Hello Mike , wanted to say thank you . Watching your videos has saved my life TWICE. Both times involved hill. If not for the skills you have taught me I would 100% not be here or really hurt. Thanks again .
I had a Kubota DT175 that had a ton of hours on it when I bought it, but no ROPS. I lived in Oregon at that time, and had a very hilly property. The Kubota dealer quoted me $350.00 for the ROPS - installed. It was this inexpensive because of cost sharing, through the dealership, Dept of Agriculture, and some outfits in the State of Oregon, but not sure if it is university or State Extension Cooperatives. Either way, it made it attractive to me, and was great liability coverage for Kubota, as well as limiting liability for my insurance company.
Mike, great video. As a state DOT highway maintainer I have mowed many areas that probably should have been left alone but when your young and dumb you do stupid things. I never rolled a tractor but had some close calls. I always had the ROPS up, seatbelt on and went slow on slopes. Brakes were unlocked and always keep the front of the tractor pointed uphill. Usually the tractor would slide before it turned over but the batwing could slip and pull you downhill. Gravity seemed to always work against me. I mowed in the days before cabs/AC/4 wheel drive, so it was fun. I enjoyed every minute
Absolutely best advice and I speak from experience as a survivor of a rollover. My tractor was an old IH 360 1962 model with a hydraulic loader. Was loading a log and got into some of that good ole red clay mud that was just a bit wet. The ground wasn't that steep but that mud loaded the tread and turned the whole tractor into a sled. I had no rops did have a grader blade on back fortunately that is what saved me. When it flipped backwards and threw me off the blade as it flipped threw the tractor into the air and cleared over top of me landing on its top down in bottom of a revene.
A colleague of mine was killed when his tractor rolled on him. I don't know if his tractor had a ROPS or if he was belted, but each time I get on my tractor, my ROPS is up and I am belted - level or hilly terrain. It is one of my few good habits.
Outstanding safety video! I taught tractor safety with every 9th grade ag education class for thirty years. I wish your video had been available back then. Thanks for doing a great job.
Thanks for doing that! I learned more in Vo-Ag about safety than I learned from my dad,. I loved the man, but he could be a little scary to work around :). Figured I'd better get educated or be a statistic!
Thank you so much for this discussion. When I was younger, we had an older Allis with a tricycle front dad used for mowing weeds etc. Came in home mid morning, early for him, never spoke. Got a cup of coffee, smoked a couple of cigarettes, then gave me strict orders I was never to touch that #%**! tractor for any reason what so ever. Seems he was mowing around the fence lines and dropped the front into a fresh ground hog hole and came close to flipping it. True to his word, we never started it again, sold it to a scrap dealer. Unfortunately, roll overs don't generally give you a do over.
As always Mike, great great content! We run an IH674 diesel...great tractor, no ROPS. "Ironical"...I've been on the waitlist at ROPSR4U for many years. We're in Northcentral PA, so yes, lots of rolling hills. They are great folks at the National Rebate program! I was notified this year, because PA hasn't been contributing for years (surprisingly as Ag is our #1 industry). I reached out to both our State Rep and Penn State. Penn State has been kicking in their own money to help, but they did direct me back to our State Rep as it's our Dept of Ag holding things up. I've also reached out to our local EMS folks as their the ones who are the frontlines of these tractor rollovers in our rural areas. I'll be sending this along to the folks I've initiated conversations with...appreciate the phone number to Jason as well...I'll try him out. Thanks!
Mike, that was possibly your best video yet! Great information on where to look for ROPS. I never knew the site existed. Have a great week and looking forward to the next video.
