my current ride is a 1972 FUJI finest. 650B x42 tires, ultegra 9 speed. been my favorite bike ive ever owned. done multiple centuries on it and my last one i average 17mph with 5k of climbing. ive also done 100 plus miles on it with 60% off road surfaces. sure its 30 lbs but its the most comfortable bike ive ever owned. long chainstays, ishiwata 022 double butted chromoly and a low trail tange fork. i could go on how much i love this bike.
I have a 1989 Peugeot 14 speed that I converted to a Ultegra 6700 group set and a set of Mavic Cosmic wheels. Lost about 4lbs by switching to a hollowtech BB, lighter components and the wheels especially. Real sweet ride, especially after I started using Latex tubes.
I bought a complete original 1980 Motobecane (Vitus 888 tubing) to fill the hole in my heart over my '79 being stolen many years ago. It's fully and lovingly restored now and not "worth" the money and time I have in it to anyone but me. Had I not been on this particular quest, I would have bought something Italian or English and modernized it. I might still do that in the coming year.
@@thegoodwheel Thanks. The dastardly deed was done way back in the late 80s, and I've searched off and on for another Grand Sprint, advertised as training bike and thus affordable for a poor undergrad, ever since. The original paint was not the same color as mine (changed from '79 to '80) and was a bit rougher than I cared for. Plus, the decals were a hot mess. After an hour or so of faffing with paint removal I decided my remaining time on Earth was too valuable for the effort, I had it glass blasted and (shudder) powder coated in a non-Motobecane color then applied reproduction decals. Since the bike will see little road use, and none in bad weather, this finish will last forever. For a bike with low panache and limited collector value even if original, I'd choose powder coat again in a heart beat.
@@SMidberg Left-threading, yes. I didn't do a thread count since the original parts the the shell were in excellent condition. I don't think finding new cups would have been overly difficult, but they probably would be expensive.
Thank you so much, it is so good to feel among like minded people. I recently “restomod” a Gitane 1979 steel Vitus frame. I was after a Reynolds 531, but found this Vitus 971 and fell for it. What a joy the project was, the choosing, selecting, mounting and finally riding. Steel is special, but when it is your unique bike after having had a previous story, it feels special. Looking forward to next videos, thank you and keep going Luis.
Ditto, a couple of years ago I bought from a old widow a cherry Gitane cycles "Super Corsa", with the super vitus 980 frame and 971 chrome fork,I converted it to modern components, new bottom bracket, and wheels/ tires because the tubular tires were no longer available.short modern cranks for my fit,and a quill ,stem,and modern bars for comfort and Fit.She old ,1980 ,Fast and Sexy 😂,Oh and I almost forgot I was also able to fit 700x28c tires on her,. In fact just tonight I pulled her down from her stagged position in my Mancave and gave her a quick polish for a ride in the morning 😊
Concerning spreading a 126 to 130mm, 70's / 80's COLUMBUS SL or SP this would be it for me for re-spacing perhaps COLUMBUS SLX / TSX this would be the line for me. Tube sets later than these are on the brittle side and I have seen seat stays bridges pop loose. Reynolds frames I've done TONS of frameset mostly 531 / 525 and Reynolds 653, and forget about spreading 753 and above. Due note: when spreading the frame, the drop-out will also need to be squared off, if not the you may run into axle problems, if the drop-outs are not square when closing the QR you have uneven pressure from the face of the drop-out to the face of the lock nut, end game, bowing of the axle and sometimes ending up with broken axles. I will know this only because I've had a few customers who had this problem, one customer was crying, because he has been breaking roughly 2 axles per year this went on for 2 or 3 years, He said he had this other shop install a newer group set on his BENOTTO 3000 and ever since then he has been dealing with this axle problem, and the shop that did the work they had no clue. So it was my turn to work on his rig, the minute I popped that wheel off, I already knew the problem, I checked the spacing and it was jerry rigged to128mm without squaring off the drop-outs and the rear triangle was also out of alignment this is what happens when a shop thinks that they can do this type of framework, so it was my turn with this bicycle, when all said and done the broken axle problem was gone. Also note: 70's and 80's ITALIAN made frames that was produced in the 70's and 80's COLUMBUS SL and SP frames will mostly be be with the same COLUMBUS frame sticker, Frameset above 58cm are most likely built with SP meaning the size of the seat post in need will be 27.0, if the frame size will be smaller then the seat post size will be 27.2. Sizing thing was recommendations from COLUMBUS and most frame builders/ brands built their frames accordingly. I had a customer who called and asked if I can hone and clean his seat tube because his 27.2 seat post will not fit, so he brought in his frame and it was a 59mm I said this frame requires a 27.0 he said the other shop said it needs a 27.2, this other shop sent him to me because they didn't have to tools to clean out his seat tube, another shop that was totally clueless. BTW: All COLNAGO frames was built with COLUMBUS SL Bad Italian paint jobs from the 80's this was normal, the CIOCC was distributed by 10 speed drive all of their ITALIAN frame that was imported unpainted, paint then was applied in the U.S.A. Frame sizing, most Italian made frames from 70's to 90's less COLNAGO will measure from center to center, all other frames ENGLISH, JAPANESE and FRENCH will measure center to top. On another note, a custom built basic tig welded steel frame can be had from Jeff Lyon at Lyon sport / Grants pass Oregon for roughly $ 1,200.00. Hope this helps!
Cecile absolute masterclass thank you, extensive knowledge learned over years, the result of hard graft, and generously passed on. A true mechanic’s mechanic……. My greatest thanks and respect 🎩 👍
The Moots frame arrived (what I would call modern vintage - 2006 manuf) and I built it up with a selection of parts and refreshed the decals. Yes it’s not steel but it’s a beautiful ride and I bet rides exactly the same today if not better with a new fork and modern components than when it was first made! Thank you for the inspiration & loving the content!
I own a 1985 Schwinn Paramount Waterford. Absolutely fantastic ride. And have most modern components from 90s and early 2000 s. Wheels are the biggest change.
In my last year of high school (1978) I commuted in deep rural NorCal on a Peugeot PX10, drawn to sew-ups by another "misfit" friend one year ahead of me. I left the country in the '80s, and returned to biking much later in Japan, picking up a used Campy road bike in Columbus tubing by Dioss. I recently refurbished it after a few years in storage. I don't race, but just love being on the road again. No feeling like it. Thanks for your work on the channel!
Nicely done Luis! I have a an old Bianchi from 85-86 I need to do a bike profile on my channel. FYI - since you mentioned Bottecchia I am a Bottecchia dealer and they still make Steel bikes all day long with chrome forks, chainstays and seat stays. I’m also a Tommasini dealer I own a Tecno and an X-Fire (stainless XCR) but they make steel bikes. I mention this, so that your viewers know that you can get modern steel alloys - with threadless forks custom geometry custom paint all day long. Without having to wonder if there’s corrosion on the inside of these late 1980s frames. You never know how how abused they have been during their lifespan of 40 years!
Thank you for sharing that George. I really appreciate you sharing that insight. Please post your store details. I will also mention this on my next video. I have desired a Bottecchia Legendaria for some time now.
About 12 years ago I bought a lugged steel Specialized Allez from mid 1980's. I'm a recreational rider, not a racer, did centuries and a Brevet on it. It rode amazingly smooth and had a 6 speed indexed downtube Shimano shifter. I modernized the wheels, bars, and saddle. I put a compact double and found a wider range 6 sp freewheel (I ride in an area with lots of long climbs). If you're on more of a budget don't overlook the more common brands.
Every since I had did some club racing back in the 80's, my bikes have been steel. My team club racing bike back then was a Scapin with Columbus SLX tubing. It road beautifully. I also had a Tange Prestige Specialized Allez which was amazing also. I'm presently in pursuit of a steel Columbus Colnago Master my dream bike.
Got a kick out of you clicking on a LeMond Zurich! I bought a late 90’s Zurich off eBay over 20 years ago. Built it with all used Ultega and a few Campy parts. Only new purchase was the Bontrager wheelset. Still riding it today.
Love the video common sense how to buy what to pay where to look i think most older riders will want the full bike purchase because the buy a frame then the accessories means a garage plus a workshop area ,i show all our young team your videos and its nice to know you are looked upon with great respect Luis Thank you.
Thanks, great video. I found my niche in the 70 and 80's Trek. I have one in Columbus and the rest are Reynolds and one Ishiwata. I also have a Miyata in spiral triple butted, and others in Tange and Ishiwata,. They all ride so smooth and I would have a hard time picking a favorite. I have cold set one frame and it turned out ok but the 79 Trek 930 is Columbus and I had my local frame guy spread it and then had it repainted. The other items I look for are a lightweight wheel set. Its a fascinating hobby and I think I enjoy wrenching as much as riding. Keep the video's coming.
I'm running a 531C track frame with a steel retro stem mated to a wide road bar. Got new hubs, spokes, and Campy Velocity tubular rims to complete a 'new to me' wheel-set. Recovering well from my open heart surgery, and I expect to start riding in early autumn. Keep up the excellent video content :)
I would add a few things, year range 85 to 95 because of the material advancement, don't forget Tange Japan tubing, weight must be less than 20lbs complete, look for a vintage road bike in Craig list or other local media for the thrill of a bargain find, and for sizing look for the head tube length (saves you time). I am 5'5" and I look for the shortest one from the images posted and skip the others. Thank you for this video, like minds always stick together. I have shown to my kids one of your videos where you talk about the feelings of the bike proving I am not the only one nuts about old steel bikes. Some people have a passion for guns, but mankind is all about using tools and a bicycle is the ultimate, a machine made for humans. That is the psychoanalysis of my infatuation with the bike. In my culture, Jan 14th is celebrated as harvest day or thanks to the Sun, the following day is thanks to the farm animals and the plow and given a rest. Nowadays it is the farm tractor that gets the celebration and the day off.
Luis, I 100% agree with your take on vintage steel. For me, my favorites have been: California Masi's, mid-80's Paramounts, Schwinn/Panasonic Pelotons/Circuits and high end UniVegas, though, as you say, there are lots of other great frame builders as well. My teammates in the late 70's rode Masi, Paramount, Ciocc, Colnago, Guerciotti and even Confente among others.
I’ve got a mid 80s Paramount (58cm) upgraded in 2000 to 9 speed DuraAce. Flawless Imron paint. I’m about to turn 76 and need to pass this bike on. What’s the best way to sell something like this. Bike is Tange Prestige tube set.
