The more I am learning about how the instrument is made, the more I understand how many factors are involved in making a good sound. It’s really an hard instrument to work with. But I love it.
Got this tip from Chuck Traeger's books. Also - anyone who is using a solid wire/coat hangar tailpiece wire, replace it with the cable wire. The whole bass needs to vibrate and the solid wires inhibit the tailpiece from vibrating as it should.
This proved pretty useful - I'd been puzzling for a while over why my bass was darker and thumpier than I remembered it being when it last had setup work done. Soundpost position looked fine, bridge was in place, strings were played-in but not dead Spiros, and the guy who last did my setup is retired now. But my tailpiece cord was spaced quite wide over the saddle, and shifting it back to the same spacing as the tailpiece holes has brought back that definition and sweetness I remembered.
Thanks so much!1 I have the tone back!!!!! I had some repair work done on my bass, after getting it back, it was dull, .i could not figure it out, i did what you said, however the wide setting got it back to normal. Thanks so much!!!!!!”!”!”!”!”!!!!”
This worked for me! After a string change I thought i had made a big mistake but no, the tailgut was off kilter. Bass sounds better than ever after narrowing the gap. People often discuss sound post position as a way of dialing in your sound, but i found this more effective and predictable for the average bassist.
I can't find a video on how to install a tailgut, sorry, but I'm new to this and I have no idea how to put a new one. The double bass I got had none, it was non-functional. Thanks!
Howdy Eric - just wanted to (a) thank you guys for making these vids - I love them all and find them really useful and informative. If I lived in the states i'd definitely buy one of your basses. I was also hoping you could help me understand what tonal or other differences (if any) changing the length of the tail wire makes. Mine has the adjustable nut behind the tailpiece, and I shortened it a little when I first bought my bass (bringing the tailpiece closer to the saddle), but didn't really know what I was doing, and can't seem to recall what difference it made. Also wondering if the myth about tuning the string end lengths to 6ths (or some other interval) is true or not, and whether it really matters that much.
Hello, I wanted to replace my bridge so after I adjusted the new one and put everything back together, and I had the problem you describe. The instrument was not completely dead but moribond, and also the balance of volume string to string was affected, some strings more lethargic than others. After watching the video I checked the tailpiece wire and it was completely off and very spread. I took the opportunity to try with the two wires very close to each other and the bass sounds even better, more responsive, than before. Thanks for the tip.
I've come across several nice older German violins that have the beginning of a crack right at the edge where the saddle and the top of the violin meet. What's going on with the saddle ? Was the saddle fitted too tightly or did the glue on the bottom of the saddle give way and the saddle slipped or maybe is it that coefficient of expansion being different between the spruce and the ebony is causing these cracks is there a solution to keep it from happening again after the repair.
I have a question. I buy a double bass as a 3/4 size, it turns out to be a 4/4 when I buy it, I didn't feel any difference between it and the one I use. My Luthier says he can make the distances shorter by adding a fake nut and moving the bridge. Is there any way to make the distances shorter without adding a fake nut?
I've been looking for info about how different materials that tail gut/wire can be made, such as stainless steel, nylon, carbon fiber etc, will effect the double bass tone, but I haven't found much on the subject. I'm thinking of replacing my nylon to a steel wire, mainly (touch wood) because it will last longer before failing. Do have any insight on this matter? cheers
Two thoughts come to mind. 1) stability: Nylon will stretch...so won't HMWPE and other synthetic materials (and they can break). Steel won't do any of those things (or at least not at the tension we have with a DB). Combine that stretch with its ability to rock or twist, which brings us to... 2) dampening: If you limit the tailpiece from rocking or twisting, you're dampening it. There are so many factors at play here, like strings, instrument geometries, playing style, etc that there are no absolutes. Play with it and make changes...and develop opinions based on those changes. And...change only one thing at a time...that way if you dont like it, you can easily dial it back.
The more I am learning about how the instrument is made, the more I understand how many factors are involved in making a good sound. It’s really an hard instrument to work with. But I love it.
Got this tip from Chuck Traeger's books. Also - anyone who is using a solid wire/coat hangar tailpiece wire, replace it with the cable wire. The whole bass needs to vibrate and the solid wires inhibit the tailpiece from vibrating as it should.
Thanx for the tip. I always change my strings one at a time, E then G, then A , D. Keeps the tension on, also doesn’t risk moving the “sound post”.
