Good to see more folks getting into solar 😊. A few thoughts - in AS!3 I' suggest not dropping your sensitivity so low. Select a value that puts alignment points over yiur proms, but you dont want or need them over the whole black sky. This risks introducing artefacts where there is no useful data. In PS, a curves adjustment layer, or the curve tab in camera raw filter is really useful to control the background sky. Also, Firecapture is an alternative capture program you may want to look at. It is widely used by top imagers and is arguably better than SC 😊
What I like to do is use the brightness adjustment in the top menu. Brighten the image so you can see the proms, then manually add additional alignment points just around the proms, and then return the brightness to normal. Works great.
Hi Ollie, Nice tutorial! Note that the processing selection box in ImPPG comes in handy when you want to fine-tune L-R deconvolution's sigma. For small-ish selection sizes the image changes will be visible in real time.
23:43 this is really nice and sharp. I unfortunately often have uniformity issues with my Quark; seems to be getting worse over time. Flats are tricky in full disc and I may buy a flatcap as they diffuse much more than our plastic transparent bags (wasn't really successful with that technique). Sometimes, do you feel like you get less contrast from your Quark ? Eg when it's warmer ?
Great Video Ollie. Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the mount controller in SharpCap rather than bringing up the EQMOD panel? And have you used the seeing monitor in SharpCap? You can set it to only take images above a certain seeing level.
Hey Thanks Neil. I've been having a weird issue when controlling my mount thru SharpCap in that it continues moving after I press the buttons. I can't figure out why, do let me know if you have any ideas. The seeing monitor I need to try out thanks for that tip I haven't used yet. Cheers Neil 👍
Hi, the Quark Daystar Filter arrived today. Since I use a telescope like yours (102 mm f7), I wanted to know if you fit a UV/IR filter between the telescope and the Daystar and how long your photographic sessions last. I wouldn't want to destroy the Daystar on first use. Thank you very much
Hey there yes I use a 2 inch UV/IR cut filter at the front of my imaging train. In terms of length of sessions normally so far probably around 2- 3 hours. Cheers.
Nice work! I thought that flats should be taken at the same focus as the lights. Or is the change to the focus you're making so small that it doesn't matter?
For solar work here you can change focus to blur the image, basically instead of using a diffuser. You can of course leave your focus and just use a clear bag or something at the front to diffuse the light.
A good tutorial - I notice you have the same issue I have (Quark on 102 @f11), and that's with the glare that shows in the dark space around the proms, I find it impossible to remove that glare and it's annoying!
Gday Josh no I don't use a flattener with this in fact I'm pretty sure I've read somewhere you shouldn't use a flattener/ reducer in your imaging train with a Quark although I could be wrong.
At 21:27 you suddenly skipped. The photo went from blah to stunning. You didn't show us how you did that! That's a huge difference in photo quality from one second to the next.
I have to say for a newbie, you jump too far into fast. It would be nice if you had a outliner around your cursor. So we could see where you were clicking and what you were doing. You did your best. It probably helps those that have some experience, but to those of us that are brand new, we're lost
Thanks but It's always hard to pitch these so everyone understands everything. I'd recommend mixing and matching a few sources which is how I've learned over the years.
Nice work Ollie it's great to see our nearest star getting some attention
Cheers Tony yes I'm enjoying this bright new target...one video and lots of detail 😀
Good to see more folks getting into solar 😊. A few thoughts - in AS!3 I' suggest not dropping your sensitivity so low. Select a value that puts alignment points over yiur proms, but you dont want or need them over the whole black sky. This risks introducing artefacts where there is no useful data. In PS, a curves adjustment layer, or the curve tab in camera raw filter is really useful to control the background sky. Also, Firecapture is an alternative capture program you may want to look at. It is widely used by top imagers and is arguably better than SC 😊
Thanks Kev for the tips. 👍
What I like to do is use the brightness adjustment in the top menu. Brighten the image so you can see the proms, then manually add additional alignment points just around the proms, and then return the brightness to normal. Works great.
@johndwyer1095 I'll remember this one John and give it a go next time.
Cheers 👍
Getting some damn impressive images with that setup Ollie.
It's a cool little tool this Quark just need to see if I can get some better seeing.
Oh man, that shot is awesome!
Hey Cheers James
Wow Ollie, that final shot mate is awesome 👍 Nicely done mate! I want to get into solar now🤦♂️
Oh no please don't tell the wife it was me 🫤!!
WOW Ollie, Next level stuff!! that looks fantastic!@
Cheers Jason these close ups look pretty cool
Nice job Ollie that turned out really nice
Thanks mate, still learning with this solar stuff.
Hi Ollie,
Nice tutorial! Note that the processing selection box in ImPPG comes in handy when you want to fine-tune L-R deconvolution's sigma. For small-ish selection sizes the image changes will be visible in real time.
Thanks for the tips pal 👍
Ollie Dundee! Awesome image!
Lol 😂 cheers Nik
23:43 this is really nice and sharp. I unfortunately often have uniformity issues with my Quark; seems to be getting worse over time. Flats are tricky in full disc and I may buy a flatcap as they diffuse much more than our plastic transparent bags (wasn't really successful with that technique).
Sometimes, do you feel like you get less contrast from your Quark ? Eg when it's warmer ?
I think for the most part for me I just struggle getting really good seeing. Like you though I've also considered a proper flat panel.
Great Video Ollie. Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the mount controller in SharpCap rather than bringing up the EQMOD panel? And have you used the seeing monitor in SharpCap? You can set it to only take images above a certain seeing level.
Hey Thanks Neil. I've been having a weird issue when controlling my mount thru SharpCap in that it continues moving after I press the buttons. I can't figure out why, do let me know if you have any ideas. The seeing monitor I need to try out thanks for that tip I haven't used yet. Cheers Neil 👍
Hi, the Quark Daystar Filter arrived today. Since I use a telescope like yours (102 mm f7), I wanted to know if you fit a UV/IR filter between the telescope and the Daystar and how long your photographic sessions last. I wouldn't want to destroy the Daystar on first use. Thank you very much
Hey there yes I use a 2 inch UV/IR cut filter at the front of my imaging train. In terms of length of sessions normally so far probably around 2- 3 hours.
Cheers.
Nice work! I thought that flats should be taken at the same focus as the lights. Or is the change to the focus you're making so small that it doesn't matter?
For solar work here you can change focus to blur the image, basically instead of using a diffuser. You can of course leave your focus and just use a clear bag or something at the front to diffuse the light.
A good tutorial - I notice you have the same issue I have (Quark on 102 @f11), and that's with the glare that shows in the dark space around the proms, I find it impossible to remove that glare and it's annoying!
You're right Geoff it's pretty tricky to handle that glare
Try dropping the histogram a touch, or stretch less
Do you use a field flattener for solar imaging?
Gday Josh no I don't use a flattener with this in fact I'm pretty sure I've read somewhere you shouldn't use a flattener/ reducer in your imaging train with a Quark although I could be wrong.
OHHHHHH, 30 degrees Celsius!
👏👏👏
At 21:27 you suddenly skipped. The photo went from blah to stunning. You didn't show us how you did that! That's a huge difference in photo quality from one second to the next.
I have to say for a newbie, you jump too far into fast. It would be nice if you had a outliner around your cursor. So we could see where you were clicking and what you were doing. You did your best. It probably helps those that have some experience, but to those of us that are brand new, we're lost
Thanks but It's always hard to pitch these so everyone understands everything. I'd recommend mixing and matching a few sources which is how I've learned over the years.