Thanks for the updated video Ryan! With the toss-the-rope-in-the-pack method, where is that rope in relationship to all the crap-in-the-pack? I've generally got a first aid kit, food, layers, repair stuff, water, etc in there before I start fussing with the rope, so the rope goes in last over everything else. As the day progresses I'm fishing things out from under the pile-o-rope. When I put those things back in the pack, they end up back on top. While this isn't the end of the world as I tend to keep my crap organized in bags, it does make the loose rope a mess by the end of the day and I worry about it getting snagged/tangled on stuff if I had to pull it out in a hurry. For Easton/CD on Baker, I just toss the spare rope as a small butterfly coil in the pack and let it work its way to the bottom over the day. I believe most other guides do the same, but I don't see that method talked about in videos like this one. Have you run into problems with the loose-rope-in-the-pack method where the rope gets snagged on coats/water/etc when pulling rope out? And what are your thoughts on the practice of coiling the spare rope in the pack as a tight butterfly coil for an objective like the standard walkup routes on Baker? Emmons on Rainier? Adams glacier on ... (surprise) Adams? Where would you draw the line on tight butterfly coils in the pack? (FWIW we wore coils on the Adams as there were a few places we knew we'd want to pitch out and wanted easier access) Thanks Ryan, keep making these videos they're great!
Some really good thoughts there! I usually do the same as you for things like the Easton, I have a the extra rope in a small coil and it works down to the bottom of the pack throughout the day. When I’m on more technical terrain and I have a lot more rope I’ll stack it in my pack on top of everything else. When I have to pull the rest of the rope out it can get tangled on stuff inside (the worst one being my trekking pole) but that doesn’t always happen. Basically if I’m putting a small amount of rope in my pack just for glacier travel on simple routes I’ll coil it. When I’m on technical terrain then I’ll try to have all the rope available with the stacking. When I have an overnight pack I may choose to coil the rope I’m not going to use and clip it to the outside of the pack and have the rope I need to use coiled on me. For example the fisher chimneys on shuksan, I would coil about 20m of rope and put it on my pack and have the other 40m on my body.
Thanks for the video Ryan! I have a question. I normally just tie off the coils themselves and then add a locker with a clove hitch or alpine butterfly to my belay loop. I don't really like the feeling of it being all attached to my loop. Are there any downsides to the method i am using ?
Speaking personally, if I'm going to carry coils it's because I expect to need access to the entirely of the rope (otherwise I'd throw it in my pack). If I need the whole rope, I don't want to loose the rope and thus want a closed system between myself and the rope, hence tying in at the start. If I'm bumming around on a walkup glacier I'm not carrying coils because I find them uncomfortable over long periods. I'll carry coils when there's exposure and I might not come out of them in the world's most fantastic stance, so I want the assurance that whatever I do to protect myself I won't loose the rope. My $0.02.
Ya that’s a totally fine way to hold coils too, I have a few friends who prefer to do that method. They say it usually offers a bit more freedom of movement.
Always love how in depth you go in your videos! It's the little details that matter. Thanks again Ryan!
The content earned a like, the cat secured it.
That was a great video. As usual, great explanation, and in great detail. Definitely going to copy your way of doing this 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
Great detailed content Ryan.
Thanks for the updated video Ryan!
With the toss-the-rope-in-the-pack method, where is that rope in relationship to all the crap-in-the-pack? I've generally got a first aid kit, food, layers, repair stuff, water, etc in there before I start fussing with the rope, so the rope goes in last over everything else. As the day progresses I'm fishing things out from under the pile-o-rope. When I put those things back in the pack, they end up back on top. While this isn't the end of the world as I tend to keep my crap organized in bags, it does make the loose rope a mess by the end of the day and I worry about it getting snagged/tangled on stuff if I had to pull it out in a hurry.
For Easton/CD on Baker, I just toss the spare rope as a small butterfly coil in the pack and let it work its way to the bottom over the day. I believe most other guides do the same, but I don't see that method talked about in videos like this one.
Have you run into problems with the loose-rope-in-the-pack method where the rope gets snagged on coats/water/etc when pulling rope out?
And what are your thoughts on the practice of coiling the spare rope in the pack as a tight butterfly coil for an objective like the standard walkup routes on Baker? Emmons on Rainier? Adams glacier on ... (surprise) Adams? Where would you draw the line on tight butterfly coils in the pack? (FWIW we wore coils on the Adams as there were a few places we knew we'd want to pitch out and wanted easier access)
Thanks Ryan, keep making these videos they're great!
Some really good thoughts there! I usually do the same as you for things like the Easton, I have a the extra rope in a small coil and it works down to the bottom of the pack throughout the day. When I’m on more technical terrain and I have a lot more rope I’ll stack it in my pack on top of everything else.
When I have to pull the rest of the rope out it can get tangled on stuff inside (the worst one being my trekking pole) but that doesn’t always happen.
Basically if I’m putting a small amount of rope in my pack just for glacier travel on simple routes I’ll coil it. When I’m on technical terrain then I’ll try to have all the rope available with the stacking. When I have an overnight pack I may choose to coil the rope I’m not going to use and clip it to the outside of the pack and have the rope I need to use coiled on me. For example the fisher chimneys on shuksan, I would coil about 20m of rope and put it on my pack and have the other 40m on my body.
Use a light rope bag in your pack is you are concerned about the state of the rope inside it.
Thank you
Thanks for the video Ryan! I have a question. I normally just tie off the coils themselves and then add a locker with a clove hitch or alpine butterfly to my belay loop. I don't really like the feeling of it being all attached to my loop. Are there any downsides to the method i am using ?
Speaking personally, if I'm going to carry coils it's because I expect to need access to the entirely of the rope (otherwise I'd throw it in my pack). If I need the whole rope, I don't want to loose the rope and thus want a closed system between myself and the rope, hence tying in at the start. If I'm bumming around on a walkup glacier I'm not carrying coils because I find them uncomfortable over long periods. I'll carry coils when there's exposure and I might not come out of them in the world's most fantastic stance, so I want the assurance that whatever I do to protect myself I won't loose the rope. My $0.02.
Ya that’s a totally fine way to hold coils too, I have a few friends who prefer to do that method. They say it usually offers a bit more freedom of movement.