clutch peddle, before it catch’s if the truck has a stick shift but they should not feel any different then a new car’s brake peddle other then no abs pulsing. If it does not feel that way, then something isn’t right.
Oh and the older the truck, the less modern convenience it will have. As my 1965 Ford F-100, lacked power steering, power brakes, power windows, A/C, cruse control, electric seats, heated seats, electric door locks, usb ports, blue tooth radio, onstar all that was completely non existent. Some of that could be added, but with all the air vents in the kick plates, vent windows opened and door windows down and lack of sound deadening most of it would be useless. But with that 40 acre steering wheel, you didn’t need power steering it handled just like it had it while moving.
As a person who works on newer cars and trucks everyday, I personally like my older stuff. All the vehicles I've owned have been before 2000, and they do amazingly and have been easy to work on.
And in comparison, I've seen newer vehicles make it less than 50,000 miles before having major engine or transmission problems, while the older vehicles I own have well over 250,000 miles on them and still chugging along.
I love older cars. Mostly cause less nanny features and expensive parts. Also better looking lol. My 2002 Tundra is a great example. I am nearly at 190K miles and not a single major problem in the three years I've owned it. Just minor issues that will always come about like O2 sensors. But nothing which would have kept me from driving. I personally love it not having traction control or abs. I don't need that junk saying different to how I want to drive. My car my rules lol.
@@braixeninfection6312 odd, I thought nearly all vehicles produce after the 90's had ABS. Heck even my 87 Ford Bronco 2 has a similar thing in the form of rear anti-lock brakes.
But I do agree with you on some aspects, having more control in a vehicle I believe is better. Hence why I'm a fan of manual transmissions over auto. Though modern auto transmissions do have their perks in terms of increased torque, you don't get the full control over it in terms of a manual transmission.
Plus, manual transmissions are easier to have serviced than automatics.
@@Crillikin I'm not sure at what point ABS was on every car. Also you're right about manual. I love driving a manual and feeling the full control of the car. Auto's are easy but I lose a lot of what I enjoy doing. Auto's will only get harder and more expensive to repair while manuals will still be cheap lol.
Hell, I have a 1996 Chevy C1500 standard cab 2WD, 350 vortec ( since 2002) and Im happy with 19 highway 15 city. An F 350 with a huge V8, that's some really good gas mileage. I don't mind the truck like drive on mine (88-98 GMT 400). Rear wheel drum brakes, stops just fine. 15" wheels, a set of tires is about $600. Real chrome plated steel bumpers, FOUR SPEED automatic (4L60e), not those damn 8-9-10 speeds. Mostly easy to diagnose and repair since 1996 was the first year of ODB 2. Parts are fairly inexpensive and everything is easy to get to. Only bigger job was the intake manifold gasket. Pitman arm/Idler arm/drag link was a big of a job for an old goat like me on my back with hand tools but it was doable. Besides all that cool stuff, I dig the ash tray/cigarette lighter/ analog odometer and cassette player!. Old trucks are cool. With only 148,000 miles on this 1996 and no rust (keep it out of mich winters) at 60 years old, this truck will probably outlast me.
An F 350 with a Diesel V8, it makes a huge difference. My truck is a 93 Dodge, with a 12 valve Cummins, and I get 27.75 mpg on the highway, and 20 mpg city.
Nice! I have a 96 Sierra 1500… Victory Red with the 305/5 speed manual. Just retired it at 251,000, and now I’m going to fix it up and keep it for a toy. 10 years from now, it won’t seem as silly as it sounds today. They’re dying fast. Rebuilt the front end already, next will be a whole new interior, and eventually new rockers, cab corners, and paint. Maybe an LS and Tremec TKO if I make some wise financial decisions!
@@richardlea818 Sounds like a great project!
Sounds like it is actually making you drive and not day dream or playing with your phone .
Few things. Try not to have the camera angle constantly jumping around. It makes people (and me) nauseous. And the brakes shouldn't be weak at all. Even on an old 1 ton you should be able to lock the wheels up if you don't have ABS. You should probably replace or rebuild (it's pretty easy) the brake master and do a complete brake fluid flush and check for leaks. Everything else was pretty good. Keep up the good work 👍
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave some feedback. I tried doing the mutlitple cameras to keep it from being too stagnant, but I will definitely keep that in mind for next time. Maybe I won't do the quick swaps between cameras anymore. I had to rebuild the brakes on my ae86 so maybe I'll give that a shot with this truck too, thanks for the heads up!