Awesome video as usual. One brand that have always cought my attention besides Bianchi and Colnago has been Olmo. Great looking frames and i have seen beautiful modern builds.
I have a bike shop in St Augustine. We have all types of bikes, yet every time we get a steel 80s road bike (Peugeots mostly), they sell so quick. They’re truly made to last
Great video. My steel collection includes 2 x Scapin’s (an R8 and a Dyesys S8 which is technically steel with carbon seat tube and chain stays), a Bianchi Pinella (thanks to you), a Gipiemme Sonic Boom, and a Cramerotti SLX. Scapin we’re masters in steel bike frame fabrication and love them. If you can get a lug-less late model, you won’t be disappointed. Love the channel.
Thanks for the video. I bought a Centurion Dave Scott Ironman frame for $20! Pretty light Tange for its age. In the process of building it. Found a SRAM Rival groupset new for $400. I have everything else so not a bad build for $420.
Cool vid. I did that conversion on the headset with my 1" gap on a 99 Reynolds 853 frame as you know. So light. I found a Syntace 1" stem matched up with a 1" carbon fiber fork Forte Axis Carbon Pro (aka Kinesis) and a 1" Chris King Headset. It can be done. It's fun for me to research and find good parts....I love when I flick my top tube in the middle and hear that sound. Then get a nice powder coating of paint to your liking, all good 🙂
Funny, I just built up a Miyata Team Titanium. It was a good deal, but it had been modernized by the owner. I kept the original fork (boxed it up), but decided to swap to a threadless 1 inch Ritchey. The quill adapter was too wobbly. She rides great, but she trails behind my steel queen. You're going to get me in trouble this year! Keep up the great content.
6 years ago I got myself a custom steel road frame. It was just before the builders boom here in Europe (i live in France)...It's built by a Polish reputable builder from DedaZero tubing with Columbus carbon fork and i paid for the kit 1250euros back than...the bike is built with Ultegra 6800, full carbon finishing kit & carbon wheels... It rides like a dream and I'd never wanna replace it with anything else.!
I had a full Campy Super Record bike from the 80's made by Specialized Bicycle with Ishiwata tubing, they only made that frame for a short while in Japan. Specialized also made a cheaper version with Suntour Surperbe Pro, it was a little stiffer and heavier. Soma Fabrications made some road bike frames with Tange Prestige that were close to the feel of Italian bikes. My problem today at 70 is 23mm tires, 2" drop to the handlebar, and a 52x34 crank with 11x26 freewheel. I still remember how it feels though, and miss reaching down to pull up on toe clip straps. Thanks for video!
Some kid at my son's middle school rides a stunning red 90s era DeRosa with Campy groupset. I told the kid he had a pretty special bike and he just stared at me.
Kudos on the Cioocc pronunciation. Spot on analysis Luis. I always thought of myself as a rebel & so when I raced, I equipped all my bikes with Suntour groupsets. Superbe Pro was the equal of anything of that period but I unfortunately got rid of it when Suntour capitulated & rolled over to Shimano & parts became hard to come by at the time. Everyone that I raced with had the bikes that rolls off people's tongues easily but I always lusted for in no particular order: Rossin, Tommasini & Pogliaghi. Yes steel is real & I still own a Lemond 853 frame. I also own one of Steve Bauer's actual race frame that he raced on when he was home in Canada. When Steve was home, he would show up on the local club rides & ride a bit with the club while he was out training. It was a small knit circle of friends & Steve always had some old gear that he no longer needed & just wanted to get rid of. Those were some of the fondest memories of when I first got into the sport. The passion never dies.
Another excellent vid Luis. I decided to go retro and picked up a 06 Bianchi Brava (frame and fork) that I plan to build, well have built by my local shop. Luckily I found a steel frame with a 1 1/8' head tube, 130mm wheel spacing, and ESA, which I will outfit with the 105 7000 groupsets, most of which I took off my CAAD10 last September.
I picked up a hand built thorn Audax Reynolds 725 with campag wheels and 9x3 groupset inc shifters in brakes for £100 and it only needed saddle seatpost and some bearings changed. It’s a lovely bike to ride with 725 and relaxed geometry..
Great video. I started with an aluminum 1996 Cannondale August 2021 but it was a 57 cm and my first road bike. Jumped on eBay and searched 60cm frames because I’m 6’2” and felt that would be a better fit. Bought my first steel frame Tommaso, Columbus frame and all Campagnolo and immediately felt the difference. Long story short, I now have 8 bikes, 1 aluminum Trek dual purpose bike, 1 Harry Havnoonian titanium that was built in 1993 with Campagnolo gear and I just met him and his two builders that has been with him for 30 and 28 years. First time I saw it, I said I’m going to ride that on my first century. Meeting them with the bike last Saturday was like bringing home a lost friend. Harry showed me the jig he made to build the bike. They are rebuilding a triple chrome plated steel bike they built that the original owner gave back to the shop because he was too old (91) to ride it. It’s a 60 cm and should be complete next month. That will be my 9th bike. I found an aluminum Zinn on eBay that is my “Cadillac”. A steel Colnago steel with modern kit. A 2002 steel Bianchi Vigorelli with all original components. The original owner stopped riding it in 2004. I just bought this and haven’t ridden it yet and I can’t wait. My style of cycling is distance. 80 mile days so I’m all about how the bike performs than getting the latest and greatest.
Great to see some love for the steel frames! I've got a couple that I lusted over as a youth, and a couple of custom steel frames too. Even running the original Campy 6 speed freewheel parts, they are fast enough for my needs. Lots of fun, reliable, easy to fix, and classy! 🙂
I recently recovered my mid 90’s Bianchi cyclocross bike from my parents’ garage. After nearly 25 years, the tubulars still held air so I went for a spin. Nothing crazy, cause I know the tires are going to be replaced but it was fun. I’ve decided to upgrade it from 8-speed to 10 speed or maybe 11 speed if it can be done. Part of me was hesitant as I thought I should just find a new carbon frame and build one up that way, but after seeing this video, I am convinced that I should stick with the frame. Although, there are some dings and surface rust they may make me have to repaint the whole thing. Thanks for the video.
I have a CBT Italia frameset. It's an Italian bike with French threaded bottom bracket and headset. A thing about French threaded BBs, they naturally undo themselves, no matter how TIGHT you screw them in. Now if you search long enough you can find threadless bottom brackets that can accommodate modern stuff like SRAM GXP, Shimano Hollowtech etc.
Nice channel! For those interested in a steel retro build with downtube shifters with a modern twist : if you source the latest generation campy downtube shifters (the ones with the 3 springs inside instead of 2, end of 90s era), you can pop in a 10 speed campy index ring to get 10 speed while keeping the retro look.
Good to see a modern bike dude lusting after steel. Just got my Serotta CSI steel, and love it. They don't make carbon bikes out of steel anymore! (er, what?)
Hi Luis, I'm fortunate enough to have kept my steel race bikes from the 80's and 90's. I also have newer steel frames that I love riding. Check out Daccordi Cycles in Tuscany. I have a couple of Luigi's bikes. He still custom builds steel frames as well as carbon and aluminum. I have one of his Columbus SL frames built with 11 speed Campagnolo, wonderful bike. His quality is unsurpassed. You can buy a new frame for about the same as same of the old vintage bikes. They have been building since 1937!
Echo that Daccordi steel fabrication is exceptionally good and Luigi (and before him his father ) focused on artisan production of the highest quality. Not so well known as the top Italian brands like De Rosa and Colnago but very much their equal in steel. Classic bikes like the 1987 50th anniversary or 1990 Griffe, exceptional hand painted bikes. All frames were completely chromed and then hand painted. Ps Tommasini: are also nearby.
Great video. Searching for the frame material can yield some results where the owner misspells the manufacturer, easy to do (human error happens), and you can find something quite interesting, it's how I found a mid-90s Fondriest steel frame (misspelled "Fondreist" in the listing) for less than €100.
It looks like you were riding in my old neighborhood. I used to live next to lighthouse Point, FL. I rode many miles up and down US1 and back. I would leave Pompano and ride to West Palm Beach and back. It was a dangerous road to ride at times. Nonetheless. I like your channel. Keep posting. IM trying to get back into riding again.
Two frame brands I always look for are “performance” and Diamondback (but are actually Centurion frames). Both are really not sought after so the pricing is super low which is great for a first timer or someone on a budget that doesn’t want junk. My Diamondback master tg has OS tubing and let me tell you any steel bike with OS tubing makes it feel almost as stiff as aluminum, but that ever so slightly steel feel which gives you comfort. My 87 Fuji is lugged so a little more flexible, but lugs are just so beautiful!
I picked up a Schwinn tandem with the True Temper OS tubing, what a great buy! I remember the early mountain bike frames with the OS tubing. People should look for those to turn into a "gravel" ride! I appreciate your comment!
I've been seeing this Centurion Le Mans RS for a while now. They priced it down to $50. I've been thinking about buying it but I'm not sure if it is a good frame. Should I buy it? Looks like it has all original parts. I don't know much about bikes and am just getting into it, but still don't want to buy junk
@@Avram1919 YES go for that especially for $50. Even if you may have to swap out components it's still a good deal. The only thing to really be aware of is just check for rust inside the frame and around the welds.
@newoldsteel thanks for the reply. She said the bike needs work but from the pictures it's not rusted and looks like it's been stored indoors it's whole life. Probly just needs a major tune up and tires etc. I've seen it for sale since April and at that time she still only wanted $100. Now that it's marked down to $50 I'm really looking at it. I've never heard of the brand, that's the only reason I didn't buy it at $100
Thanks again for all the info, I’m sure I’ll keep in touch with you if I got some questions on frame. By the way I just picked up a 1980 Raleigh Super Grand Prix , Made in Nottingham,England road bike all original components, $40 even. I liked it and maybe save it for L’Eroica ride.
I have a 84 pinarello montello with downtube shifters. I swapped to 1 inch carbon fork with a 1 inch threadless headset to a 1 inch pinarello carbon stem, no adapter and then i could swap out to wider handle bars. The 126mm dropouts stretched by hand out to 130mm for 10 speed drivetrain but the chain rubbed the frame on smallest rear cog. Lowes has white nylon washers that i used as spacers on drive side and the chain does not rub the frame anymore. Nylon doesn't rust. I ran several centries, 1000s of miles no issues.
