I’m not a newbie to synths or music production, just to Eurorack. But I like diving in whole hog, and I’ve been watching lots of videos and planning out the rack for a while. I’m excited.
What boggles my mind here is that 10 pin PCB headers for ribbon cables are EVERYWHERE. I've got a box full of them when building my DIY Midi2CV they're really hard to just buy one unit. So I don't get how every manufacturer doesn't just have a box of these in the corner of their factory. Finally it's quite easy to protect the circuit from reverse polarity. Again not doing both is a questionable choice especially for relatively expensive modules!!!
Your speaking voice is very entertaining. I understand this is not the point... but I’m hoping you won’t mind a little ego boosting. Going back to the subject at hand... If you save just one module... it’s all been worth it! I, being very new to modular... thank you.
Alex, thank you. I only received my first case (Rackbrute 6U) and my first 5 modules (Mutable Instruments Stages, Frames, Blinds, Marbles, and Links) just yesterday. The module ribbons were pre-plugged, but I checked the red stripe to -12V on the other end, even though the plugs could only go in one way. Everything is fine. But I am so happy I saw this - THANK YOU - It could be the difference between ecstasy and sorrow someday down the line. As always, we know who to turn to.
omg preach - blowing a module with this simple mistake is horrendous. somebody needed to make a video like this for a long time - glad it was mylarmelodies
Man, don't even trust the mighty "The Definitive Connecting Power Thread" on Muff!!!! But must say, your advice on connecting Doepfers (and, yes, I have an a148 S&H!) is priceless! Their modules are a pain in the neck to connect and you always have to email Dieter about the right way on hooking them up - thanks a million for the video! One of your best! Essential!
You sir, are a bloody life saver. Just watched this, watched it again, went online to read the MN Morphagene manual (I know right?), ignored the forums, and I'm now the proud owner of a fully functioning module I have no clue how to use....it doesn't say in the manual you have to have balls of steel to operate this stuff...I owe you a pint, cheers bro.
Thanks man! If I havent watched this video before yesterday, I would have burned a module. Very similar to what have happened to you, only difference was that what was facing the wrong side was the black plastic thing that conects to the case. You saved my module. Cheers man.
This video is like when a celebrity gets busted for drunk driving and is ordered by the court to do a serious drunk driving PSA. Sobering. And appreciated. I've yet to kill a module, but have definitely rolled the dice a few times. 😬
Good timing releasing this video since I'm about to power up my new case for the first time tomorrow! Thanks for reminding me not to be too hasty in my excitement
Mylar, I watched your Intellijel Metropolis vid 4 years ago and thought "I'll never do that....". I picked up a mini doepfer box yesterday purely to power the Metropolis which arrived today. You're a dangerous man - but thank god for your videos. I'll read the manual now.
haha you animal.... I write acoustic stoner folk music, why the fk do I have this nonsense crazy sh!t in front of me?!? You, Mylar. That vid just sat in my brain for 4 years and now it's real. Genius.
I'm glad you're doing the video anyway, it's a good warning to all the newcomers, as well as a decent reminder. I managed to fry a DIY project a long while ago, all because I accidently put a connector on backwards and didn't check it thoroughly before switching on the power.
Thanks for this. I've just take delivery of my first euro rack case, and two Doepfer modules. I've had slight anxiety about connecting them properly after reading people's horror stories. I'm still mildly anxious, but I have the tools now to hopefully not set fire to stuff! 🔥🔥🔥😂
Alex, this is God's work you're doing with this video, man. Also, additional note about unshrouded headers: I know all of this, and I STILL killed a module by not literally being able to see well enough by SKIPPING AN ENTIRE ROW OF PINS. Not offsetting, up or down, but side to side. BOOM, spark, smoke - luckily it was a single capacitor that blew (I found a chunk of it in the case later on). The Make Noise boards don't even have pins that go UPWARDS, like the Doepfers; they are parallel to the back of the case, making it even harder to align properly.
Well I actually hung out with Maho Cwejman herself this weekend and to their credit - she explained the reason they put red as "+" is because in electronics, red always means positive!! In that respect it is more logical than Doepfer. But unfortunately it's the opposite of the more widely-owned-and-traded brand. Bottom line is there are no standards, no 'rules' - the ultimate lesson of the video is 'be aware, be informed, and just triple check everything'. With that said, I do think Doepfer need to put a note about power info in each and every one of their module manuals.
Just seeing this, and even though I consider myself pretty vigilant in plugging in my modules, you have made me both paranoid and grateful. Checking all my connections this moment just to be sure. Thank you for the valuable tip and necessary lecture. Cheers
I was rewatching this today and it’s very ironic because I just found out I had a Happy Nerding module connected backwards! Luckily, even though I’ve powered my case on with it installed wrong, it still works. Gotta had it to designers for including reverse power protection in modules more and more. Thank you for reminding me to always quadruple check my power connections!
Funny that... The only module I ever fried was a Doepfer Wasp. It came from the shop with the cable wrong way around (the red...) Luckily the thing that blew was a dual OpAmp with I replaced quick smart. The lesson is: 1. Electrickery is made of smoke. 2. The smoke is kept in small back boxes with metal legs. 3. Once you release the smoke electrickery cannot work. End of class.
Glad you opted for looking things over, rather than making a Yule Log video of your limping module! Too many people, faced with a module struggling, immediately give up and euthanize the poor thing.
