Thank you! I was so excited last night midway through making a pepper mill. This morning I discovered my top and bottom were off center. So deflating. Started a new blank this morning following the video instructions step by step and had tremendous success. Again, thank you, you are a tremendous presenter.
Thanks very much for the inspiration and information. All steps were very understandable. A perfect presentation. I guess I'll need to make one or three.
Just caught this vid. Very nice turn. I too make the perfect mill. lol I've made north of a couple hundred mills and are my biggest money maker at shows. I have paid for all my equipment just on mills. Tip, I used to use paper towels for jamming also but Now I use a layer, or two, of painters tape on the tenon. Works great. Cheers, Lee
great presentation . been surfing the web au and anywhere for those morse mt2? for 3/8 or 10 shank bits cant find them anywhere any help any where will help thats ....pat.....pat
I've made several CrushGrind peppermills over the years, and have regularly used one of those for about 5 years. I was watching Brendan Stemp at the time. I'm sure there are several other fine mechanisms out there. Good presentation!
Hello, I think this is the best demonstration of how to make pepper mills that I have found on the net. Thank you very much for that. Of course, that's exactly how I want to do it now. Unfortunately, I don't know the tool that holds the drill at time index 28:38 / 1:31:07 and I can't find it on the internet. Can anyone help me with a link? Thank you in advance. Klaus
Thank you for your comments Klaus. The adapter that I'm using is a "Famag #2 Morse Taper for 10mm Hex Shank Forstner Bits", item # 101-968. The only place in the US that sells it (that I've found) is www.infinitytools.com. Pat
By far the most thorough and thoughtful Peppermill presentation that I have seen. One of the few videos that I have watched multiple times. How do you deal with finishing the exposed end grain on the top, especially with a flat top and/or grain like Curly Maple? Also, do you use Danish Oil and then Wipe On Poly?
Thank you very much! End grain on the top isn't really that much of a problem for me. I'll power sand up to 1000 grit (use a light touch) and then use the 1000 grit to hand sand with the grain. Yes, one or two coats of Danish Oil and then 1 or 2 coats of WOP on top of the Danish Oil if you want. Or I'll just use 4-5 coats of Danish Oil until I get the sheen I want. Or you could just use WOP by itself, but I like using Danish Oil to start as I think the oil pops the figure a bit better than straight poly.
thanks for all of the detailed work that is missing from other videos. one extra step that i will do sometimes, especially with a very highly figured wood, is to not turn the spigot at all. in it's place i will drill the bottom of the cap at 1 1/8 and insert a matching scrap "dowel" and turn it to fit into the 1 1/16" hole in the body.
Thanks for your comment. Yes I do the same thing on figured wood if I don't want to lose grain match, or when I want to make a certain size mill (say 8") and my piece of wood is only 8".
I'm looking for something other than the rubber expanding jam chucks. What are the long nose jaws attached to the chuck you refer to at 1:11? I can't tell from the video, it looks like they are wood? And would they work for a 1-1/16 hole?
Those are Vicmarc Extended Dovetail jaws (Mfg Part# V00651) with masking tape wrapped around them. The masking tape gives a little bit of cushion and keeps the jaws from making a black mark in the 1-5/8" hole (that I've sanded up to 1000 grit!). The extended dovetail jaws work great for expanding into the 1-5/8" hole, but are too big for the 1-1/16" hole. For that I use the Vicmarc 25mm Pin Jaws (Mfg Part# V00650).
Pat Is there anyway I can get the plans for your pepper grinder? That you were holding up in the video. I love the shape but I am not that good at designing deeply appreciate it. Thank you Tom
Thanks for your question, I meant to talk about them more in the demo but was pressed for time and forgot. They are the Vicmarc 74mm Shark Jaws, I got them from Woodworkers Emporium (www.woodworkersemporium.com/Vicmarc_V00655/), but Packard Woodworks also sells them (www.packardwoodworks.com/118122.html). When I turn the peppermill head around to finish drilling the hole through the top, the shark jaws will grip the outside diameter of the head. But more importantly the longer jaws ensure the spigot is not touched. If using standard jaws the spigot could bottom out against the jaws or come in contact with the inner part of the jaws and get damaged. I've seen other people grab the spigot in their jaws to finish drilling, you never want to do that!