@@LooseFab you're welcome. It's ok to swap cameras for the reason you said just not so often. Maybe a 2-3 minutes per angle change. And the brakes thing. Those 1 tons have substantially heavier duty brakes than the half tons. It shouldn't have any stopping issues at all when completely or mostly unloaded. So hopefully you get them sorted out.
Edit. Google says there's a black plug on the front of the brake booster that can help soft brakes if replaced with a new one.
what you said all true, But these older trucks have drum brakes in the back and they do need more stopping distance. I learned this the hard way and pushed the trunk lid on a honda civic up to the back window small dent in my bumper and acrack in the grille 94 dodge. So keep your distance.
@@markseehawer3762 Reminds me of when my parents took my 2004 Suburban 1500 to the city and some jackass rear ended them in some 90s small sedan, probably a toyota corolla or something. Fucked his hood up something terrible, small scratch on my (real metal!) rear bumper. He drove away of course, they always do.
@@markseehawer3762Drum brakes actually will stop you faster
Yes they were very dependable. Any vehicle the more it sits is bad for all the vehicles systems . It's not really that old to me . I drove my dad's 85 Ford F150 300 six , automatic transmission, no air , no carpet , am radio . Came stock with little 195 /75 R 15 Firestone radials on basic steel wheels with little poverty caps . What a great truck he bought new .
Im use to driving older trucks . Like 1970 Chevrolet / GMC 's and the later Square bodies when first introduced . All were basic work trucks . Parts were not really becoming an issue until after the early 2000's.
Here in PA . farm country you see lots of older pickups still working on farms . I love seeing them . Some are in pretty good condition for the years .
thanks for taking the time to comment, I love hearing peoples stories about their experiences with old cars/trucks. Sounds like your dad picked a cool little truck.
I was born in the 80s and that truck is newer than 3/4 of the vehicles i have owned. Granted it was essentially designed in 1979, just with a bunch of sensors and emissions stuff rigged up.
Solid truck though. Actually looking for one now for hauling. No diesel for me though. I will take a 460.
I hear those 460s are pretty dang bulletproof. Good luck with the search and thanks for watching
@@LooseFab only trouble is you can cut that fuel mileage in half unless you got an overdrive. But yeah 460s are incredibly understressed and even a basic rebuild and minor optimization they make a very calm 350hp/450 lift.
When I switched din a 96 suburban to an 01, I was initially disappointed it drove more like a car. Also it has buttons to switch to 4wd instead of a shifter. That turned out to be an advantage. I love the ride too. 70k later I'm still happy with it.
I simp for the GMT800 trucks and SUVs. Best vehicles GM has made in the past 30 years and the gen 3 LS small blocks are some of the best engines they've made, period. Shame they had so many problems with rust, though. Styling wise I do like the GMT400 and OBS chevys better because *b o x,* but for reliability and drivability versus complexity in the GM field, 1999-2007 Classic is an unbeatable run.
Miss my ‘95 ford with the 351. Only complaint was the brake grab when it was cold, usually only did it the first couple stops but it was a damn good truck
I have a 1994 Chevy C60 rollback. I'm pressing her back into service with all new parts and starting my own towing business later this year.
Like a Rock.
That's awesome man, that truck will be good to you! Good luck with the new endeavour and thanks for watching
I love my 1996 4Runner. Also has the 3.4 V6. It gets 21 mpg with the 5 speed manual trans despite being a 4x4. It's currently at 349,000 miles.
I had a 1999 tacoma and I loved that truck. The 4 runners are super nice, hang onto it!
I don't find the OBS Fords to be "old". I have both a new AMG and a 97 F350 dually, 4 door, 7.3/5spd. The F350 doesn't feel antiquated when I drive it. I think they're the best truck, period.
You're going to like the simplicity of repair. How many people I hear now a days saying I wish I could fix it myself rather than take it to a garage and cost so much! I think the love affair with overly tech features is really biting people in their wallets and they resent it.
couldn't have said it better myself. the few repairs ive done on it so far have been great learning experiences and very rewarding. Doesnt hurt that it saved me money too!
