How to Make and Fit Custom Bulkheads S3-E10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2023
- Boat Builder, Bob Emser makes and fits custom bulkheads in a new way.
As the 9' dinghy project for Steve Denette's tender Victoria progresses we see the bulkheads being make and fitted. Using recycled Cedar and Mahogany from a 100 year old, boat panels are made for the bulkheads.
In addition Bob uses Peel Ply fro the first time. See what he learns about its application with epoxy resin.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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Watch next
Recommended Playlists
Building Victoria. Arabella's Tender
• Season 3 - Victoria
Carvel Planking Playlist:
• Carvel Planking
Haven 12 1/2 Playlist:
• Season 2 - Haven 12 1/2
Tool Making:
• Tool Making
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#theartofboatbuilding #artofboatbuilding #makeitbeautiful#woodenboatbuilding #buildingasmallboat #buildingasailboat #shipwright #toolbuilding #Haven12 #herreshoff #shipwright - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Beautiful indeed Mr. Emser! I am so happy that You are building Victoria, Arabella's tender! I've been watching Steve and the crew since the beginning and look forward to seeing the two come together. But then again, that's going to be a sad day as it will signify coming toward the end of the build process. I look forward to the new episode of each channel every week. Be safe, stay healthy and keep making it beautiful.
Love watching Victoria coming together.
Bob, Russ Morash just brought back old episodes of the New Yankee Worksop with Norm on YT. I think you are the Norm of boat building!
Thanks Bill!
Another great episode from the Art of Boat Building by Bob. Your attention to detail and explanation of the nuances of the steps you are executing for each task are a joy to watch and learn. Great progress and thanks for sharing!
The calm and thoughtful way of working is what is so attractive. A master at work.
Great the way you’re recycling all of Victoria’s Timbers
Bob, a man of many clamps.
And never enough!
This is one project I’d never attempt. You make it look easy with your skills. Can’t wait to see the finished boat.
Looks wonderful!!
Superb detail in your planning and building. Skill, patience, and planning are making this, like your other projects, works of art.
Coming along nicely…🇨🇦
i just thought i'd stop by and see how the tender is coming on, great to see this, as i am a big fan of the 'Acorn to Arabella' Channel - its an odd thing, i'm not into boats really or even making things from wood but appreciate all the hard work that goes into building them, perhaps its the use of ancient crafts i like, i will literally watch these videos for hours and hours and get so much pleasure from them, another great channel to watch is 'Sailing Yaba' this boat is being built in an old yard in Brazil by the owners and their team of old boys with much knowledge and the most basic of rudimentary tools, its been great watching
Welcome I'm glad you've stopped by. Yes, SY is on my short list as well.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Watching Bob fine tune the bulkheads to the station molds, I reminded myself of this perspective. The molds lifted off the lofting floor, which came from an offset table derived from a half hull model, that was imagined from two different plans. Such a wonder.
MIB, making it beautiful for all to see.
AS always you make it seem so straightforward and simple, no matter what your doing there Bob.
Bob you are a true craftsman and I can see that Victoria will be a worthy tender for Steve to own and use.
tank you
Fine video as always! As for the daggerboard, it will eventually hit bottom, sooner or later. I hope the gables are flat, since I once lent a plastic dinghy, a Laser, and its daggerboard always stuck when hit something. The only way to loosen it, was from leaning the boat and apply some pressure from underside. The aft edge was formed like aeroplan wing, so it always stuck. As for the lower, forward corner of Victoria´s daggerboard,it could be protected with a u-formed bent beam of alu or stainless metal. Personally I own a Finn dinghy since ca 50 year, whos 8 mm centerboard is hinged and will move backward and up, if hit something. A very good solution. Kind regards from a frosty Sweden....
Simply awesome!!! Making something from basically scraps watching and learning.
You are definitely making it "beautiful!"
Amazing work, Bob! It's fantastic how the fiberglass ends up transparent! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
It is really cool to see the first official permanent part of the boat to be set in place. Thanks for another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
As always another relaxing and educational video. Thank you Bob. Have a great week ahead.
watching Bob reminds me of my father - methodical, deliberate, careful - with a unique ability to explain things in simple terms - a teacher
Thank you Rick.
Beautiful work.
Enjoyed watching, as always...rr
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and your skills.
Always look forward to your videos. I iron my peel ply with a warm household iron set to synthetic or a little warmer. I use polyester peel ply, but would guess it would work for nylon also. A bit of a pain, but gets rid of the wrinkles.
