I shoot Fuji so it's a bit different because you choose individually what you want to control manually and what automatic. During the day (if nothing moves fast and there is light as usually is the case) I fix the iso to the minimum, aperture to manual and I change it according to what I want to photograph and then I use exposure compensation to brighten or darken the image. Exposure compensation with iso and aperture fixed will change the shutter from what the camera thought would be a good exposure
Most of the time I’m shooting in AP. If not AP it’s more than likely manual. I spent quite a bit of time learning the basics on YT before I ever bought a camera so I’ve never used full auto.
It's funny, I used to use everything but manual mode. Once I figured out all the advantages of manual mode, now I don't remember the advantages of shutter or appiture modes!! Lol I never use them. I now only use manual. Which, on occasion, I've messed up because I forget to change a setting when going from one type of light to another in a short time frame. I am in the market for a 10 stop ND filter. Any recommendations on a good brand? Headed to the north shore of Lake Superior in August. There are a ton of waterfalls up there. Although the lack of rain has dampened the amount of water in the rivers. So, getting great images might be tough.
Fantastic discussion of how cameras extend human vision and perception, and how shutter speed can be used creatively for storytelling! Your images were breathtakingly beautiful! I always enjoy your passion for creating beautiful images!
Another excellent tutorial, Mark, and not "boring" in the least! Remember there are still a lot of us newbies out here ... okay, maybe not a lot, but I'm at least one... who's still trying to wrap my brain around the "triangle" ...and I keep getting things backward. Your shutter-speed explanation helped simplify it for me: longer shutter speed = calm and peaceful; shorter shutter speed = powerful and dynamic. Hey, it works for my brain. Thank you again for all the work you put in these tutorials and helping the rest of us grow! Looking forward to putting this lesson into practice!
I love the way you describe the gut feeling you get when you describe the point that you're trying to convey. I'm an artist and I have to visualize the end product before I start. I have used Photography to help me with scale, the correct proportions, and how objects relate to one another. Now I am incorporating the photos into my designs. In the end it always comes down to a gut feeling when is the design final. color, tones, shape size etc
I've always preferred the faster shutter speed for water flow because I like to see/feel that sense of power in the water. I agree with your "blended" speed idea. I like the water to look as natural as possible for my eye. I'm not a huge lover of that ethereal look for my own images. It's interesting that if you take shutter speed to another arena like auto racing or action sports things work just the opposite. Fast shutter speed freezes the action but you don't get a sense of motion. Slow shutter speed of a race car or running mixed with a nice pan gives that sense of action/motion and speed. Good stuff here Mark. Have a great weekend!
I use manual mode most often. I love waterfalls too and find .5 seconds is usually the sweet spot for optimum motion blur. For ocean waves I prefer a fast shutter speed.
Thanks Mark..........I shoot mainly in manual, depending on what i am trying to achieve in my image. On Saturday i was with a group of friends shooting sunrise at a local beach. It was only a small swell, but i wanted to capture the explosive nature of the wave on the rockface, which i certainly achieved by using an intermediate shutter speed. Your video absolutely reinforced the advantages of thinking about your shot and what do you want for your end result.
Manual, with auto ISO (with an upper limit of 6400 set), but also also 3 custom settings on my Canon R7 to get to a baseline depending on if I'm trying to capture landscape, wildlife, or fast-moving wildlife.
Your hand mention in the beginning reminded me of a way to show aperture. I have less than 20/20 vision. But when I need to see something up close with my far sighted eyes I use my hand to make a small circle (like the OK sign but smaller) and look through there to read up close things in absence of my glasses. Demonstrates a small aperture and how it can increase focus. Give it a try! Thanks for the videos.
Honestly, I find it weird that some people see this as "nerding out", while shutter speed is an essential tool in your toolbox as a photographer. As an artist, which a creative photographer is, you should embrace every single option to broaden your horizon, be it creatively or technically.