Thank you for this. I am about to get into eurorack for the first time. Having people like you willing to help newbies takes off a lot of the terrifying guess work. Oh and also your voice is like dark red velvet and toasted chestnuts.
This seemed like such a silly video. I know all of this, and I know power... BUT.... This was GREAT. Very in-depth and lots of info on various modules and manufacturers! I guess people in Euro come from all backgrounds, and this is wonderful advice. I have 2 modules that had zero cues on the boards, and only one of those had instructions in the manual, so I had to contact the manuf. for the other one. NBD people, don't lose your fabulous investments!
It's a good topic of conversation and it's definitely worth noting not to disconnect modules from the ribbon cable, ever! And check cable connection to module if you buy something second hand👍👍
So well done. And the Monty Python (or presumably some other nuanced English humour that reads as Monty Python to ‘this here’ American) section heading treatments are ACE.
I'm happy to say that all the modules I just bought have keyed sockets or "either way" power. Seems like things are getting a tad better on this front? Maybe not with Doepfer modules though 🙃
There's really zero excuse today for a manufacturer to not use keyed shrouds on headers and keyed IDC connectors. The additional cost is trivial in manufacture and the maker gets it all back in customer goodwill on the 1st board which escapes release of the magic blue smoke.
Problem is that keyed shrouds lead people to trust that the cable itself is correct, which is dangerous. There's zero excuse for not having reverse polarity protection on modules though.
M Campbellell... problem??? If you supply a correct cable with the product and everybody uses cables of the same standard then the only people with problems will be those who try to use wrongly wired cables and Darwin takes care of those people pretty quickly. The computer industry went through this way back in the 70s. Some people paid attention to it. Apple for instance has been using shrouds in everything since 1979 and as a result during the 80s and 90s, Apple equipment didn't constantly end up in the shop with blown boards because of misaligned connectors like PC hardware did. The same is true for peripherals on all platforms. This isn't rocket science. I completely agree with you about polarity protection. A 2.2 ohm resistor on the rail feeds with reverse biased 1N5408s behind them should be a minimum. There's no reason people can't use polyfuses either.
MUNRO MUSIC, that's poppycock. I've been using connectors like these www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=5103308-5 for 40 years. The shroud makes zero, repeat *_ZERO_* difference unless you try to plug into it backwards. There are plenty of deep shrouds with eject levers too if you want that. They used to be the absolute standard across the computer industry in the 70s.
I had a similar story of totally annihilating a module... I'm actually going into the long and treacherous process of designing and making my own modules, and the first thing i'm doing is making sure as hell that every one of my modules has reverse power protection... phew!
I’ve done this loads of times but everything just flashes so I turn it off. I have the tip-top station 252 case and I think it might have its own protection built in?
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I have been a fan and follower of yours for a long time, and love your content. I also listen to and love your podcast. Anyway, this video was so helpful to me as I just successfully added my first module to my Make Noise Shared System. All went well thanks to your guidance. Much appreciated!
found myself back at this episode after I accidentally unplugged my ribbon cable from my a124 wasp filter and saw no marking on the pcb and nothing in the manual. thanks again for this!!!
the first module I ever bought came to me with the cable connected to the module wrongly. I had no idea, and connected it but nothing happened. Lucky though no damage was done. When I figured out it was the wrong way around, I turned it around and it worked. So poo poo to Vintage King Audio, and horary for Pittsburgh Modular Waveforms!
What part of "dont ask the internet" did you not understand? Check the manual and if it doesnt tell you what to do email the manufacturer directly and ask them to walk you through it.
@@lllacefield the internet is not a magic box that answers questions, if you ask the internet a question a human person will respond. That human person can be (and often is) incorrect. Don't trust random people for information. Consult the manufacturer either via the manual or directly.
@@lllacefield dont trust the person who helped. Ignore everything that they said. Pretend that they do not exist and either follow the manual or if the manual doesnt tell you what to do EMAIL THE MANUFACTURER DIRECTLY. Assume that everyone else is wrong even if they are right, the manufacturer is the only person you should pay attention to.
What about tragedies on the front of the panel? Connecting input to input, output to output, connecting Buchla to eurorack, banana into 1/8", Buchla output to eurorack output, adding splitters in the mix to the previously stated mistakes potentially compounding problems, etc. I think I fried a microphone once by plugging the mic into the input of a feedback loop guitar pedal called Eye of God (I'm pretty sure it was plugged in correctly) I think the power somehow went backwards and turned the mic into a speaker.
Also wondering what you think about preventing fire risks in the studio and what to do if one does occur, like what type of extinguisher won't ruin adjacent gear while still being effective. I've also heard that lead-free solder can lead to fires because it grows dendrites over time that can cause short circuits. You never really know if there was repair on used gear done with this kind of solder. There have been quite a few studios burn down but I'm not sure what the common element has been.
Also wondering what happens when CV is plugged into audio, audio into CV. I've heard that the results differ between modules from nothing to destruction. There are so many modules that don't label in's and out's, some just print funny symbols on their panels and expect you to figure it out. Once you start messing with things like 5 way cable splitters partially connected to other 5 way cable splitters I can imagine it gets to be a lot to keep track of to make sure you don't destroy 10 modules with 1 dumb cable mistake.
RoboticusMusic In Euro at least (and I think pretty much everything except Buchla), there’s really no distinction between audio and CV. The only real patching danger is an out to an out and even then most modules are protected against that.