Hi David,
Just today I was using peel ply on the transom. The idea of ironing had occurred to me so I gave it a try. My shop iron is quite old so no settling marks. It didn’t take to long to play with settings to get the temperature right. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for your message. Happy to hear you have been successful with a iron. Like mines!!
Thanks for watching
Cheers,
Bob
How refreshing to have an explanation without an annoying background drum or musak sound track.
Thanks!
Thanks for specifying that the epoxy "cures" instead of "drying" like so many others do. Great work, as always!
Absolutely beautiful work! Love watching this build come together!
Thanks for the video really informative
I love the progress. Thank you for sharing.😀😀
You are so welcome!
Good stuff.
The main thing I've learned about boat building is have a warehouse full of clamps you can never have enough.
Good stuff Bob! I haven't used peel ply so that was interesting. good luck with the 5200. There is no way to apply that without getting all over myself. It's like wearing a brand new tie to a spaghetti dinner.
Toujours parfait . Bonjour de France ,Cordialement
merci beaucoup
Fabuleu j apprend beaucoup avec vous merci message de france bien a vous
merci beaucoup
💙
Great episode, Bob. I have never used peel ply. In the application you used to see how it goes, you would have been fine without it, I guess? I have much to learn.
Me too Brian. Thanks for coming along on my journey.
👍
You make it look easy but I know it’s not. Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Great video Bob, looking like you are doing a first class job on that boat. I was wondering how you were going to attach the dagger board trunk and then you said you are going to use 3M 5300, I have only used 3M 5200 one time and I will say wear gloves, that stuff will stick to you and not let go. Thank you for the lesson on the use of peel ply , I have heard of it but never used it.
Hi Tom,
Thank you I appreciate your comment.
I’ve used 5200 many times on my Haven. You are correct it is sticky stuff. I’ve taken to wearing gloves when working with any type of adhesive/ glue.
Thanks for your support!
Bob
Well, it's certainly going to be beautiful. All very interesting, thank you. Do you have any estimate of the final weight (excluding spars, sails, oars, dagger board etc. i.e. what he will have to lift on to Arabella)?
No idea of the weight yet. Steve will use the boom as jib crane to lift the dinghy in and out of the water.
Still working to keep the weight as low as possible.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
I got introduced to peal ply a couple of years ago, the ridges from the fold creases are always a bit of a pain. It would be nice to buy it on a roll rather than folded (or maybe you can but there are limited options here in NZ
I believe it can be purchased on a roll. My plan is to roll it up on a tune and wrap it with shrink wrap. I’d happily take any suggestions.
Thanks for watching!
Not sure where in NZ you live Russell, I am in Hamilton and buy peel ply from the local marine outlets, I take a cardboard tube with me and roll it onto it, I won' buy from places that fold it into a bag for shipping, the same goes for fibreglass and carbon cloth, I have kept the cardboard tubes from previous purchases of fibreglass, if you are in the Auckland region then I would recommend NZ Fibreglass 109 Morrin Road, St Johns, Auckland 1072
When ordering any cloth’s ask for it on a roll or a tube so it doesn’t crease.
Hi Andrew, Great suggestion. The Peel Ply I have was purchased several years ago when I was building the Tenderly Dinghy (CLC kit). Mainly purchase a small amount to try out and just never did. It of course was folded in a package. I sure setting on a shelf for 4 years didn't help. I will roll it on a tube to see if I can work the creases out. Any suggestions on how to smooth out what I have are welcome.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Sorry Bob I usually just use small folded bits on hidden areas. In fact I’ve just done a couple and I’m going to use a high-solids undercoat to fill the dip and sand it carefully.
Also i forgot to add that once I peel the ply I usually add a further sealer/fill coat of partly thickened epoxy to get around the dips etc. If you need to butt or overlap two pieces of glass cloth, run your peelply over and it will almost disappear the lump/dip.
You haven't glued together yet, so just wondering if you're going to paint the inside of the daggerbiard trunk?
Yes
Beautiful work as always. One question occurs to me and that is, won’t you have trouble with all the grain running at 90 degrees to each other? Seems to me the veneers would tear apart when immersed. Am I missing something?
Hi Peter,
The opposing grain makes the panel stronger and more stable. These bulkheads are apart of the interior and therefore will not be immersed in water. The panels will be coated with 3 coats of epoxy, so even in the event of the boat getting swamped they will be protected.
Cheers,
Bob
Bob. The way in which your planing those nice looking diagonal edges on those scrap pieces of wood with your bare hand looks a bit dicey to me. I don't want to think what might actually happen if either the block plane or wood strip were to slip out of position. However I do understand the importance of being able to 'feel' what your hands are actually doing.