Do not, just spread the chainstays, retracking involves moving each chainstay individually and realignment of the rear dropouts. If you just spread the chainstays, one chainstay will move more than the other one. During the crossover between 6sp and 7sp (mid 1980s) it was common practice to build at 128mm to comfortably accept either 126mm or 130mm
Hi Luis, I bought (on Kijiji) a 1980s Nishiki Olympic to fix up. I used a quill adjustor and put on brifters using Sensah, giving me 2 x 9 speed. I also bought a titanium bottom bracket and a 50 x 34 chainset. I swapped in a decent aluminum wheelset that I had. It weighs 9.7 kg (21 lb) including lights, bell, computer and bottle cage. I had the frame grit blasted and powder coated for $250 CDN (last year); it's an almost indestructible finish. To smarten it up I hand painted the lugs, and the end half of the forks and chain/seat stays a different colour. I bought the decals on Ebay. I love riding it, even though I have an aero carbon bike.
@@thegoodwheel The rear wheel spacing is 126 mm, but I could still install a modern wheel with 9S just by pulling the rear triangle by hand and dropping the wheel in. It helps if the bike is upside down, so there's no need for cold-setting.
@@richardharris8538I too did a retro mod build on a 1983 Nishiki Sport. I was originally using the bike as my commuter. I Sandblasted and powder coated the frame a dark blue and the fork a deep orange. It’s Indestructible paint as you said. It’s set up with 2x9 Shimano Claris group set and brifters, however, I kept the quill stem and painted that orange too. Wheels are hand built using H Plus Son Archetype rims and sapim spokes anodized orange to match the quill and fork color. I get loads of compliments on it since it is different. The ride quality is great, very comfortable and still very capable of hanging with the speedy group rides or getting me to work when I’m running late 😂
The 90s Paramounts were a step forward. Marl Muller instituted an oversized tube set that decreased weight with no loss in any other area. Plus the Waterford construction was top notch. The oversized tubing that came along in 90s made some great bikes, there was a big change from the pre 90s bikes. Your Bianchi is such. Be careful with any True Temper S3 frame. Those are very light and ride great but may have rust issues and are prone to denting. While I love steel, if you are buying used titanium is an easier choice. You get a steel like ride with less weight and more toughness. I own a Pegoretti (bought new) and love the classic bike but also own and ride a Spectrum Super Ti (bought new from ebay these were all custom and finding a new one on ebay was a once in a lifetime find.) and a Moots (bought used off CL) and love the ti too.
Man, I hate that True Temper got out of the bicycle tubing business. Their oversized tubing brought stiffness to a new level and it was very light, for steel. I have a tandem built with this tubing and it rides much better than the frame design would suggest. It has a "mixte" type stoker compartment. With the extra set of stays it is still pretty stiff. Anyway, I was lucky to get the bike frame off of Ebay. I used to have a steel frame mountain bike with TT tubing as well. It was a great bike for its day.
Bro, you're annunciation of the Italian is on point. Are you Hispanic? And if you mentioned it, I missed it, but Tommasini is a hot maker. I managed to score a Tomamasini Super Prestige with a full Dura-Ace 7400 groupset for $325 and it was in my size and just 15 minutes away from me. Sure, she needs a good restoration, but the groupset shifts like butter. It came in a marbleized paint with a Columbus SLK tubing. Crazy.
Hi Murphy! I love the 96-97 Eros in the pearlized white. I currently have one saved in my searches on Ebay. Great riding bike. What's the max tire clearance you've been able to fit?
I've been riding a 93 Bianchi Eros since I bought it new. Not at Luis's level but it's good for everything - from shopping to exploring dirt roads to weekend rides. Fashion has caught up with its 28mm tires.
Luis, good point on the Italian standard vs British standard bottom bracket threading. That's the first detail I want to know if looking at an Italian built frame.
Such a great topic Luis! I’m wondering if these older steel frames can take a modern mechanical group set and what I would need to look for. Would love a vintage steel frame with a modern mechanical Shimano or Campagnolo. Cheers!
Yes certainly possible to use modern non-hydraulic groupsets on older steel frames ….road rim brake. The key considerations are as follows : Rear wheel frame spacing On original 5,6, 7 speed is 126mm ……distance between inner dropout faces. Bikes from 1990’s onwards ie : 8,9,10,11, 12 speed the rear spacing is 130mm for road rim brake bikes. 126mm rear spacing can be cold adjusted to meet modern group set compatibility of 130mm spacing ( Done properly by LBS used to steel bikes and experienced mechanic - no problem and get them to check general frame trueness at same time. Can be done with a ruler and piece of string). Regardless of bike era front drop out spacing has remained a constant 100mm so no action required except get spacing checked. The other consideration is to ensure adequate cable routing for external or non headset internal cable system as required. You will invariably have an external threaded bottom bracket either BSA (British) ,Italian, in rare cases odd French sizes. The thread pitch varies as can BB width, so ensure you have the right type and one compatible to the frame shell width. Classic steel (or aluminium) frame combined with a modern group set and gearing makes a very enjoyable combination. One final point ensure the free hub body on your rear wheel is compatible with both your intended group set speed and intended cassette size . Cassette size also requires consideration of the RD cage length. (SS -shortcage up to 28 T. GS medium cage up to 32T. 12 speed can now get you down to 34T. Lower gearing than that you’re probably going to be looking at a MTB RD with a longer cage. Trust this assists and clarifies 😁
@9:30 Ciocc is pronounced 'Chy-ock' or 'ch-eye-oc' I own an updated 2020 Ciocc Rydon SL. I 'm not here only to correct but also to share how great your videos are brother! I appreciate the exposure. I also have a love for Bianchi too as I own a 2020 Infinito CV. Keep up the great work sir!
My vintage bike is a frame I purchased about 20 years ago as new old stock. Viner is the manufacturer. Its made of Columbus Nemo tig welded tubing and painted metalic fire red. I've built it up again recently with a chrome 1" threadless fork from Soma Fabrications made from Tange Infinity. Its currently set up with mostly Dura -Ace 7700 9 speed including down tube shifters. I know this will sound weird but I mounted 26" wheels (not 650c actual MTB 26") and 1.6" ~ 41mm wide Continental file tread contact speed tires. I had a metal shop dimple the chainstays near the bottom bracket. I'm also running long reach Tektro R559 dual pivot brakes to reach the rims. The ride with 45 to 50psi is dreamy to say the least and still quite snappy due to the lower moment of inertia advantage of smaller wheels. Certainly not a bike for the purist but I'm to old to ride with 23mm rubber these days. Love the content and can't wait for the next installment in this series.
I have done the same thing. One of the better bikes I am riding is a Tommasini Fire into which I installed a steel/aluminum fork instead of the carbon fiber stock fork. It weighs 18.74 lbs. I have installed an 11 speed Super Record group on it with Campy new type aluminum Shamals. My Trek Emonda was a half lb lighter. I am presently building a welded joint Fondriest, which I expect to be about the same weight. If you want the best on the cheap you can get a good steel frame without the long slot rear wheel dropouts and install one of the Chinese groups where you can get the group for less than $250. I like Basso Loto and shy away from Pinarello. Moser are good riding frame.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I have a Vitus 979 with Dura Ace 7400 components. I've been considering putting modern components on it for a while. Since I know the component set, is there an easy way of figuring out if a modern component set could fit the bike, or does it still come down to measuring everything and searching by size and thread direction? Like with component sets is there any concept of "the 7400 component set could be swapped out with the ____ modern set"? I've looked around online, but looking for things like "modern component sets compatible with dura ace 7400" doesn't pop up the kind of information I'm looking for.
Hi there! A 7400 is a fairly modern groupset. I would think most modern groupsets would fit... of course cgecking for bb threading and rear wheel spacing. Good luck with it👍🏾
DA 7400 8 speed was introduced in 1984 lasting until 1996. It saw indexed DT shifting and in1990 the introduction of STI dual control indexed shifting that we’re all familiar with today. Providing you have 130mm rear frame spacing between the dropouts and a free hub body compatible to your modern (non-hydraulic) group set speed. There should be no issues. Modern hollowtech BB should be fine in your frame. If in a hilly area why not go 12 speed 11/34 cassette 50/34 full compact (same cassette width as 11 speed), same freehub body. If flatter consider semi compact chainrings 52/36 with 11/32 or 11/34 cassette. Add to that mechanical or di2 and subject to budget and the world really is your oyster. Campagnolo 12 speed Chorus for $1000 if your frame has an Italian threaded BB . (Lots of Italian bikes raced on Shimano in 90’s ). Good luck, hope this helps 😇
@@kevinfrost1579 woah thanks for that awesome reply! I'm going to read through this more tonight. I'm probably a year off from this kind of a project, but feels very doable now 🎉
May I recommend a 90s steel hybrid frame? 700c, lots of tire clearance, more modern drop out spacing so you can run modern drivetrains if you want. I have a 93 GT Arette and I've set it up as a tourer with drop bars and as a commuter with flatbars. Great platforms for tinkering into steel bikes without the downsides from the 80s bikes and still very cheap to find
Ok Luis, you did it... you convinced me!!! I just found an extremely solid Bianchi Pinella in my size. It comes with frame, fork, seat post and clamp, chain keeper, and front deraileur clamp. I'm looking for a Campy SR 11 group set in great condition, but if I can't find one, do you think the new Record 12 group set (I watched your review) would work well?
Congratulations. You will love it. There was one for sale recently in Australia but shipping to US was too much. Record 12 is great! I am running it on a climbing bike I am putting together. Please let me know how you get on with it.👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel I almost pulled the trigger on the one from Australia... as soon as the auction ended there was another that was listed for 12 minutes before I got it! Will let you know how it goes. Thank you for the inspiration 🙏!
Are you that dude in Chicago in the gangsta rough zone ? I think I remember this channel . Yeah I restore a lot of steelies, most are midrange tubing, which is fine because I don't race. Drop bar Roadie since '72
Some nice and rare steel frames I have purchased on Ebay were a 1990 CT Wallis in Reynolds 731OS, 1998 Vetta Team in Dedacciai DR Zero Uno, 1994 Pinarello Stelvio in Dedacciai DR Zero and 1994 Grandis Overmax.All have their original steel forks. Except my 1993 Peugeot that has its time carbon forkand my 1990 Raleigh that has an aluminium fork, I plan upgrading my Raleigh with campa c record 16 speeds and all the rest of thebikes will be equipped with Dura Ace 7800 20 speeds.
