Matt. You nailed it! 30 minutes is the perfect time frame to digest all this info for us newbies. I am addicted to this series ;) Greetings from Portugal!
My pleasure! the videos are hopefully a slow pace. I know so many people want that quick dopamine hit in 5min but this stuff takes time and practice ;)
I downloaded both Fusion 360 and your scan data and was able to follow along for the entire video, albeit with a few pauses here and there. You did a great job moving through this in a way that explains your modeling choices. Look forward to continuing with the other tutorials - bravo!
Great to hear! This is a long series just so you know :) it was the entire actual process, not a refined ideal thing. So basically what I go through while designing.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I understand. That's what 2x playback speed is for 😂 Honestly sometimes I really appreciate the long form stuff. Just scanned my car today with a friend and look forward to playing with my own model too
Glad it was helpful! There are lots of vids on this channel for cannards, spoilers, and wide bodies. I didn't specifically do a rear diffuser vid but we added something similar in shape in the Porsche 911 video series.
another awesome video in the series. I'm editing a video now of using scans to design a chassis for my van, and in the first few minutes, you mention that you can turn off scan select. O how I wish I Knew that before. ha ha.
Yeah neat tip from one of the subscribers. I showed the unselectable thing in a video and someone mentions it makes the meshes run a bit faster, and oddly enough in forms you can still snap to the mesh...
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign very handy, even one I had finished designing every time i turn the mesh on it slows right down, will definitely see if it helps to speed it up.
One thing i do from time to time is cut out a section of the mesh i need for the design, then put the whole thing back in as a check at the end when i am not as worried about dragging the system down.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign yea so I used the sheet metal function to design the chassis, had never used it before. I used the scans to draw sketches from but had to always to the mesh of other wise it would bog down a lot. even though I am now done I'm going to try to make it un selectable just to see the difference.
too many :) when the scan was converted in ExScan the cap was set at 2.5mil. The good news is with the mesh hidden the performance is good, so you only need it displayed for a little(or it can be hacked down smaller). At the end of the series I will be doing a recap and quick tips and tricks on the process as well.
Thanks! So any car "model" where someone has created it off blueprints and images may look good, but if you are going to design parts to fit you really need to get a scan. You don't really see many 3d scans of cars for sale online so usually its doing it yourself or contacting someone that does it. There is a range of hobby scanners that will do the job and I will be testing one in the upcoming weeks that is soon to be on the market and comparing it to the scanner i used for this series. The difference in a few hundreds dollars vs an $8000 scanner.
I'm working on some arches for my car. The problem for me isn't the modelling but how to go about attaching them to the car. They will be made out of carbon so roughly 1mm thick. Maybe make a seperate lip that i can bond to the inside? Any ideas are welcome😁
yeah it comes down to what you want it to look like. If you don't want to see any fasteners or anything then a lip on the inside for 3m double sided tape. Thats how OEMS add on trim. If you go back to say an Escalade from the early 00s, that is how they stuck on all the flares and side skirt trim.... I think i did a video adding little recesses for hardware on the traditional style fender flare for the MR2 way back. For this one I will likely have a lip around it on the outside that is wide enough for double sided tape/rubber and likely some hardware.
Most places you have to pay for the models and they are usually modeled off images. If you are trying to design parts you really need to find a scan or have someone scan your car. SketchFab is a site where people sell models, but not scans.
Where are you located? I have a large CNC router that I'd like to get into mold making with, but I have some ideas for cutting molds I'd like to try. Something you would be interested in? I'm in Wyoming. Yes about as far as one can be from anywhere!
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign It's a Homag P110 router. Yes there is a post processor in Fusion 360 for it. It isn't a typical g-code control, so some adaptation is necessary. It's a long story, but there are a couple videos on my chanell showing hte progress we've made restoring it.
I have been a CSWE since 2009 or so and trained and used SWx professionally, but I stopped supporting it around 2019 for various reasons. That is not to say that I won't ever make content for it as I have considered it. I recently played around with Solid Edge but I really do not like it. I like Fusion, not because it is perfect, but because it has great value. A hobby user can get so much functionality for free and to step into a commercial license is around $400/year. In contrast with Solidworks you are $4000 + and then add on yearly fees if you want to stay current. I do have probably hundreds of hours of Solidworks content floating around the internet if there is something specific you are looking for. To do what I am doing here with Solidworks you would really need to invest in the Power Surfacing add-on for it through nPower. I have a 4hr series on their site doing a concept car body with this type of modeling. I don't know what their current pricing is but last i checked to get the subD modeling and to get the Mesh stuff was around $3000 plus a yearly fee.
You mean the scan? While techincally possible the direct conversion of a scan to a solid is very tricky and often impossible unless you have a dedicated mesh tool, something like GeoMagic. If you have a quad mesh(convert the scan to a quad in another program) you can directly convert it to a form but there are limits to that. An open form will be a surface, a closed form will be a solid when you convert it.