I'm a retired mechanic I'm not interested in owning anything built after 2010.
On the MPG point about older cars. I use to drive a 92 AE90 series Corolla which had a 1.6L I4 banger. It would regularly do 32 to 35 MPG if I drove conservatively. This car did have a 5-speed manual and no rev-counter and I still did pretty good with it. I've never owned another vehicle with that mileage. But, that car weighs a lot less than modern cars with much bigger engines.
You'd probably get a kick out of the other car I drive on this channel, an ae86 corolla. I think they shared the same motor!
@@LooseFab Awesome, wished mine was the coupe, but it was the sedan, and poverty spec at that. So it does share the engine block. Still rode as good in 2007 as my 06 Volvo S60.
I bought a 1992 brand new, that was the first year of that style. It was also the last traditional pickup that had a thirty plus year run.
That would have been a great truck to roll off the lot in. How many miles did you put on it?
The Fuel efficiency thing is funny. I actually get better gas mileage in my survivor mint 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo then my current 2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee
People ask why I drive and keep my old Grand Cherokee when I have a new one and my response is simple
"It's just simple to drive. No bells no Whistles No syncing of phones. No alarms when I get too close no navigation"
A nice throwback to my youth and driving !!!!
The break going to the floor that part you might want to check . I have a 88 crown Vic a 94 GMC van
Same with a '66 Oldsmobile. Having manual brakes, every time I drive the car it's leg day for my right leg and I can lock all 4 up rather easily. Old vehicle with drum brakes =/= shitty and unresponsive brakes.
Fuel mileage has dropped since diesel trucks have been burdened with emission controls. I find the big rear drum brakes are better than the disc brakes on the rear of new trucks
rescued my brothers 1995 eddie bauer f150 , sanded it , primed, sprayed paint and recleared whole truck, love the two tanks, it sometimes has idle issue, but is a tank, rides great with 31s , they should make them like this now.
That sounds like an awesome truck, I imagine it'll be good to you for a long time
I drive a '66 f100 4x4. Mostly stock. Not at all like the new "jacked up" tight pants trucks.
Yes, you hafta be involved with the driving part. Wouldn't trade it for a newer one.
It's the age when old trucks are Not really old. Because those new trucks are not as dependable. Thesedays just purchase a good year model and be satisfied.
@jacoballred You forgot to mention owing fewer, if ANY, payments!
Your comment on the brakes is a little concerning. I have a 95 f250, and the brake pedal is very firm and the brakes are very grabby and effective. I went from my 96 sierra to the ford, and I about launched myself through the windshield a few times when i first got it!
My 04 Duramax does 11-12 liters per hundred km. It's a long box crew cab 4x4. No DEF, or reburner in this unit, and runs like a champ. No shop time on this ol Max. Had it since new, don't want anything else. Thousands of dollars, it seems, all new diesel need in shop time is what keeps from upgrading. They eat fuel, and have constant DEF issues in winter.
I bought a 2004 F-150 and it had about that much play in the steering. I ended up replacing the upper and lower ball joints as well as the inner and outer tie rods on both sides of the front. Now the steering is very tight and drives so much better. Total cost was about $200 including the tools I needed to do the job.
Solid choice, shame about the spark plugs going to the moon, but if you can keep your lightning nozzles connected to the engine they were good trucks.
I had always defined an old truck as having a metal dashboard and no seat belts. But I suppose being at least 30 years old counts, too.
My 91 Chevy K1500 gets 17 MPG on the highway. 5000 pounds and all the towing power I need. Rides smooth, drives fine, and parts are cheap and plentiful. I don't understand the need for a shiny new $75,000 truck.
I absolutely agree. Sounds like you've got yourself a great truck, enjoy!
For the younger generations. Old vehicles with a carburetor. There are two jets. One for air. One for fuel. Turn them in for better fuel mileage. Turn them out for more power. Old engines. Never time the engine with a timing gun. Don't do it. Unless the engines are brand new. You have to do it by ear. Loosen the distributor. Start the engine. Turn the distributor left and right to where the engine almost dies. Find the middle point. Then. Turn it just around 1/8 of an inch to the left. Depending on how worn the parts are. It may vary. Just off center. Also. When doing. Plug the advance vacuum line on the distributor with a screw driver. Wear ear plugs. I lost half of my hearing doing it this way. You do it. You might find out why.