Not a rollover issue, but had one of those back end is pretty light moments this morning. I got my pallet forks for my tractor finally by ordering them from a different dealer. So I get them put together and immediately put them to use. I put my roto-tiller on a pallet to make storing it easier. putting the roto-tiller on a pallet and picking it up with the pallet forks puts a lot of weight way out in front of the tractor as anyone that does this stuff knows. I have my box blade on most of the time as I use it and the loader a lot. The box blade does NOT weigh enough for proper ballast when having to move that roto-tiller/pallet. I picked that up the first time to put it on the shelf of my shelving system and felt the back end of the tractor come up as I was raising the pallet forks. Yep, that went back to the ground fast. I took the suitcase weights I have for my lawn tractor and attached them on the box blade's frame for additional weight, it helped quite a bit, but next time I have to do this I am seriously considering a ballast box so I know I have enough weight in the back end...I didn't think/know that roto-tiller weighed that much, I believe around 300 pounds maybe a bit less, but it creates a huge fulcrum effect by placing it so far out in front of the tractor on the loader arms. If the back end of your tractor feels like its going to come up when you lift something, its time to put the load back on the ground and get some additional weight back there before you even try to move that load. I can imagine in the right circumstances you could flip a tractor over if you were going fast enough and that back end came up off the ground and those pallet forks dug into the ground, or at least if it didn't flip over it could certainly cause you to be thrown off the tractor if you aren't wearing a seatbelt.
Thank you. I had my first near miss this summer. Safety is always important and now I am going to look into Rops for my 1968 JD 2510 if I can get it started again. Updraft carburetors ya know.
I have two tractors and both came with Roll Bars and I use them all the time as setup by the manufacturer. I learned about my first tractor when I got it in 2002 and tried mowing on my property and at our church. I didn't damage anything, but could have by trying to mow on a hill. Since then I stopped trying to put my tractor on hills and have kept them both in good condition by doing that.
When you mentioned uncoupling the brakes, I thought you were going to mention this thought : When going across a slope, uncouple the brakes and tap the uphill brake from time to time. If it locks up with very little brake pressure, you'll know this is very little weight on the wheel and it's time to turn downhill. I have mowed with a disc mower and I usually try to have the mower on the uphill side with the quadrant set so mower is almost beginning to rise. When mower is on downhill side, I feel it is safe as it is not trying to pull you over unless you try to raise the machine.
Excellent as always. I only have a toy tractor -- 40+ y.o. 15hp Iseki TX1300. Not only no rollbar but no safety belt, which I've never thought of. But at the end you say "turn the engine off". Impossible! The engine only turns off by reducing speed, and even for that, pulling back on the lever is insufficient -' I have to grab hold of the connecting bar and push (or tug?? I've forgotten!) to shut off the fuel.
In the area I live north east tn and south west Virginia there seams to be 2 roll over death's every year and always seams to be Bush hogging or mowing of some type thanks for the info.
Turf tires vs tractor tires. Both cause roll overs for different reasons. Turf tires are more dangerous on wet grass, but are much safer sometimes, because they will spin. If let’s say you’re skidding a log and it gets caught. Tractor tires drive thru that and flip the front end up over. I recommend turf tires and a belly mower for hobby farmers with minimal experience. I personally have 80 acres total (65 wooded) and mow 15 acres of grassy hills and hollows every week with a JD855 with a belly mower. Hobby farmers like to ride tractors, so leave the brush hog at the dealership, and get the belly mower. Once the big stuff is cut, you can mow with the belly mower. Also, it lowers your center of gravity significantly! There hasn’t been any job my JD855 hasn’t been able to handle in the past 25 years and I’ve taken it to some other sites to do jobs that some farmers can’t do with tractor tires, because they tear everything up (harrowing in a landscape for new construction as an example).
Yep, your right about that, I bought a 8441 Zetor Proxima couple years ago and the first thing I did was build a 350lb roll bar for it . Thanks for trying to educate the tractor world, See Ya, Texas
Another excellent video Mike. I had a decent amount of experience with an older Ford 3000 and a brush hog but mostly on flat ground in Florida. We now live in in western North Carolina and have a Kioti CS-2510 with a loader, box blade, and scraper blade and will soon add a brush hog. Your videos as well as my dealer have been very helpful in educating me about the operation of my tractor in hilly areas. Really appreciate it!