Surly Pacer, last of the classic horizontal top tube caliper brake steel frames. Comes with a 1 1/8" treadless fork and will accept tires up to 32mm. Went out of production a couple of years ago, but they pop up now and then. My size 58 one weighs 22#'s. Not as sexy as my airbrushed and chrome Italian Concorde but more modern and flexible. Steel rocks.
@@truthseeker8483 I was a teenager and cyclist in the late eighties and early nineties. That’s what I knew. I prefer the simplicity, I don’t race so it doesn’t matter for me.
@@Daniel-yf9iy I was a teenager in the 70's /80's and used downtube shifters all the time and now prefer a more convenient solution. I run 1X7 and have one downtube shifter mounted on a bracket next to my left brake lever 😄
Excellent ,, excellent video SrI gave up on carbon (expensive and delicate) and my 1972 Derosa still riders much better….I just upgraded to an 11 speed campy and I’m afraid that the bike is going to outlived me…….PS. I see you ride the Marco pantani bike ….
For a Joe Blow just want to ride a steel bike kind of guy, this confirms that you really just need to find a custom bike builder, aka Richard Sachs, to make it happen.
I picked up a State Steel Road bike for $400 just for the frame. Changed all the components and wheelset. It has 130 rear spacing and a modern headset could use my spare stem and handlebar. Picked up Vision Wheels at 1650 grams. Bike is great only a little slower then my carbon Cervelo. Please tell me why I want an old frame vs the State New frame???
Hi Luis, despite my poor English, would you mind suggesting me any steel frame set focused on comfort and relaxing ride more than performance? I suffer from loosing feet sensibility and feet tingling whenever I ride more tan half an out on road bikes. This is due to old spinal disc herniation. The more I ride bended to the handlebar the more I quickly loose sensibility. Thank you and my congratulations for your videos
Facebook Marketplace is another great place to look for bikes. You can find bikes closer and often cheaper. At least in my areas- SF Bay Area. I notice prices have dropped in last months and sellers may be more willing to bargain. I like LeMond bikes. Usually steel, reasonably priced ($250 - 800), ridable at purchase at my level.
Would it be possible to email you? I’m trying to learn as much as possible, but you have such a wealth of knowledge. Several of the brands you mentioned I’d never even heard of. I totally understand if you don’t want to, but I figured I’d at least ask.
Hi Luis. I wonder if you might know if it's possible to check if a vintage steel frame has butted tubes rather than straight ones? Can one poke one's fingers inside and feel for the change in thickness? Unfortunately, when I built up my old Nishiki, I didn't think of doing that when I had the opportunity.
Other than getting infor from manufacturer I don't know of any other way. The butting is a subtle transition and I don't think you could reach it with your fingers.
If you have done it before, you can click with a key, or your fingers, kicking gently the tube, you will perceive a slightly different ting. We used to do that in all our friends bikes in the track, to check the thickness. Once you try with different tubes you quickly get a hint of different tings.
I have a 2002 Jamis Quest (Reynolds’s 631). It is my first road bike and currently has all stock components. Any recommendations on what upgrades to look into first? Love the vids!
Hi there! Thanks for watching. Wheelset (not necessarily carbon) is usually the 1st and most significant upgrade. Then touchpoints and cockpit Finally, components which have changed a lot since 2002. Good luck👍🏾
Question: Are new high-end steel frame manufacturers creating are better product than frames from 20+ years ago?? Example: a new Fairlight Strael vs. a 2001 Bianchi XL Reparto Corse in boron steel. Basically, is it smarter and more cost effective to purchase a new steel bike? Thanks for any insight.
Great question Dale. For me when comes to vintage frames, it goes beyond performance. Nostalgia, aesthetics and other fsctors may make the older frames more desirable. Ride quality may also be different. My '96 Bianchi does not perform on the same league as my '06 Pinella even with same components and wheel set. The Pinella really approximates the performance of my carbon frames. So yes, they may perform better in some instances... but I still want that Colnago master😂
Insightful Q Dale …….agree Luis’ response there’s more to it. Basics first ……get a bike that fits your body, so before any purchase see a highly experienced bike fitter. Ensure you ID the correct frame size and bike geometry for your body, varies with brand, as does size. The better it fits the more you’ll want to ride it and better it will perform, a weight difference of 1.5 - 2 kg is likely to be less important. Next physically ride all bikes of interest in your size / geo for 1 hour +. You’ll soon get a feel for where your preferences lie. Modern or older ? Consider what you want the bike for ? Speed ? Long distance ? Multi day endurance ? Looks ? Coffee run ? Put it this way what makes you happiest ……….TDF bike in It’s day or more modern ? A way to simplify the matter is if you want disc brakes / hydraulics, then the only choice is modern. Conversely think about ease of maintenance ? …..often indicates older top frames with external cable routing, rim brakes, etc. Have fun with the process and discovering what works for you. Good luck and hope this assists.😃
You can still get a new CF fork with threadless 1" Alu steerer and 1" threadless headset from Ritchey - not expensive. It's as if, they know there's something important abt skinny headtube on a road bike.
Awesome upload, thank you! Two questions: 1. Would using a quill stem adapter with an a-head stem be noticeably stiffer than a quill stem? 2. Is it worth the hassle in geting a fabricator/ framebuilder to convert a 1" threaded steel fork to threadless? Thanks in advance from Jag Bassi - England
Hi Jag! Thank you. 1. I've done it and can't say that it is noticeably stiffer. I think the biggest advantage is that you have more bar and stem options... those can make it stiffer. 2. I think that depends on how much you like the frame. But that's a tough call. You are also having to source an appropriate fork. Best of luck with your project👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel Thank you Luis for your swift reply, greatly appreciated! I hope to resurrect a Peugeot Perthus PY10 (Reynolds 531 Pro tubing) with chrome fork in time for summer. All the best, Jag.
I want one David! It is a bike that is on the list of few bikes I definitely want to own. One of my LBSs is a Colnago dealer and we talk about it often.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
my current ride is a 1972 FUJI finest. 650B x42 tires, ultegra 9 speed. been my favorite bike ive ever owned. done multiple centuries on it and my last one i average 17mph with 5k of climbing. ive also done 100 plus miles on it with 60% off road surfaces. sure its 30 lbs but its the most comfortable bike ive ever owned. long chainstays, ishiwata 022 double butted chromoly and a low trail tange fork. i could go on how much i love this bike.
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Your orange Merckx with blue panel logos... 🔥🔥🔥😍😍😍
I have a 1989 Peugeot 14 speed that I converted to a Ultegra 6700 group set and a set of Mavic Cosmic wheels. Lost about 4lbs by switching to a hollowtech BB, lighter components and the wheels especially. Real sweet ride, especially after I started using Latex tubes.
I bought a complete original 1980 Motobecane (Vitus 888 tubing) to fill the hole in my heart over my '79 being stolen many years ago. It's fully and lovingly restored now and not "worth" the money and time I have in it to anyone but me. Had I not been on this particular quest, I would have bought something Italian or English and modernized it. I might still do that in the coming year.
Thanks for sharing Ranger! Sorry to hear of your bike being stolen.
@@thegoodwheel Thanks. The dastardly deed was done way back in the late 80s, and I've searched off and on for another Grand Sprint, advertised as training bike and thus affordable for a poor undergrad, ever since. The original paint was not the same color as mine (changed from '79 to '80) and was a bit rougher than I cared for. Plus, the decals were a hot mess. After an hour or so of faffing with paint removal I decided my remaining time on Earth was too valuable for the effort, I had it glass blasted and (shudder) powder coated in a non-Motobecane color then applied reproduction decals. Since the bike will see little road use, and none in bad weather, this finish will last forever. For a bike with low panache and limited collector value even if original, I'd choose powder coat again in a heart beat.
That meant Swiss threading in bottom bracket.
35×1 left threading....right?
Is it still available?
I had sutch a bike many years ago.
@@SMidberg Left-threading, yes. I didn't do a thread count since the original parts the the shell were in excellent condition. I don't think finding new cups would have been overly difficult, but they probably would be expensive.
I just found your videos and I love your passion about bikes… keep it up!
Thank you so much, it is so good to feel among like minded people. I recently “restomod” a Gitane 1979 steel Vitus frame. I was after a Reynolds 531, but found this Vitus 971 and fell for it. What a joy the project was, the choosing, selecting, mounting and finally riding. Steel is special, but when it is your unique bike after having had a previous story, it feels special. Looking forward to next videos, thank you and keep going Luis.
Vitus 971 is really great too
Ditto, a couple of years ago I bought from a old widow a cherry Gitane cycles "Super Corsa", with the super vitus 980 frame and 971 chrome fork,I converted it to modern components, new bottom bracket, and wheels/ tires because the tubular tires were no longer available.short modern cranks for my fit,and a quill ,stem,and modern bars for comfort and Fit.She old ,1980 ,Fast and Sexy 😂,Oh and I almost forgot I was also able to fit 700x28c tires on her,. In fact just tonight I pulled her down from her stagged position in my Mancave and gave her a quick polish for a ride in the morning 😊
Concerning spreading a 126 to 130mm, 70's / 80's COLUMBUS SL or SP this would be it for me for re-spacing perhaps COLUMBUS SLX / TSX this would be the line for me. Tube sets later than these are on the brittle side and I have seen seat stays bridges pop loose. Reynolds frames I've done TONS of frameset mostly 531 / 525 and Reynolds 653, and forget about spreading 753 and above. Due note: when spreading the frame, the drop-out will also need to be squared off, if not the you may run into axle problems, if the drop-outs are not square when closing the QR you have uneven pressure from the face of the drop-out to the face of the lock nut, end game, bowing of the axle and sometimes ending up with broken axles. I will know this only because I've had a few customers who had this problem, one customer was crying, because he has been breaking roughly 2 axles per year this went on for 2 or 3 years, He said he had this other shop install a newer group set on his BENOTTO 3000 and ever since then he has been dealing with this axle problem, and the shop that did the work they had no clue. So it was my turn to work on his rig, the minute I popped that wheel off, I already knew the problem, I checked the spacing and it was jerry rigged to128mm without squaring off the drop-outs and the rear triangle was also out of alignment this is what happens when a shop thinks that they can do this type of framework, so it was my turn with this bicycle, when all said and done the broken axle problem was gone.