At least you can sit on the top of the front fenders, rest your feet on the frame/motor mounts, and work on the engine. With today's vehicles, my biggest concern is, "Can I get my hand & forearm down between the back of the engine & the firewall."
Up grade the brakes with Power Stop discs & brake pads . Old trucks are the only way to go . Get a repair manual, has torque specs and helpful information.
I bought a 1980 Jeep Wagoneer 4x4 back in the early 00s for $100.
It was easy to work on and more fuel efficient than the v4 I had been driving up to that point.
I love those wagoneers. You still driving it?
@LooseFab nah, it blew out the rear main seal out of the blue one summer day and I was too dumb to catch it before the engine seized... literally on the way to pick up a new seal and transmission. Tragic learning experience.
Been looking for another one for decades now. I loved that vehicle.
Ive been looking at older trucks on marketplace for a few months and the itch to buy one keeps growing
this is your sign to buy one!
I bought my 1994 cumins diesel dodge 12 years ago for $900.00. it needed work but i'm a mechanic so that wasn't a problem. I've resently done a loose calculation on average annual expence to run that truck maintenance wise, not fuel. It turns out out that it casts about $850.00 a year. Thats like one truck payment on something new. So 12 years of driving for the price of 1 year in a new truck. If you can do your own work an old truck is the way to go. And old 12valve cumins engines are mechanical injection with no emissions gadgets on them. If you hold the fuel shut off soliniod open my diesel will run with the key in the off position. So simple.
It is a calling, you must follow it.
Great video mate, I have a 1996 Ford F150 with a 5.0L (302) Windsor V8 with 210,000 miles and still going strong, the only things I replaced on my truck was the starter, the rear fuel pump, and the power steering megunisum but other than that mostly was just simple maintenance, took out the transmission fluid just to get rid of the shuttering it was making and it hasn't had a problem ever since.
My 84 IDI 6.9 gets the same mileage as my "New" 97 4.0l Ranger. Old is a relative term. Ranger is the DD, the F-250 is for when I need to push over a house.
Probably wouldn't miss a beat pushing down a house. Sounds like you've got a good stable of trucks. Thanks for watching!
01 and 05 ford excursion owner/perpetual restorer here... agreed on all points
Definitely adjust your brakes. It shouldn't go all the way down. If it has rear drums adjust those. Lift the back end up and spin the wheels by hand. Then adjust the star wheel inside the drums until they just start to drag (You'll hear the noise, don't adjust too tight as they are a huge pain to back off lol). It will feel a ton better when braking as the rear should be taking some of the force instead of only the front. My Tundra has rear drums. And I can feel a huge difference when the rears are not adjusted enough. It will feel sloppy when braking with more petal travel. Fully adjusted brakes will feel amazing almost like new!
Ps I love older trucks. The maintenance is so much cheaper and easier. I love doing as much as I can on my own.
Own a 96 Bronco with the 351 and it gets 10 highway, 9 city about 24L/100km. As for brakes, yeah going to the floor sounds like you need to purge the old fluid and replace the rubber hoses asap. Also to get better braking: EBC brakes. It will some work on the old fords to change the rotors but put in the heavy duty orange pads with your choice of EBC blanks or slotted rotors and the stainless line conversion with DOT4 Super brake fluid, and I guarantee you can get mud tires to lock up on dry pavement.
If you have a lot of steering play you need to check out your front end for worn components. Tyrod ends, ball joints etc.
I will look into that! thanks for watching.
