Considering significant difference in view count, it looks like many people missed the part 2 which is very important and ensures longevity of this repair: th-cam.com/video/_Q6gvNebBK8/w-d-xo.html Anyway, thank you for the video, it helped me with the repair. The replacement part is now fairly cheap (I was able to get a used one for 25 €) and then I repaired mine. So if it breaks again, I can just replace it again. @MegaSafetyFirst: could you pin your comment mentioning part 2 so it is more visible? I found it just by accident when going through comments after I finished.
THANK YOU!!! Made this repair last night in less than 45 minutes total. Two tips: Take both screws out of the bottom of the steering column and use a few toothpicks next to the tabs on the outside of the module box to help get to top off...hardest part of the process. Tacking the broken tab back on with a small tipped soldering iron is easier than you might think and makes a very solid repair...likely permanent.
I followed the comment to weld it all together and it worked great. 1 year without the right turn switching off by the steering wheel and now it works as it should. Thanks for the video and comments.
Thank you thank you THANK YOU!!! Just got an '05 Mazda 3 off Craigslist with this exact issue. Right signal didn't cancel. Took me about an hour following along with your video and I got everything working! Saved me probably 100 bucks and a lot of future headaches! I owe you, thank you very much. By the way, I did what other commenters did and just fused all of the parts together: the spring part, broken part and main stalk together. That seems to be secure and should last the rest of the car's lifetime. Also, if anyone else would be following along, be careful when prying apart the housing! I nearly lost one of the metal contacts for the turn signal, and that would've made the unit as good as dead.
Very useful video. Tail lights stopped working and coincidentally the turn light switch would stick. The switch had worn electrodes and broken plastic pieces. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you for the tip. Just one detail, the piece you soldered, I glued it to the rail and then glued it to the base and did it at the other end. I glued everything. I installed it again and it worked perfectly.
Thanks so much. This is great and helped me fix mine. Instead of using a soldering iron I used Loctite plastic glue - I had to do it twice because I didn't wait at least 30 minutes the first time for the glue to set properly. Also, take care to put the part that goes under the spring back the correct way. In the video you put the plastic part over the spring which is why you needed to hold it with tweezers. If you check the beginning of the video when it was being disassembled, the plastic bit sits under the spring and is held in place by it. Thanks again, this video saved me.
Thanks a million. Your video helped me a lot. Not only it showed HOW to repair the blinker's switch, it showed that the disassembly and reassembly is simple. It gave me the push to try. I repaired the broken piece by roughening the outer parts of the parts, cleaning very well with acetone (with ear swabs), fixing the broken part with crazy glue on the broken edge, and with epoxy on the outer sides. There is enough room for application of quite a bit of epoxy. No room for glue in the inner part, where the part with the spring is to be fastened. Thanks again! Yossi Gofer
Thank you for the instructional video, it helped to put the contacts back in because when I did finally open it up they flew out and I had no idea how they sat. I did open both sides like your 2nd video and one thing I did different is I super glued the piece in to hold it in place before soldering. Another thing to make it stronger is I stripped some old 22 awg wire and melted 3 small pieces trying to get wire on both sides and melted it into the plastic. Also added extra plastic to the back side. Did it last week and so far so good. Beats spending $80 that would be better spent on other parts or gas. Probably wouldn't of attempted this without seeing your video, much appreciated.
Thank you!! On the scale of difficulty in relation to car repairs, this was a *somewhat annoying* yet simple fix...for a female that just started learning how to maintain her own car 2 yrs ago when she bought this 2005 mazda 3. Popping the top off of the switch was the annoying part. I don't have a bunch of tiny screwdrivers or clamps to use as wedges so i cut up an old plastic card and used the pieces to wedge it as i worked it open. Also, i have a flat, thin piece of metal that came with a bunch of trim tools that i bought a while ago that worked better at popping the clips than my tiny flat head because of the roundness/thickness of the screwdriver made it more difficult to get in there. Just throwing that out there for anyone that it may help. I also went with the superglue method of just gluing the broken pieces to the spring & white piece, as i dont know how to solder. My 1st attempt didnt hold past the 1st test so i had to take it all apart again. It didnt hold because i only glued the broken piece in place but it wasnt a strong enough bond, so the 2nd time i just glued the broken side and the opposite/intact side to the top white piece so it is now just a solid piece. It seems to have done the job. I am sooo happy to have a fully functioning turn signal again!