Yeah none of the front panel stuff should have much of an effect, you'd have to be _really_ trying, to break something that way (Using a multiple to sum 5 10V signals to a tender input somewhere else...etc)
@@mylarmelodies Replace all the ICs. They all have power pins so they are possibly all damaged even if they didn't crack, especially the switch chip. Don't think there's anything else in the A148 that is likely to be damaged.
Thanks a lot for the video. I have quite a lot of Doepfer modules and have learned the down is -12v / red stripe trick too. But i have also plugged them the wrong way round and i am lucky enough to have not blown any of the up. I have Doepfer psu3's in home made cases and all the lights on the modules flash on and off if the power connector is the wrong way round and no magic smoke so far i'm not sure if this is a reflection of some kind of protection the psu3's or not? Did you say you replaced the TLO74 and no luck? I have the A-148 as well and you could try replacing the other chips and the only other things i can see that might blow are the two capacitors near the power connector and there's a diode in the middle. Fairly cheap components mostly probably about 5 to 10 pounds? Anyway thanks again for the important video and the amusing intros. Take it easy.
The PSU3 has some form of basic reverse protection, PSU2 doesn't. Similar experience to you if I plugged something in wrong - lights flash, case goes off and no module is damaged.
Cool we both made the right choice with the psu3! Heard off Muffwiggler they had a good reputation i'm really glad i went for it. Hope you never experience the magic smoke. Take it easy
So i got the A-148 today (btw they added the word RED on the pcb so u know what way to plug the wire) i plugged it in correctly and it worked fine. But then i turned off my rackbrute and the power supply just didnt turn off. The modules plugged in past it did but I could definitely smell something heating up somewhere. So ive now added “make sure your case turns off normally” to my list of things to do when i get a new module.
I had this exact issue with a Doepfer module I just got, and before plugging it in I scoured the net for answers, found all conflicting answers after 30 minutes of searching, took a frustrated guess and thankfully didn't blow it up---the next day this video was posted!
Never disconnecting the cable from the module is sound advice, but not always achievable. Sometimes it’s impossible to reach your hand into the back of the case with the cable attached to the module. And sometimes a cable won’t reach at all, so you have to swap it for a longer one. I’ve made a habit of always looking for markings on the PCB before disconnecting, though, and for those like Doepfer without markings, keep a Sharpie handy to make your own.
thanks for this very helpful indeed as lm moving modules about at this moment, l brought a jomox modbase09 but theres a confusing way to connect these when using tiptip power with flying ribbon cable same as in your video? it says to slice the notch off the connector which means connecting it the other way round on the flying cable? iv avoided doing this as not 100% confident that the connection to the actual module has to be turned also? so confusing iv had it over a year sitting in the box, daft l no but wasn't sure so avoided it and stayed with the hex drum, has anyone had to do this with there jomox? think jomox have changed this earlier connecting version to a more normal way now.
Eek, that sounds bananas - best to contact Jomox to get further clarification what to do rather than leaving it to chance or strangers on the internet!
@@mylarmelodies finally plucked the courage to slice off the sml part on the connector as it says in the manual and connected it to the flying bus cable reverse way round closed my eyes switched it on? now lm thumping that jomox sound : )
Alex! Great video, nice to see the basic stuff being covered so well. Ugghh, don't get me started on ribbon headers :O little tip I picked up along the way - most (if not all) IDC ribbon headers will have a small triangle in the moulding directly next to Pin 1, which should be the Red stripe side.
I plugged my joranalogue select 2 the wrong way and didn‘t even notice for a week. Until I plugged a cable in the module. The whole case got quiet. I was shocked. But everything seems to work as nothing has happened. Lesson learned!
At first sight, I thought the flaming Doepfer was real and not a composite VFX shot, but I don't see any plastic melting nor pieces falling away. Goodness you have salvaged some of the electronics for a homemade mult?
Just got my first Doepfer (A-140 ADSR, used) today. Now I really feel with you. I can't even find the information online. It is not in the module's pdf. WHERE IS THAT INFO? :/
Dave Smiths Curtis filter module was one that caught me out, once when I was moving modules about it not long after it was fitted correctly was the only module that doesn't have a notched end on it's ribbon connector and I forgot, plugged it in the wrong way, I use row power with flying bus cables as I think they are excellent, seemed to damage only the row power I had, the 5 volt light is out (I don't use it although it seems still work, probably not for 5 volt though). I always read the manuals and check when getting a new module, just for my own paranoid connection sanity.
FWIW I killed the A148 with the Row Power I show in the vid(!) In this instance it came down to the protection on the module end (or lack of, I should say)
if we cant trust the red stripe, how are we supposed to know which rail is which on a module if a given manufacturer only labels it as "red stripe" on the board?
The absolute MOST FRUSTRATING POWER ARCANA is that if your case has a power supply with a converter manufactured by Meanwell it will break the Rene Module from Make Noise and void the warranty. And if you think, well I've never heard of Meanwell, it must be some obscure brand, it's the converter that Intellijel and MDLRcase, Error instruments, and others use so you might have one and not know it. This is why you read the manual.
just came back to this video as I'm assembling my first rack (partly thanks to your vids) and i must've drank like 5 l of water while watching bc the amount of saltiness in this video is off the charts.
