The commercial plant I looked at had a cast iron ball mill. They used 4" cast iron cannon balls. They had a vacuum on one end sucking out the dust. The other end had an airlock with a scale. They only put lump charcoal and brimstone rock. They put them in at the correct ratio and only used the fine dust. The potassium was ground wet then the 2 were mixed and pressed into pucks. Dried with hot air. Then ground with 2 cast iron wheels. A vacuum sucked the screened product to a steam and graphite tumbler. Then off to sorting and canning.
I'm On IT! Already suspected such in the HFT mill and am on my 3rd revision ball mill and Media, I know it is "Bad" (dirty and slow) to use pulled jacketed bullets even if the do not spark and are reasonably safe or avalible? Keep your Smoke Poles SMOKING!! Keep Chasing the Dragon!
The most obvious reason for the milling with glass marbles taking longer is the weight of the marbles, if you replace those with steel ball bearings you will get a much quicker result, also less, (no), contamination from the lead as a bonus! Chris B.
At the end of the, people have different ideas about what is best or what is the most safe. That is the reason I advocate to make in small batches and bill in a safe place outside. Thanks for watching!
I have used a cleaned out mayonnaise jar in place of the cannister that comes with the ball mill....used lead balls for medium and have been happy with the results, Next 'tweek' is to compress the powder into pucks!
Another great video! Thanks much. I note in Dave Fellhoelter's comment he mentions the use of jacketed bullets for tumbling media. Does anyone use them? I have a full box of unused 230 grain, .452 FMJ projectiles left over from my handgun reloading days that have been sitting in the closet for years. They are the copper electroplated type with no exposed lead. I'd be interested in anyone's thoughts on using them.
Another great and informative video,. I'm so glad I found your channel! Love all your videos. Pyrodex and commercial black powder was way too expensive to shoot 2oz per shot. I make your homemade powder for a tenth the price. Thank you very much.
Lol hey brother, I'm glad the info helped some!! I love the solution you came up with for the canisters!! Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see future developments in your powder!
Good idea. I used marbles to grind a batch of powder and after the first batch I went back to lead balls. Because the marbles all came out frosted looking from grinding against each other. I'm betting that this left a fine dust of glass sand imbedded in the powder. I really don't want my rifling sanded away. So I didn't shoot that batch at all..
Thanks for another great video. Question for you - I noticed that when you shot, there was more burning powder dropping out of the muzzle (sparks) than I remember seeing normally. You said it was burning cooler, but if you are getting powder igniting after the bullet has already left the muzzle, that’s a drop in efficiency, is it not? Maybe I am just now noticing it and an totally off the mark, but I thought it was worth bringing up. Might be interesting to see how it chrono’s compared to the “unclean” (heathen? 😂) powder…
Hey Dan, all patches have zero holes burn through so, that most certainly means cooler burning. As to sparks, my powder always shoots some spark out. You most likely could see it better as I was shooting in heavy tree cover this time. Thanks for watching!
Hey, was just looking at your video about the black stuff in the mill . Try powder coating the lead balls before you use it. By the way liked the video.
I'd like to agree with the rubber issue. You are way over loaded though, by the amount of burning/un-burnt power coming out of the barrel front. Yes, powder amounts do change with seasons. But, more so with Humidity contributing to the fouling issues of any BP firing arm...Over loading does significantly reduce all around performance with accuracy and ignition/fouling. For my arms, what burns I get in the 4 seasons area I live in is/are different from season to season.. What works in one season does not work in the others three seasons. Hence along comes the fouling with it...Using 1000 + really, really reduces the fouling experience
Thanks for watching. Yes Sir, your right, all kinds of things can effect fouling and accuracy. However, this is really a medium load for this gun. At 55 gr, it is far from being over loaded for a 45 cal. She shoots spot on with this load at 25-75 yards.
When you make your Charcoal do you remove the bark from the wood before Char-coaling it?. The reason i ask is i read something at school years ago about one of the powder manufacturers for the british navy being dropped because it was found they were not removing the bark from the wood before turning it into charcoal and the resulting powder made with it was fouling the marines muskets in half the number of shots it normally would
My only concern with using lead balls to mill was increased exposure to fine particulate lead in the powder charges now being inhaled post firing. Lead exposure is highly toxic.