I've been getting some good results the last couple of years using shutter speeds with moving water. My most used setting is under one second, most often .3 to .5 seems to hit the sweet spot. I have one from last summer of a really nice waterfall here in Colorado, taken at 1/4 second. The result shows the most interesting geometric arcs as the flow is deflected by jumbled rocks at the bottom of the falls. It's one of my all time favorite images.
Almost always manual mode as I’m learning and it helps to make a few mistakes and learn from them, it’s also helped me understand the exposure triangle better (adjust one setting and compensate with another) about to visit Iceland again in a few weeks time and will definitely have a play with shutter priority with waterfalls 👍
Nearly exclusively manual, with only one exception for Aperture Priority - day, day to night or night to day time lapse sequences. Night time lapses (milky way, etc) manual also.
Great video. 1 thing personally i think you should add is that shutter speed also can add feeling on motion when using panning motion. Those are cool too.
Thanks for. a fun video, Mark! How much motion blur one can achieve with moving water is also affected by the distance from the camera. For this reason I do take several different shutter speeds and blend the portions of, say a cascading stream, with whichever shutter speed works for that section. I hope I wrote that in. a way that makes sense.
Another great video Mark. I like the way you used the human eye explanation to show how it can focus, but along with the brain, it can not speed up or slow down what we see, but the camera can achieve this. Very interesting way to lead into the topic of shutter speed & how it can change an image & thereby a reaction to a particular photo, just by changing the shutter speed. Keep up the good work.
Mark, typically AP, but really thinking about playing more with Shutter Priority as it can be a completely different creative venue. Thanks for this content! As always, keep snapping…
A nice video, but the example with staring at your hand and moving it around is rather an analogy to autofocusing and background blur. However, if you stare at your hand while sitting at a desk in a relatively dark room, and then start switching a desk lamp on and off, the pupils in your eyes will be expanding and contracting (that is, "changing the f-stop"), so you may see how it changes the DOF.
Mark, in the beginning of this video you said the topic is boring. I'm going to tell you something I've never told anyone. I have always sort of, kind of I guess; understood story telling in photography. But I've never fully grasped what photographers were talking about until now. This boring topic as you call it gave me that AHA moment on the subject. So I don't believe this topic is boring at all. Thank you.
Love the video, I am more of a high shutter speed. To me I like seeing the power of water falls or even the waves crashing. To me seeing it that way make me imagine I am there more and I can hear the sounds of the waves or water fall.
All good points! I would likely experiment with shutter speeds further, but many modern cameras make you navigate a connvoluted menu system to access the settings.
I'm hoping to upgrade from the Rebel t6 to either an 80D or a 77D, because they have a wheel in the back that allows SS adjustment. The other dial controls aperture. Ideally I'd like a camera that has three wheels for the three, one for iso. I don't see the need for a wheel for over/under exposure.
I prefer manual because auto always does things I don't want. I often shoot in uneven light, something I've come to realize during a recent film class. And it's really hard to bring back highlights in the darkroom!
Full manual for landscape photography, shutter priority with auto ISO for wildlife (mostly bird) photography. Just a little nit to pick about humans vs cameras at manipulating time. You're certainly right that the eye can't change the speed of its sensor, but you're disregarding the role the brain plays in perception. It can adjust its perception and watch the general flow of water in a waterfall (i.e. slow shutter speed equivalent) or focus down hard and follow a drop of water or wave crest (fast shutter speed equivalent.) The eye sensor and the brain are a composite system in perception.
Manual all the way baby! How about a video on how to raise funds for trips. For day time shots I use faster shutter speeds and under expose. The exposure can always be brought up in post. I find I am less likely to blow out the sky that way. I would bracket but I have not figured out how to do that with my camera yet.