I drive a 2020 F250, previous to that an 09 F250. 3 years ago I bought a 79 F150 (all 4WD). This is the 3rd 78-79 F150 I’ve owned, all 4x4 with manual transmission. Love the 78-79 trucks! It’s a different driving experience compared to the newer luxury trucks. You are waaay more in tune with the road, the truck and what’s going on. I put rear discs on my 79 along with a new master cylinder, brake booster and electric vacuum pump. Man, that truck compares to new trucks in braking, even with 11” rotors in the rear, single piston calipers up front and 15” wheels. It’s a driving experience totally different than driving newer vehicles that some will never know or understand if they never drove pre 1980 vehicles. You gotta love the simplicity, the lack of creature comforts and the seat of the pants feeling that makes you pay much more attention while driving one of these. Yes, they were new at one time, but that’s the only thing we knew and had at the time, and a lot of the “features” they had were upgrades from what we had, or didn’t have. Now it’s all electronics and conveniences, but it isolates a lot of the feeling of the road and takes away the actual sensory perception of what’s going on and I think it makes alot of people worse drivers in that sense in that they pay more attention to other things instead of the roads and actual driving.
you definitely lose that connection with your vehicle. I feel like every old vehicle, even two of the same make/model will be vastly different because they develop so much character over the years. thanks for watching.
I have a 78 F-150 with the 300 and granny gear 4 speed. It’s a very reliable truck.
@@hermancm
How do you like the 300? I never drove the truck with one in it. My 460 is so thirsty it’s hard to drive it as much as I would like to. But with good carb and timing, it has a lot of torque and I don’t have to downshift as much as I used to with the 351M engines I had in the other dent sides I had.
@@daveb9370 Well it’s a tired old engine and I don’t know how many miles are on it but it’s had blow by some 7 years ago but I did a ceramic engine treatment that has stopped it for now. I pull a commercial mower on a trailer trailer with the truck in the summers and it only gets 11 mpg with that set up but like I said the truck is very reliable with little going wrong except a starter a few years ago and the blow by problem. The truck is so much different than the modern Ford I drive for work with it’s powerful for the size 2.7L engine and creature comforts in the cab plus it’s decent fuel efficiency. As far as the gas the ‘78 goes through, it’s not a big deal since I only put maybe 1500 miles on it every summer. It sits in the yard during out long northern Wisconsin winters.
Beautifully recorded and edited; straight-from-the-shoulder info. I recall my (now 50ish) teenage sons asking, "Dad, will we ever own a vehicle made in the same decade we are living in?" And you can guess what they're driving now. Thanks to the web, we can make good decisions about which older vehicles can still deliver.
I appreciate the kind words, and glad to hear others are still keeping their older vehicles running strong! Thanks for watching.
We still see these at the shop, actually have an 88 out back. Getting plastic parts is getting tuff though.
My old truck is a 62 C10. ;)
Great looking trucks!
1994! Hell that's damn near new! You haven't driven an OLD pickup until you've driven one with a straight axle, king pins and Granny Low 1st gear 4 speed and 4.10 or lower gears out back. My first 9 to 5 job was in the parts department of a construction equipment dealership. My parts chaser was a '67 IH 3/4 ton with a 345-2V, granny low 4 speed and a 5.13 to 1 Dana rear axle. No power options of any kind. The king pins in the front straight axle needed serious work so when you turned a corner you had to crank it back straight manually. It's only saving grace was a set of Michelin 6 ply radials. They eventually upgraded me to a '72 IH 3/4 Ton but it had 1-1/2 Ton rear springs and a bedliner made out of 1/4" tread plate. Also a 345-2v 4 speed but it only had 4.10 gears and it had power steering and power brakes. It rode like a hayrack but it still felt like driving a Rolls Royce after that old '67!
Newer vehicles have too much tech in them. Which cost more to repair and higher chance brake down imo. They don’t make trucks like this anymore. Newer diesel all have def/emissions control bs on them. Which just choke engine more and end up killing the engine.
My 80s/90s ford half ton trucks all had very poorly performing brakes. It seems to just be how they were made. I don't know if something worthwhile can be done to improve that much or if F250/350 brakes are shitty too.
94 f350 crewcab....crap brakes, even after totally rebuilding the brakes too. Master, calipers, drums, cylinder, and brakes lines. Only thing I couldn't replace was the ABS for the rear brakes.