Also note: 70's and 80's ITALIAN made frames that was produced in the 70's and 80's COLUMBUS SL and SP frames will mostly be be with the same COLUMBUS frame sticker, Frameset above 58cm are most likely built with SP meaning the size of the seat post in need will be 27.0, if the frame size will be smaller then the seat post size will be 27.2. Sizing thing was recommendations from COLUMBUS and most frame builders/ brands built their frames accordingly. I had a customer who called and asked if I can hone and clean his seat tube because his 27.2 seat post will not fit, so he brought in his frame and it was a 59mm I said this frame requires a 27.0 he said the other shop said it needs a 27.2, this other shop sent him to me because they didn't have to tools to clean out his seat tube, another shop that was totally clueless. BTW: All COLNAGO frames was built with COLUMBUS SL
Bad Italian paint jobs from the 80's this was normal, the CIOCC was distributed by 10 speed drive all of their ITALIAN frame that was imported unpainted, paint then was applied in the U.S.A.
Frame sizing, most Italian made frames from 70's to 90's less COLNAGO will measure from center to center, all other frames ENGLISH, JAPANESE and FRENCH will measure center to top.
On another note, a custom built basic tig welded steel frame can be had from Jeff Lyon at Lyon sport / Grants pass Oregon for roughly $ 1,200.00.
Hope this helps!
Lots of great information and insights on there Cecile! I appreciate you sharing them👍🏾
Cecile absolute masterclass thank you, extensive knowledge learned over years, the result of hard graft, and generously passed on. A true mechanic’s mechanic……. My greatest thanks and respect 🎩 👍
Great info.
Fascinating. Thank you
The Moots frame arrived (what I would call modern vintage - 2006 manuf) and I built it up with a selection of parts and refreshed the decals. Yes it’s not steel but it’s a beautiful ride and I bet rides exactly the same today if not better with a new fork and modern components than when it was first made! Thank you for the inspiration & loving the content!
Awesome Dale! Congratulations and it sounds like you are building it out nicely👍🏾
I own a 1985 Schwinn Paramount Waterford. Absolutely fantastic ride. And have most modern components from 90s and early 2000 s. Wheels are the biggest change.
Thanks for sharing Michael👍🏾
Sir, thank you for the great material! Keep it coming! I appreciate the authenticity & passion!
Thank you Jason👍🏾
Luis Scott, thank you for another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it Bernie!
This is a great series, im looking forward to the next video
Thank you KG!
In my last year of high school (1978) I commuted in deep rural NorCal on a Peugeot PX10, drawn to sew-ups by another "misfit" friend one year ahead of me. I left the country in the '80s, and returned to biking much later in Japan, picking up a used Campy road bike in Columbus tubing by Dioss. I recently refurbished it after a few years in storage. I don't race, but just love being on the road again. No feeling like it. Thanks for your work on the channel!
Cool story! Thanks for sharing👍🏾
Nicely done Luis!
I have a an old Bianchi from 85-86 I need to do a bike profile on my channel.
FYI - since you mentioned Bottecchia I am a Bottecchia dealer and they still make Steel bikes all day long with chrome forks, chainstays and seat stays.
I’m also a Tommasini dealer I own a Tecno and an X-Fire (stainless XCR) but they make steel bikes.
I mention this, so that your viewers know that you can get modern steel alloys - with threadless forks custom geometry custom paint all day long. Without having to wonder if there’s corrosion on the inside of these late 1980s frames. You never know how how abused they have been during their lifespan of 40 years!
Thank you for sharing that George. I really appreciate you sharing that insight. Please post your store details. I will also mention this on my next video.
I have desired a Bottecchia Legendaria for some time now.
About 12 years ago I bought a lugged steel Specialized Allez from mid 1980's. I'm a recreational rider, not a racer, did centuries and a Brevet on it. It rode amazingly smooth and had a 6 speed indexed downtube Shimano shifter. I modernized the wheels, bars, and saddle. I put a compact double and found a wider range 6 sp freewheel (I ride in an area with lots of long climbs). If you're on more of a budget don't overlook the more common brands.
Thanks for sharing Christine👍🏾
Every since I had did some club racing back in the 80's, my bikes have been steel. My team club racing bike back then was a Scapin with Columbus SLX tubing. It road beautifully. I also had a Tange Prestige Specialized Allez which was amazing also. I'm presently in pursuit of a steel Columbus Colnago Master my dream bike.
Thanks for sharing Anthony. The master in PR82 does it for me👍🏾
What does PR82 mean? Thanks and great info.
Got a kick out of you clicking on a LeMond Zurich! I bought a late 90’s Zurich off eBay over 20 years ago. Built it with all used Ultega and a few Campy parts. Only new purchase was the Bontrager wheelset. Still riding it today.
Thanks for sharing Don! I've heard theybride great 👍🏾
Love the video common sense how to buy what to pay where to look i think most older riders will want the full bike purchase because the buy a frame then the accessories means a garage plus a workshop area ,i show all our young team your videos and its nice to know you are looked upon with great respect Luis Thank you.
Ahh, thank you David! I appreciate that👍🏾
Thanks, great video. I found my niche in the 70 and 80's Trek. I have one in Columbus and the rest are Reynolds and one Ishiwata. I also have a Miyata in spiral triple butted, and others in Tange and Ishiwata,. They all ride so smooth and I would have a hard time picking a favorite. I have cold set one frame and it turned out ok but the 79 Trek 930 is Columbus and I had my local frame guy spread it and then had it repainted. The other items I look for are a lightweight wheel set. Its a fascinating hobby and I think I enjoy wrenching as much as riding. Keep the video's coming.
Treks are innovative and look good. They are certainly on my shortlist
Thank you Bob! Sounds like annawesome stable of bikes👍🏾
I'm running a 531C track frame with a steel retro stem mated to a wide road bar. Got new hubs, spokes, and Campy Velocity tubular rims to complete a 'new to me' wheel-set. Recovering well from my open heart surgery, and I expect to start riding in early autumn. Keep up the excellent video content :)
Wow Bradley! I am wishing you awesome health and a speedy recovery🙏🏾
I would add a few things, year range 85 to 95 because of the material advancement, don't forget Tange Japan tubing, weight must be less than 20lbs complete, look for a vintage road bike in Craig list or other local media for the thrill of a bargain find, and for sizing look for the head tube length (saves you time). I am 5'5" and I look for the shortest one from the images posted and skip the others.
Thank you for this video, like minds always stick together. I have shown to my kids one of your videos where you talk about the feelings of the bike proving I am not the only one nuts about old steel bikes. Some people have a passion for guns, but mankind is all about using tools and a bicycle is the ultimate, a machine made for humans. That is the psychoanalysis of my infatuation with the bike.
In my culture, Jan 14th is celebrated as harvest day or thanks to the Sun, the following day is thanks to the farm animals and the plow and given a rest. Nowadays it is the farm tractor that gets the celebration and the day off.
Thank you for adding your insights Silverback👍🏾
Luis, I 100% agree with your take on vintage steel. For me, my favorites have been: California Masi's, mid-80's Paramounts, Schwinn/Panasonic Pelotons/Circuits and high end UniVegas, though, as you say, there are lots of other great frame builders as well. My teammates in the late 70's rode Masi, Paramount, Ciocc, Colnago, Guerciotti and even Confente among others.
Thank you Eric. Gotta love those Paramount frames👍🏾
I’ve got a mid 80s Paramount (58cm) upgraded in 2000 to 9 speed DuraAce. Flawless Imron paint. I’m about to turn 76 and need to pass this bike on. What’s the best way to sell something like this. Bike is Tange Prestige tube set.
Awesome video as usual. One brand that have always cought my attention besides Bianchi and Colnago has been Olmo. Great looking frames and i have seen beautiful modern builds.
Thank you for sharing thst Danny👍🏾
I have a bike shop in St Augustine. We have all types of bikes, yet every time we get a steel 80s road bike (Peugeots mostly), they sell so quick. They’re truly made to last
I enjoy St Augustine! Will have to stop by next time I am in town👍🏾
Great video. My steel collection includes 2 x Scapin’s (an R8 and a Dyesys S8 which is technically steel with carbon seat tube and chain stays), a Bianchi Pinella (thanks to you), a Gipiemme Sonic Boom, and a Cramerotti SLX. Scapin we’re masters in steel bike frame fabrication and love them. If you can get a lug-less late model, you won’t be disappointed. Love the channel.
Great stable. Thanks for watching 👍🏾
Thanks for the video. I bought a Centurion Dave Scott Ironman frame for $20! Pretty light Tange for its age. In the process of building it. Found a SRAM Rival groupset new for $400. I have everything else so not a bad build for $420.
Cool vid. I did that conversion on the headset with my 1" gap on a 99 Reynolds 853 frame as you know. So light. I found a Syntace 1" stem matched up with a 1" carbon fiber fork Forte Axis Carbon Pro (aka Kinesis) and a 1" Chris King Headset. It can be done. It's fun for me to research and find good parts....I love when I flick my top tube in the middle and hear that sound. Then get a nice powder coating of paint to your liking, all good 🙂
Nicely done Evsta! Yes, it is a viable option. Thanks for sharing👍🏾
Funny, I just built up a Miyata Team Titanium. It was a good deal, but it had been modernized by the owner. I kept the original fork (boxed it up), but decided to swap to a threadless 1 inch Ritchey. The quill adapter was too wobbly. She rides great, but she trails behind my steel queen. You're going to get me in trouble this year! Keep up the great content.
Jeffrey, I am trying to keep myself in check too😂
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍🏾
6 years ago I got myself a custom steel road frame. It was just before the builders boom here in Europe (i live in France)...It's built by a Polish reputable builder from DedaZero tubing with Columbus carbon fork and i paid for the kit 1250euros back than...the bike is built with Ultegra 6800, full carbon finishing kit & carbon wheels... It rides like a dream and I'd never wanna replace it with anything else.!
Thanks for sharing Darek! It sounds amazing 👍🏾
I had a full Campy Super Record bike from the 80's made by Specialized Bicycle with Ishiwata tubing, they only made that frame for a short while in Japan. Specialized also made a cheaper version with Suntour Surperbe Pro, it was a little stiffer and heavier. Soma Fabrications made some road bike frames with Tange Prestige that were close to the feel of Italian bikes. My problem today at 70 is 23mm tires, 2" drop to the handlebar, and a 52x34 crank with 11x26 freewheel. I still remember how it feels though, and miss reaching down to pull up on toe clip straps. Thanks for video!
Thanks for sharing that bit of nostalgia Mike👍🏾
Another great informative video Luis! Thank you so much.