Help Mark!!! I just bought a new Sony Cyber iv. Ineed some backup batteries for the camera. What do you recommend?? How many do I need?? I know it varies, but roughly how many pics or videos per battery?? While I’m thinking about that, I just bought a 128GB card, is that enough ?? I’m going to Alaska in 11 days, so I deeply appreciate your help👍👍😊😊
The mode depends entirely on what I'm shooting. Landscape, full manual. Wildlife, manual with auto ISO. Panning on moving vehicles, shutter priority. Etc.
I shoot in M, with Auto ISO. I then adjust my Aperture and Shutter speed to what I think the shot needs. Then I look at the resultant ISO, and if acceptable, shoot. Any ISO under 1000 is acceptable to me, and will go higher in certain situations.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts ! Very interesting and you won my subscription ! I'm learning photography and it makes me addicted to it, as well drones addicted .. a kind of expensive hobby. Anyway, I always try to use Manual mode and with my drone, I also use Pro mode. thanks again
Hi Mark I am off to Bali in a couple of weeks - what’s the name/location of that waterfall which you mentioned was one of the best you have seen - thanks in anticipation of your reply
I was taught to use AP and I still mainly use that but..I use it not to control necessarily DOF, but to control SS! only after watching this video do I realise how silly this is..I’ll try to change my ways lol
I'm a real photographer. I was going through my digital photos and came across some of my early macros and I started analyzing what I know now and saying oh this is why this flower isn't in focus.... the f stop was 5.6 instead of f/11 or f/16 I just saw in reality how I could change the settings to get a better photograph.
You must use ND filters to get slow shutter speeds in sun. I had a variable ND filter that worked well (Lost in translation, AKA Stolen). Any recommendations?
Mark, looks like someone is sending replies under your name that commenters have won something from you. Bummer. I've seen this with another photographer's site. He now begins his his videos with a disclaimer.
I rarely use manual. If I'm shooting something where depth of field is important, like isolating the subject from the background, or the opposite, trying to get both foreground and background in focus, I use aperture priority. If I'm shooting moving water, I use shutter priority. For example, I find that 1/5 sec is a good starting point for waterfalls.
This may just be a limitation of my equipment, but adjusting the shutter speed *only* also adjusts the amount of how washed out my image is. I can adjust the f-stop or ISO value to counter this, but you’re saying that you’re only changing the shutter. Are you not doing anything else to compensate for the additional light coming into the camera? Or is this a difference between a lower-end DSLR and one from the higher-end?
You’ll always have to manually adjust your Aperture or ISO (or both) to compensate for the amount of light coming into the camera if you’re shooting in Manual mode (M). But if you shoot in Shutter Priority mode, for example, the camera will automatically adjust the Aperture and ISO to try to balance the overall exposure based on whatever Shutter Speed you chose to shoot with. I’m guessing Mark shoots in Manual mode, in which case he would be manually changing the Aperture and ISO to compensate. Many people also like to shoot in Manual mode but with ISO set to Auto, so that they can choose their Shutter Speed and Aperture manually, and the camera will adjust its ISO to balance the overall exposure. I shoot with a Sony a7RII in manual mode, so I also have to set all 3 parameters manually but I like to have that control. It’s really a matter of preference or convenience for the shooter. I hope that helps!
When shooting waterfalls I e always struggled with the correct shutter speed. Waterfalls are never the same speed and so is true with shutter speed.usually trial and error
I agree that the human eye cannot do what a shutter speed can do. However, from my experience using longer shutter speeds a lot for my projects I can learn to integrate in my brain how the end result can do. So I guess also here it’s up to practice 😊.
A great video with such an important piece of information: there is no "magic" shutter speed for moving water. It all depends on the speed and volume of the water, the focal length of the lens and, most of all, the effect that you want to achieve. Thanks once again, Mark.
I remember when I first started using a digital camera, I dived into the world of the hyper-long exposure. Just because you couldn't do it easily with film and mistakes were expensive! But now when I'm shooting moving water my starting point is how fast is the water moving and then what do I want to achieve with the image. I generally settle for something between 1/15th (raging torrent) to 2-3 seconds (gentle lapping tide). I very rarely bust out the 10-stop filter these days, but sometimes like to do it for fun, along with the thrill of actually having to calculate a correct exposure 🙂
Aperture. Used to work for a couple New papers looong ago, and shoot weddings. Capturing event images on the fly; aperture priority is the best setting for changing what’s in focus, emphasizing subjects, settings, etc in the photo on the fly.