I bought a doepfer 9U case from someone in Seattle . This person, for whqtever reason , had one of the bus boards upside down to the other two . I was caught unaware as i had another 9U from doepfer and it wqs proper . Apparently this guy planned to build a bigger rack and use these bus boards and power then decided against it and put the middle bus board back in upside down and failed to mention it to me . Bottom line is check re check and then check again all the possible powering .
No not so lucky , burned a couple modules , they were easily fixed , but i was livid because a simple " heh man the middle bus board is upside down " would have been nice , Also i am not the kind of type to fix it myself , i need to ship them out .
Yes , it is ultimately my fault ,sort of , and it kinda of put me off the euro rack thing for awhile , but i licked my wounds and all is right with the world . ha ha ha
Well, actually, Doepfer invented Eurorack. So -12vDown rule is part of these modular, as important as 3U, the hp or where to set the holes (which manufacturers don’t obey as well). And it’s not on the modules’ manual because it’s on the System A-100. They made all the manuals like parts of a (very large nowadays) manual for the system. But... yeah, Eurorack is now bigger than his father and they should accept that they’re just another manufacturer for this system... AND JUST PUT A LITTLE RED LINE to indicate where -12 is. Thanks MM
I remember getting one of those massive manuals with my basic system years ago - explains all of this in detail. Doepfer has put markings on it's later modules since they're not always vertical due to having more condensed PCBs.
I just tripple checked my setup, first modular kit, don't want to fry it on my first shot... thanks for the vid, two of my modules say RED WIRE, but one of my modules just has a big + : /
This is the most passive aggressive video I have ever seen. Louis Rossman would be proud.
Let's pray that nobody got triggered and needs therapy now.
Rossman is into studio recording gear as well (mentioned in one of his videos).
haha of course i found fellow Rossman viewers here...
real talk, this is one of the scariest things about getting in to eurorack.
I totally second this. Power and cables were easily the most intimidating parts of getting into it for me as well.
i've built a few PC's in my short time here, but as i watch this waiting for my 6U case to show up; I'm terrified lol
I am just diving into Eurorack with about $3000 of modules on the way, and I had never seen anyone discuss power. Whew! Thanks in advance!
Lol good luck figuring all your modules out.
Dear sweet lord, you've spent $3000 to start? Have you considered this might be a tad brash?
Dont worry about the haters Michael. Youre good just go for it
I’m not a newbie to synths or music production, just to Eurorack. But I like diving in whole hog, and I’ve been watching lots of videos and planning out the rack for a while. I’m excited.
Well, alright. Good luck, then!
Thank you for this. I'm surprised at how rarely it seems to be covered in "getting started with eurorack" videos and guides.
What boggles my mind here is that 10 pin PCB headers for ribbon cables are EVERYWHERE. I've got a box full of them when building my DIY Midi2CV they're really hard to just buy one unit. So I don't get how every manufacturer doesn't just have a box of these in the corner of their factory. Finally it's quite easy to protect the circuit from reverse polarity. Again not doing both is a questionable choice especially for relatively expensive modules!!!
A spot of red nail polish on the -12v side of the pcb of any unshrouded header is a good idea if the orientation is in doubt.
I have done that too :-)
Good idea that, just permanently add in the missing info on the module!
oooh kinky
Your speaking voice is very entertaining. I understand this is not the point... but I’m hoping you won’t mind a little ego boosting. Going back to the subject at hand... If you save just one module... it’s all been worth it! I, being very new to modular... thank you.
Alex, thank you. I only received my first case (Rackbrute 6U) and my first 5 modules (Mutable Instruments Stages, Frames, Blinds, Marbles, and Links) just yesterday. The module ribbons were pre-plugged, but I checked the red stripe to -12V on the other end, even though the plugs could only go in one way. Everything is fine.
But I am so happy I saw this - THANK YOU - It could be the difference between ecstasy and sorrow someday down the line.
As always, we know who to turn to.
"This is Nam, there are no rules."
Don't know if he meant Vietnam, or the National Association of Music Merchants, but it works both ways.
omg preach - blowing a module with this simple mistake is horrendous. somebody needed to make a video like this for a long time - glad it was mylarmelodies
Man, don't even trust the mighty "The Definitive Connecting Power Thread" on Muff!!!! But must say, your advice on connecting Doepfers (and, yes, I have an a148 S&H!) is priceless! Their modules are a pain in the neck to connect and you always have to email Dieter about the right way on hooking them up - thanks a million for the video! One of your best! Essential!
You sir, are a bloody life saver. Just watched this, watched it again, went online to read the MN Morphagene manual (I know right?), ignored the forums, and I'm now the proud owner of a fully functioning module I have no clue how to use....it doesn't say in the manual you have to have balls of steel to operate this stuff...I owe you a pint, cheers bro.
I know it's an old vid but just bought my first modules and this is extremely helpful. Thanks a million!
I wish this video existed when I started out. Stressed me the hell out putting the system together for the first time
You and me both.
same
Nothing more tense than connecting a module - always sweat terribly when the time comes to turn the thing on - you never really know.....
especially considering you're often looking at frying $300+ with the flick of a switch...
This masterful presentation is doing the lord's work.
Rest in Piece Doepfer sample and hold 🙏🏻
bless you, Mylar. your pain is our gain. would've KILLED for a video like this when i was getting into eurorack years ago!