My pleasure Howard! Thank you👍🏾
Bianchi, Colnago, Pinarello, Ciocc, Guerciotti, Derosa, Eddy Merckx, Lemond, Bottecchia, Olmo, and Battaglin are some classic steel bikes to look for
Don't forget : Peugeot, Mercier, Motobécane, Gitane, Méral (still manufacturing !)
Some kid at my son's middle school rides a stunning red 90s era DeRosa with Campy groupset. I told the kid he had a pretty special bike and he just stared at me.
Thank you Anthony! I really appreciate you sharing this information. Great list👍🏾
Kudos on the Cioocc pronunciation. Spot on analysis Luis. I always thought of myself as a rebel & so when I raced, I equipped all my bikes with Suntour groupsets. Superbe Pro was the equal of anything of that period but I unfortunately got rid of it when Suntour capitulated & rolled over to Shimano & parts became hard to come by at the time.
Everyone that I raced with had the bikes that rolls off people's tongues easily but I always lusted for in no particular order: Rossin, Tommasini & Pogliaghi. Yes steel is real & I still own a Lemond 853 frame. I also own one of Steve Bauer's actual race frame that he raced on when he was home in Canada. When Steve was home, he would show up on the local club rides & ride a bit with the club while he was out training. It was a small knit circle of friends & Steve always had some old gear that he no longer needed & just wanted to get rid of. Those were some of the fondest memories of when I first got into the sport. The passion never dies.
Nice story Motana! I remember Steve rode with a very funky geometry... and yes, the Superb Pro was good stuff indeed👍🏾
Excellent primer on vintage steel. Thank you!!
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Another excellent vid Luis. I decided to go retro and picked up a 06 Bianchi Brava (frame and fork) that I plan to build, well have built by my local shop. Luckily I found a steel frame with a 1 1/8' head tube, 130mm wheel spacing, and ESA, which I will outfit with the 105 7000 groupsets, most of which I took off my CAAD10 last September.
Can't wait to hear about how the build turns out. I believe that is Reynolds 631 tubing. Should ride nice👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel finished the 06 Bianchi Brava build but will switch out the pedals sometime this weekend. Will upload it to IG....
I picked up a hand built thorn Audax Reynolds 725 with campag wheels and 9x3 groupset inc shifters in brakes for £100 and it only needed saddle seatpost and some bearings changed. It’s a lovely bike to ride with 725 and relaxed geometry..
I am lucky in the UK. Condor make steel frames, also there made to measure. Very decent, disk breaks. They ride amazing!
Great video. I started with an aluminum 1996 Cannondale August 2021 but it was a 57 cm and my first road bike.
Jumped on eBay and searched 60cm frames because I’m 6’2” and felt that would be a better fit.
Bought my first steel frame Tommaso, Columbus frame and all Campagnolo and immediately felt the difference.
Long story short, I now have 8 bikes, 1 aluminum Trek dual purpose bike, 1 Harry Havnoonian titanium that was built in 1993 with Campagnolo gear and I just met him and his two builders that has been with him for 30 and 28 years. First time I saw it, I said I’m going to ride that on my first century. Meeting them with the bike last Saturday was like bringing home a lost friend. Harry showed me the jig he made to build the bike. They are rebuilding a triple chrome plated steel bike they built that the original owner gave back to the shop because he was too old (91) to ride it. It’s a 60 cm and should be complete next month. That will be my 9th bike.
I found an aluminum Zinn on eBay that is my “Cadillac”.
A steel Colnago steel with modern kit.
A 2002 steel Bianchi Vigorelli with all original components. The original owner stopped riding it in 2004. I just bought this and haven’t ridden it yet and I can’t wait.
My style of cycling is distance. 80 mile days so I’m all about how the bike performs than getting the latest and greatest.
Epic story there Gerard! Thank you for sharing it... and, your nice stable 👍🏾
So glad I found this site
So am I. Thanks for watching👍🏾
Great to see some love for the steel frames! I've got a couple that I lusted over as a youth, and a couple of custom steel frames too. Even running the original Campy 6 speed freewheel parts, they are fast enough for my needs. Lots of fun, reliable, easy to fix, and classy! 🙂
👍🏾
I recently recovered my mid 90’s Bianchi cyclocross bike from my parents’ garage. After nearly 25 years, the tubulars still held air so I went for a spin. Nothing crazy, cause I know the tires are going to be replaced but it was fun. I’ve decided to upgrade it from 8-speed to 10 speed or maybe 11 speed if it can be done. Part of me was hesitant as I thought I should just find a new carbon frame and build one up that way, but after seeing this video, I am convinced that I should stick with the frame. Although, there are some dings and surface rust they may make me have to repaint the whole thing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing Jerry. Good luck with the project!
I have a CBT Italia frameset. It's an Italian bike with French threaded bottom bracket and headset. A thing about French threaded BBs, they naturally undo themselves, no matter how TIGHT you screw them in. Now if you search long enough you can find threadless bottom brackets that can accommodate modern stuff like SRAM GXP, Shimano Hollowtech etc.
Thanks for sharing that SavagePro👍🏾
Nice channel!
For those interested in a steel retro build with downtube shifters with a modern twist : if you source the latest generation campy downtube shifters (the ones with the 3 springs inside instead of 2, end of 90s era), you can pop in a 10 speed campy index ring to get 10 speed while keeping the retro look.
Thanks for sharing that info👍🏾
Good to see a modern bike dude lusting after steel. Just got my Serotta CSI steel, and love it. They don't make carbon bikes out of steel anymore! (er, what?)
Thanks for watching G C 👍🏾
Hi Luis, I'm fortunate enough to have kept my steel race bikes from the 80's and 90's. I also have newer steel frames that I love riding. Check out Daccordi Cycles in Tuscany. I have a couple of Luigi's bikes. He still custom builds steel frames as well as carbon and aluminum. I have one of his Columbus SL frames built with 11 speed Campagnolo, wonderful bike. His quality is unsurpassed. You can buy a new frame for about the same as same of the old vintage bikes. They have been building since 1937!
Thst is awesome Steve! I wish I had done the same. A Ciocc and a Colnago Conic SLX. I will be in Tuscanny this year, so I will look him up👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel Luis they also do U Tube, they are in San Miniato, tell Luigi and Sena I said hello, have a good trip.
Echo that Daccordi steel fabrication is exceptionally good and Luigi (and before him his father ) focused on artisan production of the highest quality. Not so well known as the top Italian brands like De Rosa and Colnago but very much their equal in steel. Classic bikes like the 1987 50th anniversary or 1990 Griffe, exceptional hand painted bikes. All frames were completely chromed and then hand painted. Ps Tommasini: are also nearby.
Great video. Searching for the frame material can yield some results where the owner misspells the manufacturer, easy to do (human error happens), and you can find something quite interesting, it's how I found a mid-90s Fondriest steel frame (misspelled "Fondreist" in the listing) for less than €100.
Wow! Great find👍🏾
It looks like you were riding in my old neighborhood. I used to live next to lighthouse Point, FL. I rode many miles up and down US1 and back. I would leave Pompano and ride to West Palm Beach and back. It was a dangerous road to ride at times. Nonetheless. I like your channel. Keep posting. IM trying to get back into riding again.
Yes, indeed we were riding in that area. Thanks for watching👍🏾
Two frame brands I always look for are “performance” and Diamondback (but are actually Centurion frames). Both are really not sought after so the pricing is super low which is great for a first timer or someone on a budget that doesn’t want junk. My Diamondback master tg has OS tubing and let me tell you any steel bike with OS tubing makes it feel almost as stiff as aluminum, but that ever so slightly steel feel which gives you comfort. My 87 Fuji is lugged so a little more flexible, but lugs are just so beautiful!
Hey NewoldSteel! Yep, Diamonback dies represent a good value. Thanks for the tip. I will look into that frameset👍🏾
I picked up a Schwinn tandem with the True Temper OS tubing, what a great buy! I remember the early mountain bike frames with the OS tubing. People should look for those to turn into a "gravel" ride! I appreciate your comment!
I've been seeing this Centurion Le Mans RS for a while now. They priced it down to $50. I've been thinking about buying it but I'm not sure if it is a good frame. Should I buy it? Looks like it has all original parts. I don't know much about bikes and am just getting into it, but still don't want to buy junk
@@Avram1919 YES go for that especially for $50. Even if you may have to swap out components it's still a good deal. The only thing to really be aware of is just check for rust inside the frame and around the welds.
@newoldsteel thanks for the reply. She said the bike needs work but from the pictures it's not rusted and looks like it's been stored indoors it's whole life. Probly just needs a major tune up and tires etc. I've seen it for sale since April and at that time she still only wanted $100. Now that it's marked down to $50 I'm really looking at it. I've never heard of the brand, that's the only reason I didn't buy it at $100
Thanks again for all the info, I’m sure I’ll keep in touch with you if I got some questions on frame. By the way I just picked up a 1980 Raleigh Super Grand Prix , Made in Nottingham,England road bike all original components, $40 even. I liked it and maybe save it for L’Eroica ride.
Thanks for that Harold. That bike sounds like a great find👍🏾
Thanks, as always, for your insight.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching 👍🏾
I have a 84 pinarello montello with downtube shifters. I swapped to 1 inch carbon fork with a 1 inch threadless headset to a 1 inch pinarello carbon stem, no adapter and then i could swap out to wider handle bars. The 126mm dropouts stretched by hand out to 130mm for 10 speed drivetrain but the chain rubbed the frame on smallest rear cog. Lowes has white nylon washers that i used as spacers on drive side and the chain does not rub the frame anymore. Nylon doesn't rust. I ran several centries, 1000s of miles no issues.
Hi Neuregel. Thank you for sharing that. I am actually looking at a Treviso from that era and wouldnbe doing the same thing👍🏾
Do not, just spread the chainstays, retracking involves moving each chainstay individually and realignment of the rear dropouts.
If you just spread the chainstays, one chainstay will move more than the other one.
During the crossover between 6sp and 7sp (mid 1980s) it was common practice to build at 128mm to comfortably accept either 126mm or 130mm
Thanks for sharing Harry!