I preferer shooting video with rushing water/ waterfalls. Best with sunny skies under deep forest, it's like magic with a polarizer. Now if I can only rid myself from those zebra strips. I'm a hybrid shooter. 🙂
Hi so you said that we can't change shutter speed in our eyes but technically our brains are programmed to do it automatically. Shutter speed isn't time but it is the time spent perceiving light. What i want you to do to simulate this idea is this. Go in the sunshine and move your hand left and right really fast. You will notice that you have a none blurry hand showing as an image on your eyes much similar to shooting video at let's say 1/500 where there is no motion blur to smoothen the experience. Now go indoors, turn off the lights but have just about enough light to see your hand properly, wait for your eyes to adjust to low light. Move your hans left to right fast and watch what happens! Tadaa, it's a motion that looks like what slower shutter speed video. More like 1/50 or so similar to what we see in cinema.
I might be the only one, waterfalls captured w slow shutter speed stress me out because it looks nothing like what you see in person. In person I love waterfalls.
First, great video. I always appreciate the way you break things down. Secondly, I understand how you guys need to play into the TH-cam logarithms and thumbnails need to serve a purpose to attract people, but most photography classes that cover exposure will explain the role of shutter speed, mine included. Other that that, nice job.
🌟QUICK QUESTION: What's your Most Used Camera Mode? Manual, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, or Full Auto?
For me, Aperture priority because I shoot on vintage lenses quite a bit
Nikon D800 , for the past 5 5 years
I shoot Fuji so it's a bit different because you choose individually what you want to control manually and what automatic. During the day (if nothing moves fast and there is light as usually is the case) I fix the iso to the minimum, aperture to manual and I change it according to what I want to photograph and then I use exposure compensation to brighten or darken the image. Exposure compensation with iso and aperture fixed will change the shutter from what the camera thought would be a good exposure
Most of the time I’m shooting in AP. If not AP it’s more than likely manual. I spent quite a bit of time learning the basics on YT before I ever bought a camera so I’ve never used full auto.
It's funny, I used to use everything but manual mode. Once I figured out all the advantages of manual mode, now I don't remember the advantages of shutter or appiture modes!! Lol I never use them. I now only use manual. Which, on occasion, I've messed up because I forget to change a setting when going from one type of light to another in a short time frame. I am in the market for a 10 stop ND filter. Any recommendations on a good brand? Headed to the north shore of Lake Superior in August. There are a ton of waterfalls up there. Although the lack of rain has dampened the amount of water in the rivers. So, getting great images might be tough.
You are the best photography channel on youtube.
Fantastic discussion of how cameras extend human vision and perception, and how shutter speed can be used creatively for storytelling! Your images were breathtakingly beautiful! I always enjoy your passion for creating beautiful images!
Another excellent tutorial, Mark, and not "boring" in the least! Remember there are still a lot of us newbies out here ... okay, maybe not a lot, but I'm at least one... who's still trying to wrap my brain around the "triangle" ...and I keep getting things backward. Your shutter-speed explanation helped simplify it for me: longer shutter speed = calm and peaceful; shorter shutter speed = powerful and dynamic. Hey, it works for my brain. Thank you again for all the work you put in these tutorials and helping the rest of us grow! Looking forward to putting this lesson into practice!
Great reminder, to always remember how a scene makes you feel, and try to capture that emotion! Thanks Mark.