From WC, I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, Regular cab and box, 4 cylinder 5 speed manual, now with 65,000 miles! Runs great, recently had to put new front end parts on it where rubber bushings had wore out, about $500. Had to replace power pack on ignition a couple of years ago about $150. I change the oil once a year, gets 20-22 miles per gallon! When I go to the store my little Lexi girl goes with me, loves the truck, it has a/c so she won’t get hot! It is just 2 wheel drive but I take it back behind my house to pick up downed limbs or bigger pieces! I paid $7500 hundred for it in 2014! My neighbor has a full sized 2014 Chevy he paid $30,000 for a few years ago, 4wd, he got it stuck down behind his house a couple of years ago, had to have a wrecker pull him out! Beautiful truck all the bells and whistles, he can even use it to go to Lowe’s to get 2by4’s and other small items! Washes and cleans it up after every rain! Looks great but I think I’ll just keep my little Ranger and fix things as needed, certainly less than new truck payments!
My 3 favorite trucks that I ever owned were an 84 Dodge D-150 long wheelbase and a 94 Chevy 1500 long wheelbase. The 3rd was a 2001 Ford F-250 with the off road package that simply refused to die. It had accumulated 380,000 miles and still ran and drove great when i traded it off. I also had a few 80s, 90s and 2000s compact trucks (Rangers & S-10's) that were excellent on fuel and fun to drive. All were easier to work on and much more dependable than anything available today. It does feel weird to hear people talk about them like their ancient.
Have a 97 F250 Powerstroke and was watching your hands on the wheel on a perfectly straight stretch of road... and, yep! I feel ya.
Hahah you get it! That's a great truck, how many miles on it?
@LooseFab 282k, just getting broken in!
First, to me a 1994 truck isn't that old. Second, he said he used a code scanner. 1996 is when OBDI 2 came out so this truck has the OBDI 1 system which didn't tell you much. Before that you had to have a jumper key you had to insert in the fuse box and then count the warning light flashes to get a trouble code. Third, trucks used to be built for actual work, not just driving around. Comfort wasn't much of a consideration.
I tried the powerstop front brake kit (pads, calipers, drilled and slotted rotors) from rockauto on my 97 f250hd about 2 years ago. The truck stops much better than the original parts. Even with my 3000lb truck camper in the bed. Seems like i get less brake dust, too.
great thanks for the recommendation, i'll look into that! thanks for watching!
@LooseFab 2 years ago, I did a major refresh on the front of my truck. I swapped the dana 50 twin traction beam to a 97 dana 60 straight axle. So, to be honest, I also put all new stainless brake lines from inline tube to replace my rusted and spliced ones. New hoses, new master cylinder, and a new vacuum booster. The truck really stops great.
I also put a new redhead steering box, p/s pump, lines & hoses. New XRF ball joints that have a million mile warranty, as well as all new steering components, shocks, leaf springs & S&B body bushings. It seems to turn much easier, smoother, faster & more precise. These are the best things I ever did to my truck with the most dramatic results. She drives, steers, and handles much better than when I bought her new in 97.
I also painted the frame and undercarriage with mastercoat, which is way better than por15 or anything else out there. They use it on bridges and train cars. It's impervious to road salt and brine as well as all automotive fluids, including brake fluid and acetone. On TH-cam, "repair geek " did a video called "friends don't let friends use por15." Hopefully, I will get another 25 years out of the truck. All this work was much cheaper than buying a new truck. Plus, these obs trucks look way better than the new trucks. Good luck, my friend.
Stellar milage or bare minimum emissions. Pick one. EPA wants both.
Even the ancient carbureted V8s could get significantly better gas milage with a distributor recurve and base timing change and proper carb adjustment. The issue is when the engine is set up this way its emissions are up the wazzu.
Love the truck! A diesel will always have some higher maintenance costs but they do get better mileage and they run forever. Your brakes and loose steering are probably fixable issues. Any vehicle has upkeep and repair costs, I’ve seen brand new trucks with less thank 30k miles have transmission and computer problems even the dealership couldn’t get fixed.
That's a great way to look at it! Thanks for watching
So true about listening. Radio is always off lol. Every sound 8m paranoid about
I've made my late pops 1994 Chevy K1500 4x4 5.7Lt 350 auto tranny truck my daily driver and yes things /parts will break down you just have to go get them fixed and keep driving them and they are like driving well oiled tanks and keep going !!!
they'll take care of you if you take care of them!!
@@LooseFab It just tripped a little over 138'000 original miles !!
My 2003 Ford Ranger is still going strong!