Thanks. I just bought my first tractor, an old Bolens-Iseki g152 - looks like justtractorparts has a ROP for it. It's a small tractor and I'm on a small plot of level ground, but good to know.
Ballist is huge but so is tractor width. I live in WV and two years ago my next door neighbor was killed in a rollover. He was thrown from the tractor and not wearing his seatbelt. He didn't believe it widening out his tractor tires and thought tires were loaded and wheel weights it still rolled. I'm a firm believer that width also saves lives. Though sometimes not practical when mowing steep ground makes it alot more stable.
When I purchased an older kubota tractor I contacted my local dealer. With some work they were able to source a rops for me. At the time kubota had a program to sell rops at cost.
Buying wider tra tors or using wheel spacers or even flipping some wheels around can give you a wider stance and increase stability. I can drive my van on hills that scare me on a zero turn. I have hills that are hayed (tractors go straight up or down and turn where it levels off) but would never take a zero turn on. It is mostly geometry and weight distribution. Steeper areas are brush and milk weed for the insects.
I know about not going on slope when it’s wet all to well. I went down my hill sideways once and I didn’t have seatbelt on but I always have rops up but I made it and learned and now unless I am just going down or up I wait until it’s dry enough and if I am mowing or other work my seatbelt is on
#1 safety device is between your ears. If that one doesn't work, the rest won't matter. A decent race car builder can custom build a ROPS. The cost will be significant no matter the source. Approach hills picking your direction to minimize chance of rolling. You can go up and down a much steeper slope nose down than what you can cross leaning the tractor to the side. Pointing the nose up can flip the tractor when nose down won't, especially trying to go up hill.
maybe I'm tattling on myself but probably wearing the seatbelt is a good idea now. also I have read don't be in a huge hurry to upright the tractor if it does flip.
The UK made ROPS a requirement a long time ago and I remember that a few years ago we reached the point where falls from height had overtaken roll-over accidents as the number one killer of farmers. Recently, ATVs have become a major danger.
A friend of mine told me of a tractor accident that happened last week. The guy was trying to cut in the side of a hill and do it fast. The tractor rolled from what he knew the ROPS was not up and the operator was not wearing a seat belt.
I had a roll over on a riding lawn mower.. I ended up down in a ditch, with the mower on top of me. (fortunately, I had my cell phone with me, although it took nearly an hour to extract it from my pants pocket) the weight of the mower, all on my upper left leg, was very painful, with the steering wheel pushed deep into my abdomen I would like to install a ROTH bar on my mower, Where would I find one?
With the ROPS in the upright position my tractor does not clear the shed entry door. I fear forgetting that it's up and damaging the shed. Any tips on setting a reminder to check before storing the tractor? Most times I use this as an excuse not to put in the proper position. Thanks!
Hang something out about a foot away from the building that dangles a few inches lower than your door so you'll hit it first. It could be as simple as a light chain attached to a 4x4 or a timber that can swing so it won't damage anything if you hit it. Like one of those "If you hit this light, you'll hit that bridge" warning signs.
Great recommendations. Question: are the enclosed cabins like on a John Deere 4066R sufficient for protection against rolling? Can a roll bar be installed within cabin?
I see many tractors equipped with a folding ROPS so that they can clear low hanging obstacles such as tree limbs and shed doors. I often wonder if they're as safe as a solid ROPS.
The folding ROPS has to be reinforced at the hinge area. You'll note they have plates that are thicker than the tubes acting as the hinges and locked with pins strong enough to lift the tractor with one pin.
Most are sold without ballast. Some people want the tires to not be filled because ballast increases soil compaction, which is bad for row crops and pastures So make an informed choice. You can take the loader off to run the brush cutter. Less weight above the axles means it's more stable. The brush cutter is good, low mounted ballast. Some suitcase weights fit on some box blades. Mount that on the 3 point when using the loader. (I usually want the box blade and loader for the same job) We have"quick change" attachments so we can do many jobs with one tractor. Use the correct setup for the job. BTW, I'm pumping the antifreeze out of my tires when I complete my pond digging project. I want the ballast now. I won't have as much need for it later and will want to reduce soil compaction in the big garden and the pasture.