I love the way you describe the gut feeling you get when you describe the point that you're trying to convey. I'm an artist and I have to visualize the end product before I start. I have used Photography to help me with scale, the correct proportions, and how objects relate to one another. Now I am incorporating the photos into my designs. In the end it always comes down to a gut feeling when is the design final. color, tones, shape size etc
I've always preferred the faster shutter speed for water flow because I like to see/feel that sense of power in the water. I agree with your "blended" speed idea. I like the water to look as natural as possible for my eye. I'm not a huge lover of that ethereal look for my own images. It's interesting that if you take shutter speed to another arena like auto racing or action sports things work just the opposite. Fast shutter speed freezes the action but you don't get a sense of motion. Slow shutter speed of a race car or running mixed with a nice pan gives that sense of action/motion and speed. Good stuff here Mark. Have a great weekend!
You are like art teacher I never had :D Great video man!
I use manual mode most often. I love waterfalls too and find .5 seconds is usually the sweet spot for optimum motion blur. For ocean waves I prefer a fast shutter speed.
Thanks!
Thanks Mark..........I shoot mainly in manual, depending on what i am trying to achieve in my image. On Saturday i was with a group of friends shooting sunrise at a local beach. It was only a small swell, but i wanted to capture the explosive nature of the wave on the rockface, which i certainly achieved by using an intermediate shutter speed. Your video absolutely reinforced the advantages of thinking about your shot and what do you want for your end result.
Manual, with auto ISO (with an upper limit of 6400 set), but also also 3 custom settings on my Canon R7 to get to a baseline depending on if I'm trying to capture landscape, wildlife, or fast-moving wildlife.
Your hand mention in the beginning reminded me of a way to show aperture. I have less than 20/20 vision. But when I need to see something up close with my far sighted eyes I use my hand to make a small circle (like the OK sign but smaller) and look through there to read up close things in absence of my glasses. Demonstrates a small aperture and how it can increase focus. Give it a try! Thanks for the videos.
Honestly, I find it weird that some people see this as "nerding out", while shutter speed is an essential tool in your toolbox as a photographer. As an artist, which a creative photographer is, you should embrace every single option to broaden your horizon, be it creatively or technically.
Brilliant video Mark. You have the ability to simplify the complex.
I've been getting some good results the last couple of years using shutter speeds with moving water. My most used setting is under one second, most often .3 to .5 seems to hit the sweet spot. I have one from last summer of a really nice waterfall here in Colorado, taken at 1/4 second. The result shows the most interesting geometric arcs as the flow is deflected by jumbled rocks at the bottom of the falls. It's one of my all time favorite images.
I AGREE ...LESS is more ..i like..1/10 to 1/3
Almost always manual mode as I’m learning and it helps to make a few mistakes and learn from them, it’s also helped me understand the exposure triangle better (adjust one setting and compensate with another) about to visit Iceland again in a few weeks time and will definitely have a play with shutter priority with waterfalls 👍
Mostly aperture priority but when it rains I like to switch to shutter speed to capture the rain in the photo. Interesting video.
Nearly exclusively manual, with only one exception for Aperture Priority - day, day to night or night to day time lapse sequences. Night time lapses (milky way, etc) manual also.
Great video. 1 thing personally i think you should add is that shutter speed also can add feeling on motion when using panning motion. Those are cool too.
Thanks for. a fun video, Mark!
How much motion blur one can achieve with moving water is also affected by the distance from the camera. For this reason I do take several different shutter speeds and blend the portions of, say a cascading stream, with whichever shutter speed works for that section. I hope I wrote that in. a way that makes sense.
Never thought of this and makes a lot of sense, I really appreciate your sharing
Thanks for this video! Definitely Sparked some new ideas to creatively use shutter speed! enjoyable video!
Another great video Mark. I like the way you used the human eye explanation to show how it can focus, but along with the brain, it can not speed up or slow down what we see, but the camera can achieve this. Very interesting way to lead into the topic of shutter speed & how it can change an image & thereby a reaction to a particular photo, just by changing the shutter speed. Keep up the good work.
