Thank you!!! Ill definitely be reffering to this video once the printing is done, great video. Very clear and precise instructions, cant wait for future developments 💯
I love your designs! Building the Supersprint was the most fun I had since I started 3D printing. Your designs are just AWESOME! And even your instructions are amazing! THX for your dedication! I'm still hoping M-Jet 30 compattible TPU Warrior...
Thank you. Currently I have no time for the M-Jet 30 TPU Warrior version, sorry:( too many projects with priority. Right now the M-Jet 35 is on black friday sale for 28 USD, maybe you'd find it attractive www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
@@geekmidget Yeah:) this was a lot of work, the longest video I have ever worked on. It's great to have this out now! I know you commented about your further progress and I did not react - I just don't always have the energy after working on my stuff;)
for the bearings in the pump are you going for higher end specd or chinese stainless. I can find the smaller bearing with ceramic balls, but not the 5x19x6 one
@@zviper I am using stainless bearings which I buy from european shops, I am not sure where they are manufactured originally. For example here is a 5x19x6 www.123bearing.eu/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/s635-zz-zen Unfortunately I don't know suppliers in different parts of the world
Thanks for the analysis! Just a quick off-topic question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Is your next video going to be a continuation of the video about the pump pressure and intake velocity? Have you made updates since that video to the pumps and why have you deleted it?
Yes, you are right, I hid the video. After I released it, I had some more thought around it. Right now the M-Jet Development is my only side job while I am studying. I really like it and I would like to continue. In order to keep my position on the market and my income, I can no longer give away all of my knowledge and methods. Anyone who comes to design jet pumps after me can copy what I do without having to spend those 5 years to figure it out as I did. As you can see from my videos, I like to share stuff. However, by doing it, at this point I am just putting my job in danger. Therefore I need to find a balance between sharing everything and keeping some tricks for myself. I will continue to share the results of my work; probably no longer everything which led to them. Thanks for understanding.
Hello 👍This boat is really good work. I would be interested in doing it and I see that the files are free too!!! Do we need to add the motor additionally?
By "motor", do you mean the jet pump? The files for the Ragnarok hull are free: www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/ragnarok-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat The files for the jet pumps need to be purchased. Currently, you can choose between the M-Jet 35 (more powerful) and M-Jet 30 (cheaper). M-Jet 35: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats M-Jet 30: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats
Awesome! I’m working on getting my ragnarok trimmed out, it would always spin out in turns but hoping the larger fins will make it perfect! What size fins do you use?
In this video, I used Mega 25 turn fins. I managed to make the hull stable and stop any hopping, however I am still not fully happy with the cornering, it spins out more than I'd like. Tuning the handling takes time and requires testing many different combinations of all parts. This is my full setup. Version: Ragnarok V11 with flood chamber Pump: M-Jet 35 Motor: 4092 1400KV ESC: Castle Creations Hydra X 8S Battery: CNHL G+ 6S 4000mAh RTR Weight: 2945 g CG position: 165 mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull) Nozzle: +2.5 Ride plate: Ride plate by Ryan Frair Turn fins: Mega 25 Trim tabs: None Intake grate: Loading grate default
@@mjetdevelopment regarding cornering: have you tried making a progressive trim for the nozzle with +2.5 at the center and +10 at the very edges? I am thinking about traditional surfboards, when surfers want to turn on a dime they move all their body weight to the stern (where fins are) and push hard (I used to practice windsurf a while ago, same principle)
Nice video!! One question about the pump in the video. The brass tube coming out of the pump on the outside is different from my m35. Is that an update?
@@TheMrmanning71 Good point! The brass tube coming out of the second stage, as well as the pipe in Hull rear which connects to it, is just my custom modification for doing some measurements. The public version does not need it and does not have it, so no worries:)
@@mjetdevelopment I did print a abs and asa hull. Both turned out great with no warping. I did let the chamber heat soak for 40 minutes before each print and let cool to room temp. Do you have any links for the esc and motor you used in yours? it looks like a castle creations marine esc, i better put some couple rc's up for sale to fund that good lord they have gotten expensive. I bought my the first 2200kv mamba max way back when it was new and the thing was a savage setup in my losi buggy road car.
@@zviper Here are the links for what I used: www.castlecreations.com/en/hydra-x-8s-33-6v-esc-8a-peak-bec-010-0175-00 www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-40-mm/4092/BL-Motor-TFL--4092-1400KV.html The Castle is expensive indeed. I am absolutely amazed by both its performance and its advanced features, but to get a boat running there are cheaper options, for example Hobbywing 180A or Spektrum Smart Marine 160A (keep in mind the motor I used in the video pulls over 170A on full throttle so it is always up to you if you trust the ESC can handle it).
3:08 Selecting Electronics
6:16 Printing Orientation, Warping Compensation
8:53 Flotation
10:08 Pump Installation
13:08 Front Joint
15:22 Rear Joint
17:20 Bumper
17:39 Carbon Fiber Wrap (optional)
20:48 Spray Paint
21:47 Hull Details
23:14 Rollcage, Pilots, Engine
28:41 Installing Electronics
31:35 Fly
Thank you!!! Ill definitely be reffering to this video once the printing is done, great video. Very clear and precise instructions, cant wait for future developments 💯
I love your designs!
Building the Supersprint was the most fun I had since I started 3D printing.
Your designs are just AWESOME!
And even your instructions are amazing!
THX for your dedication!
I'm still hoping M-Jet 30 compattible TPU Warrior...
Thank you. Currently I have no time for the M-Jet 30 TPU Warrior version, sorry:( too many projects with priority.