Thinking about putting one on my Ford 3600. I am aware of their importance as a friend of mine was killed that way while trying to pull a stump. He was only 16. When I was younger I have seen several of my uncles try to jerk a stump out and have the front wheels off the ground at least 15 inches. I won't try this because if you slip on the clutch at the wrong moment it won't be good. Cost is definitely a factor.
My dad had a Fiat 411R tractor that did not have roll over protection. He obtained three pieces of steel bar, strong stuff and had them welded & bolted to the tractor.
Its 2021 you would think american tractor companies would start making tractors with a lower center of gravity for steep hills tractor roll overs aren't a new thing thousands of people have to killed there several European tractor companies that make low center of gravity tractors for hill
Waste of money and time looking for a rops. I own a thousand acre orchard that has steep hills have always drove the tractor with rops down. Anybody who knows how to drive a tractor doesn’t need to worry about flipping a tractor on its side
Excellent ROPS advice. We must all be diligent in ROPS up and seat belt on every…single…time…
Hello Mike , wanted to say thank you . Watching your videos has saved my life TWICE. Both times involved hill. If not for the skills you have taught me I would 100% not be here or really hurt. Thanks again .
I had a Kubota DT175 that had a ton of hours on it when I bought it, but no ROPS. I lived in Oregon at that time, and had a very hilly property. The Kubota dealer quoted me $350.00 for the ROPS - installed. It was this inexpensive because of cost sharing, through the dealership, Dept of Agriculture, and some outfits in the State of Oregon, but not sure if it is university or State Extension Cooperatives. Either way, it made it attractive to me, and was great liability coverage for Kubota, as well as limiting liability for my insurance company.
Mike, great video. As a state DOT highway maintainer I have mowed many areas that probably should have been left alone but when your young and dumb you do stupid things. I never rolled a tractor but had some close calls. I always had the ROPS up, seatbelt on and went slow on slopes. Brakes were unlocked and always keep the front of the tractor pointed uphill. Usually the tractor would slide before it turned over but the batwing could slip and pull you downhill. Gravity seemed to always work against me. I mowed in the days before cabs/AC/4 wheel drive, so it was fun. I enjoyed every minute
Mike, thank you for all of your hard work and the information you provided not only to me but to the rest of your viewers. A big thumbs up 😀- Jason
Absolutely best advice and I speak from experience as a survivor of a rollover. My tractor was an old IH 360 1962 model with a hydraulic loader. Was loading a log and got into some of that good ole red clay mud that was just a bit wet. The ground wasn't that steep but that mud loaded the tread and turned the whole tractor into a sled. I had no rops did have a grader blade on back fortunately that is what saved me. When it flipped backwards and threw me off the blade as it flipped threw the tractor into the air and cleared over top of me landing on its top down in bottom of a revene.
Well said Mike. Seems that all too often safety is at the bottom of the to do list.
A colleague of mine was killed when his tractor rolled on him. I don't know if his tractor had a ROPS or if he was belted, but each time I get on my tractor, my ROPS is up and I am belted - level or hilly terrain. It is one of my few good habits.
Outstanding safety video! I taught tractor safety with every 9th grade ag education class for thirty years. I wish your video had been available back then. Thanks for doing a great job.
Thanks for doing that! I learned more in Vo-Ag about safety than I learned from my dad,. I loved the man, but he could be a little scary to work around :). Figured I'd better get educated or be a statistic!
Mike, that was GREAT advice. While I have never seen a tractor rollover, I have definitely heard of them. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for this discussion. When I was younger, we had an older Allis with a tricycle front dad used for mowing weeds etc. Came in home mid morning, early for him, never spoke. Got a cup of coffee, smoked a couple of cigarettes, then gave me strict orders I was never to touch that #%**! tractor for any reason what so ever. Seems he was mowing around the fence lines and dropped the front into a fresh ground hog hole and came close to flipping it. True to his word, we never started it again, sold it to a scrap dealer. Unfortunately, roll overs don't generally give you a do over.