Mark, typically AP, but really thinking about playing more with Shutter Priority as it can be a completely different creative venue. Thanks for this content! As always, keep snapping…
A nice video, but the example with staring at your hand and moving it around is rather an analogy to autofocusing and background blur. However, if you stare at your hand while sitting at a desk in a relatively dark room, and then start switching a desk lamp on and off, the pupils in your eyes will be expanding and contracting (that is, "changing the f-stop"), so you may see how it changes the DOF.
Great concept. You could say that a wide aperture would be calming and a narrow aperture the oposite.
Mark, in the beginning of this video you said the topic is boring. I'm going to tell you something I've never told anyone. I have always sort of, kind of I guess; understood story telling in photography. But I've never fully grasped what photographers were talking about until now. This boring topic as you call it gave me that AHA moment on the subject. So I don't believe this topic is boring at all. Thank you.
Beautiful shots Mark !!
Thanks Robert!
I will now call this the "MD" effect! Great tip!
I learned on film. Shutter and aperture were everything because you couldn't affect your ISO after you placed the film in.
Thanks for the great information on shutter speed, l definitely learned some new technique and plan to try them soon
Really useful video, look forward to trying a few variations in speed and look at the effect. Thanks.
I really like the Hawaii seascape. I think it is a great photograph.
Thanks Paul!
Thank you for the free Lightroom Calibration Tutorial--much appreciated.
Glad to do it!
Really enjoyed this video, including the exercise with the hand. Thank you Mark.
Thanks John!
very nice, but it would. be nice see what the shutter speed value was.
Love the video, I am more of a high shutter speed. To me I like seeing the power of water falls or even the waves crashing. To me seeing it that way make me imagine I am there more and I can hear the sounds of the waves or water fall.
All good points! I would likely experiment with shutter speeds further, but many modern cameras make you navigate a connvoluted menu system to access the settings.
I totally agree!
I'm hoping to upgrade from the Rebel t6 to either an 80D or a 77D, because they have a wheel in the back that allows SS adjustment. The other dial controls aperture. Ideally I'd like a camera that has three wheels for the three, one for iso. I don't see the need for a wheel for over/under exposure.
It depends most of the time I use it in aperture for most situations , unless I’m taking pictures of racing cars or waterfalls which is shutter speed
Really well observed and explained
I prefer manual because auto always does things I don't want. I often shoot in uneven light, something I've come to realize during a recent film class. And it's really hard to bring back highlights in the darkroom!
Full manual for landscape photography, shutter priority with auto ISO for wildlife (mostly bird) photography. Just a little nit to pick about humans vs cameras at manipulating time. You're certainly right that the eye can't change the speed of its sensor, but you're disregarding the role the brain plays in perception. It can adjust its perception and watch the general flow of water in a waterfall (i.e. slow shutter speed equivalent) or focus down hard and follow a drop of water or wave crest (fast shutter speed equivalent.) The eye sensor and the brain are a composite system in perception.
Thanks! I use full Manual. Will use Auto ISO for fast moving things like birds in flight.
Nice placement of the Flux Capacitor.
😁
Mostly aperture priority then manual mode are my most used depending on what I am shooting.
I used my camera invmanual mode. love playing with shutter speed to photograph water falls. I really enjoy the way you presented it ! Very inspiring!
Thanks so much!
I just shot an architecture photo and just Manuel. Thanks for great video.
Excellent points. Even more true at the far extremes where the eye/mind cannot go - think a bullet hitting an egg or astrophotography.
Thanks so much!
Looks like you were in my backyard Mark! Was that the south falls at Silver Creek Falls? Thanks for another great video.
Manual all the way baby! How about a video on how to raise funds for trips. For day time shots I use faster shutter speeds and under expose. The exposure can always be brought up in post. I find I am less likely to blow out the sky that way. I would bracket but I have not figured out how to do that with my camera yet.
Help Mark!!! I just bought a new Sony Cyber iv.
Ineed some backup batteries for the camera.
What do you recommend??
How many do I need??