So let's see... 4 mm is just .16 in. ... Going from 126 to 130. I've never seen sliding a wheel in there,...... Hurt anything
Hi Luis, I bought (on Kijiji) a 1980s Nishiki Olympic to fix up. I used a quill adjustor and put on brifters using Sensah, giving me 2 x 9 speed. I also bought a titanium bottom bracket and a 50 x 34 chainset. I swapped in a decent aluminum wheelset that I had. It weighs 9.7 kg (21 lb) including lights, bell, computer and bottle cage. I had the frame grit blasted and powder coated for $250 CDN (last year); it's an almost indestructible finish. To smarten it up I hand painted the lugs, and the end half of the forks and chain/seat stays a different colour. I bought the decals on Ebay. I love riding it, even though I have an aero carbon bike.
Thank you for sharing your build Richard! Sounds well thought out👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel The rear wheel spacing is 126 mm, but I could still install a modern wheel with 9S just by pulling the rear triangle by hand and dropping the wheel in. It helps if the bike is upside down, so there's no need for cold-setting.
@@richardharris8538I too did a retro mod build on a 1983 Nishiki Sport. I was originally using the bike as my commuter. I Sandblasted and powder coated the frame a dark blue and the fork a deep orange. It’s Indestructible paint as you said. It’s set up with 2x9 Shimano Claris group set and brifters, however, I kept the quill stem and painted that orange too. Wheels are hand built using H Plus Son Archetype rims and sapim spokes anodized orange to match the quill and fork color. I get loads of compliments on it since it is different. The ride quality is great, very comfortable and still very capable of hanging with the speedy group rides or getting me to work when I’m running late 😂
I've been hanging on to my Bianchi Eros from the mid-1990s. The frame is lugged, not welded.
That is a great all around bike Greg👍🏾
Good info, thank you
Thanks for watching 👍🏾
The 90s Paramounts were a step forward. Marl Muller instituted an oversized tube set that decreased weight with no loss in any other area. Plus the Waterford construction was top notch. The oversized tubing that came along in 90s made some great bikes, there was a big change from the pre 90s bikes. Your Bianchi is such. Be careful with any True Temper S3 frame. Those are very light and ride great but may have rust issues and are prone to denting. While I love steel, if you are buying used titanium is an easier choice. You get a steel like ride with less weight and more toughness. I own a Pegoretti (bought new) and love the classic bike but also own and ride a Spectrum Super Ti (bought new from ebay these were all custom and finding a new one on ebay was a once in a lifetime find.) and a Moots (bought used off CL) and love the ti too.
Thanks for sharing your insights!
Man, I hate that True Temper got out of the bicycle tubing business. Their oversized tubing brought stiffness to a new level and it was very light, for steel. I have a tandem built with this tubing and it rides much better than the frame design would suggest. It has a "mixte" type stoker compartment. With the extra set of stays it is still pretty stiff. Anyway, I was lucky to get the bike frame off of Ebay. I used to have a steel frame mountain bike with TT tubing as well. It was a great bike for its day.
Bro, you're annunciation of the Italian is on point. Are you Hispanic? And if you mentioned it, I missed it, but Tommasini is a hot maker. I managed to score a Tomamasini Super Prestige with a full Dura-Ace 7400 groupset for $325 and it was in my size and just 15 minutes away from me. Sure, she needs a good restoration, but the groupset shifts like butter. It came in a marbleized paint with a Columbus SLK tubing. Crazy.
Great find! I was born in Panamá
@@thegoodwheel ¡Vaya' hermano! Boricua aqui.
Last year I picked up a 96 bianchi Eros got it going love it. I know it’s not at your level but it works😎
Hi Murphy! I love the 96-97 Eros in the pearlized white. I currently have one saved in my searches on Ebay. Great riding bike. What's the max tire clearance you've been able to fit?
I've been riding a 93 Bianchi Eros since I bought it new. Not at Luis's level but it's good for everything - from shopping to exploring dirt roads to weekend rides. Fashion has caught up with its 28mm tires.
@@BartAnderson_writer I want to re paint can’t find the decals
@@murphyco88 , wish I could help. I keep the old paint because the old look makes it less attractive to thieves. It's a green I like.
I live using down tube shifters. I got a soma speedster with a 2x10 drive train and a bianchi campione with a 2x9 with down tube shifters
I own the last frame in your video bianchi minimax. Still looking for components for it. Look like it’s reparto corse. Thanks for the video!
Ahh, nice choice Isaac. Good luck with the build👍🏾
Luis, good point on the Italian standard vs British standard bottom bracket threading. That's the first detail I want to know if looking at an Italian built frame.
Thank you Matt👍🏾
Such a great topic Luis! I’m wondering if these older steel frames can take a modern mechanical group set and what I would need to look for. Would love a vintage steel frame with a modern mechanical Shimano or Campagnolo. Cheers!
Hey Rob, in many cases they can. It's gotta be taken on a case by case basis. Thanks for watching 👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel That is 90% incorrect. In most cases you cannot use modern mechanical groupo on old steel frames.
@@Davek111 what you are saying simply is not true
@@thegoodwheel Agreed there's a whole neo retro sub culture which would disagree as well.
Yes certainly possible to use modern non-hydraulic groupsets on older steel frames ….road rim brake. The key considerations are as follows :
Rear wheel frame spacing On original 5,6, 7 speed is 126mm ……distance between inner dropout faces.
Bikes from 1990’s onwards ie : 8,9,10,11, 12 speed the rear spacing is 130mm for road rim brake bikes. 126mm rear spacing can be cold adjusted to meet modern group set compatibility of 130mm spacing ( Done properly by LBS used to steel bikes and experienced mechanic - no problem and get them to check general frame trueness at same time. Can be done with a ruler and piece of string).
Regardless of bike era front drop out spacing has remained a constant 100mm so no action required except get spacing checked.
The other consideration is to ensure adequate cable routing for external or non headset internal cable system as required. You will invariably have an external threaded bottom bracket either BSA (British) ,Italian, in rare cases odd French sizes. The thread pitch varies as can BB width, so ensure you have the right type and one compatible to the frame shell width.
Classic steel (or aluminium) frame combined with a modern group set and gearing makes a very enjoyable combination.
One final point ensure the free hub body on your rear wheel is compatible with both your intended group set speed and intended cassette size . Cassette size also requires consideration of the RD cage length. (SS -shortcage up to 28 T. GS medium cage up to 32T. 12 speed can now get you down to 34T. Lower gearing than that you’re probably going to be looking at a MTB RD with a longer cage.
Trust this assists and clarifies 😁
@9:30 Ciocc is pronounced 'Chy-ock' or 'ch-eye-oc' I own an updated 2020 Ciocc Rydon SL. I 'm not here only to correct but also to share how great your videos are brother! I appreciate the exposure. I also have a love for Bianchi too as I own a 2020 Infinito CV. Keep up the great work sir!
Thanks Havin! I appreciate that. Over the years I have heard different versions of the pronounciation, so thanks for sharing👍🏾
It is pronounced chooch. There is a video of the man himself saying it. It is a nice nickname for someone who is just a bit fat.
Nice!! Had a Basso Gap stolen off a Greyhound Bus in 1991 and Still doing Ebay Seacrhes and Might get lucky nahhh haha
That's a bummer Ron!
My vintage bike is a frame I purchased about 20 years ago as new old stock. Viner is the manufacturer. Its made of Columbus Nemo tig welded tubing and painted metalic fire red. I've built it up again recently with a chrome 1" threadless fork from Soma Fabrications made from Tange Infinity. Its currently set up with mostly Dura -Ace 7700 9 speed including down tube shifters. I know this will sound weird but I mounted 26" wheels (not 650c actual MTB 26") and 1.6" ~ 41mm wide Continental file tread contact speed tires. I had a metal shop dimple the chainstays near the bottom bracket. I'm also running long reach Tektro R559 dual pivot brakes to reach the rims. The ride with 45 to 50psi is dreamy to say the least and still quite snappy due to the lower moment of inertia advantage of smaller wheels. Certainly not a bike for the purist but I'm to old to ride with 23mm rubber these days. Love the content and can't wait for the next installment in this series.
Wow Todd! I love your ingenuity with that bike. I am familiar with Viner... great bikes👍🏾
Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I have done the same thing. One of the better bikes I am riding is a Tommasini Fire into which I installed a steel/aluminum fork instead of the carbon fiber stock fork. It weighs 18.74 lbs. I have installed an 11 speed Super Record group on it with Campy new type aluminum Shamals. My Trek Emonda was a half lb lighter. I am presently building a welded joint Fondriest, which I expect to be about the same weight. If you want the best on the cheap you can get a good steel frame without the long slot rear wheel dropouts and install one of the Chinese groups where you can get the group for less than $250. I like Basso Loto and shy away from Pinarello. Moser are good riding frame.
Hi Tom! Your Tommasini Fire sounds amazing. Thanks for sharing your insights 👍🏾
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
I have a Vitus 979 with Dura Ace 7400 components. I've been considering putting modern components on it for a while. Since I know the component set, is there an easy way of figuring out if a modern component set could fit the bike, or does it still come down to measuring everything and searching by size and thread direction? Like with component sets is there any concept of "the 7400 component set could be swapped out with the ____ modern set"? I've looked around online, but looking for things like "modern component sets compatible with dura ace 7400" doesn't pop up the kind of information I'm looking for.
Hi there! A 7400 is a fairly modern groupset. I would think most modern groupsets would fit... of course cgecking for bb threading and rear wheel spacing. Good luck with it👍🏾
Remember only steel frames can be cold set to 130mm but I think your Vitus is already 130mm at the rear.
DA 7400 8 speed was introduced in 1984 lasting until 1996. It saw indexed DT shifting and in1990 the introduction of STI dual control indexed shifting that we’re all familiar with today. Providing you have 130mm rear frame spacing between the dropouts and a free hub body compatible to your modern (non-hydraulic) group set speed. There should be no issues. Modern hollowtech BB should be fine in your frame. If in a hilly area why not go 12 speed 11/34 cassette 50/34 full compact (same cassette width as 11 speed), same freehub body. If flatter consider semi compact chainrings 52/36 with 11/32 or 11/34 cassette. Add to that mechanical or di2 and subject to budget and the world really is your oyster.
Campagnolo 12 speed Chorus for $1000 if your frame has an Italian threaded BB . (Lots of Italian bikes raced on Shimano in 90’s ).
Good luck, hope this helps 😇
@@kevinfrost1579 woah thanks for that awesome reply! I'm going to read through this more tonight. I'm probably a year off from this kind of a project, but feels very doable now 🎉
Ii built a Fuji framed bike with high end vintage Japanese parts....she loves the ride (previously her fav bike was a carbon frame Cannondale Synapse.