Hey warren, yes that is why I always wash my hands well after milling or shooting. As to dust blow back, many different types of mixing media can be used if it is a concern.
I have been using marbles for a while, and recently I have noticed glass shards in my powder. Maybe they break down over time, not sure. One thing that worries me about using metal or PVC lining in my mill, is static electricity. Could that be a problem, or am I just being paranoid. Also I have been considering using the CIA method. Has anyone compared there two methods, is there a difference?
I am switching to steel Ball bearings for that and other reasons. I would not worry to much about a pvc mill but then again, I always keep the amount I'm making very small just in case.
I always do mine Out SIDE in a safe area just to be on the safer side. I mill most ingrediants as one's or two's intill final blend milling. Maybe KNO3 and Sulfer togater in correct ratio for a (7.5 : 01), carbon alone, or sulfer carbon, or carbon KNO3 then measure and final mill all 3 togather. but I do lead or ceramics media.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
How about making the mill chambers out of ABS pipe or some thing else?
Thank you for sharing all this valuable knowledge.
Thank you!
Always a pleasure to watch your videos,very informative.
Thank you!
The commercial plant I looked at had a cast iron ball mill. They used 4" cast iron cannon balls. They had a vacuum on one end sucking out the dust. The other end had an airlock with a scale. They only put lump charcoal and brimstone rock. They put them in at the correct ratio and only used the fine dust.
The potassium was ground wet then the 2 were mixed and pressed into pucks. Dried with hot air. Then ground with 2 cast iron wheels. A vacuum sucked the screened product to a steam and graphite tumbler. Then off to sorting and canning.
Thanks for sharing!
That's great news! Thank you for updating us. Thanks also for the advice from God's Word.
Thank you! Your most welcome!
I'm On IT! Already suspected such in the HFT mill and am on my 3rd revision ball mill and Media, I know it is "Bad" (dirty and slow) to use pulled jacketed bullets even if the do not spark and are reasonably safe or avalible?
Keep your Smoke Poles SMOKING!!
Keep Chasing the Dragon!
Thanks Dave! I'm finding the different ways of making and milling are endless.
More well thought out testing and conclusions without the sensationalism so many seem inclined to include Thank you.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
The most obvious reason for the milling with glass marbles taking longer is the weight of the marbles, if you replace those with steel ball bearings you will get a much quicker result, also less, (no), contamination from the lead as a bonus! Chris B.
I was curious how one prevents sparking when using steel, metal to metal can produce sparks (voltages).
At the end of the, people have different ideas about what is best or what is the most safe. That is the reason I advocate to make in small batches and bill in a safe place outside. Thanks for watching!
The possibility of sparks is very high with steel balls even stainless steel.
Mr Hoffman, Thank you! Time well spent.
Thank you!
OK now metal chamber with lead balls to see if it was the lead or the rubber
I have used a cleaned out mayonnaise jar in place of the cannister that comes with the ball mill....used lead balls for medium and have been happy with the results, Next 'tweek' is to compress the powder into pucks!
Another great video! Thanks much.
I note in Dave Fellhoelter's comment he mentions the use of jacketed bullets for tumbling media. Does anyone use them?
I have a full box of unused 230 grain, .452 FMJ projectiles left over from my handgun reloading days that have been sitting in the closet for years. They are the copper electroplated type with no exposed lead.
I'd be interested in anyone's thoughts on using them.
Pure copper bullets may be even better.
Not as heavy makes for longer milling times. But the harder material might partially negate that problem
Another great and informative video,. I'm so glad I found your channel! Love all your videos. Pyrodex and commercial black powder was way too expensive to shoot 2oz per shot. I make your homemade powder for a tenth the price. Thank you very much.
Thanks so much!
Ill try your lining suggestion.
Trying to swab that last bit of fouling out in my new Kibler is absolutely frustrating.
Thanks!
Lol hey brother, I'm glad the info helped some!! I love the solution you came up with for the canisters!! Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see future developments in your powder!
Thanks a bunch! Really helped!
@@HoffmanReproductions anytime sir!
Good video, thanks for information.
Thank you!
Another quality production. Thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing Knowledge, This is what the internet was intended for.
Your most welcome. Thank you!