I know it varies, but roughly how many pics or videos per battery??
While I’m thinking about that, I just bought a 128GB card, is that enough ??
I’m going to Alaska in 11 days, so I deeply appreciate your help👍👍😊😊
The mode depends entirely on what I'm shooting. Landscape, full manual. Wildlife, manual with auto ISO. Panning on moving vehicles, shutter priority. Etc.
Great video Mark👍
I shoot in M, with Auto ISO. I then adjust my Aperture and Shutter speed to what I think the shot needs. Then I look at the resultant ISO, and if acceptable, shoot. Any ISO under 1000 is acceptable to me, and will go higher in certain situations.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts ! Very interesting and you won my subscription ! I'm learning photography and it makes me addicted to it, as well drones addicted .. a kind of expensive hobby. Anyway, I always try to use Manual mode and with my drone, I also use Pro mode. thanks again
What about stacking and clipping portions? Some long exposure, some short in the same shot?
Really informative video, thank you! And hey Mark, I also noticed you have a Travelers Notebook but where's your fountain pen? 😉 Blessings to you!
I always do a few at different speeds as hate having to go back and do it again
Mostly Manual. Interesting insights thank you.
Hi Mark I am off to Bali in a couple of weeks - what’s the name/location of that waterfall which you mentioned was one of the best you have seen - thanks in anticipation of your reply
I always appreciate information so thanks.
Happy to do it!
I was taught to use AP and I still mainly use that but..I use it not to control necessarily DOF, but to control SS! only after watching this video do I realise how silly this is..I’ll try to change my ways lol
How do you find those places to photograph?
I always see the mac track pad on your desk. I am just courteous if it can be used with a Apple Pencil?
I'm not 100% sure honestly
I'm a real photographer. I was going through my digital photos and came across some of my early macros and I started analyzing what I know now and saying oh this is why this flower isn't in focus.... the f stop was 5.6 instead of
f/11 or f/16 I just saw in reality how I could change the settings to get a better photograph.
You must use ND filters to get slow shutter speeds in sun. I had a variable ND filter that worked well (Lost in translation, AKA Stolen). Any recommendations?
Manual with autp iso. Still learning. Seems as if it is a lifelong process.
Mark, looks like someone is sending replies under your name that commenters have won something from you. Bummer. I've seen this with another photographer's site. He now begins his his videos with a disclaimer.
Lately I’ve been using different art lenses and therefore I’ve been strictly in full Manual mode. Otherwise my preference e is aperture priority.
Aperture priority. We need to Silver falls, I miss it. Great video
Thanks James!
I am still somewhat new as a photographer. What is the advantage of aperture priority and shutter priority versus just totally manual? Thanks.
I rarely use manual. If I'm shooting something where depth of field is important, like isolating the subject from the background, or the opposite, trying to get both foreground and background in focus, I use aperture priority. If I'm shooting moving water, I use shutter priority. For example, I find that 1/5 sec is a good starting point for waterfalls.
@@sarco64 great tips. I’ll try that
General landscape stuff, aperture priority works most of the time. Fast action, shutter priority is normally the ticket.
Makes me want go to the beach.
This may just be a limitation of my equipment, but adjusting the shutter speed *only* also adjusts the amount of how washed out my image is. I can adjust the f-stop or ISO value to counter this, but you’re saying that you’re only changing the shutter. Are you not doing anything else to compensate for the additional light coming into the camera? Or is this a difference between a lower-end DSLR and one from the higher-end?
You’ll always have to manually adjust your Aperture or ISO (or both) to compensate for the amount of light coming into the camera if you’re shooting in Manual mode (M). But if you shoot in Shutter Priority mode, for example, the camera will automatically adjust the Aperture and ISO to try to balance the overall exposure based on whatever Shutter Speed you chose to shoot with. I’m guessing Mark shoots in Manual mode, in which case he would be manually changing the Aperture and ISO to compensate. Many people also like to shoot in Manual mode but with ISO set to Auto, so that they can choose their Shutter Speed and Aperture manually, and the camera will adjust its ISO to balance the overall exposure. I shoot with a Sony a7RII in manual mode, so I also have to set all 3 parameters manually but I like to have that control. It’s really a matter of preference or convenience for the shooter. I hope that helps!