As always Mike, great great content! We run an IH674 diesel...great tractor, no ROPS.
"Ironical"...I've been on the waitlist at ROPSR4U for many years. We're in Northcentral PA, so yes, lots of rolling hills.
They are great folks at the National Rebate program! I was notified this year, because PA hasn't been contributing for years (surprisingly as Ag is our #1 industry). I reached out to both our State Rep and Penn State. Penn State has been kicking in their own money to help, but they did direct me back to our State Rep as it's our Dept of Ag holding things up.
I've also reached out to our local EMS folks as their the ones who are the frontlines of these tractor rollovers in our rural areas.
I'll be sending this along to the folks I've initiated conversations with...appreciate the phone number to Jason as well...I'll try him out. Thanks!
Mike, that was possibly your best video yet! Great information on where to look for ROPS. I never knew the site existed. Have a great week and looking forward to the next video.
Not a rollover issue, but had one of those back end is pretty light moments this morning. I got my pallet forks for my tractor finally by ordering them from a different dealer. So I get them put together and immediately put them to use. I put my roto-tiller on a pallet to make storing it easier. putting the roto-tiller on a pallet and picking it up with the pallet forks puts a lot of weight way out in front of the tractor as anyone that does this stuff knows. I have my box blade on most of the time as I use it and the loader a lot. The box blade does NOT weigh enough for proper ballast when having to move that roto-tiller/pallet. I picked that up the first time to put it on the shelf of my shelving system and felt the back end of the tractor come up as I was raising the pallet forks. Yep, that went back to the ground fast. I took the suitcase weights I have for my lawn tractor and attached them on the box blade's frame for additional weight, it helped quite a bit, but next time I have to do this I am seriously considering a ballast box so I know I have enough weight in the back end...I didn't think/know that roto-tiller weighed that much, I believe around 300 pounds maybe a bit less, but it creates a huge fulcrum effect by placing it so far out in front of the tractor on the loader arms.
If the back end of your tractor feels like its going to come up when you lift something, its time to put the load back on the ground and get some additional weight back there before you even try to move that load. I can imagine in the right circumstances you could flip a tractor over if you were going fast enough and that back end came up off the ground and those pallet forks dug into the ground, or at least if it didn't flip over it could certainly cause you to be thrown off the tractor if you aren't wearing a seatbelt.
Thank you. I had my first near miss this summer. Safety is always important and now I am going to look into Rops for my 1968 JD 2510 if I can get it started again. Updraft carburetors ya know.
I have two tractors and both came with Roll Bars and I use them all the time as setup by the manufacturer. I learned about my first tractor when I got it in 2002 and tried mowing on my property and at our church. I didn't damage anything, but could have by trying to mow on a hill. Since then I stopped trying to put my tractor on hills and have kept them both in good condition by doing that.
When you mentioned uncoupling the brakes, I thought you were going to mention this thought : When going across a slope, uncouple the brakes and tap the uphill brake from time to time. If it locks up with very little brake pressure, you'll know this is very little weight on the wheel and it's time to turn downhill.
I have mowed with a disc mower and I usually try to have the mower on the uphill side with the quadrant set so mower is almost beginning to rise. When mower is on downhill side, I feel it is safe as it is not trying to pull you over unless you try to raise the machine.
I got lucky 10 years ago and scored a used Ford factory ROPS for my 4610 SU from a guy that restores Ford tractors. Great video Mike. Thanks again.
One of your best videos ever. Thanks.
Great video. Good chance it saved someone’s life down the road.
Excellent as always. I only have a toy tractor -- 40+ y.o. 15hp Iseki TX1300. Not only no rollbar but no safety belt, which I've never thought of. But at the end you say "turn the engine off". Impossible! The engine only turns off by reducing speed, and even for that, pulling back on the lever is insufficient -' I have to grab hold of the connecting bar and push (or tug?? I've forgotten!) to shut off the fuel.