This proved pretty useful - I'd been puzzling for a while over why my bass was darker and thumpier than I remembered it being when it last had setup work done. Soundpost position looked fine, bridge was in place, strings were played-in but not dead Spiros, and the guy who last did my setup is retired now. But my tailpiece cord was spaced quite wide over the saddle, and shifting it back to the same spacing as the tailpiece holes has brought back that definition and sweetness I remembered.
Valuable information. A good luthier knows things that can be extremely valuable to a player. Thanks for the tips.
This really does make a difference. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks so much!1 I have the tone back!!!!! I had some repair work done on my bass, after getting it back, it was dull, .i could not figure it out, i did what you said, however the wide setting got it back to normal. Thanks so much!!!!!!”!”!”!”!”!!!!”
This worked for me! After a string change I thought i had made a big mistake but no, the tailgut was off kilter. Bass sounds better than ever after narrowing the gap. People often discuss sound post position as a way of dialing in your sound, but i found this more effective and predictable for the average bassist.
Interesting tip. You guys are first rate!
Thanks for the tip!
I can't find a video on how to install a tailgut, sorry, but I'm new to this and I have no idea how to put a new one. The double bass I got had none, it was non-functional. Thanks!
This was really useful, and actually helped me isolate a nasty buzz I was getting in the tailpiece when thumping the open A really hard.
Beautiful info.. thx!
Howdy Eric - just wanted to (a) thank you guys for making these vids - I love them all and find them really useful and informative. If I lived in the states i'd definitely buy one of your basses.
I was also hoping you could help me understand what tonal or other differences (if any) changing the length of the tail wire makes. Mine has the adjustable nut behind the tailpiece, and I shortened it a little when I first bought my bass (bringing the tailpiece closer to the saddle), but didn't really know what I was doing, and can't seem to recall what difference it made. Also wondering if the myth about tuning the string end lengths to 6ths (or some other interval) is true or not, and whether it really matters that much.
Thank you
Will this affect the action in anyway way if the tailpiece isn't on properly?
What is the device that is used to keep the cable from slipping?
Eric, I remember this thread you talked about in the double bass luthier group. It worked for me!
Hello,
I wanted to replace my bridge so after I adjusted the new one and put everything back together, and I had the problem you describe. The instrument was not completely dead but moribond, and also the balance of volume string to string was affected, some strings more lethargic than others. After watching the video I checked the tailpiece wire and it was completely off and very spread. I took the opportunity to try with the two wires very close to each other and the bass sounds even better, more responsive, than before. Thanks for the tip.
Happy this helped you out Ariel!
But what distance from bridge to tailpiece is the best?
Hogy a csodaba lehet hivni a nagybogot, basszus gitarnak??
I've come across several nice older German violins that have the beginning of a crack right at the edge where the saddle and the top of the violin meet. What's going on with the saddle ? Was the saddle fitted too tightly or did the glue on the bottom of the saddle give way and the saddle slipped or maybe is it that coefficient of expansion being different between the spruce and the ebony is causing these cracks is there a solution to keep it from happening again after the repair.
How do I know if my cable is flexible tailgut or another sort?
Eric witch is better, cable or solid wire on the tail peace ? Thanks
My entire endpin assembly works its way out of the instrument block over time. Is there a good fix?
I have a question. I buy a double bass as a 3/4 size, it turns out to be a 4/4 when I buy it, I didn't feel any difference between it and the one I use. My Luthier says he can make the distances shorter by adding a fake nut and moving the bridge. Is there any way to make the distances shorter without adding a fake nut?
I've been looking for info about how different materials that tail gut/wire can be made, such as stainless steel, nylon, carbon fiber etc, will effect the double bass tone, but I haven't found much on the subject. I'm thinking of replacing my nylon to a steel wire, mainly (touch wood) because it will last longer before failing. Do have any insight on this matter? cheers
Two thoughts come to mind.
1) stability: Nylon will stretch...so won't HMWPE and other synthetic materials (and they can break). Steel won't do any of those things (or at least not at the tension we have with a DB). Combine that stretch with its ability to rock or twist, which brings us to...
2) dampening: If you limit the tailpiece from rocking or twisting, you're dampening it.
There are so many factors at play here, like strings, instrument geometries, playing style, etc that there are no absolutes. Play with it and make changes...and develop opinions based on those changes. And...change only one thing at a time...that way if you dont like it, you can easily dial it back.