I have the same cleaner. I put scalding hot water in the cleaner and put my parts in the bag as well. I run the heater just to keep the water hot so as not to tax it as much. I run it for 30 minutes, change the solution in the bag and run it again for at least another 30 if not an hour. Comes out spotless
I found out just soaking it for a few hours with simple green hd with hot water will clean it just as well. I just fill this bucket up and let it soak. Sometimes come back barely having to scrub.
When I received my Sparrow, I put 30 various manufacture rounds through it to test reliability. Took it apart and was shocked at the gunk left from just 30 rounds. Cleaned it up, used the JD weld anti spatter spray treatment that was on the silencerco website under the blog section I believe and I am going to run a brick of the dirtiest ammo I have and then do the Ultrasonic/Simply Green treatment. I will let you know how it turns out. P.S. We both have the same ultrasonic cleaner, only mine has the brand name of Vivor. They are both manufactured by the same company just sold under different brand names.
Wipe-out bore foam works the best without damagig anything. Put parts in old mayo jar. Spray with foam and wait 1-2hrs depending on dirt level. Cleans awesome!
Try the Breakthrough Clean Technology Suppressor Cleaner kit. No ultrasonic required and it WORKS! It's also is safe on all metals, including aluminum.
I use CLR and the parts in a ziplock sandwich bag. Then I drop that bag into the sonic hot water bath for 10 minutes. My sonic cleaner is like yours. I used 60 degrees centigrade. Cleans up well.
I have a 6 liter ultradonic cleaner. I find i get better results pouring the liquid straight into the cleaner than in plastic ziploc bags. Its also very easy to clean, matter of fact none of the dirt sticks to the machine i dump the water out and wipe it do2n
I like your gear, I've heard of those UltraSonic Cleaners but not too familiar with them. BTW, that was a beautiful bass you caught in that last video.
It's painful to scrub without the ultrasonic, but I think just dipping the solution on the parts overnight will loosen it up too. Ultrasonic just accelerate that process.
@@armedaf6233I will definitely need one if i get a can. I'm considering applying for a tax stamp for a can be used on a platform for 223 & .22LR. BTW, Wal-Mart had abunch of Federal Automatch yesterday, that stuff and CCI standard velocity is super quiet from my 10/22 without a can. I shoot alot of .22 because of the insane prices.
I have a pretty cheap all aluminum rimfire can but it's a monocore and I clean it right at the range while it's still hot just need some good work gloves takes about ten minutes and it works great.
I've found in cleaning brass of various calibers that much energy is lost when the items are in a separate bag or cup with their own solvent. It seems like thin, hard plastic disposable cups transmit good energy. Also, at least for my small cleaner, if you watch the cavitation energy before the solution gets too murky, you may find that adjusting the levels of the fluids (inside or outside) can optimize the agitation. Just as in electronics, I think this is optimizing the load (your items and fluid) to the source (your reservoir and transducer). Anyway, try tuning to see if it helps at all.
Yea, those are legal suppressor. I also saw people going the fuel filter route which I don't recommend. AFT is trapping people big time on fuel filter.
For any chemists out there, what is the bonding agent that's holding the carbon to the walls of the suppressor? Is this some atomic level thing or just some burnt, hardened media?
Not a chemist, but oils can polymerize when heated to or beyond their smoke point. This means the oil is basically turning into a plastic almost the same way you would season a cast iron or carbon steel skillet. This plastic, depending on temperature and type of oil and other variables can result in a gummy, sticky residue. That, combined with the carbon makes for a very tough to clean situation.
It’s not just carbon. Since this is a rimfire suppressors, a lot of that gunk is actually lead from the ammo that was vaporized, condensed, and stuck onto the monocore baffle.
i use the same solution when cleaning carbs with slight vinigar and a splash of peroxide in bags after rinse off. blow dry. i use a temp gun to make sure dont exceed 110 when useing simple green.
What would you recommend for a good general purpose cleaner to use that is 100% safe on aluminum also? Fixing up/cleaning an 88 Yamaha ATV and picked up an ultrasonic cleaner a few weeks ago. So far I've only used Evaporust in it on nuts and bolts which worked great (although now they will rust again super fast unless I set up a DIY zinc plating station lol) There's a few aluminum parts I'd like to throw in there now but want to make sure they aren't going to discolor or get dull or anything like that. Thanks
The sonic machine you're using is also very weak and if I remember correctly, uses a single transducer. A more powerful machine would help as well as higher temp water.
I have the same cleaner. I put scalding hot water in the cleaner and put my parts in the bag as well. I run the heater just to keep the water hot so as not to tax it as much. I run it for 30 minutes, change the solution in the bag and run it again for at least another 30 if not an hour. Comes out spotless
Yea, mine was caked up pretty bad so I need strong solution.
I found out just soaking it for a few hours with simple green hd with hot water will clean it just as well. I just fill this bucket up and let it soak. Sometimes come back barely having to scrub.