I dont think its a bad comparison, but people need to keep in mind that diesel fuel has more energy per gallon when compared to gasoline, and is usually more expensive. So the tacoma and ranger getting sub 17 vs the 350 getting 17 may not be the same cost for fuel at the end of the day. And yes, the 350 is heaver and can tow much more, obviously.
Make sure your front springs arent riding on the rubber bump stops. My fords all sagged out and had to get the springs replaced. Even Once on factory warranty
thanks for the heads up, ill look into that!
Good to know zoning out is very forgiving in modern vehicles.
If you like that one you'd REALLY love the 99-03 Super duty F250
I've owned the
92 F350 7.3 same engine as yours
2000 F350 7.3 and it's WAY better than the old style
I'll keep note of that if I'm ever in the market for another truck! Hopefully this one lasts me a good long while
@@LooseFab i was gonna keep the 92 F350 forever but it got fluid bound for some reason we put another set of heads on it and still same thing once in a while it would crank and would have to put a wrench on crank to slowly turn over till it would get fluid out there never was any water in oil but I read where using the wrong antifreeze like regular prestone which I was can cause an oscillation around cylinder walls and can lead to a pin hole so I'm thinking possibly that was the problem
So only use the Heavy Duty antifreeze from NAPA it's pinkish in color and very thick
Glad it happened tho because the 2000 is so much better its quiet inside fast gets 16mpg with 4.11 gears and 2 bad injectors
With fresh injectors it should get around 19mpg
Best investment you ever made , may have to throw a few bucks at it ever now and then.
Yea, it is a nice "older" truck, meaning not new. But as a 70 year old, for me the term old truck = pre 1960.😊
I love these Ford trucks... why? They are actually trucks, they aren't City yuppie mobiles.
The fuel economy of trucks haven't improved in the last 20-30 years, new trucks have gotten heavier and loaded up with more fancy electronics, new trucks aren't really much heavier, they just feel that way because the one benefit of newer trucks their steering is more responsive and their brakes are better.
But the older trucks are what they are, trucks... they are meant to do what trucks are supposed to do, haul trailers, carry things in the bed. They aren't a aristocratic status symbol that new trucks have become, they are utility vehicles. If you wanted something sporty back then when this truck was made you got a sports car or a muscle car, if you wanted something comfortable you got a big sedan, if you wanted something efficient you got a little hatch back, if you wanted something in between you got a normal car.
I remember when the 1994 Fords came out and how modern they looked.
I remember when the 1987s came out , what the young people call the brick nose Fords now and how strange looking I thought they were .
@@mikeclassing5263 I have a few Ford trucks but the most reliable one is my old ‘78 F-150 long box with the 300 inline 6 and a B/W granny gear 4 speed.
Watch out for that twisted shoulder harness. Seatbelts can be very dangerous even when properly utilized.
@@oNeGiAnTLiE I had no idea! Whats bad about a twisted harness?
Lmao. These were nice when I was in high school! 🙄 omg. My parents had a dark green 95 XLT extended cab. Loved that truck. You can actually feel the road and what it's doing.
And you have those little wing vent windows. I miss those! Keeping my 98 Tacoma forever.
Never knew how much I'd love those little windows! I had a 99 taco and Ill always miss that truck.
Brakes need to be worked on, they should lock up and feel strong
i'll have to start at diagnosing the brakes then, thanks for the heads up and thanks for watching
Love it, it loves you back.
Not really, I am too patient when my 95 nissan left me stranded because of a starter
Newer trucks don’t get better mileage but do have more power
I have a 1990 f150 xlt that I've had for 20 years. The 4.9 gets 16mpg, fully loaded or empty. With 150hp, it isnt fast, but it wasn't built to be. It is a work truck, not a luxury truck. But, power steering, power brakes and AC are luxury compared to the 1964 I drove for 20 years before buying this one.
sounds like you've got all the creature comforts you really need.
Check your steering box & adjust it!! Your brakes should be gone thru & yea, it doesn't have giant rotor & multi-piston calipers, but, it should be that bad, like you said it was.
sounds like I've got some repairs in my future, great excuse to get to know this truck better. Thanks for watching
I love my 1990 c 2500 chevy it has some rust not much and it might take me longer to get there but I have no car note
cant beat that! Enjoy the process with that truck, theyre a great looking machine.
I recently drove a 2024 f-150 xlt power boost ,... I did not like it .