Did mine today. I have fixed other things in this way so didn't hesitate to try this. I completely disassembled mine to get at it from all angles. So far So good. Thanks for posting.
Worked for me as well. I opened up the entire switch as descried in your follow up video, and used some plastic from my 3d printer to solder the broken piece back on. Thank you for publishing this helpful video!
Thanks for the video! I actually just ended up chucking that whole plastic piece that broke off away (I struggled so bad to superglue it back...and when I did, it broke off again). What I actually did was just superglue that whole plastic piece (spring in all) to the switch.---they should have just made it all one piece instead of complicating things by all those moving pieces.
Pay attention at 3:52 to the low/high beam piece and make sure you fit the insert onto the knob so the high beam lever works when pulled or pushed. I missed the alignment of that piece and had to pull it apart to fix it.
for welding pieces of plastic together, better than just using the soldering iron to melt the edges together, use a staple (from a staple gun) to connect the 2 pieces together by holding the iron on the staple till it gets hot enough to sink in the plastic and fix it.
Thanks for uploading your video to help others to able to repair this issue themselves, Good job as you just stuffed up Mazda ripping off the people :) This part also broke on my 2006 model Mazda 3 as well about 1 year ago. I also pulled mine apart and inspected the breakage of this small plastic end piece, I noticed that this end piece where it broke off is manufactured by Mazda to barely hold together! When I looked at the break on my one, it was only held on by less than a thread of plastic as its all mounded in one piece, No doubt about it, I believe this part is made this way by Mazda on purpose for this part to break! Money Money Money $$$$$$$...... So who ever mentioned in these comments that this is made to break, your 101% rite! I just feel for those who have no idea on how to repair things themselves and go spend their hard earned money taking their cars to rip off Mazda service centers and are their doing themselves a big injustice! Mazda are just shifty and their a big rip off as well, Mazda service centers also charge through the roof! And by the way, If you think that a professional tradesman is working on you car when you take it to Mazda service centers, Well guess again as your kidding yourself, as Mazda get their school leavers kids 1st year apprentices to learn on you cars. I'm not joking either! Find yourself an independent honest mechanic and keep the hell away from rip off Mazda service centers. Take my word, I know. I worked for Mazda.
Good hack and well worth it given it's around $70 for a used part in Australia. Took about 50 minutes, just take care when prying apart, you can see the lugs all around the outside, pry outwardly gently to release the outer cases hold on each lug.
It is currently dated for me 8/15/2023 and I have a 2012 mazda 3 sedan i touring, I was driving one day like any other and then I used my blinker and it felt really weird when I did, then my blinker switch was messed up bad, every steering wheel rotation there would be a crazy loud click as if the blinker was always trying to turn itself off. I watched this video and realized I could just take out the plastic spring mechanism and the actuater part that’s pointy, and slap my blinker stick back into the Mazda 3 and boom completely fixed, my blinker stick works perfect and no more click, the only thing is now I have to manually turn OFF my blinkers with the stick after I turn instead of it auto turning off, totally worth it, took 30 mins and it was free 😭
Thank you, my friend! (danke mein Freund) I fixed mine (Mazda 5) with your wonderful instructions. One thing I noticed you did "wrong". You have the actuator upside down. It goes UNDER the spring, so you don't need to hold it in place when you put it back together. You'll notice a little channel where the spring goes. Also, getting the top off the switch module is devilishly hard without breaking it. I clamped a needle-nose vice grips on the one side that I first pried up, so it wouldn't latch back in while I was prying out the opposite side.
+Bruce Snyder I had no idea the actuator was upside down. Thank you very much for mentioning this!! I also agree with getting the top off being really difficult. It took we a while because it kept snapping back in, just like you said. I ended up sticking small screwdrivers into the sections that I managed to pry open. Thank you for your comment!
I tried jamming in the screwdrivers first, but they kept popping out. That's when I thought of clamping the one side with the vice grips; you can also use it to pry off the lid while still clamped on, as you release the other side tabs.
+Bruce Snyder Using vice grips sounds like the better way to go. Sticking the screwdriver into the module caused some of the plastic components to become loose early on and I had no idea where they belong. It then took me some time to figure out how all the pieces go back together.