In the area I live north east tn and south west Virginia there seams to be 2 roll over death's every year and always seams to be Bush hogging or mowing of some type thanks for the info.
Turf tires vs tractor tires. Both cause roll overs for different reasons. Turf tires are more dangerous on wet grass, but are much safer sometimes, because they will spin. If let’s say you’re skidding a log and it gets caught. Tractor tires drive thru that and flip the front end up over. I recommend turf tires and a belly mower for hobby farmers with minimal experience. I personally have 80 acres total (65 wooded) and mow 15 acres of grassy hills and hollows every week with a JD855 with a belly mower. Hobby farmers like to ride tractors, so leave the brush hog at the dealership, and get the belly mower. Once the big stuff is cut, you can mow with the belly mower. Also, it lowers your center of gravity significantly! There hasn’t been any job my JD855 hasn’t been able to handle in the past 25 years and I’ve taken it to some other sites to do jobs that some farmers can’t do with tractor tires, because they tear everything up (harrowing in a landscape for new construction as an example).
Yep, your right about that, I bought a 8441 Zetor Proxima couple years ago and the first thing I did was build a 350lb roll bar for it . Thanks for trying to educate the tractor world, See Ya, Texas
Another excellent video Mike. I had a decent amount of experience with an older Ford 3000 and a brush hog but mostly on flat ground in Florida. We now live in in western North Carolina and have a Kioti CS-2510 with a loader, box blade, and scraper blade and will soon add a brush hog. Your videos as well as my dealer have been very helpful in educating me about the operation of my tractor in hilly areas. Really appreciate it!
Great advise Mike thanks
Thanks. I just bought my first tractor, an old Bolens-Iseki g152 - looks like justtractorparts has a ROP for it. It's a small tractor and I'm on a small plot of level ground, but good to know.
Ballist is huge but so is tractor width. I live in WV and two years ago my next door neighbor was killed in a rollover. He was thrown from the tractor and not wearing his seatbelt. He didn't believe it widening out his tractor tires and thought tires were loaded and wheel weights it still rolled. I'm a firm believer that width also saves lives. Though sometimes not practical when mowing steep ground makes it alot more stable.
When I purchased an older kubota tractor I contacted my local dealer. With some work they were able to source a rops for me. At the time kubota had a program to sell rops at cost.
Thank you so much. A real service.
Always good information Mike. Thank you
Buying wider tra tors or using wheel spacers or even flipping some wheels around can give you a wider stance and increase stability. I can drive my van on hills that scare me on a zero turn. I have hills that are hayed (tractors go straight up or down and turn where it levels off) but would never take a zero turn on. It is mostly geometry and weight distribution. Steeper areas are brush and milk weed for the insects.
I know about not going on slope when it’s wet all to well. I went down my hill sideways once and I didn’t have seatbelt on but I always have rops up but I made it and learned and now unless I am just going down or up I wait until it’s dry enough and if I am mowing or other work my seatbelt is on
Very good safety sam video. Those stats are pretty concerning.
#1 safety device is between your ears. If that one doesn't work, the rest won't matter.
A decent race car builder can custom build a ROPS.
The cost will be significant no matter the source.
Approach hills picking your direction to minimize chance of rolling. You can go up and down a much steeper slope nose down than what you can cross leaning the tractor to the side.
Pointing the nose up can flip the tractor when nose down won't, especially trying to go up hill.
maybe I'm tattling on myself but probably wearing the seatbelt is a good idea now. also I have read don't be in a huge hurry to upright the tractor if it does flip.
great tips
Important topic. Thanks for covering it! BTW, that is a fine looking hat 😃. Chiefs fan here too
Last night was painful. I'm in a somber mood today,
The UK made ROPS a requirement a long time ago and I remember that a few years ago we reached the point where falls from height had overtaken roll-over accidents as the number one killer of farmers. Recently, ATVs have become a major danger.