Gluing with white pvc or polyurethan ?? Not very commonly used in Europe. Works well in wet conditions? I like Your workshop , clean like an hospital.
Titebond III is a waterproof glue.
Thanks, I do my best to keep the shop cleaned up and tools put away each day. I find I’m more productive and inspired to work each morning.
What planet are you from man?
A bit off topic here, but how did you come by your unisaw, and how do you like it?
Good morning Maria. If you're looking for user reports on the Unisaw-I bought mine new around 1999 with the same fence as Bob's-It was also available with a Biesemeyer fence and it is great!! I added a 48" x 30" outfeed table, extended the miter slots, and added a zero clearence blade insert Have had zero issues with it since it's purchase. It's built like a tank and the 3 H.P. motor has never bogged. Of course I have the blades sharpened periodically. I received a Rockler table saw alignment gauge for Christmas (Item #66646). The blade was dead nuts square. The fence was .005 out. Adjusting it back to square was a 1 minute operation. If I was buying a new cabinet saw today I would buy a SawStop-about $4K for the 3HP model. As Bob correctly says-"If you're going to make it, make it beautiful." I would add, "And make it safely."
I had purchased a UniSaw in the early 1990's for the college sculpture department I taught in.
I purchased mine in 1995 when I left teaching as I liked to saw very much. It's been a great saw and with routine maintenance it's served me well.
Cheers,
Bob
I was reminded of your tag-line "if you are going to make it make it beautiful" when I met with my major professor on my PHD project last week. He commented that the device I'm building (a float for collecting GPS locations on water) was beautiful. I'm my own worst critic so I'm not quite so sure.
A question, I think I recall at some point some comments on the tender weight in terms of getting it on/off the Arabella. However, looking at the tender so far my sense without any context is that this tender will weigh a lot and will require some sort of mechanical mechanism to make it possible for two people to get it on/off the Arabella. I'm certain this has been a topic of discussion with you and Steve, but I'm wondering what the plan is for doing this. I can imagine a lot of methods myself, but I'm curious about the plan. Just curious.
Hi Doug,
Sounds like your professor is an astute person!
Good question on getting Victoria on and off the cabin top. The simple answer is that Steve and crew will use the boom as a jib crane, lift and lower it.
This won’t be a daily occurrence. Once at port the tender will stay in the water. And for cruising be towed behind. Victoria will only be stowed away on long sailing journeys.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Do you actually use that DN behind you?
That’s the plan. I did a quick section on it in my last video S3-E9. The DN was built by my friend Steve C. He built is when he was 15 years old in 1955. It went into storage for nearly 60 years. Steve would like to get it back on the ice this winter. We set it up to fix and make sure everything worked. New line, new blades etc. The winter here has been too mild for good ice so we may be heading to MN in a few weeks.
Stay turn I’ll have a video on the DN’s adventures.
How is this tender going to be lifted off and on the Arabella?
The boom for the main sail will be used as a jib crane.
Thanks for watching.
Bob
If you use 207 Special clear hardener, it does not create amine blush. Save you the step of peel-ply
Honestly, I use TotalBoat products and I've never had an issue with amine blush. I purchased the Peel Ply several years ago and was mostly interested it testing it out. My main interest is getting the smooth surface it creates (Amine Blush removal is a bonus).
Even those products labeled as 'amine blush free' or 'no blush formula' are best washed. It is always a good practice to wash the cured epoxy with clean warm water, soap, and a stiff brush or Scotch-Brite pad it's the only way to completely remove it.
Thanks for watching!
ob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thanks for the reply! When I built my cedar strip canoe I didn’t get any blush at all with 207, just sharing my experience :)
Why use 5200 for the dagger board case instead of epoxy?
Hi Hans,
5200 remains flexible. Given that the boat will be beached and riding on Arabelle's deck I believe it's a good choice. 5200 is formulated to provide an exceptionally strong solution for marine conditions, as well as flexibility that combats vibrations, swelling, shrinking or shock.
Huh I've never heard of those plastic nails. They seem like a great idea for something like this. Do you have issues with them breaking going in on harder woods?
Hi Alexander,
I haven’t tried them on hardwood. I’ll test them out on some Oak this week.
Cheers,
Bob
Can’t believe it’s taken over 100 years to build this sailboat. They built it wrong the first time, everyone been arguing about it for all these years, now finally they hired this guy to actually build it correctly. Incredibly inefficient use of materials.
👍