I love, that this fix didn't cost anything. They made it in a way that it breaks, because they want your money, but you showed them! Way to go. I hope it lasts forever now!
+mygiguser Thx for The comment, the part is really meant to break! I think the dealer was asking $80 for a new switch. Maybe if you can find one at a junkyard for cheaper, if you are lucky.
Thank you for the helpful video. Going to do this in a couple of hours. After that I need to peek at the driver window switch, it doesn't like to go back up, requires a lot of pressing the UP button over and over. I really like this 3 overall, it's just got some quirks to work around.
I would feel reasonably confident in the longevity of this fix considering you attached it on both sides. If you examine the factory part, you'll see that it's only attached on one side, hence why it's always the right turn signal that breaks. It's pretty clearly designed to break. Anyways, thanks for the helpful video, albeit the music choice was questionable :)
+SLO-MO-YO Hehe, was wondering if someone would notice. The length of the video and of the song just happened to be exactly the same. That's why I chose it.
Wow. I’m apparently terrible with a soldering iron. Everything was easy but I spent about an hour trying to bond the pieces together, just ended up burning my fingers..then tried super glue, didn’t work, then tried gorilla glue and after 2 hours it still didn’t bond. Then put it back together defeated, haha. Looks like I’ll be buying the part
My switch wouldn't auto return on a left actuation. I dismantled the switch, found the broken piece and cleaned the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and then glued it with construction adhesive. It didn't work. Then I used my soldering iron tomelt the pieces together. Couldn't get them in alignment so decided to glue everything together and reassemble. Now the switch dosen't auto teturn on either side so I'm off to Pick a Part to get a used one for $35.00. Should have done that first...
I have a question, what if the right turn signal is hazards instead? My left signal works fine, but when I use my right signal, my hazards come up. The hazards work fine too, its just my “right” signal.
My Mazda 3 2012 has no fog light switch, I looked on ebay and found lights that have both auto lights and fog lights. I know the auto light function would not function without a sensor but do you think the fog lights would work if I installed that switch and also bought after market fog lights?
Do i need to disable the airbag before doing this? Someone told me that you risk deploying the airbag if you dont disable it before removing the switch. Is this true or necessary?
Check out this webpage for closeup images of disassembled the switch: megasafetyfirst.blogspot.com/p/mazda.html It may help to understand better how the switch works! The link to my followup video: th-cam.com/video/_Q6gvNebBK8/w-d-xo.html
@@maximusp210 It's just "good practice" from preventing any damage to the bcu / ecu which are just hard drive control modules. Nothing will happen though if you don't
Same problem, same car...I think that certain cars have certain diseases. I'll try to fix it, thank you. Last, I was wondering if a really strong glue would do the work.
Thanks Mate for a great video. Just did the same thing with my 2005 model and it works well. These Mazda 3 Models have a few design faults that just keep on giving! Like the right hand hydraulic engine mount needing replacement, after 20,000-30,000k. See, th-cam.com/video/E2IptC4651Q/w-d-xo.html. Thanks heaps and keep up with the great video's.
Considering significant difference in view count, it looks like many people missed the part 2 which is very important and ensures longevity of this repair:
th-cam.com/video/_Q6gvNebBK8/w-d-xo.html
Anyway, thank you for the video, it helped me with the repair. The replacement part is now fairly cheap (I was able to get a used one for 25 €) and then I repaired mine. So if it breaks again, I can just replace it again.
@MegaSafetyFirst: could you pin your comment mentioning part 2 so it is more visible? I found it just by accident when going through comments after I finished.
Thank you for your feedback and to point this out! I thought I had pinned the other video here when I first posted it. I must have forgot.
THANK YOU!!! Made this repair last night in less than 45 minutes total. Two tips: Take both screws out of the bottom of the steering column and use a few toothpicks next to the tabs on the outside of the module box to help get to top off...hardest part of the process. Tacking the broken tab back on with a small tipped soldering iron is easier than you might think and makes a very solid repair...likely permanent.
I followed the comment to weld it all together and it worked great. 1 year without the right turn switching off by the steering wheel and now it works as it should. Thanks for the video and comments.