Right now the M-Jet 35 is on black friday sale for 28 USD, maybe you'd find it attractive
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
Amazing video.
🤗
Nice video!!!!
So that's what was keeping you busy 😁
@@geekmidget Yeah:) this was a lot of work, the longest video I have ever worked on. It's great to have this out now!
I know you commented about your further progress and I did not react - I just don't always have the energy after working on my stuff;)
for the bearings in the pump are you going for higher end specd or chinese stainless. I can find the smaller bearing with ceramic balls, but not the 5x19x6 one
@@zviper I am using stainless bearings which I buy from european shops, I am not sure where they are manufactured originally.
For example here is a 5x19x6
www.123bearing.eu/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/s635-zz-zen
Unfortunately I don't know suppliers in different parts of the world
Thanks for the analysis! Just a quick off-topic question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Wrong chat sir:)
The "seed phrase" is your back up password. Combined with your wallet "adress" it is your account.
Do not share your seed phrase with anyone ever ok ?
Is your next video going to be a continuation of the video about the pump pressure and intake velocity? Have you made updates since that video to the pumps and why have you deleted it?
Yes, you are right, I hid the video.
After I released it, I had some more thought around it. Right now the M-Jet Development is my only side job while I am studying. I really like it and I would like to continue. In order to keep my position on the market and my income, I can no longer give away all of my knowledge and methods. Anyone who comes to design jet pumps after me can copy what I do without having to spend those 5 years to figure it out as I did.
As you can see from my videos, I like to share stuff. However, by doing it, at this point I am just putting my job in danger. Therefore I need to find a balance between sharing everything and keeping some tricks for myself. I will continue to share the results of my work; probably no longer everything which led to them.
Thanks for understanding.
Oh man this is a great build!
Would a 200gsm carbon be a dealbreaker? I can't find any 160...
200g will be fine!
Hello 👍This boat is really good work. I would be interested in doing it and I see that the files are free too!!! Do we need to add the motor additionally?
By "motor", do you mean the jet pump?
The files for the Ragnarok hull are free: www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/ragnarok-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat
The files for the jet pumps need to be purchased. Currently, you can choose between the M-Jet 35 (more powerful) and M-Jet 30 (cheaper).
M-Jet 35: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-35-3d-printable-jet-pump-for-rc-boats
M-Jet 30: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-3d-printable-jet-drive-for-rc-boats
Awesome! I’m working on getting my ragnarok trimmed out, it would always spin out in turns but hoping the larger fins will make it perfect! What size fins do you use?
In this video, I used Mega 25 turn fins. I managed to make the hull stable and stop any hopping, however I am still not fully happy with the cornering, it spins out more than I'd like. Tuning the handling takes time and requires testing many different combinations of all parts.
This is my full setup.
Version: Ragnarok V11 with flood chamber
Pump: M-Jet 35
Motor: 4092 1400KV
ESC: Castle Creations Hydra X 8S
Battery: CNHL G+ 6S 4000mAh RTR
Weight: 2945 g
CG position: 165 mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull)
Nozzle: +2.5
Ride plate: Ride plate by Ryan Frair
Turn fins: Mega 25
Trim tabs: None
Intake grate: Loading grate default
@@mjetdevelopment regarding cornering: have you tried making a progressive trim for the nozzle with +2.5 at the center and +10 at the very edges? I am thinking about traditional surfboards, when surfers want to turn on a dime they move all their body weight to the stern (where fins are) and push hard (I used to practice windsurf a while ago, same principle)
@@geekmidget I haven't. It is a very good idea and definitely worth trying.
Nice video!! One question about the pump in the video. The brass tube coming out of the pump on the outside is different from my m35. Is that an update?
@@TheMrmanning71 Good point! The brass tube coming out of the second stage, as well as the pipe in Hull rear which connects to it, is just my custom modification for doing some measurements. The public version does not need it and does not have it, so no worries:)
@@mjetdevelopment so that's a data-logging-ready Ragnarok 😁
Are you gonna install upgrades on the Ragnarok?
Which upgrades do you mean?
@ upgrades like the super sprit
@@herosjourney2776 Which specific upgrades? I don't understand what do you mean by upgrades
Like the super charger upgrade
@@herosjourney2776 I see you mean the Supersprint's V8 engine. The Ragnarok will not get a V8 engine. It already has the rotary engine which will stay
how come Abs isn't listed for printing the hull but Asa is similar?
@@zviper You can use ABS too, you might get a bit more warping tho, that's why ASA is preferred
@@mjetdevelopment I have a Voron it should be able to do it
@@mjetdevelopment I did print a abs and asa hull. Both turned out great with no warping. I did let the chamber heat soak for 40 minutes before each print and let cool to room temp. Do you have any links for the esc and motor you used in yours? it looks like a castle creations marine esc, i better put some couple rc's up for sale to fund that good lord they have gotten expensive. I bought my the first 2200kv mamba max way back when it was new and the thing was a savage setup in my losi buggy road car.
@@zviper
Here are the links for what I used:
www.castlecreations.com/en/hydra-x-8s-33-6v-esc-8a-peak-bec-010-0175-00
www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-40-mm/4092/BL-Motor-TFL--4092-1400KV.html
The Castle is expensive indeed. I am absolutely amazed by both its performance and its advanced features, but to get a boat running there are cheaper options, for example Hobbywing 180A or Spektrum Smart Marine 160A (keep in mind the motor I used in the video pulls over 170A on full throttle so it is always up to you if you trust the ESC can handle it).
intersting project. it will be awesome if you can use our engine for your boat project. if interested, please contact us
@@Stirlingkit Interesting! How is the maximum power output (W) your engines can produce?