Thanks man! If I havent watched this video before yesterday, I would have burned a module. Very similar to what have happened to you, only difference was that what was facing the wrong side was the black plastic thing that conects to the case.
You saved my module. Cheers man.
This video is like when a celebrity gets busted for drunk driving and is ordered by the court to do a serious drunk driving PSA. Sobering. And appreciated. I've yet to kill a module, but have definitely rolled the dice a few times. 😬
Good timing releasing this video since I'm about to power up my new case for the first time tomorrow! Thanks for reminding me not to be too hasty in my excitement
Mylar, I watched your Intellijel Metropolis vid 4 years ago and thought "I'll never do that....". I picked up a mini doepfer box yesterday purely to power the Metropolis which arrived today. You're a dangerous man - but thank god for your videos. I'll read the manual now.
Modular satisfaction is a dish best served cold! 🙌
haha you animal.... I write acoustic stoner folk music, why the fk do I have this nonsense crazy sh!t in front of me?!? You, Mylar. That vid just sat in my brain for 4 years and now it's real. Genius.
I thought 30 minutes on plugging modules in? Who is this guy kidding? This is sage knowledge. Learn it!
I'm glad you're doing the video anyway, it's a good warning to all the newcomers, as well as a decent reminder.
I managed to fry a DIY project a long while ago, all because I accidently put a connector on backwards and didn't check it thoroughly before switching on the power.
Thanks for this. I've just take delivery of my first euro rack case, and two Doepfer modules. I've had slight anxiety about connecting them properly after reading people's horror stories. I'm still mildly anxious, but I have the tools now to hopefully not set fire to stuff! 🔥🔥🔥😂
Alex, this is God's work you're doing with this video, man. Also, additional note about unshrouded headers: I know all of this, and I STILL killed a module by not literally being able to see well enough by SKIPPING AN ENTIRE ROW OF PINS. Not offsetting, up or down, but side to side. BOOM, spark, smoke - luckily it was a single capacitor that blew (I found a chunk of it in the case later on). The Make Noise boards don't even have pins that go UPWARDS, like the Doepfers; they are parallel to the back of the case, making it even harder to align properly.
To augment your Doepfer shaming, I will go on record and shame Cwejman for his idiosyncratic use of the stripe. It's completely unacceptable.
yeah, seriously. that is a garbage design to pull on people who spend so much on such modules...
11:00 ... let the anger flow through you!
PS: love to hear „Schadenfreude“ from a non native speaker ;)
You spend a premium amount for a Cwejman and he dickishly decides to break convention. Fuck that guy and his modules, no matter how sweet they sound.
Well I actually hung out with Maho Cwejman herself this weekend and to their credit - she explained the reason they put red as "+" is because in electronics, red always means positive!! In that respect it is more logical than Doepfer. But unfortunately it's the opposite of the more widely-owned-and-traded brand. Bottom line is there are no standards, no 'rules' - the ultimate lesson of the video is 'be aware, be informed, and just triple check everything'. With that said, I do think Doepfer need to put a note about power info in each and every one of their module manuals.
Just seeing this, and even though I consider myself pretty vigilant in plugging in my modules, you have made me both paranoid and grateful. Checking all my connections this moment just to be sure. Thank you for the valuable tip and necessary lecture. Cheers
thanks. watching this video before plugging anything in convinced me to trade all my powered modules for passive ones. sorted.
I was rewatching this today and it’s very ironic because I just found out I had a Happy Nerding module connected backwards! Luckily, even though I’ve powered my case on with it installed wrong, it still works. Gotta had it to designers for including reverse power protection in modules more and more. Thank you for reminding me to always quadruple check my power connections!
Funny that...
The only module I ever fried was a Doepfer Wasp. It came from the shop with the cable wrong way around (the red...)
Luckily the thing that blew was a dual OpAmp with I replaced quick smart.
The lesson is:
1. Electrickery is made of smoke.
2. The smoke is kept in small back boxes with metal legs.
3. Once you release the smoke electrickery cannot work.
End of class.
Glad you opted for looking things over, rather than making a Yule Log video of your limping module! Too many people, faced with a module struggling, immediately give up and euthanize the poor thing.
eurorack fuses please
$100 each
They'd probably be bespoke and lovingly screen printed pieces of silly, silly art. I do love Eurorack.
The quality of your videos are top-notch. Greeting from Sweden! :)
Great video and can't be overstated how important this is. As a newbie, this is most valuable. Great teacher!!
I'm currently soldering up a DIY module, so this is super useful!
Thank you for this. I am about to get into eurorack for the first time. Having people like you willing to help newbies takes off a lot of the terrifying guess work. Oh and also your voice is like dark red velvet and toasted chestnuts.
Red stripe down is super handy for the 143-4 quad vco/vclfo where the power is horizontal.
Hahaha...eeeeeeexactly. Wow
Surprised they didn't add a stripe on that one. My A-110-4 has a horizontal header, but has an indicator for -12v.
This seemed like such a silly video. I know all of this, and I know power... BUT.... This was GREAT. Very in-depth and lots of info on various modules and manufacturers! I guess people in Euro come from all backgrounds, and this is wonderful advice. I have 2 modules that had zero cues on the boards, and only one of those had instructions in the manual, so I had to contact the manuf. for the other one. NBD people, don't lose your fabulous investments!
wow what a video, just answered every question i had about eurorack!
Thanks!