Just followed your video to fix my son's mazda 3. Worked a treat and now fixed. Thank you so much
Thank you thank you THANK YOU!!! Just got an '05 Mazda 3 off Craigslist with this exact issue. Right signal didn't cancel. Took me about an hour following along with your video and I got everything working! Saved me probably 100 bucks and a lot of future headaches! I owe you, thank you very much. By the way, I did what other commenters did and just fused all of the parts together: the spring part, broken part and main stalk together. That seems to be secure and should last the rest of the car's lifetime. Also, if anyone else would be following along, be careful when prying apart the housing! I nearly lost one of the metal contacts for the turn signal, and that would've made the unit as good as dead.
Very useful video. Tail lights stopped working and coincidentally the turn light switch would stick. The switch had worn electrodes and broken plastic pieces. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you for the tip. Just one detail, the piece you soldered, I glued it to the rail and then glued it to the base and did it at the other end. I glued everything. I installed it again and it worked perfectly.
Thanks so much. This is great and helped me fix mine. Instead of using a soldering iron I used Loctite plastic glue - I had to do it twice because I didn't wait at least 30 minutes the first time for the glue to set properly. Also, take care to put the part that goes under the spring back the correct way. In the video you put the plastic part over the spring which is why you needed to hold it with tweezers. If you check the beginning of the video when it was being disassembled, the plastic bit sits under the spring and is held in place by it. Thanks again, this video saved me.
Thanks a million. Your video helped me a lot. Not only it showed HOW to repair the blinker's switch, it showed that the disassembly and reassembly is simple. It gave me the push to try.
I repaired the broken piece by roughening the outer parts of the parts, cleaning very well with acetone (with ear swabs), fixing the broken part with crazy glue on the broken edge, and with epoxy on the outer sides. There is enough room for application of quite a bit of epoxy. No room for glue in the inner part, where the part with the spring is to be fastened.
Thanks again!
Yossi Gofer
Thank you for the instructional video, it helped to put the contacts back in because when I did finally open it up they flew out and I had no idea how they sat. I did open both sides like your 2nd video and one thing I did different is I super glued the piece in to hold it in place before soldering. Another thing to make it stronger is I stripped some old 22 awg wire and melted 3 small pieces trying to get wire on both sides and melted it into the plastic. Also added extra plastic to the back side. Did it last week and so far so good. Beats spending $80 that would be better spent on other parts or gas. Probably wouldn't of attempted this without seeing your video, much appreciated.
Thank you!! On the scale of difficulty in relation to car repairs, this was a *somewhat annoying* yet simple fix...for a female that just started learning how to maintain her own car 2 yrs ago when she bought this 2005 mazda 3. Popping the top off of the switch was the annoying part. I don't have a bunch of tiny screwdrivers or clamps to use as wedges so i cut up an old plastic card and used the pieces to wedge it as i worked it open. Also, i have a flat, thin piece of metal that came with a bunch of trim tools that i bought a while ago that worked better at popping the clips than my tiny flat head because of the roundness/thickness of the screwdriver made it more difficult to get in there. Just throwing that out there for anyone that it may help. I also went with the superglue method of just gluing the broken pieces to the spring & white piece, as i dont know how to solder. My 1st attempt didnt hold past the 1st test so i had to take it all apart again. It didnt hold because i only glued the broken piece in place but it wasnt a strong enough bond, so the 2nd time i just glued the broken side and the opposite/intact side to the top white piece so it is now just a solid piece. It seems to have done the job. I am sooo happy to have a fully functioning turn signal again!
Did mine today. I have fixed other things in this way so didn't hesitate to try this. I completely disassembled mine to get at it from all angles. So far So good. Thanks for posting.
Worked for me as well. I opened up the entire switch as descried in your follow up video, and used some plastic from my 3d printer to solder the broken piece back on. Thank you for publishing this helpful video!
Thanks for the video! I actually just ended up chucking that whole plastic piece that broke off away (I struggled so bad to superglue it back...and when I did, it broke off again). What I actually did was just superglue that whole plastic piece (spring in all) to the switch.---they should have just made it all one piece instead of complicating things by all those moving pieces.
This is the best fix. I tried the method in the video but it just ended up breaking again just over a month later
@@parryhotter2319 I'M SO GLAD I WENT TO THE COMMENTS!