@@steeltree-fabricatingandcu3796 Sure you could, but the solid in blender would be tesselated (which you can also do in Fusion). If you are only going to 3D print it might be a valid option to allow for direct manipulation of the mesh. The trick with what we did here is that we are making a true NURBS surface vs a mesh.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I want to print the mounting parts of the panels I’m talking about c6 vette I’ll try to send you a quality scan soon I’ve been super busy I’m using the einstar Your scan info was very helpful You really do a great job on the instructions It’s greatly appreciated!!!
That is a great question. Even with a 1-off I am not sure the 3d print would survive. Honestly at this point I am not 100% sure which direction it will go until i see it on the car. The fender I do here likely won't be the final either because.... projects are never done. But in general going the direction of a fiberglass mold allows me to either make a mold for just the over-fender part, or possibly blend it into the OEM fender and mold an entire fender with mounting points. I am 75% sure it will stay an over-fender but nothing is ever set in stone. IF you used some really temp and uv stable materials and good glue and you were ok with the expansion/contraction with body filler of the print it could be a print on the car. I believe a Formula drift driver, maybe chris forsberg, had some videos where they did a 3d printed wide body.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign oh it will hold up great, you just have to use the right filament. I’m going to be using PCTG which has a good heat deflection point, ultra impact resistant, and fuel resistant. You can even go with a carbon polymer if you want it bullet proof haha. Soo many filament choices that will meet or exceed the fiberglass or OEM Polymer parts. Either way, enjoy the process.
Sorry Fred, if you think that you probably won't like many of my other videos. I have covered Forms on this channel in a lot of videos but still get the same questions so I approached this video has a new to forms. They aren't scripted its just me going through as if someone was sitting next to me learning. I have videos on the channel labeled "Quick Tips" that are a bit more pointed and the Forms Mastery series that are on a specific tool or workflow rather than a project.
Matt. You nailed it! 30 minutes is the perfect time frame to digest all this info for us newbies. I am addicted to this series ;) Greetings from Portugal!
Glad to hear it! I could ramble on for hours :)
The king of Cad !
Watching your vidros from France , love it !
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you for your content. It's fun to learn about the hobby of scanning & designing and apply it to the second hobby around the car. :D
My pleasure! the videos are hopefully a slow pace. I know so many people want that quick dopamine hit in 5min but this stuff takes time and practice ;)
I really appreciate all aspects of your videos, calm and concise explanation of the process. awesome work!!!
I appreciate that!
Great video to let you do your first steps...
Yeah this process is/can be very slow and lengthy so buckle up :)
I downloaded both Fusion 360 and your scan data and was able to follow along for the entire video, albeit with a few pauses here and there. You did a great job moving through this in a way that explains your modeling choices. Look forward to continuing with the other tutorials - bravo!
Great to hear! This is a long series just so you know :) it was the entire actual process, not a refined ideal thing. So basically what I go through while designing.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I understand. That's what 2x playback speed is for 😂 Honestly sometimes I really appreciate the long form stuff. Just scanned my car today with a friend and look forward to playing with my own model too
This is exactly what I was looking for! I bought a 3d scanner in hopes of making my own widebody for a couple of my cars in fusion 360!
And if your user name is up to day several of the widebody vids I have already are off an MR2 :)
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign it is! It was my first car back in 2000
Wow! Really good explanation of the process, thank you :) I do urgently need this for designing a rear difusor :D
Glad it was helpful! There are lots of vids on this channel for cannards, spoilers, and wide bodies. I didn't specifically do a rear diffuser vid but we added something similar in shape in the Porsche 911 video series.
Great channel and very helpful video, thank you.
You are welcome!
another awesome video in the series. I'm editing a video now of using scans to design a chassis for my van, and in the first few minutes, you mention that you can turn off scan select. O how I wish I Knew that before. ha ha.
Yeah neat tip from one of the subscribers. I showed the unselectable thing in a video and someone mentions it makes the meshes run a bit faster, and oddly enough in forms you can still snap to the mesh...
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign very handy, even one I had finished designing every time i turn the mesh on it slows right down, will definitely see if it helps to speed it up.
One thing i do from time to time is cut out a section of the mesh i need for the design, then put the whole thing back in as a check at the end when i am not as worried about dragging the system down.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign yea so I used the sheet metal function to design the chassis, had never used it before. I used the scans to draw sketches from but had to always to the mesh of other wise it would bog down a lot. even though I am now done I'm going to try to make it un selectable just to see the difference.
What is the face count of the scan ?
Fusuon 360 struggles with large face count.great video
too many :) when the scan was converted in ExScan the cap was set at 2.5mil. The good news is with the mesh hidden the performance is good, so you only need it displayed for a little(or it can be hacked down smaller). At the end of the series I will be doing a recap and quick tips and tricks on the process as well.
Love your videos. Trying to do the same with my f30 bmw. How would I get a 3d model to actual size? Is that even possible?
Thanks! So any car "model" where someone has created it off blueprints and images may look good, but if you are going to design parts to fit you really need to get a scan. You don't really see many 3d scans of cars for sale online so usually its doing it yourself or contacting someone that does it. There is a range of hobby scanners that will do the job and I will be testing one in the upcoming weeks that is soon to be on the market and comparing it to the scanner i used for this series. The difference in a few hundreds dollars vs an $8000 scanner.