It's a good topic of conversation and it's definitely worth noting not to disconnect modules from the ribbon cable, ever! And check cable connection to module if you buy something second hand👍👍
So well done. And the Monty Python (or presumably some other nuanced English humour that reads as Monty Python to ‘this here’ American) section heading treatments are ACE.
Lightbath -- And now...... the larch. The...... Larch!
Very important advice. That's the problem with people who make products but don't know how to engineer properly (even those who ought to know better).
Bad news: Dead Module
Good news: Another Mylar episode.
DUUUUDE this video just saved me my first eurorack modul, a Soma Lyra 8 fx it came with a foulty cabel o.o I am forever in your debt thx ^-^
!!! 👍
you just saved me from plugging in the cables wrong!! thanks : )
I'm happy to say that all the modules I just bought have keyed sockets or "either way" power. Seems like things are getting a tad better on this front? Maybe not with Doepfer modules though 🙃
There's really zero excuse today for a manufacturer to not use keyed shrouds on headers and keyed IDC connectors.
The additional cost is trivial in manufacture and the maker gets it all back in customer goodwill on the 1st board which escapes release of the magic blue smoke.
Problem is that keyed shrouds lead people to trust that the cable itself is correct, which is dangerous. There's zero excuse for not having reverse polarity protection on modules though.
Personally I hate shrouds on power supplies. Bloody nightmare getting connectors out.
M Campbellell... problem??? If you supply a correct cable with the product and everybody uses cables of the same standard then the only people with problems will be those who try to use wrongly wired cables and Darwin takes care of those people pretty quickly. The computer industry went through this way back in the 70s. Some people paid attention to it. Apple for instance has been using shrouds in everything since 1979 and as a result during the 80s and 90s, Apple equipment didn't constantly end up in the shop with blown boards because of misaligned connectors like PC hardware did. The same is true for peripherals on all platforms. This isn't rocket science. I completely agree with you about polarity protection. A 2.2 ohm resistor on the rail feeds with reverse biased 1N5408s behind them should be a minimum. There's no reason people can't use polyfuses either.
MUNRO MUSIC, that's poppycock.
I've been using connectors like these www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=5103308-5 for 40 years.
The shroud makes zero, repeat *_ZERO_* difference unless you try to plug into it backwards.
There are plenty of deep shrouds with eject levers too if you want that. They used to be the absolute standard across the computer industry in the 70s.
Came here to say the same thing. It's baffling why every eurorack producer doesn't do this by default.
I had a similar story of totally annihilating a module... I'm actually going into the long and treacherous process of designing and making my own modules, and the first thing i'm doing is making sure as hell that every one of my modules has reverse power protection... phew!
I’ve done this loads of times but everything just flashes so I turn it off. I have the tip-top station 252 case and I think it might have its own protection built in?
FYI, the PSU3 power supply from doepfer actually gives you +5v nowadays. The old ones indeed didn't gave +5v and you had to install a small converter.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I have been a fan and follower of yours for a long time, and love your content. I also listen to and love your podcast. Anyway, this video was so helpful to me as I just successfully added my first module to my Make Noise Shared System. All went well thanks to your guidance. Much appreciated!
Thanks m8, glad to have you listening and watching!! 👍
As a newbie: this was incredibly great advice! Thanks!
found myself back at this episode after I accidentally unplugged my ribbon cable from my a124 wasp filter and saw no marking on the pcb and nothing in the manual. thanks again for this!!!
First module I ever plugged in was the wrong orientation. It went 💥. Cwejman modules can be any orientation without blowing them - which is great!
the first module I ever bought came to me with the cable connected to the module wrongly. I had no idea, and connected it but nothing happened. Lucky though no damage was done. When I figured out it was the wrong way around, I turned it around and it worked. So poo poo to Vintage King Audio, and horary for Pittsburgh Modular Waveforms!
Dopefer sound when red goes down, dopefer explodes when red uploads.
Boom, fixed you mnemonic
You are so pissed 😂
I totally get it. Thank you for the great guide!
Thx ! Basic info - feel better knowing this before installing $$$ modules. Most brands are fail proof, but some are not ! Cwejman for example !
I just got a video synth and it looks something like this. It has a FC-16p and I have no clue where to plug it in to power it. Can anyone help?
What part of "dont ask the internet" did you not understand? Check the manual and if it doesnt tell you what to do email the manufacturer directly and ask them to walk you through it.
@@SorchaSublime don’t ask the Internet? What?
@@lllacefield the internet is not a magic box that answers questions, if you ask the internet a question a human person will respond. That human person can be (and often is) incorrect. Don't trust random people for information. Consult the manufacturer either via the manual or directly.
@@SorchaSublime my mans,
Way too much energy being put into your replies with no actual answer 😪
Someone else helped in the comments.
Thanks anyway
@@lllacefield dont trust the person who helped. Ignore everything that they said. Pretend that they do not exist and either follow the manual or if the manual doesnt tell you what to do EMAIL THE MANUFACTURER DIRECTLY. Assume that everyone else is wrong even if they are right, the manufacturer is the only person you should pay attention to.
This video is sponsored by Red Stripe. Providing alcoholic consolation to those who fry their modules since 1928
What about tragedies on the front of the panel? Connecting input to input, output to output, connecting Buchla to eurorack, banana into 1/8", Buchla output to eurorack output, adding splitters in the mix to the previously stated mistakes potentially compounding problems, etc. I think I fried a microphone once by plugging the mic into the input of a feedback loop guitar pedal called Eye of God (I'm pretty sure it was plugged in correctly) I think the power somehow went backwards and turned the mic into a speaker.