Very interesting!
Thanks Jake!
Good idea.
I used marbles to grind a batch of powder and after the first batch I went back to lead balls. Because the marbles all came out frosted looking from grinding against each other. I'm betting that this left a fine dust of glass sand imbedded in the powder. I really don't want my rifling sanded away. So I didn't shoot that batch at all..
Thanks for another great video. Question for you - I noticed that when you shot, there was more burning powder dropping out of the muzzle (sparks) than I remember seeing normally. You said it was burning cooler, but if you are getting powder igniting after the bullet has already left the muzzle, that’s a drop in efficiency, is it not? Maybe I am just now noticing it and an totally off the mark, but I thought it was worth bringing up. Might be interesting to see how it chrono’s compared to the “unclean” (heathen? 😂) powder…
Hey Dan, all patches have zero holes burn through so, that most certainly means cooler burning. As to sparks, my powder always shoots some spark out. You most likely could see it better as I was shooting in heavy tree cover this time. Thanks for watching!
Wow! That’s an epiphany. Rubber residue is not desirable. Thanks.
BTW, your background music is really great.
For sure! Thank you!
Cool thanks for the info.
Thank you!
What a great video
Thank you
Thank you!
Good vdeo. Always learn a lot. Thanks.
Thank you!
Hey, was just looking at your video about the black stuff in the mill . Try powder coating the lead balls before you use it. By the way liked the video.
Thanks!
I'd like to agree with the rubber issue. You are way over loaded though, by the amount of burning/un-burnt power coming out of the barrel front. Yes, powder amounts do change with seasons. But, more so with Humidity contributing to the fouling issues of any BP firing arm...Over loading does significantly reduce all around performance with accuracy and ignition/fouling.
For my arms, what burns I get in the 4 seasons area I live in is/are different from season to season.. What works in one season does not work in the others three seasons. Hence along comes the fouling with it...Using 1000 + really, really reduces the fouling experience
Thanks for watching. Yes Sir, your right, all kinds of things can effect fouling and accuracy. However, this is really a medium load for this gun. At 55 gr, it is far from being over loaded for a 45 cal. She shoots spot on with this load at 25-75 yards.
AND I always keep my Powder Dry with desicant untill the time of use.
Hi Ben, good info thanks for the upload.
Thank you!
When you make your Charcoal do you remove the bark from the wood before Char-coaling it?.
The reason i ask is i read something at school years ago about one of the powder manufacturers for the british navy being dropped because it was found they were not removing the bark from the wood before turning it into charcoal and the resulting powder made with it was fouling the marines muskets in half the number of shots it normally would
Yes Sir, all bark removed.
Great video
Thank you!
You should make a video on knapping your own flints.
I would, just have not mastered that yet lol!
@@HoffmanReproductionscan you please show us the process keep it simple. 👍Luv your vids.
@@nigelkavanagh2048 On Powder making or flint knapping?
What size of dryer vent did you use
4"
My only concern with using lead balls to mill was increased exposure to fine particulate lead in the powder charges now being inhaled post firing. Lead exposure is highly toxic.
Hey warren, yes that is why I always wash my hands well after milling or shooting. As to dust blow back, many different types of mixing media can be used if it is a concern.
Any chance of that metal making a spark?
Its aluminum, so no.
How would cypress work my area cypress is more common then other soft work
I have been using marbles for a while, and recently I have noticed glass shards in my powder. Maybe they break down over time, not sure.
One thing that worries me about using metal or PVC lining in my mill, is static electricity. Could that be a problem, or am I just being paranoid.
Also I have been considering using the CIA method. Has anyone compared there two methods, is there a difference?
I am switching to steel Ball bearings for that and other reasons. I would not worry to much about a pvc mill but then again, I always keep the amount I'm making very small just in case.
careful, glass will pick up a static charge
Yep, I know some people feel that way. However, I only ever mill small batches just in case anything ever decides to light up.
I always do mine Out SIDE in a safe area just to be on the safer side. I mill most ingrediants as one's or two's intill final blend milling. Maybe KNO3 and Sulfer togater in correct ratio for a (7.5 : 01), carbon alone, or sulfer carbon, or carbon KNO3 then measure and final mill all 3 togather. but I do lead or ceramics media.