No, because I think most mills look better with a shorter top than what the golden mean dictates. It depends on the shape of the mill which is why it's important to sketch out your design before starting. For example a typical 10" mill may have an 8" body and 2" top. Using Golden mean the same 10" mill would have a 6.2" body and 3.8" top. I did make a 10" mill with the same shape as in the demo. It had a 6.5" body and 3.5" top, and it looks OK with the long flowing curve, but it's kind of disappointing that a mill that size won't hold any more pepper with such a short body.
Sure, you can use a Bedan for the spigot. The Bedan works the same as the Beading/Parting tool except the beading/parting tool is negative rake. The reason I use a skew is the point of the skew is easier to get into the corner.
I don't use it because it's not very durable and you can't build up the sheen like other finishes. For something that is going to be handled every day I want more protection than Walnut Oil gives, and I like some shine as well. It will work but there are better finishes for mills such as Danish Oil or Wipe on Poly.
Yes a ceramic kit like the Crushgrind can be used for salt or pepper. Chef Specialties (what I use) sells a stainless steel for pepper only, and a ceramic for salt. I've never tried to use their ceramic with pepper.
I use mostly American hardwoods and generally avoid exotics or other woods that might be toxic or are high on the irritant list. I heard of a guy that used a plastic sleeve/tube to line a peppermill when he made it out of a Banksia Pod because of the holes in the pod. I've never heard of using PVC but that sounds like a pretty thick liner and I'm not sure how I feel about pepper and PVC from a sanitary point. If it works for them that's great though. I seal the inside with Shellac and if there is any question about wood toxicity I would use a different wood.
Thank you! I was so excited last night midway through making a pepper mill. This morning I discovered my top and bottom were off center. So deflating. Started a new blank this morning following the video instructions step by step and had tremendous success. Again, thank you, you are a tremendous presenter.
Thank you! I'm glad I could help.
Thanks very much for the inspiration and information. All steps were very understandable. A perfect presentation. I guess I'll need to make one or three.
This is the best presentation on the turning of a pepper mill I have seen. You have added so much detail. Thanks so much!
Thank you very much!
That was a perfect video. Short to the point and effective. Thank you.
What a great unassuming and funny expert. I am about to turn my first pepper mill and really enjoyed the demo. It really was perfect.
Thank you very much!
Great presentation, I’ve actually taken notes and will make up a procedure as I’m new to making peppermills.Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Just caught this vid. Very nice turn. I too make the perfect mill. lol I've made north of a couple hundred mills and are my biggest money maker at shows. I have paid for all my equipment just on mills. Tip, I used to use paper towels for jamming also but Now I use a layer, or two, of painters tape
on the tenon. Works great.
Cheers,
Lee
Really enjoyed your video. Best I have found. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
Great presentation with much useful information. A pleasure to watch.
great presentation . been surfing the web au and anywhere for those morse mt2? for 3/8 or 10 shank bits cant find them anywhere any help any where will help thats ....pat.....pat
I've made several CrushGrind peppermills over the years, and have regularly used one of those for about 5 years. I was watching Brendan Stemp at the time. I'm sure there are several other fine mechanisms out there. Good presentation!
Clarification - at the 26:22 mark I said nobody makes a 1-1/16" bit. I meant nobody makes a 1-1/16" carbide bit.
Thank you!
Hello, I think this is the best demonstration of how to make pepper mills that I have found on the net.
Thank you very much for that. Of course, that's exactly how I want to do it now.
Unfortunately, I don't know the tool that holds the drill at time index 28:38 / 1:31:07 and I can't find it on the internet. Can anyone help me with a link? Thank you in advance.
Klaus
Thank you for your comments Klaus. The adapter that I'm using is a "Famag #2 Morse Taper for 10mm Hex Shank Forstner Bits", item # 101-968. The only place in the US that sells it (that I've found) is www.infinitytools.com. Pat
By far the most thorough and thoughtful Peppermill presentation that I have seen. One of the few videos that I have watched multiple times. How do you deal with finishing the exposed end grain on the top, especially with a flat top and/or grain like Curly Maple? Also, do you use Danish Oil and then Wipe On Poly?
Thank you very much! End grain on the top isn't really that much of a problem for me. I'll power sand up to 1000 grit (use a light touch) and then use the 1000 grit to hand sand with the grain. Yes, one or two coats of Danish Oil and then 1 or 2 coats of WOP on top of the Danish Oil if you want. Or I'll just use 4-5 coats of Danish Oil until I get the sheen I want. Or you could just use WOP by itself, but I like using Danish Oil to start as I think the oil pops the figure a bit better than straight poly.
thanks for all of the detailed work that is missing from other videos. one extra step that i will do sometimes, especially with a very highly figured wood, is to not turn the spigot at all. in it's place i will drill the bottom of the cap at 1 1/8 and insert a matching scrap "dowel" and turn it to fit into the 1 1/16" hole in the body.