Also wondering what you think about preventing fire risks in the studio and what to do if one does occur, like what type of extinguisher won't ruin adjacent gear while still being effective. I've also heard that lead-free solder can lead to fires because it grows dendrites over time that can cause short circuits. You never really know if there was repair on used gear done with this kind of solder. There have been quite a few studios burn down but I'm not sure what the common element has been.
Also wondering what happens when CV is plugged into audio, audio into CV. I've heard that the results differ between modules from nothing to destruction. There are so many modules that don't label in's and out's, some just print funny symbols on their panels and expect you to figure it out. Once you start messing with things like 5 way cable splitters partially connected to other 5 way cable splitters I can imagine it gets to be a lot to keep track of to make sure you don't destroy 10 modules with 1 dumb cable mistake.
RoboticusMusic In Euro at least (and I think pretty much everything except Buchla), there’s really no distinction between audio and CV. The only real patching danger is an out to an out and even then most modules are protected against that.
Yeah none of the front panel stuff should have much of an effect, you'd have to be _really_ trying, to break something that way (Using a multiple to sum 5 10V signals to a tender input somewhere else...etc)
And even with that, I *think* you can never get above the 12 V rail voltage.
Use a multimeter in conductive mode to check your cable orientation
Can you try replacing that TL064 chip?
Yeah I swapped it out for a TL074. It lights up now but doesn’t operate correctly
:(
@@mylarmelodies Replace all the ICs. They all have power pins so they are possibly all damaged even if they didn't crack, especially the switch chip. Don't think there's anything else in the A148 that is likely to be damaged.
@@petewallis3756 This was my thought too. The ICs seem pretty cheap on that module so it's worth a shot.
Thanks a lot for the video. I have quite a lot of Doepfer modules and have learned the down is -12v / red stripe trick too. But i have also plugged them the wrong way round and i am lucky enough to have not blown any of the up. I have Doepfer psu3's in home made cases and all the lights on the modules flash on and off if the power connector is the wrong way round and no magic smoke so far i'm not sure if this is a reflection of some kind of protection the psu3's or not? Did you say you replaced the TLO74 and no luck? I have the A-148 as well and you could try replacing the other chips and the only other things i can see that might blow are the two capacitors near the power connector and there's a diode in the middle. Fairly cheap components mostly probably about 5 to 10 pounds? Anyway thanks again for the important video and the amusing intros. Take it easy.
The PSU3 has some form of basic reverse protection, PSU2 doesn't. Similar experience to you if I plugged something in wrong - lights flash, case goes off and no module is damaged.
Cool we both made the right choice with the psu3! Heard off Muffwiggler they had a good reputation i'm really glad i went for it. Hope you never experience the magic smoke. Take it easy
thank you for this wonderful explanation!
hi ive got an oakley hvm module with a strange 5 pin power -any ideas on what to do with it-ive not got a manual
excellent tutorial. I try to run this in the background while I unbox a new unit.
So i got the A-148 today (btw they added the word RED on the pcb so u know what way to plug the wire) i plugged it in correctly and it worked fine. But then i turned off my rackbrute and the power supply just didnt turn off. The modules plugged in past it did but I could definitely smell something heating up somewhere. So ive now added “make sure your case turns off normally” to my list of things to do when i get a new module.
I had this exact issue with a Doepfer module I just got, and before plugging it in I scoured the net for answers, found all conflicting answers after 30 minutes of searching, took a frustrated guess and thankfully didn't blow it up---the next day this video was posted!
Never disconnecting the cable from the module is sound advice, but not always achievable. Sometimes it’s impossible to reach your hand into the back of the case with the cable attached to the module. And sometimes a cable won’t reach at all, so you have to swap it for a longer one. I’ve made a habit of always looking for markings on the PCB before disconnecting, though, and for those like Doepfer without markings, keep a Sharpie handy to make your own.
thanks for this very helpful indeed as lm moving modules about at this moment, l brought a jomox modbase09 but theres a confusing way to connect these when using tiptip power with flying ribbon cable same as in your video? it says to slice the notch off the connector which means connecting it the other way round on the flying cable? iv avoided doing this as not 100% confident that the connection to the actual module has to be turned also? so confusing iv had it over a year sitting in the box, daft l no but wasn't sure so avoided it and stayed with the hex drum, has anyone had to do this with there jomox? think jomox have changed this earlier connecting version to a more normal way now.
Eek, that sounds bananas - best to contact Jomox to get further clarification what to do rather than leaving it to chance or strangers on the internet!
@@mylarmelodies yes its quite a bizarre way to connect a module, keep up the good work love your sound
@@mylarmelodies finally plucked the courage to slice off the sml part on the connector as it says in the manual and connected it to the flying bus cable reverse way round closed my eyes switched it on? now lm thumping that jomox sound : )
What do you do for modules that do not show how to connect them in the manual like Malekko modules?
Contact them via email, tell them to tell you and to update their manuals
Thank you for doing this. It really helped me.
Alex! Great video, nice to see the basic stuff being covered so well. Ugghh, don't get me started on ribbon headers :O little tip I picked up along the way - most (if not all) IDC ribbon headers will have a small triangle in the moulding directly next to Pin 1, which should be the Red stripe side.