Pay attention at 3:52 to the low/high beam piece and make sure you fit the insert onto the knob so the high beam lever works when pulled or pushed. I missed the alignment of that piece and had to pull it apart to fix it.
thanks for the heads up! about to do this today.
for welding pieces of plastic together, better than just using the soldering iron to melt the edges together, use a staple (from a staple gun) to connect the 2 pieces together by holding the iron on the staple till it gets hot enough to sink in the plastic and fix it.
Awesome idea. I have to remember that. Thx!
Thanks for uploading your video to help others to able to repair this issue themselves, Good job as you just stuffed up Mazda ripping off the people :)
This part also broke on my 2006 model Mazda 3 as well about 1 year ago. I also pulled mine apart and inspected the breakage of this small plastic end piece, I noticed that this end piece where it broke off is manufactured by Mazda to barely hold together! When I looked at the break on my one, it was only held on by less than a thread of plastic as its all mounded in one piece, No doubt about it, I believe this part is made this way by Mazda on purpose for this part to break! Money Money Money $$$$$$$......
So who ever mentioned in these comments that this is made to break, your 101% rite!
I just feel for those who have no idea on how to repair things themselves and go spend their hard earned money taking their cars to rip off Mazda service centers and are their doing themselves a big injustice! Mazda are just shifty and their a big rip off as well, Mazda service centers also charge through the roof! And by the way, If you think that a professional tradesman is working on you car when you take it to Mazda service centers, Well guess again as your kidding yourself, as Mazda get their school leavers kids 1st year apprentices to learn on you cars. I'm not joking either! Find yourself an independent honest mechanic and keep the hell away from rip off Mazda service centers. Take my word, I know. I worked for Mazda.
Good hack and well worth it given it's around $70 for a used part in Australia. Took about 50 minutes, just take care when prying apart, you can see the lugs all around the outside, pry outwardly gently to release the outer cases hold on each lug.
It is currently dated for me 8/15/2023 and I have a 2012 mazda 3 sedan i touring, I was driving one day like any other and then I used my blinker and it felt really weird when I did, then my blinker switch was messed up bad, every steering wheel rotation there would be a crazy loud click as if the blinker was always trying to turn itself off. I watched this video and realized I could just take out the plastic spring mechanism and the actuater part that’s pointy, and slap my blinker stick back into the Mazda 3 and boom completely fixed, my blinker stick works perfect and no more click, the only thing is now I have to manually turn OFF my blinkers with the stick after I turn instead of it auto turning off, totally worth it, took 30 mins and it was free 😭
You are so smart! My cx3 2021 had a same problem, the vehicle is brand new and it is covered by the warranty, so I am not worried.
Thank you, my friend! (danke mein Freund) I fixed mine (Mazda 5) with your wonderful instructions. One thing I noticed you did "wrong". You have the actuator upside down. It goes UNDER the spring, so you don't need to hold it in place when you put it back together. You'll notice a little channel where the spring goes. Also, getting the top off the switch module is devilishly hard without breaking it. I clamped a needle-nose vice grips on the one side that I first pried up, so it wouldn't latch back in while I was prying out the opposite side.
+Bruce Snyder I had no idea the actuator was upside down. Thank you very much for mentioning this!!
I also agree with getting the top off being really difficult. It took we a while because it kept snapping back in, just like you said. I ended up sticking small screwdrivers into the sections that I managed to pry open.
Thank you for your comment!
+Bruce Snyder I also appreciate the German salute! 👍🙂
I tried jamming in the screwdrivers first, but they kept popping out. That's when I thought of clamping the one side with the vice grips; you can also use it to pry off the lid while still clamped on, as you release the other side tabs.
+Bruce Snyder Using vice grips sounds like the better way to go.
Sticking the screwdriver into the module caused some of the plastic components to become loose early on and I had no idea where they belong. It then took me some time to figure out how all the pieces go back together.
I love, that this fix didn't cost anything. They made it in a way that it breaks, because they want your money, but you showed them! Way to go. I hope it lasts forever now!
+mygiguser Thx for The comment, the part is really meant to break!
I think the dealer was asking $80 for a new switch. Maybe if you can find one at a junkyard for cheaper, if you are lucky.
Great video! Really easy to follow. Thank you.
Thank you for the helpful video. Going to do this in a couple of hours. After that I need to peek at the driver window switch, it doesn't like to go back up, requires a lot of pressing the UP button over and over. I really like this 3 overall, it's just got some quirks to work around.