Good tips!
I've found with more experience comes more appreciation, familiarity and usage of manual mode.
Very true!
Love me some Dry Falls, live an hour or so away!
Manual for 95 percent of captures and a mix of aperture and shutter for the remainder and that depends on the subject and the current conditions.
I always use manual😊
When shooting waterfalls I e always struggled with the correct shutter speed. Waterfalls are never the same speed and so is true with shutter speed.usually trial and error
I agree that the human eye cannot do what a shutter speed can do. However, from my experience using longer shutter speeds a lot for my projects I can learn to integrate in my brain how the end result can do. So I guess also here it’s up to practice 😊.
Good point!
brain post processing 😄😄
I mostly use manual mode but auto iso.
Manual with auto ISO
A great video with such an important piece of information: there is no "magic" shutter speed for moving water. It all depends on the speed and volume of the water, the focal length of the lens and, most of all, the effect that you want to achieve. Thanks once again, Mark.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! :)
You're welcome!
I have forced myself to shoot manual all the time. This is my first year of landscape photography.
Aperture Priority
For me…landscape - aperture / sports - shutter / Astro - manual / Bigfoot sightings - full auto
Always manual for landscape
Manual with auto ISO,Ishoot alot of action lately
I remember when I first started using a digital camera, I dived into the world of the hyper-long exposure. Just because you couldn't do it easily with film and mistakes were expensive!
But now when I'm shooting moving water my starting point is how fast is the water moving and then what do I want to achieve with the image. I generally settle for something between 1/15th (raging torrent) to 2-3 seconds (gentle lapping tide).
I very rarely bust out the 10-stop filter these days, but sometimes like to do it for fun, along with the thrill of actually having to calculate a correct exposure 🙂
5:59 Actually they made me a bit nervous. They looked so out-of-this-earthly.
Aperture. Used to work for a couple New papers looong ago, and shoot weddings. Capturing event images on the fly; aperture priority is the best setting for changing what’s in focus, emphasizing subjects, settings, etc in the photo on the fly.
Mark you are pretty brave walking into that water with your whole pack on. Please don't ever slip., That would be tragic. :)
I preferer shooting video with rushing water/ waterfalls. Best with sunny skies under deep forest, it's like magic with a polarizer. Now if I can only rid myself from those zebra strips. I'm a hybrid shooter. 🙂
Hi so you said that we can't change shutter speed in our eyes but technically our brains are programmed to do it automatically. Shutter speed isn't time but it is the time spent perceiving light.
What i want you to do to simulate this idea is this.
Go in the sunshine and move your hand left and right really fast. You will notice that you have a none blurry hand showing as an image on your eyes much similar to shooting video at let's say 1/500 where there is no motion blur to smoothen the experience. Now go indoors, turn off the lights but have just about enough light to see your hand properly, wait for your eyes to adjust to low light. Move your hans left to right fast and watch what happens! Tadaa, it's a motion that looks like what slower shutter speed video. More like 1/50 or so similar to what we see in cinema.
I might be the only one, waterfalls captured w slow shutter speed stress me out because it looks nothing like what you see in person. In person I love waterfalls.
I want that mountain goat shirt.
👍
First, great video. I always appreciate the way you break things down. Secondly, I understand how you guys need to play into the TH-cam logarithms and thumbnails need to serve a purpose to attract people, but most photography classes that cover exposure will explain the role of shutter speed, mine included. Other that that, nice job.
Elite athletes must be able to slow down time. How else could they hit a 100MPH fastball, etc?
Darn, now I gotta lug my tripod out more often?
Thank you for acknowledging my question but you didn’t answer it.