Funny told very important modular topic. Thanks mate!
I plugged my joranalogue select 2 the wrong way and didn‘t even notice for a week. Until I plugged a cable in the module. The whole case got quiet. I was shocked. But everything seems to work as nothing has happened. Lesson learned!
Thank you so much for making this video I would have blown half of my system up the first time I turn it on.
At first sight, I thought the flaming Doepfer was real and not a composite VFX shot, but I don't see any plastic melting nor pieces falling away. Goodness you have salvaged some of the electronics for a homemade mult?
My newer Doepfer A148 has "RED LINE" and white markings at the bottom pin.
its ok to work with 12v 1000mA Power Supply ?
Better to not ask the internet, instead ask the manufacturer! 👌
Some of these manufacturers aren't even consistent within their own collection!
Just got my first Doepfer (A-140 ADSR, used) today. Now I really feel with you. I can't even find the information online. It is not in the module's pdf. WHERE IS THAT INFO? :/
Correct orientation is explained here - they line up with the polarity of the bus board:
www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm
Doepfer outlines it all on their website. Annoying that it isn't on the PCBs, sure, but it's not exactly blind guessing.
a product should be usable without using external resources, no exceptions.
Dave Smiths Curtis filter module was one that caught me out, once when I was moving modules about it not long after it was fitted correctly was the only module that doesn't have a notched end on it's ribbon connector and I forgot, plugged it in the wrong way, I use row power with flying bus cables as I think they are excellent, seemed to damage only the row power I had, the 5 volt light is out (I don't use it although it seems still work, probably not for 5 volt though). I always read the manuals and check when getting a new module, just for my own paranoid connection sanity.
FWIW I killed the A148 with the Row Power I show in the vid(!) In this instance it came down to the protection on the module end (or lack of, I should say)
yeah, pretty much can't do about that if there is no protection.
I just bought a Doepfer module for my completely new rack! 😅
if we cant trust the red stripe, how are we supposed to know which rail is which on a module if a given manufacturer only labels it as "red stripe" on the board?
Follow the flying busboard to the source, where the red stripe should be marked/indicated. Same on PCB boards, -12V should be marked.
By the way… if you get a Doepfer A 118-2 the “red stripe down” doesnt apply because the power header is horizontal.
😮💨
Oh, mate, the Fizzle Guts. Please do a demo on that one. I want one badly but can´t get a hold of one.
Nice one . only just getting going with modular and as far as i could find no one really tells you how to plug them in and what to watch for ....
The absolute MOST FRUSTRATING POWER ARCANA is that if your case has a power supply with a converter manufactured by Meanwell it will break the Rene Module from Make Noise and void the warranty. And if you think, well I've never heard of Meanwell, it must be some obscure brand, it's the converter that Intellijel and MDLRcase, Error instruments, and others use so you might have one and not know it. This is why you read the manual.
just came back to this video as I'm assembling my first rack (partly thanks to your vids) and i must've drank like 5 l of water while watching bc the amount of saltiness in this video is off the charts.
Hah, I hope at least no burnouts, just excess sodium
@@mylarmelodies nope, all good! all thanks to you!
I bought a doepfer 9U case from someone in Seattle . This person, for whqtever reason , had one of the bus boards upside down to the other two . I was caught unaware as i had another 9U from doepfer and it wqs proper . Apparently this guy planned to build a bigger rack and use these bus boards and power then decided against it and put the middle bus board back in upside down and failed to mention it to me . Bottom line is check re check and then check again all the possible powering .
WTF, that’s an accident waiting to happen - lucky nothing burned
No not so lucky , burned a couple modules , they were easily fixed , but i was livid because a simple " heh man the middle bus board is upside down " would have been nice , Also i am not the kind of type to fix it myself , i need to ship them out .
Oh fuck. What a bell end!
Yes , it is ultimately my fault ,sort of , and it kinda of put me off the euro rack thing for awhile , but i licked my wounds and all is right with the world . ha ha ha
what if a module is +12 volts?
had the same problem with my doepfer s&h - ordered a new logic ship at mouser for 1,50€ et voila, no paperweight
anymore.
Is that your A148 on the fire?
Well, actually, Doepfer invented Eurorack. So -12vDown rule is part of these modular, as important as 3U, the hp or where to set the holes (which manufacturers don’t obey as well). And it’s not on the modules’ manual because it’s on the System A-100. They made all the manuals like parts of a (very large nowadays) manual for the system. But... yeah, Eurorack is now bigger than his father and they should accept that they’re just another manufacturer for this system... AND JUST PUT A LITTLE RED LINE to indicate where -12 is. Thanks MM
I remember getting one of those massive manuals with my basic system years ago - explains all of this in detail.
Doepfer has put markings on it's later modules since they're not always vertical due to having more condensed PCBs.
So what you're saying is that I should DM your Instagram when I can't find out how to plug in my module?
Did it with my slew limiter from Doepfer...fixed it easily. Keyed sockets FTW! Especially when a tad pissed. Red stripe up. Oopps...;-)
Very good points!!!
I only burned out one Maths do to watching this video, thanks!
I just tripple checked my setup, first modular kit, don't want to fry it on my first shot... thanks for the vid, two of my modules say RED WIRE, but one of my modules just has a big + : /
thanks a lot for the helpful video