Thanks for your comment. Yes I do the same thing on figured wood if I don't want to lose grain match, or when I want to make a certain size mill (say 8") and my piece of wood is only 8".
I'm looking for something other than the rubber expanding jam chucks. What are the long nose jaws attached to the chuck you refer to at 1:11? I can't tell from the video, it looks like they are wood? And would they work for a 1-1/16 hole?
Those are Vicmarc Extended Dovetail jaws (Mfg Part# V00651) with masking tape wrapped around them. The masking tape gives a little bit of cushion and keeps the jaws from making a black mark in the 1-5/8" hole (that I've sanded up to 1000 grit!). The extended dovetail jaws work great for expanding into the 1-5/8" hole, but are too big for the 1-1/16" hole. For that I use the Vicmarc 25mm Pin Jaws (Mfg Part# V00650).
Excellent training video.
Very good demonstration . Thank you! As far as using wipe on poly, do you use oil based or water based poly?
I use Minwax wipe on poly which is oil based. I tried Watco poly but like Minwax better. Thanks!
Pat
Is there anyway I can get the plans for your pepper grinder? That you were holding up in the video. I love the shape but I am not that good at designing deeply appreciate it.
Thank you
Tom
Sorry for the delay, I've been having troubles with my computer. Please contact me at pscott99@comcast.net and I'd be happy to send you the design
Thanks for a very good demo. What are the long nose jaws you are using? In the video they look like wood.
Thanks for your question, I meant to talk about them more in the demo but was pressed for time and forgot. They are the Vicmarc 74mm Shark Jaws, I got them from Woodworkers Emporium (www.woodworkersemporium.com/Vicmarc_V00655/), but Packard Woodworks also sells them (www.packardwoodworks.com/118122.html).
When I turn the peppermill head around to finish drilling the hole through the top, the shark jaws will grip the outside diameter of the head. But more importantly the longer jaws ensure the spigot is not touched. If using standard jaws the spigot could bottom out against the jaws or come in contact with the inner part of the jaws and get damaged. I've seen other people grab the spigot in their jaws to finish drilling, you never want to do that!
Outstanding! Very, very good job! 😎
For step one do you rely on the golden mean as a design parameter ?
No, because I think most mills look better with a shorter top than what the golden mean dictates. It depends on the shape of the mill which is why it's important to sketch out your design before starting. For example a typical 10" mill may have an 8" body and 2" top. Using Golden mean the same 10" mill would have a 6.2" body and 3.8" top.
I did make a 10" mill with the same shape as in the demo. It had a 6.5" body and 3.5" top, and it looks OK with the long flowing curve, but it's kind of disappointing that a mill that size won't hold any more pepper with such a short body.
Is the Bedan tool a good option for turning the spicket?
Sure, you can use a Bedan for the spigot. The Bedan works the same as the Beading/Parting tool except the beading/parting tool is negative rake. The reason I use a skew is the point of the skew is easier to get into the corner.
Why not walnut oil?
I don't use it because it's not very durable and you can't build up the sheen like other finishes. For something that is going to be handled every day I want more protection than Walnut Oil gives, and I like some shine as well. It will work but there are better finishes for mills such as Danish Oil or Wipe on Poly.
Can a ceramic salt grinder kit be used for pepper? If not is there a universal kit suitable for both salt and pepper?
Yes a ceramic kit like the Crushgrind can be used for salt or pepper. Chef Specialties (what I use) sells a stainless steel for pepper only, and a ceramic for salt. I've never tried to use their ceramic with pepper.
where do I send my ugly pepper mill photo to?
Guys around here, line exotics with pvc tubing, what is your feeling on that?
I use mostly American hardwoods and generally avoid exotics or other woods that might be toxic or are high on the irritant list. I heard of a guy that used a plastic sleeve/tube to line a peppermill when he made it out of a Banksia Pod because of the holes in the pod. I've never heard of using PVC but that sounds like a pretty thick liner and I'm not sure how I feel about pepper and PVC from a sanitary point. If it works for them that's great though. I seal the inside with Shellac and if there is any question about wood toxicity I would use a different wood.