Fuji is very good frame👍🏾
Thanks for the guide
Happy to help👍🏾
What do you think of a Pinarello Treviso built with Columbus SL tubing?
Its a good bike Brian👍🏾
I think I mention one in this video
May I recommend a 90s steel hybrid frame? 700c, lots of tire clearance, more modern drop out spacing so you can run modern drivetrains if you want. I have a 93 GT Arette and I've set it up as a tourer with drop bars and as a commuter with flatbars. Great platforms for tinkering into steel bikes without the downsides from the 80s bikes and still very cheap to find
Thanks for the suggestion 👍🏾
works great
Ok Luis, you did it... you convinced me!!! I just found an extremely solid Bianchi Pinella in my size. It comes with frame, fork, seat post and clamp, chain keeper, and front deraileur clamp. I'm looking for a Campy SR 11 group set in great condition, but if I can't find one, do you think the new Record 12 group set (I watched your review) would work well?
Congratulations. You will love it. There was one for sale recently in Australia but shipping to US was too much.
Record 12 is great! I am running it on a climbing bike I am putting together. Please let me know how you get on with it.👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel I almost pulled the trigger on the one from Australia... as soon as the auction ended there was another that was listed for 12 minutes before I got it! Will let you know how it goes. Thank you for the inspiration 🙏!
@@neilcallender6796 happy for you!
Are you that dude in Chicago in the gangsta rough zone ? I think I remember this channel . Yeah I restore a lot of steelies, most are midrange tubing, which is fine because I don't race. Drop bar Roadie since '72
Some nice and rare steel frames I have purchased on Ebay were a 1990 CT Wallis in Reynolds 731OS, 1998 Vetta Team in Dedacciai DR Zero Uno, 1994 Pinarello Stelvio in Dedacciai DR Zero and 1994 Grandis Overmax.All have their original steel forks. Except my 1993 Peugeot that has its time carbon forkand my 1990 Raleigh that has an aluminium fork, I plan upgrading my Raleigh with campa c record 16 speeds and all the rest of thebikes will be equipped with Dura Ace 7800 20 speeds.
That is a very nice stable of bikes👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel thanks,exclusivity,rarity and quality of tubing have always been my selection criteria
Surly Pacer, last of the classic horizontal top tube caliper brake steel frames. Comes with a 1 1/8" treadless fork and will accept tires up to 32mm. Went out of production a couple of years ago, but they pop up now and then. My size 58 one weighs 22#'s. Not as sexy as my airbrushed and chrome Italian Concorde but more modern and flexible. Steel rocks.
That's one to check out👍🏾
great content as usual regards from Germany
Thank you Wolfgang👍🏾
That Bianchi is really nice. Just perfect, although I’d prefer downtube shifters.
Why? 😀
@@truthseeker8483
I was a teenager and cyclist in the late eighties and early nineties. That’s what I knew. I prefer the simplicity, I don’t race so it doesn’t matter for me.
@@Daniel-yf9iy I was a teenager in the 70's /80's and used downtube shifters all the time and now prefer a more convenient solution. I run 1X7 and have one downtube shifter mounted on a bracket next to my left brake lever 😄
@@truthseeker8483
Nice. I’d love to build a late 80s Colnago.
Thank you Daniel!
Great vid Luis.. I was hoping you would create this vid awesome.. :)
Thank you Pete! Part 2 coming soon👍🏾
Excellent ,, excellent video SrI gave up on carbon (expensive and delicate) and my 1972 Derosa still riders much better….I just upgraded to an 11 speed campy and I’m afraid that the bike is going to outlived me…….PS. I see you ride the Marco pantani bike ….
For a Joe Blow just want to ride a steel bike kind of guy, this confirms that you really just need to find a custom bike builder, aka Richard Sachs, to make it happen.
I think Richard has a waiting list... but yes👍🏾
I picked up a State Steel Road bike for $400 just for the frame. Changed all the components and wheelset. It has 130 rear spacing and a modern headset could use my spare stem and handlebar. Picked up Vision Wheels at 1650 grams. Bike is great only a little slower then my carbon Cervelo. Please tell me why I want an old frame vs the State New frame???
Sounds like you found something that works great for you! Congratulations and ride it in good health👍🏾
Fairlight from the UK uses Reynolds steel tubing and a carbon fork matched to the frame color.
Thank you for sharing 👍🏾
Startlingly good manufacturer. Club mate has been using one for last 3 years, VGC quality build, exceptionally light with the right wheelset.
Thank you!
You're welcome Lionel!
Hi Luis, despite my poor English, would you mind suggesting me any steel frame set focused on comfort and relaxing ride more than performance? I suffer from loosing feet sensibility and feet tingling whenever I ride more tan half an out on road bikes. This is due to old spinal disc herniation. The more I ride bended to the handlebar the more I quickly loose sensibility.
Thank you and my congratulations for your videos
Facebook Marketplace is another great place to look for bikes. You can find bikes closer and often cheaper. At least in my areas- SF Bay Area.
I notice prices have dropped in last months and sellers may be more willing to bargain.
I like LeMond bikes. Usually steel, reasonably priced ($250 - 800), ridable at purchase at my level.
Thanks for sharing that Bart👍🏾
Would it be possible to email you? I’m trying to learn as much as possible, but you have such a wealth of knowledge. Several of the brands you mentioned I’d never even heard of. I totally understand if you don’t want to, but I figured I’d at least ask.
Hi David. Thank you for that. My contact details are in the video description.👍🏾
Are you using the innicycle stem convertor on your steel bikes to put ahead stems on them?
For my bikes with 1 inch headtube I just use a threadless fork and a shim to allow a modern stem.
Hi Luis. I wonder if you might know if it's possible to check if a vintage steel frame has butted tubes rather than straight ones? Can one poke one's fingers inside and feel for the change in thickness? Unfortunately, when I built up my old Nishiki, I didn't think of doing that when I had the opportunity.
Other than getting infor from manufacturer I don't know of any other way. The butting is a subtle transition and I don't think you could reach it with your fingers.
@@thegoodwheel Yes, I rather suspected that. Thanks.
If you have done it before, you can click with a key, or your fingers, kicking gently the tube, you will perceive a slightly different ting. We used to do that in all our friends bikes in the track, to check the thickness. Once you try with different tubes you quickly get a hint of different tings.
I got a mint Guerciotti circa 1990
Congrats! Great bike👍🏾
I bought it brand new from bicycletta in Vancouver. In 90. It’s my trainer it sits on a wahoo kickr/ climb still ride it everyday in the off seasons
I wish I had seen this video before I built my first Vintage steel bike.
👍🏾
I have a 2002 Jamis Quest (Reynolds’s 631). It is my first road bike and currently has all stock components. Any recommendations on what upgrades to look into first? Love the vids!
Hi there! Thanks for watching.
Wheelset (not necessarily carbon) is usually the 1st and most significant upgrade.
Then touchpoints and cockpit
Finally, components which have changed a lot since 2002.
Good luck👍🏾
Awesome, thank you!!
I probably have one of each but I prefer 1. Bianchi 2. Pinarello 3. Colnago 4. De Rosa 5. Peugeot 6. Raleigh
In that order?
So question. I have thought about doing this a couple of times. If you repaint a frame do they sell sticker kits to restore that part of the rehab?
Actually yes. I have got mine from world cycle decals in the UK but there are other sources.
Giordana XL Super. Read up on the tubing and ride at The Paceline Forum.
👍🏾
Question: Are new high-end steel frame manufacturers creating are better product than frames from 20+ years ago?? Example: a new Fairlight Strael vs. a 2001 Bianchi XL Reparto Corse in boron steel. Basically, is it smarter and more cost effective to purchase a new steel bike? Thanks for any insight.
Great question Dale. For me when comes to vintage frames, it goes beyond performance.
Nostalgia, aesthetics and other fsctors may make the older frames more desirable. Ride quality may also be different. My '96 Bianchi does not perform on the same league as my '06 Pinella even with same components and wheel set. The Pinella really approximates the performance of my carbon frames. So yes, they may perform better in some instances... but I still want that Colnago master😂
Insightful Q Dale …….agree Luis’ response there’s more to it. Basics first ……get a bike that fits your body, so before any purchase see a highly experienced bike fitter. Ensure you ID the correct frame size and bike geometry for your body, varies with brand, as does size. The better it fits the more you’ll want to ride it and better it will perform, a weight difference of 1.5 - 2 kg is likely to be less important. Next physically ride all bikes of interest in your size / geo for 1 hour +.
You’ll soon get a feel for where your preferences lie.
Modern or older ? Consider what you want the bike for ? Speed ? Long distance ? Multi day endurance ? Looks ? Coffee run ?
Put it this way what makes you happiest ……….TDF bike in It’s day or more modern ? A way to simplify the matter is if you want disc brakes / hydraulics, then the only choice is modern. Conversely think about ease of maintenance ? …..often indicates older top frames with external cable routing, rim brakes, etc.
Have fun with the process and discovering what works for you. Good luck and hope this assists.😃
You can still get a new CF fork with threadless 1" Alu steerer and 1" threadless headset from Ritchey - not expensive. It's as if, they know there's something important abt skinny headtube on a road bike.
Thanks for sharing that Rod!
Awesome upload, thank you! Two questions:
1. Would using a quill stem adapter with an a-head stem be noticeably stiffer than a quill stem?
2. Is it worth the hassle in geting a fabricator/ framebuilder to convert a 1" threaded steel fork to threadless?
Thanks in advance from Jag Bassi - England
Hi Jag! Thank you.
1. I've done it and can't say that it is noticeably stiffer. I think the biggest advantage is that you have more bar and stem options... those can make it stiffer.
2. I think that depends on how much you like the frame. But that's a tough call. You are also having to source an appropriate fork.
Best of luck with your project👍🏾
@@thegoodwheel Thank you Luis for your swift reply, greatly appreciated! I hope to resurrect a Peugeot Perthus PY10 (Reynolds 531 Pro tubing) with chrome fork in time for summer. All the best, Jag.
On 126mm rear frame spacing, installing modern 130mm rear wheel in Not recommended ! Causes tremendous stress on frame my crack stays.
Thanks Luis !
What do you think of the Colnago Master Light ? I think it might still be made as new in Italy ?
I want one David! It is a bike that is on the list of few bikes I definitely want to own. One of my LBSs is a Colnago dealer and we talk about it often.
Still making them. Possibly even better checkout Technos (last produced early 2000’s)