I'm working on some arches for my car. The problem for me isn't the modelling but how to go about attaching them to the car. They will be made out of carbon so roughly 1mm thick. Maybe make a seperate lip that i can bond to the inside? Any ideas are welcome😁
yeah it comes down to what you want it to look like. If you don't want to see any fasteners or anything then a lip on the inside for 3m double sided tape. Thats how OEMS add on trim. If you go back to say an Escalade from the early 00s, that is how they stuck on all the flares and side skirt trim.... I think i did a video adding little recesses for hardware on the traditional style fender flare for the MR2 way back.
For this one I will likely have a lip around it on the outside that is wide enough for double sided tape/rubber and likely some hardware.
where can i find files of faithful cars in real measure 1:1? amazing job
Most places you have to pay for the models and they are usually modeled off images. If you are trying to design parts you really need to find a scan or have someone scan your car. SketchFab is a site where people sell models, but not scans.
Where are you located? I have a large CNC router that I'd like to get into mold making with, but I have some ideas for cutting molds I'd like to try. Something you would be interested in? I'm in Wyoming. Yes about as far as one can be from anywhere!
lol. im a bit far away from you in VA. What is the controller on your router? Does Fusion 360 CAM support it?
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign It's a Homag P110 router. Yes there is a post processor in Fusion 360 for it. It isn't a typical g-code control, so some adaptation is necessary. It's a long story, but there are a couple videos on my chanell showing hte progress we've made restoring it.
Your videos are amazing, do you think you will be able to potentially expand to solidworks and other software?
I have been a CSWE since 2009 or so and trained and used SWx professionally, but I stopped supporting it around 2019 for various reasons. That is not to say that I won't ever make content for it as I have considered it. I recently played around with Solid Edge but I really do not like it. I like Fusion, not because it is perfect, but because it has great value. A hobby user can get so much functionality for free and to step into a commercial license is around $400/year. In contrast with Solidworks you are $4000 + and then add on yearly fees if you want to stay current. I do have probably hundreds of hours of Solidworks content floating around the internet if there is something specific you are looking for.
To do what I am doing here with Solidworks you would really need to invest in the Power Surfacing add-on for it through nPower. I have a 4hr series on their site doing a concept car body with this type of modeling. I don't know what their current pricing is but last i checked to get the subD modeling and to get the Mesh stuff was around $3000 plus a yearly fee.
Is it possible to convert this to a solid body and modify it itself
Instead of forming on top of it
You mean the scan? While techincally possible the direct conversion of a scan to a solid is very tricky and often impossible unless you have a dedicated mesh tool, something like GeoMagic. If you have a quad mesh(convert the scan to a quad in another program) you can directly convert it to a form but there are limits to that. An open form will be a surface, a closed form will be a solid when you convert it.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign
What about blender
Have you tried that ?
I’m asking about the mesh stl that you uploaded into fusion
@@steeltree-fabricatingandcu3796 Sure you could, but the solid in blender would be tesselated (which you can also do in Fusion). If you are only going to 3D print it might be a valid option to allow for direct manipulation of the mesh. The trick with what we did here is that we are making a true NURBS surface vs a mesh.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign
I want to print the mounting parts of the panels
I’m talking about c6 vette
I’ll try to send you a quality scan soon
I’ve been super busy
I’m using the einstar
Your scan info was very helpful
You really do a great job on the instructions
It’s greatly appreciated!!!
ow boy i need a lot of help i want to make a widebody kit for my car
I have some other video series on car modeling and widebodies as well. Ask questions and you will get there!
Since it’s a one off why wouldn’t you just 3D print it and use it as is instead of bothering with fiberglass?
That is a great question. Even with a 1-off I am not sure the 3d print would survive. Honestly at this point I am not 100% sure which direction it will go until i see it on the car. The fender I do here likely won't be the final either because.... projects are never done. But in general going the direction of a fiberglass mold allows me to either make a mold for just the over-fender part, or possibly blend it into the OEM fender and mold an entire fender with mounting points. I am 75% sure it will stay an over-fender but nothing is ever set in stone.
IF you used some really temp and uv stable materials and good glue and you were ok with the expansion/contraction with body filler of the print it could be a print on the car. I believe a Formula drift driver, maybe chris forsberg, had some videos where they did a 3d printed wide body.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign oh it will hold up great, you just have to use the right filament. I’m going to be using PCTG which has a good heat deflection point, ultra impact resistant, and fuel resistant. You can even go with a carbon polymer if you want it bullet proof haha. Soo many filament choices that will meet or exceed the fiberglass or OEM Polymer parts.
Either way, enjoy the process.
@@Archangel3083 Great info Henry! that just might shift me to that direction :)
You waffle on to much!
Sorry Fred, if you think that you probably won't like many of my other videos. I have covered Forms on this channel in a lot of videos but still get the same questions so I approached this video has a new to forms. They aren't scripted its just me going through as if someone was sitting next to me learning.
I have videos on the channel labeled "Quick Tips" that are a bit more pointed and the Forms Mastery series that are on a specific tool or workflow rather than a project.