Thanks 🎉 I didn’t know I had a telescoping extending wheel!
Great information and, perfect explanation..worked a treat..🎉 thankyou
Perfect thanks I have the same problem, I think my mazda has the same switch. Tomorrow I will check and try to repair your way
Thank you so much for the video, it helped a lot!
I would feel reasonably confident in the longevity of this fix considering you attached it on both sides. If you examine the factory part, you'll see that it's only attached on one side, hence why it's always the right turn signal that breaks. It's pretty clearly designed to break. Anyways, thanks for the helpful video, albeit the music choice was questionable :)
Thank you for sharing ❤
Just noticed the music, lol 😜 someone getting married today?! 😂😜
+SLO-MO-YO Hehe, was wondering if someone would notice.
The length of the video and of the song just happened to be exactly the same. That's why I chose it.
Wow. I’m apparently terrible with a soldering iron. Everything was easy but I spent about an hour trying to bond the pieces together, just ended up burning my fingers..then tried super glue, didn’t work, then tried gorilla glue and after 2 hours it still didn’t bond. Then put it back together defeated, haha. Looks like I’ll be buying the part
Thanks! This helped me fix mine today. Great video.
Worked like a charm! Thanks!
Thank bro u save me money and time thank u very much
FYI - Mine (2006) had 2 screws under the column. So look first, don't just remove the one and start yanking :D
Great to know, thank you!
The spring at 4:09 what does it even do, it is just compressed between those 2 notches and nothing moves/touches it.
My switch wouldn't auto return on a left actuation. I dismantled the switch, found the broken piece and cleaned the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and then glued it with construction adhesive. It didn't work. Then I used my soldering iron tomelt the pieces together. Couldn't get them in alignment so decided to glue everything together and reassemble. Now the switch dosen't auto teturn on either side so I'm off to Pick a Part to get a used one for $35.00. Should have done that first...
Wedding music ? Good one. I love my Mazda too, but sometimes they like Wives right ?
I have a question, what if the right turn signal is hazards instead? My left signal works fine, but when I use my right signal, my hazards come up. The hazards work fine too, its just my “right” signal.
Thank you very much..same thing and same steps i do
My Mazda 3 2012 has no fog light switch, I looked on ebay and found lights that have both auto lights and fog lights. I know the auto light function would not function without a sensor but do you think the fog lights would work if I installed that switch and also bought after market fog lights?
Do i need to disable the airbag before doing this? Someone told me that you risk deploying the airbag if you dont disable it before removing the switch. Is this true or necessary?
It is advised to disconnect the battery before starting the work. 👍
Check out this webpage for closeup images of disassembled the switch:
megasafetyfirst.blogspot.com/p/mazda.html
It may help to understand better how the switch works!
The link to my followup video: th-cam.com/video/_Q6gvNebBK8/w-d-xo.html
Be sure to disconnect your battery terminals before ANY electric work!
is that to avoid the air bags from deploying?
@@maximusp210 It's just "good practice" from preventing any damage to the bcu / ecu which are just hard drive control modules. Nothing will happen though if you don't
I think mine just broke too.
Does it still work? Or should I buy a new switch?
+SLO-MO-YO Mine still works like a charm! 👍
I can totally recommend this method.
You're the best thank you
Same problem, same car...I think that certain cars have certain diseases. I'll try to fix it, thank you. Last, I was wondering if a really strong glue would do the work.
Hi, I think a strong glue would work great. Maybe even better than what I did in the video.
Mone got same problem, but its a skyactiv model. Hmmm
You da Man! 👊🏽💯
Better to put superglue
Just found the switch on Amazon, in case you just want to buy a new one: amzn.to/2wO5fIJ
Thanks Mate for a great video. Just did the same thing with my 2005 model and it works well. These Mazda 3 Models have a few design faults that just keep on giving! Like the right hand hydraulic engine mount needing replacement, after 20,000-30,000k. See, th-cam.com/video/E2IptC4651Q/w-d-xo.html. Thanks heaps and keep up with the great video's.
$33 for a new one
Ryan Mckenzie where do you buy them?
Get a new one bro lol
Some people want to save money
Thank bro u save me money and time thank u very much