1. It doesn't drive like a truck.
It drove like.... Not sure what to compare it to I've been driving trucks for so long, I could not feel the road there was not feedback from the road through the steering wheel
2. Its a hybrid , theres alot of lag when accelerating from a stop , and it seemed to idle rough at times .
3. Front window pilars create a blind spot because their so wide , driver side and passenger side windows are huge I feel like like I could fal out
4. Lcd display is distracting ( my wife had to figure out how to turn it off)
5. Instrument panel had no gauges, most of the time , when they did come on they were so small I needed glasses to see them.
6. Cruise control was located on lower left dash near the headlight switch.
7. Side step is a trip hazard .
8. It's mpg was about 17.8 on the engine 27.7 when the hybrid thing would kick in( my 20 year old dodge gets 16.2 mpg)
My current daily driver is a 95 f-250 7.3 with 300k
It's a truck man, there are good & bad things , comes with the territory of ownership, the one that will affect you eventually is parts availability. good luck & enjoy it. Don't worry about gas mileage, you lose that when you drive a truck. ❤
I think you need to check your truck brake bc in my obs truck I dont have to worry about pushing my brakes all the way down
Im feeling old cause I dont consider these old trucks , I was driving them when they were new , my work truck was a 1996 F350 dually with a 12ft flat bed , 460 with manual trans and it did not get good fuel milage .
Check those brakes ASAP!
I have a lil 95 2.3 Ranger XL, that thing has nothing, just a steering wheel with no power steering, a 5 speed manual transmission, and that's it. The less stuff the less that can go wrong.
That's my thoughts exactly. Those are great little trucks, manual makes it even better! Thanks for watching
Ever heard of up grade parts like blue top or kryptonite maybe look into brake up grades
I'll look into that, thank you!
Put a new red head steering box in it and a-line it you be happy l have a 95 f250 power stroke with 350000 miles just maintenance and 2 cam seniors 16 to 17 mpg loaded or empty
I second the advice on changing your core out for a redhead. You’ll wish you’d done it sooner then you’ll be changing out all your steeering joints for perfection. I’ve heard of bad things happening adjusting the steering gear box.
I put a red head in my 97 4x4 f250hd 7.3 two years ago along with a new p/s pump, lines & hoses. My steering seems to turn much easier, smoother, faster & more precise. Seems better than when I bought the truck new
I'm keeping my 95 nissan hardbody since the bed is 7 ft and I can fit my motorcycle and ramps in it
If that was a 460 gas V8, it would be 8 MPG at best. The play in the steering is partially due to the tires and may also have some loose stuff that need replaced. The steering stabilizer (shock absorber) is probably shot. Better to have THIS truck than any of the 'electronic wonders' that they are selling for $100k.
Them 460s know they love some gas lol
How does one fly across the country and then tow their car home?
We flew out, bought this truck, bought a mustang and rented a trailer. Then drove it home! I have a video of that journey on my channel if you're interested. Thanks for watching!
@@LooseFab I figured that might be the case...lol
This is the classic car experience in a nutshell. 🙂 Except for the brakes. You might want to get those checked out. 🤔
You got the Vanilla F350, less interesting that the Powerstroke but kinda neat in its own right
I have heard the turbo idi is both cheaper and easier to work on than the powerstroke, can't speak from experience though! Thanks for watching
@@LooseFab I'd say they're about on par to work on, just have different things to work on. If I were gonna get an idi it'd probably be a 6.9, same as the 7.3 just with thicker cylinder walls. Point is, the 7.3PSD and idi aren't really comparable, they're incredibly different. Sweet video!
Thats not an old truck! Now if you said a 1931 Model A flatbed, now thats an old truck
The truck needs to be worked on, sounds like it has some issues that should be addressed, people tend to blame it being because it's old so it's normal and it's not.
I was definitely one of those people, but I know better now! I've got a small list of repairs to do now thanks to you guys, I appreciate it!
Dumped a 2019 Ram and bought a 1998 f150 best move I ever made best mileage I ever got oh ya Ram was dumped at 6 months old never looked back. Hope I die before this old truck does I am 70 now
Shit, that aint old at all.
I've been getting a few replies like this, what do you consider old?
@@LooseFab ‘60s.