A friend of mine told me of a tractor accident that happened last week. The guy was trying to cut in the side of a hill and do it fast. The tractor rolled from what he knew the ROPS was not up and the operator was not wearing a seat belt.
Good advice Mike..Thanks
Thanks for the video! Your videos are incredibly helpful.
Great video!!
I had a roll over on a riding lawn mower..
I ended up down in a ditch, with the mower on top of me.
(fortunately, I had my cell phone with me, although it took nearly an hour to extract it from my pants pocket)
the weight of the mower, all on my upper left leg, was very painful, with the steering wheel pushed deep into my abdomen
I would like to install a ROTH bar on my mower, Where would I find one?
With the ROPS in the upright position my tractor does not clear the shed entry door. I fear forgetting that it's up and damaging the shed. Any tips on setting a reminder to check before storing the tractor? Most times I use this as an excuse not to put in the proper position. Thanks!
Hang something out about a foot away from the building that dangles a few inches lower than your door so you'll hit it first. It could be as simple as a light chain attached to a 4x4 or a timber that can swing so it won't damage anything if you hit it. Like one of those "If you hit this light, you'll hit that bridge" warning signs.
Great recommendations. Question: are the enclosed cabins like on a John Deere 4066R sufficient for protection against rolling? Can a roll bar be installed within cabin?
Yes, cabs have the ability to support the weight of the tractor in a rollover just like the ROPS do.
@@TractorMike Thank you!
The cab weldment is ROPS certified.
I see many tractors equipped with a folding ROPS so that they can clear low hanging obstacles such as tree limbs and shed doors. I often wonder if they're as safe as a solid ROPS.
The folding ROPS has to be reinforced at the hinge area. You'll note they have plates that are thicker than the tubes acting as the hinges and locked with pins strong enough to lift the tractor with one pin.
If they are up, yes.
I wonder how many tractors have been sold in the United States without ballast in the tires? Thought Deere had a lawsuit against them?
Most are sold without ballast.
Some people want the tires to not be filled because ballast increases soil compaction, which is bad for row crops and pastures
So make an informed choice.
You can take the loader off to run the brush cutter. Less weight above the axles means it's more stable. The brush cutter is good, low mounted ballast.
Some suitcase weights fit on some box blades. Mount that on the 3 point when using the loader. (I usually want the box blade and loader for the same job)
We have"quick change" attachments so we can do many jobs with one tractor.
Use the correct setup for the job.
BTW, I'm pumping the antifreeze out of my tires when I complete my pond digging project. I want the ballast now. I won't have as much need for it later and will want to reduce soil compaction in the big garden and the pasture.
“Keep the shiny side up and rubber side down”-old truckers proverb
In regards to manufacturers helping to pay for roll bars for older tractors: I'm pretty sure they'd rather sell you a new one.
LOL. The first thing that influences telling someone if it's safe or not is liability.
Thinking about putting one on my Ford 3600. I am aware of their importance as a friend of mine was killed that way while trying to pull a stump. He was only 16. When I was younger I have seen several of my uncles try to jerk a stump out and have the front wheels off the ground at least 15 inches. I won't try this because if you slip on the clutch at the wrong moment it won't be good. Cost is definitely a factor.
yes, wear your seat belt.
My dad had a Fiat 411R tractor that did not have roll over protection. He obtained three pieces of steel bar, strong stuff and had them welded & bolted to the tractor.
We lost a neighbor this week because of tractor roll over
Its 2021 you would think american tractor companies would start making tractors with a lower center of gravity for steep hills tractor roll overs aren't a new thing thousands of people have to killed there several European tractor companies that make low center of gravity tractors for hill
who would be the one person to DISLIKE this video ? lol
Waste of money and time looking for a rops. I own a thousand acre orchard that has steep hills have always drove the tractor with rops down. Anybody who knows how to drive a tractor doesn’t need to worry about flipping a tractor on its side
Sunny,
1 Corinthians 10:12
Wherefore let him that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall
Stay safe