When I received my Sparrow, I put 30 various manufacture rounds through it to test reliability. Took it apart and was shocked at the gunk left from just 30 rounds. Cleaned it up, used the JD weld anti spatter spray treatment that was on the silencerco website under the blog section I believe and I am going to run a brick of the dirtiest ammo I have and then do the Ultrasonic/Simply Green treatment. I will let you know how it turns out. P.S. We both have the same ultrasonic cleaner, only mine has the brand name of Vivor. They are both manufactured by the same company just sold under different brand names.
Yea, I wish they have a slick stainless steel finish instead of coating it to make it worst.
Wipe-out bore foam works the best without damagig anything. Put parts in old mayo jar. Spray with foam and wait 1-2hrs depending on dirt level. Cleans awesome!
I'm thinking use the heater (that's what is for) and lengthen the time of the cleaning to 30-40 minutes and see what happens.
Try the Breakthrough Clean Technology Suppressor Cleaner kit. No ultrasonic required and it WORKS! It's also is safe on all metals, including aluminum.
Try running the heavily carboned parts a few more times in the ultrasonic cleaner. They're great for hard carbon deposits. Just takes a few cycles.
I use CLR and the parts in a ziplock sandwich bag. Then I drop that bag into the sonic hot water bath for 10 minutes. My sonic cleaner is like yours. I used 60 degrees centigrade. Cleans up well.
I have a 6 liter ultradonic cleaner. I find i get better results pouring the liquid straight into the cleaner than in plastic ziploc bags. Its also very easy to clean, matter of fact none of the dirt sticks to the machine i dump the water out and wipe it do2n
Same I've got the 6L and I just drain and then hit it with an Isopropyl wipe down
I like your gear, I've heard of those UltraSonic Cleaners but not too familiar with them. BTW, that was a beautiful bass you caught in that last video.
It's painful to scrub without the ultrasonic, but I think just dipping the solution on the parts overnight will loosen it up too. Ultrasonic just accelerate that process.
@@armedaf6233I will definitely need one if i get a can. I'm considering applying for a tax stamp for a can be used on a platform for 223 & .22LR. BTW, Wal-Mart had abunch of Federal Automatch yesterday, that stuff and CCI standard velocity is super quiet from my 10/22 without a can. I shoot alot of .22 because of the insane prices.
OH. I mix my solution 50/50
Why not use solvent?
I have a pretty cheap all aluminum rimfire can but it's a monocore and I clean it right at the range while it's still hot just need some good work gloves takes about ten minutes and it works great.
I've found in cleaning brass of various calibers that much energy is lost when the items are in a separate bag or cup with their own solvent. It seems like thin, hard plastic disposable cups transmit good energy. Also, at least for my small cleaner, if you watch the cavitation energy before the solution gets too murky, you may find that adjusting the levels of the fluids (inside or outside) can optimize the agitation. Just as in electronics, I think this is optimizing the load (your items and fluid) to the source (your reservoir and transducer). Anyway, try tuning to see if it helps at all.
I want a suppressor, but they take a stamp don’t they? They are also like 800$.
Yea, those are legal suppressor. I also saw people going the fuel filter route which I don't recommend. AFT is trapping people big time on fuel filter.
For any chemists out there, what is the bonding agent that's holding the carbon to the walls of the suppressor? Is this some atomic level thing or just some burnt, hardened media?
Not a chemist, but oils can polymerize when heated to or beyond their smoke point. This means the oil is basically turning into a plastic almost the same way you would season a cast iron or carbon steel skillet. This plastic, depending on temperature and type of oil and other variables can result in a gummy, sticky residue. That, combined with the carbon makes for a very tough to clean situation.
It’s not just carbon. Since this is a rimfire suppressors, a lot of that gunk is actually lead from the ammo that was vaporized, condensed, and stuck onto the monocore baffle.
If used properly you should not have any problems with the heater built into your ultrasonic cleaner. Had mine for years with zero issues.
i use the same solution when cleaning carbs with slight vinigar and a splash of peroxide in bags after rinse off. blow dry. i use a temp gun to make sure dont exceed 110 when useing simple green.
What would you recommend for a good general purpose cleaner to use that is 100% safe on aluminum also? Fixing up/cleaning an 88 Yamaha ATV and picked up an ultrasonic cleaner a few weeks ago. So far I've only used Evaporust in it on nuts and bolts which worked great (although now they will rust again super fast unless I set up a DIY zinc plating station lol) There's a few aluminum parts I'd like to throw in there now but want to make sure they aren't going to discolor or get dull or anything like that. Thanks
@@jonathangaliano2617 Use either the Purple Simple Green as seen in this video or the Aircraft Grade Simple Green
The sonic machine you're using is also very weak and if I remember correctly, uses a single transducer. A more powerful machine would help as well as higher temp water.
Remove your basket and it may fit.
Only assassins need suppressors. 😂
Better for your hearing. Only poors say stuff like this.
@@duhman288 Maybe get your sarcasm meter calibrated? I have five of ‘em.
Have 2 and never assinated anyone.
Blah,blah,boring. Every detail repetitive who cares!!!!!